missingsid
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Posts posted by missingsid
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I have agree with Luke the more expensive one is easier to move around when folded up, and will happily lift a 300TDI/autobox and transfer box as one on full stretch.
Pete.
I have the one without the extra wheels to move it when folded and it is a pain. This is particularly true when you hit a stone or a lip as the castors drop to the lowest point and the whole thing gets very heavy and tried to crush you.
Marc.
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Surely apart from a bit of rust making the drum a tiny bit thicker at the edge, the lip is irrelevant.
A lip can stop the drum from coming off as the shoes get caught but the lip is caused by wear in the drum which will make the inside diameter larger. The lip is still the same size as it was when it was new and you would expect the shoes to fit then!
Marc.
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Nice looking LR.
I guess by the different hub centres on the back axle that it is only 6x4 not 6x6?
Still nice.
Marc.
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Thanks Nige,
I do love your tales.
My little girl was worried tonight as I came downstairs after my shower with a trail of splatter marks on my chest.
I was under the Series 1 sorting out the chassis and it was too hot for thick clothes.
She ran upstairs to get her antiseptic cream for me
Marc.
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According to the Ryco Australia website, the earlier RRs 69-77 used a filter with a 13/16 x 16 UNF thread, the later RRs from 77-95 used filters with a 3/4x16UNF thread. See here,range Rover filters
Steve
Thanks Steve,
This makes my comments c%$p but nothing new. One day I will learn to shut up
Marc.
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Facet pumps are available from Motor-sport shops or you friendly LR parts department.
The were used on V8 and 6 cylinder Series. You might have to get the pipe fittings from the motor-sport dealer though as I have been told by my local LR parts shop that the LR fittings for the Facet pumps are no longer available. A New pump is around £60 including fittings if not from LR.
Marc.
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ive tryed moving the rad but i can only move it about an inch as the bottom hits the front cross member, ive junked the viscus fan and got an electric already but even after all this ive still only got about 1/4 of an inch between the pump and the rad
how badly out of line? (will it work and get me back on the road?)
mine might be an odd pump because the only way to cut the nose would remove the flange that the pully attaches to
thanks for the answers A Jackson
If they don't line up they will wear on one side or may throw the belt.
I have a different pump that that shown, if I get a chance tomorrow I will see if I can get a picture.
Marc.
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I used to use Champion as they had two sizes one longer than the other, now they don't make it at all
Aren't the later engines (1980s on) 3/4 UNC? ERR3340
If this does not fit it could be an early carb engine originaly I had a P5 engine and this had a smaller thread IIRC and a newer filter would fall on (and off).
Does this link help? Probably not actualy
Marc.
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One consolation though, if it ever goes under water the engine will keep running until long after the driver has drowned
Marc.
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Throw away Viscous fan, cut the nose off and fit a lecy fan.
IIRC though some pulley wheels will fall of if the nose is cut off? Mine was welded to hold it on on an old pump?
And to answer the other question, yes the pulley may not line up if you change it. Mine didn't and a pain in the rear.
Marc.
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The "Mule" was I think originally build by Steve Gates
it had a Jenson Interceptor engine in it
and waslater owned by Chris Bashall, who changed the engine after
the Jenson went "pop"
I think CB shoved a Rover V8 in ?
Nige
Yup, Jenson's were 440 Wedge engines.
Out of interest, a Hemi has the plugs in the centre of the heads in a recessed tunnel in the rocker cover. Would this be more protected from water than a normal V8 with the plugs low down by the exhaust manifolds?
Marc.
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Heads up
Being a pedantic old bugger, I wnated to be sure I had "Got" the misfire,
so I removed Plug No 1 on the V8 and placed each of the old plugs in turn,
3 plugs later I found the misfiring plug, did the others and they seemed ok
Sat and studied the misfiring plug.
On seriously close examination I think I may have discovered the issue
as the phrase goes "It just came apart in me hands guv - 'onest"
The plug electrode shows burning at the base, more interestingly the design
of the NGK BP etc has changed, the top tip used to be removable, now it isn't
and the design changed, unsure how / why this seems to have happened here, but
I "think" it may be the issue ?
Nige
Hi Nige,
I hope that you have found your problem.
For me I hope that they have stopped making plugs with screw on caps. I have lost count of the number of times I have taken plugs out and re-tightened the caps
Marc.
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Pete Rowe has raced with a Big Block chevy Land Rover,
stunning power outputs, and a huge number of modifications
strengthening everything that needs strengthening,
and lightening everything else
Often dismissed by those who don't see past what looks at
1st glance quite a "Standard LR"
Nige
The 440 Wedge was I think the "Mule"?
Marc.
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Oi BBC
You been overdosing on those telephatic tablets again bl**dy druggie ?
Yep, having had a VERY long Conv with a Plug Guru
(no, not that sort he has said the following
1. Heat range - with a block now 4.5 heat soak is huge, suggested an oil cooler - which was on the cards
2. Plugs are prob working outside the "Approved" Ranges - esp when Red hot plug cermaic shoved in Rocker cover deep ice cold water
3. Gap set at .6 is again at the max for this plug, but would be OK for road use with 40,000 output, but not 1 and 2 added
4. Changing plug temp rnage may cause starting issues but has suggested a alternative, written down here somewhere but way off what I have now
5. Aviod C Plugs (ie BPC etc) as reduces cooling dump via surface area
6. No 6 - Monty Python gag, showing me age
7. Don't bother cleaning, the plug prob is a combo of Cam, fuel fouling on start, Heat and warm up
8. avioding cold starts and short journeys and deep ponds will help
9. Cam causing washing on start up due to Valve overlap, suggested raised start up numbers to reduce the lower RPMs
10. Fit a diesel* - so I shot him, .............even if he was helpful
Nige
* may have made this up
Hi Nige,
This is not a criticism as I love your LR and the work you have put into it, but when you you describe your engine spec surely it is the least likely for anything except a race car or comp safari motor, why put it in a slow off road motor? Wouldn't you would be better with an LS engine or something that has loads of torque and is really simply tuned?
NO NOT a DIESEL.
Marc.
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There used to be a 440 Wedge engine in a Hybrid IIRC can't remember what it was called but the front end was a bit busy under the bonnet.
As to why prefer the LS engines, better ask the Ladoga guy's but my guess is that as the next gen Chevy there is shed loads of parts that fit, loads of knowledge and loads of power in a light(ish) package.
IIRC Hemis are very large capacity upper 400cu or more and thus a Big Block engine, where as an LS engine is a Small Block and can be available as an all Ally engine?
Edit,
Correction I missed the 5.7 Hemi which his I guess is Small Block territory but was under the impression that hemis are larger physically than Chevys?.
Marc.
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Someone one on the way home from footy training then.......
Nobody else can have that little taste...... can they.......??
Got to the third picture and had to stop.
What horrid intieriors and Gangster outsides.
Marc.
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Here's mine for what it's worth
I had a look at my Series 1 LR reprint manual last night.
It suggests using a sack to catch the spring as it flies out of the bottom of the inner unit.
It then shows refitting using a pin in a hole half way down the unit and screwing the spring in to a compressed state.
Looked bloody dangerous to me and it wasn't even a Ha&$es Manual.
Marc.
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The link from mike4444244 - 1/2 way down the page:
Note 3:
An adult harness belt comprising a lap belt and shoulder straps bearing a British standard marking is an acceptable alternative to any of the seat belt types listed.
Acceptable to what? Where is the list please as I could not find it:)
Cheers,
Marc.
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Hmmm,
Vehicle made up of two different ones welded together...
That won't interest the DVLA much
As for the Police after a serious accident?
Marc.
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I live in an open estate with a mixed bag of owners.
Opposite I have a Grammar School Teacher, next door a Blue Collar worker who is great and down the road an A***hole who has made some money youngish and extended his house to three times it was and thinks he is King of the Estate.
I do feel guilty on a Sunday and try to keep the noise short, in general I apply the view of, what would I expect from neighbours (not the afternoon Aussie type) and how would I feel if I lived next door.
I agree about the council, I think they are more interested if they think you might be running a business.
As for visitors I keep getting Pikies wanting to buy my LRs. Odd thing is I have a neighbour who had a V8 90 but never acknowledged me when I was working on my Hybred V8, I tried to knock on his door but he never would stop when passing? I have also seen a Challenge Tray Back 90 on a beaver tail on my estate a couple of times but again no hello.
Who said Land Rover owners are friendly?
Marc.
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Stand it upright on the flange on a level lump of plate
Place a straight edge across the top equal overhang each sidfe
Measure from the end of each of the overhangs to the base
they should be equal, if not its bent
Do this to check axle bend back to front and up / down
if that makes sense as casings can bend either way
Nige
How about using a builders level on the plate first to get it level, then on the axle flange?
Would this be a quick check or more involved?
Marc.
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Second-hand earlier ones are plentiful off Fiestas and the like, with plastic clips and o-rings to hold the leads together and make them water tight, much better than the generation 2 coil packs, where the lead boots are no where near as nicely made.
Reports are they rarely fail, so why bother getting a new aftermarket one which may not be made to the same quality, when you can get a good second hand one for a tenner?
Scrapyard visit would be my choice
As above, I am also building up my parts list.
As I have just scrapped a Fiesta I took the parts off it. I was also advised that the earier Coil Pack was best for waterproofness. The post also look lower in height than the new type which are a push fit? wheras the old type have a clip holding them down on the 'O' ring.
Out of interest where did you get your Edis 8 from as I have not got one yet?
Good Luck,
Marc.
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How old is the fuel?
I have a bike and a LR that have been sitting for a while, the petrol for both was very poor and would only just light and burn with a lot of smoke if poured on the ground and lit. After replacing the fuel the motor ran fine.
Marc.
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Me 2
On the face of it a 50mm Ball coupling does not look very secure, but how many pictures have you seen of trailer accidents where the trailer is not only still attached but has either lifted the towing vehicle off the ground or is suspending it over the edge of a drop?
Surely both NATO and 50mm have been designed to do specific jobs?
Marc.
(no, not that sort 
Tyre Changing at home
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Don't get me wrong as I am all for making stuff for free.
But have you factured in your time in the cost calculation or does the fun of it cover that?
I have a Sealy tyre changer which cost £60 new and works a treat (OK the locating peg needs adjustment), for that price it's not worth making one.