missingsid
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Posts posted by missingsid
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The comments fly in the face of the original statement, can be easily removed for the MoT.
This says it all.
As for being flashed in the Seat that is not a surprise, the cars with the most blinding lights right now are all VAG manufactured.
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8 minutes ago, Escape said:Have you considered just replacing the H4 bulbs with LEDs? That's what I have done on my P38, I got them from https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ I'm considering doing the same on my Esprit, lots of light for sensible money and easy to undo if needed (MOT or such).
Who cares about a few blinded motorists or accidents.
If you have to take them out to meet the MoT they shouldn't be in in the first place Duh.
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Thanks guys you have helped immensely and given me a way forward. I am confident (or blind faith) that this is a result of two issues that together caused the problem. Both were assumptions on my part and you know what they say about that.
My new year is going to be much brighter now if correct, or at least until its shown its not!
Thanks again.
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7 hours ago, jad said:
There shouldn't be any issues in ferries and the are cheaper than the Chunnel. The nearest LPG station is less than half a mile from my house and it's still nearly half the price of petrol. At 17mpg a round trip to my parents the other day was half a tank of fuel. I plan to speak to my insurance. My vehicle isn't very standard at the moment and I only pay £165 so don't think it would change much.
I'd be surprised if the insurance would wear it as the normally want to see a certificate of installation to ensure you have not created a bomb that will cost them a huge amount in 3rd party claims.
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1 hour ago, uninformed said:
What do you mean the splines aren’t hardened?
Not quite accurate I suspect, are they case hardened? I was told by both Rakeway who made them and KAM who designed them that they can be cut easily. That is why Rakeway suggested them for me. There is also a comment that they can be welded as they are not hardened as std. I may have got the wrong idea though.
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Writing replies at the same time as eachother gets a bit wiered.
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I now have 2 machining options.
Recess Stage 1 shaft at damage for clearance.
Extend splines on RRC shaft and shorten.
They both started life the same length the splines aren't hardened so can be cut by a grinder.
You can just see the diff gear witness mark on one shaft level with the end of the thick part of the splined end of the other so I have enough material.
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I wonder how much it costs to get the splines machined and how long they need to be.
This is the other ends with the CV ends level.
Can't complain re KAM as they gave me the Stage 1 prototype for free.
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5 minutes ago, uninformed said:
If your wheel bearings and steering stops are adjustable correctly , I’d say you need to check the old and new CVs against each other. Your shim/end float may have been excessive?
So it becomes a bit clearer.
This is KAM RRC vs KAM Stage 1
They didn't machine the same as Stage one doesn't need it!
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59 minutes ago, uninformed said:
@missingsid while it MAY be something, I’m not convinced the shafts should move much off centreline, therefore needing clearance there….
What CVs did you have before these blue box were fitted?
Std RRC suffix A and matching stub. The AEU2522 will be much more rigid in the stub axle due to fixed at both ends, CV bush and drive flange. The 90 deg full lock turn was definitely when it first picked up as I felt it snatch. Should have stopped but too eager.
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4 minutes ago, uninformed said:
@missingsid I wonder if the factory RRC shafts have clearance between the oil seal land and the bronze thrust sleeve land for a reason….🤔
I notice @Gazzar factory Stage 1 shafts don’t have the clearance there, but it is also my understanding that the Series swivel ball has more throat clearance (needs confirmation?)
Ah you just beat me to it.
I might revise my recovery plan, grind the damage out removing sharp edges.
Thanks all this has really helped.
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1 hour ago, uninformed said:
@missingsid these pics may or may not help?
Genuine RRC inner axle shaft (front) showing bronze thrust sleeve and spline spacer.
Now I assume your shafts are a custom length as you stated RRC swivel assemblies on a Series housing. Since the bronze bush doesn’t support the shaft in anyway, it’s not needed if you are using a spring clip inside the CV star. Given you have AEU2522 CVs in a early 110 stub (I assume it’s the early and not later stub axle?) they should be the correct paired lengths. I’m not sure what has happened to allow your inner shaft to come in contact with the throat of the swivel ball?
And here may be the smoking gun!
Standard shaft has a reduced diameter between the Bush and the oil seal face, KAM shafts don't it is all the same size diameter thus there is much less clearance for the chalice hole to shaft face. In fact the damage to my half shaft has reduced its diameter to that of a standard shaft!
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1 hour ago, uninformed said:
@missingsid these pics may or may not help?
Genuine RRC and LR 110 stub axles. I checked a few points around each and the largest difference I could find between the two was 0.3mm (measured from the stub axle mounting face to the bronze bush thrust face)
Genuine RRC inner axle shaft (front) showing bronze thrust sleeve and spline spacer.
A 98’ Defender swivel ball showing the machined face for the bronze thrust sleeve to run against. Interestingly by this time I don’t think any LR vehicles were using this set up anymore, (going across the board to the groove, spring clip and stub shaft with shims and circlip to control inward thrust/float) yet they still machined the swivel balls…
Now I assume your shafts are a custom length as you stated RRC swivel assemblies on a Series housing. Since the bronze bush doesn’t support the shaft in anyway, it’s not needed if you are using a spring clip inside the CV star. Given you have AEU2522 CVs in a early 110 stub (I assume it’s the early and not later stub axle?) they should be the correct paired lengths. I’m not sure what has happened to allow your inner shaft to come in contact with the throat of the swivel ball??
I do have both AEU2522 and R606665 CVs in genuine, but they are packed away and I can’t be bothered digging them out to be honest 😬. I do *THINK* they are the same in the crucial areas , size wise.
Brilliant it is blowing a gale here in the south so you have saved me from working in it thank you.
0.3mm shouldn't have caused a problem as I had play I shimmed out a little (though that might be the reason in its self) so the other thought is that the swivel pins adjustment was so tight (I didn't check it as a so called professional set it up) that the height of the CV was wrong and forced the shaft into the bottom of the hole? More investigation needed.
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9 hours ago, simonr said:
I decided just to get on with it - and ordered a press (sort of a late Xmas prezzie for the workshop!). I have some parts I want to cut & fold - so it's not a bad time.
This is what I ordered.
This is what I'm going to build! A 3 Axis office chair (as you do).
Slight gap before filming starts then?
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Change of engine will be points lost, but axles are coiler to coiler so just like for like replacement parts. Brakes are not points and are a safety upgrade so are points exempt for the axle change anyway.
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3 minutes ago, missingsid said:
That's part of the confusion, they have everything. Bronze bush inboard of the chalice, spring clip and bronze bush at the CV and clip on the drive member plus shims!
I am going to call Nige when he opens shop in the new year.between him and Steve (if he is still there) they should be able to help. I was just too proud to ask before and it was working before I changed to AEU2522 CVs.
Which means, talking about it really helps.
The shafts were perfect before the CV change! So the 2 miles at 20mph did no damage, it all happened due to the AEU2522s in 10 ft at full left lock which damaged the right shaft, then 100ft at 5 mph killed it!
This probably means the CV was out of alignment with the swivel pins and pushed the shaft into the chalice at the oil seal.
I am pretty sure the old and new CVs are the same size so it can only be the depth of the bush face of the 110 stub axles! I was going to use the RRC stubs but chose the 110 ones but forgot to measure the depths as I intended. It had free play before shimming so I thought nothing of it.
Sorry I have hijacked the thread.
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18 minutes ago, uninformed said:
If they are RRC shafts , do they have a spring clip and groove on the CV end? RRC did not and relied on a bronze thrust sleeve at the swivel ball flange to control end float.
That's part of the confusion, they have everything. Bronze bush inboard of the chalice, spring clip and bronze bush at the CV and clip on the drive member plus shims!
I am going to call Nige when he opens shop in the new year.between him and Steve (if he is still there) they should be able to help. I was just too proud to ask before and it was working before I changed to AEU2522 CVs.
Which means, talking about it really helps.
The shafts were perfect before the CV change! So the 2 miles at 20mph did no damage, it all happened due to the AEU2522s in 10 ft at full left lock which damaged the right shaft, then 100ft at 5 mph killed it!
This probably means the CV was out of alignment with the swivel pins and pushed the shaft into the chalice at the oil seal.
I am pretty sure the old and new CVs are the same size so it can only be the depth of the bush face of the 110 stub axles! I was going to use the RRC stubs but chose the 110 ones but forgot to measure the depths as I intended. It had free play before shimming so I thought nothing of it.
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1 hour ago, Gremlin said:
Odd damage, as the swivels have a lot of clearance usually, at least on the stage 1 swivels. , Only the seal retainer is in that location.
Coiler swivels are tight in that location.
Grem
Yes the full story is that it is actually a mix of Imperial RRC parts and KAM RRC shafts and 110 CVs bolted to a Series case. The clearance should have been OK unless you are supposed to open them out? Nothing was said by KAM as they knew what I was doing. The Stage 1 part is that they were prototype shafts.
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46 minutes ago, uninformed said:
Looks like there should be a oil seal retainer in the inner axle end of the swivel ball, and the oil seal seats in that and runs on the oil seal land on the inner shaft. The CV will be supported by a bronze bush in the inner end of stub axle and the drive flange at hub. The CV supports the inner shaft at that end, the side gear at the other. The inner shaft is located in the CV with a Spring clip, this retains the inner shaft to the CV and the CV to the hub by a circlip on end of stub shaft.
I personally do not run any axle oil seals, and use the diff to hub as one compartment. I would machine that gouge clean and delete the oil seal.
Interesting, the oil seal area looks OK I think I will check the chalice inside. I was thinking to weld and regrind it. Or rather get it done.
Other option is to smooth it out and see how it goes.
I have yet to remove the long shaft, the effect of misalignment (that is what I think caused it) will be less.
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12 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Possibly:
These must be rears as they are longer than coiler fronts!
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A Chalice.
Another one.
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Swivel ball is the chalice and yes it is a drinking cup. Think Holy Grail.
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24 minutes ago, Gremlin said:
How did that happen? They rotate together, or I am missing something.
Mine have been in a couple of years now, and it's been fine. No issues, unless I dismantle and find hell. Mine is also on blue box CV's.
Grem
I can't see if there is a bearing in it or just the oil seal. I think there is a white metal bearing? The oil seal land on the halfshaft has a gouge out of it. I am going to wipe it clean today so will post a pic.
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10 hours ago, deep said:
It seems highly likely that someone in the workshop didn't tighten a clamp properly and it does sound like the engine overheated. That being the case, either the temperature gauge or warning light was faulty, which seems unlikely, or you failed to observe the warning. You can't really blame the dealer for that, surely?
Little harsh, if it has just been fully serviced and replaced it is very easy to miss for long enough to do damage particularly on a motorway if a pipe comes off. Plus the info is very ambiguous at best re the reason for the failure, did a pipe split or was it not tightened in the first place? On my D3 the coolant warning is a 10 sec maybe only 5 sec message at the bottom of the dash that is gone before you can read it and never reapears unless you stop and start the engine. LR decided it was unimportant.
The trouble as always with the post is it is reliant upon the dealers comments and the customers understanding of them and the description of it here. There is more to this than we can know at this point.
Led headlight recommendations
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Also very true.