missingsid
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Posts posted by missingsid
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3 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:
V8's are available in the D3 but they are quite rare.
Indeed I had one for 5 years. But my signature is no longer showing.
Brilliant car but very very flawed, thought less than the Diesel version.
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At least V8s are readily available unlike in D3s.
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2 hours ago, Mossberg said:
Well a couple of things;
Firstly there are a few things on my land rover that I cant believe they thought were a good idea. I am sure some things were done on cost or ease of production rather than what is best for the application - though to be fair I would not put brake disk shields in that category. It is difficult to categorise a "one part suits all" brake disk shield when you look at a standard road vehicle and a vehicle that is used off road.
Secondly, many people improve their vehicles. These improvements may be because:- they look better, work better, adapt the vehicle for its owners use, make the vehicle easier to service, make the vehicle longer lasting etc.
Please don't think I am saying you are wrong, just making an observation.
With regards my particular situation - I don't have brake shields in the first place so it is not a case of leave them off or put them back. To fit them I would need to purchase them and the brackets which would probably cost in the region of £200 - that would probably cover the cost of four sets of discs. When the opinion of vehicle users on here is split 50/50, that cost influenced my decision. I am also trying to avoid any mud traps.
I have noted that people recommend keeping the rear shields, and when it comes to servicing the rear of the truck, they will be staying on (or replaced if required).
Thanks for your comment. I read people's opinions and then make a judgement based on my personal situation/vehicle use. Its good to get individual opinions to allow me to make that judgement.
ATB
Mick
When I used to do more regular off road events you could always find at least one coiler that still had them fitted. They were the ones making a horrible screeching noise from the trapped stones.
That must be good for the disks.
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Doesn't say Series 1 but as 86" dash is similar to Series 2 it may well fit as well?
It has been said on here before, if sold professionally then they need to ensure quality for safety and liability so it will always be much more expensive.
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55 minutes ago, nileseh said:
Not so much related to this, but you guys seem to know about these alternators. I'm trying to put a tach on my 2.5L diesel. I have a VDO 52mm device that is supposed to operate off the AC output of an alternator. That would be the "W" terminal, but I don't get an indication when I connect the tach. The alternator output at 750 RPM crankshaft speed is 1.2v at 650 Hz. Is that about right?
I just looked on the Web and most answers came from boat owners. VDU tachos for connection in this format had a calibration system that needs to be set. Maybe a table of pulley sizes to look at or maths to be done as this decides the rpm of the alternator unlike ignition that is always tied to the engine.
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1 hour ago, pete3000 said:
I've got one of your Gauge wizards Chris, cracking bit of kit. Sorted out the issue with my faulty td5 speedo conversion not being able to drive the td5 fuel gauge or the low fuel light warning (which was on even with 1/2tank). Now i have a working low fuel light (with anti slosh) and a "brown" flashing fuel light.
I have a tacho adapter fitted, not perfect (it is not accurate at low revs) but that may be the EDIS/ Megajoolt not your kit. It saved me buying new and enabled me to match old speedo and tacho so I'm happy.
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16 hours ago, nileseh said:
Yes, of course, no lights. That's the light switch position clockwise. Silly me.
I've not seen the push-twist head light before. It's a good system, do you recall what cars used it? I've had Minis, MGs, Jaguars, Land Rovers all with 7" lights.
I stand corrected and apologize. British Army. But then what do we know here? I don't even know how to shift this thing with my left hand.
Thanks for the help.
Only joshing you, if I talk about another country I am sure there is loads I can be teased for. It was just too easy.
I don't know the system you have, what I saw on military vehicles was the same as all the above you mention so I could be miles off.
If I am then feel free to roast me.
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5 hours ago, nileseh said:
Brilliant! Push in and rotate it is. CCW rotation. Of course. In the Royal Army the chaps can't be bothered with messing with little screws that fix the reflector in place. They spare the entire assembly so when an errant rock or sniper shot renders the headlight unservicable it can be replaced on the fly with a push and twist. Very nice.
Except in battle they don't use lights at all! Kind of dangerous.
The twist and remove system (military might be a bit different) was on British cars as standard for 7 inch headlights, when we still made our own cars.
Second sarcastic comment, what's a Royal Army! We have the British Army but the only Royal ones are the nobs in Buck Palace who are pretend heads not actual leaders.
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20 hours ago, ejparrott said:
Thanks Fridge, exactly the kind of thing I've been thinking of, not a name I recognise, will have a look at their site later
Plus one for Think, great company really helpful. I has cost them more in their time than I have spent with them in parts bought. They are in the West London suburbs and have been helpful for about 30 years on and off for me.
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Hi,
All the important dimensions are in the factory Series 1 workshop manual. Any others you should be able to get from your existing chassis I would have thought.
Someone is bound to say 1/2 an inch over the engine is factory tolerances!
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Blimy just looked at the S50 information online, there's a lot to read.
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7 hours ago, Phill S said:
Ok - thanks guys. Slightly concerned about No.3 though. If that;s OAT the cooling system would have to have been flushed through thoroughly. I'll be watching out for the danger signals...
Looks like OAT to me.. I was told there is only 2 colours for coolants. What is standard then.
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On 1/6/2022 at 2:32 PM, L19MUD said:
Excellent....so my 110 has been retrofitted with early 90 41mm callipers then as a downgrade. I should have just bought the entire callipers from you....
What is especially pleasing is that I have spent hours cleaning them up and shot blasting them
Thanks Ralph
At least they are ready to sell.
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1 hour ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:
You need one of these : not sure if I have stock as just putting website back on line and need to double check ! If I have the wbshop will show stock, if not more are on order lol
Out of StockMegasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Solder Type
On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications ....
So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Solder' type unit - ( see below for a 'Screw' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Hole saying 'Tacho Out'
All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !.
Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits)
Out of StockMegasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Screw Type
On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications ....
So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Screw' type unit - ( see above for a 'Solder' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Tower screw Hole saying 'Tacho Out'
All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !.
Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits)Nice solution, better than loose diodes wired in.
My tacho (converted to digital) on Megajolt is a little vague at idle but on EDIS output was even worse, this would be better had I stuck to analogue.
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2 hours ago, Blanco said:
I guess plod's standpoint is understandable, but you would have thought proof of ID and home address would be sufficient, coupled with a limit of 1 per 12months or so.
Yes I would have that plus a receipt and logbook.
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I need to change the cat on my car and hoped to be able to sell the old one.
Not a hope plod has told all the scrap yards not to accept them. Eventhough I can prove legitimacy it is no go.
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2 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:
Yep well pleased with it but proof will be in the pudding on Monday when i'm out Metal detecting 🙂
Mind someone doesn't take a fancy to a stew!
Sorry not clever but hard to resist.
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15 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Harvey springs to mind IIRC.
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There is more to lane recovery post use than just numbers, driving style and Tyre size. A lot is down to the soil etc. I think I have said this before but during the European Jeepers Jamboree hundreds of Jeeps with very aggressive tyres drove lanes aggressively. The whole place was a quagmire, with miles of mud on the roads.
A year later it returned to the same lanes, most you couldn't tell they had been driven.
The French were amazingly tolerant (they have a history of supporting motorsport) even a household at the end of one lane did not bat an eyelid at all the motors going past all day and helped us out when we had an issue.
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7 hours ago, Snagger said:
I know you didn’t have any endfloat, but there is suspicion the CV wasn’t in the centre of the swivel, as when Mike pushed his too far in. It was his comment about the grinding that was interesting, though I suspect the grinding he’d have had was the rim of the outer cv bell against the inside of the chalice. Certainly, though, any such misalignment is going to throw the shafts tangentially.
Indeed, when it gets a bit warmer, -3 this morning, I will check.
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2 hours ago, Snagger said:
BritRest Mike has just posted a video set servicing a swivel joint and this last one has a moment at 11 minutes that may be of interest.
Like watching this guy.
Re the demo of the effect of lateral play in the CV I have no play as the CV was shimmed out to the stub axle. Still worth investigating though.
Did you notice the disconcerting amount of movement of the LR on the lift whenever he used the torque wrench! I would be pooping it but I guess he is used to it.
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22 hours ago, uninformed said:
So the RRC hub allowed the AEU2522 CV to float inward because it was narrower?
No because it was shimmed internally to remove the movement, in theory.
Truth is it could still be that or it could be too much restriction inside.
My guess is a combination of things. Remember the other side with the recessed shaft did not rub at all.
I think the way forward is to choose one style of location, either bushes and no circlips ala RRC OR no bush and location by circlips ala 110 NOT both!
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7 hours ago, uninformed said:
@missingsid didn’t just use a 110 stub axle, it was paired to RRC swivel assemblies. Given the very small variation between the 110 and RRC stub it shouldn’t have been a problem. He definitely has things to check though.
I agree that you can’t use a 110 stub on a SIII or Stage 1 set up.
Hi happy new year, not all is good with using 110 CVs and stubs with RRC hubs and swivels. It also transpires that the RRC hub is about 10mm narrower than the 110 hub so the CV outer circlip does not touch the drive member. This is not related to wide or narrow bearings and drive members.
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Wishing you the best outcome possible, there is good support available, make sure you get what you need.
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200tdi suspect head gasket failure? thoughts...
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I did this on a D3, not very conclusive, then I learnt you need to fill the tank to near full to remove the air as it will significantly reduce the chemical reaction.
CO2 will turn it from blue to yellow but air/oxygen will turn it back to blue. It can be reused.