Cornish Rattler
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Posts posted by Cornish Rattler
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Yeah I think I will keep mine as its a complete county one with front and rear sections and just carpet the inside of the front section where the sunroof would be
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Hi guys
Does anyone know if all roof linings have the cut outs for the alpine Windows, I have just bought a new to me flat roof to replace my ribbed roof and thought with my 90 being a county I would need a rear van roof lining but all the ones I have seen have the cut out in so if that is the case I will keep mine and fit it to the new roof ?
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The plan is to eventually fit panaramic side windows and think having a flat roof will make it look better.
Will post pics tomorrow of the roof we picked up last night
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He's 23 he has helped me every now and then since buying the 90 he hates disco's and loves both defender's and series which I have had over the years but the 2a is a joint effort so we should be spending a lot of time together
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Hi guys
I won a later flat type roof to replace the older ribbed type roof last night so me and son are going picking it up tonight and once the s11a is stripped we will get the roof in for painting then fit it.
has anyone else done this
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Was hoping to start work on it today but the 90 had a battery drain problem but its sorted now and being as i won a new roof for the 90 on ebay yesterday we are going to collect it tonight and fit it at a later date and I work Sundays and off Mondays so I will make a start on it then
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It's relatively easy: the bracketry to put an alternatlor like a Lucas 17ACR on a 2.25 petrol engine is a matter of off-the-shelf LR components.
Wiring: again dead easy - you run two thick brown wires from the 2 big spade-tags on the alternator back down to the battery +ve terminal, and take the warning-light wire off the old control-box and connect it to the little spade-tag on the alt.
This routes the alternator's output direct to the battery, bypassing the instrument-cluster ammeter which is not rated to handle the sorts of current a good alternator will produce!
Nice one Tanuki I will do this when we get to putting it all back together
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Yeah if we can't sorce a late bulkhead we mite have to get a galv one but they are as expensive as a chassis
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So watch this space
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These pic's are from after we jet washed it
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Bulkhead pic'
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Some of the interior
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Hi guys
Either this weekend or next weekend me and son will be starting work on a 1971 petrol s11a restoration ( full nut and bolt ) we aquired the vehicle last year but had to replace the chassis on our 90 first due to it being involved in a no fault ( to us ) accident which damaged the chassis, anyway the s11a has a rotten chassis which will be replaced with a new galv chassis, the bulkhead is in a bit of a mess as it recently had work done on it prior to us buying it but for some reason it looks like the worst parts of it got missed out, the front door hinges are welded to the bulkhead and the footwells and pillars are rotten out aswell so if the bulkhead is too bad to repaire we mite buy a better bulkhead that needs less work and use that, all 3 door frames are rotten so will be replacing those aswell but the rest of the body looks in good shape, the g/box will be refurbished aswell as both axles, nut sure what we are doing with the engine yet till we do a comp test first then decide on what to do, anyway here are some pic's when we first bought it
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Hi guys
One of the jobs we will have to do whilst doing the restoration on our 11a is to convert it from a dynamo to an alternator, is this an easy job to do, what do you think.
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Graham
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Cheer's guys i'am not too fussed as I like both colours but son likes it in limestone as it is now, think its one of those things we will have to decide on when we get to the stage of painting the insides of stuff that's going back on.
I will open a new thread once we start the restoration
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Sorry - Def 90 2.5TD truck cab 1988 in green!
Are same year as mine then 1988 2.5TD county ( 200TDI ) as said try looking at the two earths one on the bulkhead next to the fuel filter and the other is a small nut and bolt on the driver's footwell slap bang in the middle between the clutch pedal box and fuel filter
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Have you checked that the H/B shoes are still intact
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The holes are all in the block, you need to relocate the oil filter though.
It's not beyond the wit of man to manage it I can assure you of that.
That's right I forgot about the oil filter, Mmmm something to think about then
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Yeah I have often wondered if the bolt holes on a 300 where the mounts are fitted to a 200 are fitted are threaded I know they are on one side but can't remamber which side,, it would be good if they are all threaded as I would fit one in mine ?
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Ok I will have a look once I have removed the Mazda drivers seat ?
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Basicly I got to the stage where everything else had been changed and because the box was leaking quite bad so I replaced it not expecting it to fix the pulling over problem but since I fitted it the pulling over stopped
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I had all this with mine even after replacing everything like a full bearmach poly bush kit, new springs and shocks, new steering ball joints and rear ball joint and it still did it but suddenly my steering box started to leak aswell with a bit of play that it had ever since i bought it 2 years ago, replaced the power steer box with a 2010 model box i bought off ebay mine's a ( 1988 ) model and it sorted it, hope this helps
Graham
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Thanks for the reply guys, appreciate it. I'm going to buy the series 3 as a donor and work from there, and see if it's worth the hassle of the putting the modern stuff in, and look into the IVA/SVA rules too, didn't think of them, good call
Yeah I totally under stand what your saying fridge freezer about if I'm going through the the hassle of putting 300tdi engine etc etc in a series I mase well go and buy a defender, but the series 2a I have is me dads old one from young and we're going to do it up as a father son type of thing so it's a little project, plus gives me the chance to learn mechanics and get into the Land Rover scene! But I will take your advice and keep my eye out and buy a half decent 300tdi defender when i come back from OZ as a run around, if anyone knows of any
Many thanks Greg
If I was you I would fit a 200tdi instead just as good as a 300tdi and slightly easier to work on aswell and there is still plenty about, if the petrol engine in the project vehicle we are about to start is not up to it we might consider converting it as I really enjoyed doing the conversion on my last one and running it aswell
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Hi guys
Just been reading Farmer joe's thread but i didn't wan't to hijack his thread so thought i would sart another thread, anyway back last october my fuel gauge started acting up after filling the fuel tank and running the tank down to around half full the gauge suddenly dropped to empty at the time the sender was a new BP one, anyway after just replacing the chassis which inc a new tank and a Bearmach sender the problem is still there, any idea's please or has anyone else had this problem
Graham
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Flat Roof on an old 90
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Mines a 1988 so wouldn't look to out of place ?