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missingsid

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Posts posted by missingsid

  1. I just removed my KAM Stage 1 24 spline short shaft with a club hammer after it picked up in the chalice and the vehicle came to a unmovable halt.

    The shaft has tried to weld itself to the chalice after 1 mile at 20 mph!

    Not happy as it was the part that should have lasted forever and the blue box CV should have been Sacrificial!

    • Sad 1
  2. If in doubt I start from the master cylinder, block the exits with a bleed nipple. Fill with fluid, bleed and test for movement on the pedal. Then move out to the next set of bleed point bleeding and testing. This way I can prove both systems if a twin setup. If I get to a caliper and it is spongy I use a combination of bleed nipple and female joints to prove the system but eliminating the caliper.

    It's just like testing electrics.

  3. The oil pump is an easy fix If done BEFORE it breaks, the D4 pump was fitted to the last D3s made and is a retro fit for D3s. If you want a TDV6 then look for one with it or fit it as soon as possible.

    The oil pump issue is that the belt tensioner snaps the pump pulley off. Which kills the engine.

  4. 3 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:

    Technically a side effect of how it works, but yes, it does and it therefore makes some sense to turn it on when switching to demist.

    What about if you just want cool air directed at your face? I usually have the screen vents on for this, without my hands getting blasted with cold air, and I don't usually want it cold enough to need air con unless it's hot outside.

    I much prefer the system on my current car, which has a separate demist button which directs all air to the screen vents, activates air con and sets a minimum temperature and fan speed. Just turning on the screen vents is just... turning on the screen vents.

    Ah get it.

  5. 8 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:

    We used to have a Honda civic that did this. If the vents were set to demist the air con came on automatically when you started the car (no fancy climate control involved). Drove me up the wall! I don't mind air con switching on when I switch to demist, but if I choose to turn it off it should stay off...

    But car aircon works by removing the moisture from the air so it demists quicker when on.

  6. 1 hour ago, L19MUD said:

    They all do this as standard. I never turn mine off as even when the car is heating the air not cooling it, it is always also working as a dehumidifier and stopping the windows steaming up

    I don't remember my 2002 L322 doing it but all 2007 on TDV8's do it and the later 2010 on facelifted ones too

    My D3 would steam up if left on recycle  IIRC the manual stated don't do it for long periods.

  7. 43 minutes ago, reb78 said:

    I'm curious about that Hummer vs Prius paper. Where is the break point? Both papers talk about discrete mileage figures one arguing the Prius is too low and Hummer too high and vice versa. Someone could presumably model it as a sliding scale and at a certain point they will be equal and above/below that one will have the advantage? It sounds like there were other faults with the analysis though. 

    Not an accurate test but Top Gear thrashed a Pius and at 70 they claimed it had as bad mpg as an M3 at the same speed.

    I was due to drive one today the length of the M4 but COVID stopped play otherwise I would have first hand info.

  8. Simplistic uneducated  view but they will be obsolete as well. Until charging technology also reaches a  plateau, the oldest  charging systems will disappear. I have a number of universal chargers for laptops etc. each has a min of 6 up to 10 different adapters. Even though EV connectors are common the charging technologys have moved on. Original EV charging took hours, now it can take minutes, why would a roadside charging company continue to support a slow charge system when a fast charge system can have the same revenue per customer but many times more customers per day.

  9. 2 hours ago, tommobot said:

    Been doing a bit of google, 

    It looks like there is FTC3846 & FRC7329 which are both disks for a 110 but seem to change for the inclusion of ABS.

    By all accounts there is an 8mm difference in the hat thickness - On this basis, everyone else doing the converison has been using the opposite disks to this (as if you were doing the converison you probably woulndt have ABS), hence the need for the spacer to push it over.

    I would guess, my caliper would sit 2mm slightly to one side - I think... 🤔 maybe 😐...making my poor brain hurt.

     

     

    When I did mine I googled the part number and looked at images as the search results, some alterative suppliers post drawings of the part with the dish and diameter size.

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