missingsid
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Posts posted by missingsid
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Same as.
My Hybred was always put on a singlr roller system and the tester did loads of LR with full time 4x4.
The risk must come from a locked or limited slip centre diff?
If it grabs it will push the LR off the roller, thing is how fast?
Marc.
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Nice to see one that has not been overly restored and which has the patina that only comes with age and use. Patina is lost when vehicles get stripped down and restored to new, or in some cases better than new condition. Untouched, original early models are becoming harder to find but I doubt it will realise that price. A seller can ask what price he wants - whether he gets it is another matter.
I agree, much nicer as is. There are enough imaculate over restored ones already.
Looking at the housing area the owner has an over inflated view of collectors cars?
Marc.
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Hi Marc Re "(not sure if they were Fedima Trial Ade)" All Fedima tyres are a bead-to-bead reconstructed tire with all markings in the mold.
So I dont think they were Fedima.
I think you are correct. I have just looked at a photo of one and they have writing on the side that the ones I saw did not.
Marc.
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Last year I saw a set of Bogger copies (not sure if they were Fedima Trial Ade) but they had the rotation arrows facing the wrong way for the tread pattern. This meant that the carcases were wrong which isn't a problem off road if you fit them backwards but is a problem if you use them on road as they would be illegal.
Up until then I had thought of getting some but as I could only find them mail order I could not guarantee the rotation fitting before purchasing them.
Marc.
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My mate regularly passed scrotes burning out motors near him and always called the police.
Bearing in mind that it was known that there was a organised ring of theives in the area stealing for parts before torching the remains. The police never responded and he gave up calling. Probable just a nuisance.
An other time I called in at a Vauxhall garage and saw a dirty Astra in the forcourt, upon asking about rallying it, they replied that they had lost two off the forcourt and only got this one back they had no knowledge of the other one. I responded by telling them where I had seen one complete with "Police Aware" sticker. Presumably the police were going to tell them but had not had time? Oh by the way the police station was next door to the garage!
Marc.
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I shall follow this thread with interest...
I have been pondering security for my soft top series 3 for a while now, A loud alarm triggered by doors and an imobiliser is on the cards. I also figured a large chain a shiney padlock through a wheel and over a chassis leg might deter somone. It lives in the garage at home, after i've removed the hood sticks. I also have an unmarked switch that kills the fuel pump and coil. Starting is via an unmarked push button rather than the ignigtion.
I understand your motives, however as someone who has had a member of joe public park up his car under my bedroom window whilst he went off on a dirty weekend (not mud) and expected me to stop any git from attacking his car when it woke me up, I disagree with the whole ethos of alarms and expecting someone else to stop the theft.
Besides which I have seen people happily deriving a car with the alarm in full voice etc.
As an owner of a Series 1 which is driven with no door tops or door locks I rely on large imovable and obvious locks and hidden switches.
Marc.
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Thanks for the link.
I took the time to go through the names.
My friend was lucky, he fought and came back unhurt, but maybe not unchanged?
Marc.
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Can't say I'm sad to see that there not coming here.
But then again I still drive a Series1 so no Defender would be my cup of tea anyway.
Marc.
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Even if you have a tow ball/pin at the back for heavy recoveries I would still recommend using a bridle attached to 2 jate rings to spread the load to both chassis rails- tow balls are only as strong as the crossmember they are attached to...
True,
I have had one on the back of my Series1 since the 1980s with out problems.
Use the correct bolts and a large plate behind the crossmember.
Marc.
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Nope mine stays.
Series 1 will never go.
Hybred .........maybe..
Marc.
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Hi Moony123,
I just pinched this off Tractorboy16's Hybred thread.
Looks to be from D44?
Marc.
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For our racer my mate used Hydraulic hose. It is strong enough to use from front to back (no joints) and only made smooth bends so if flowed well and did not air lock.
Although not specifically for hot liquids hydraulic fluid must get quite hot?
Marc.
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Orbital sander and paraffin.
leaves it dull but even and hide marks.
This is how my Prototype Lab used to finish ally panels before painting.
Marc.
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I also pay £25 a week, including power.
God I hate you even more now
I pay £50 per month for a large single garage with power on a quiet farm.
The only problem is the dust
Mind you, when I changed my gearbox (all day event) one of the farmer brothers towed my hybrid in to a large dry barn and helped me finish the work at midnight even though he was supposed to go out with is fiancée that night
Marc.
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Haven't tried it but someone also told me that if you have a battery that won't charge put in the freezer for a couple of hours first. Any thoughts on this?
I would be totally amazed if this would work (more than the welder) since most car batteries die in winter due to the cold.
Marc.
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yes
here in Malta we have a number.... they had a hard top previously but reverted to a soft top for weight issues in competitions..
what they do is put holes in the tilt where the flanges are screwed together...
have no pics at the moment but if I find some i will post them up for you.... I have also seen the same setup on half internal and half external cages... soft top is fitted then cage bolts on the flages as before but instead of a hard top, there is a soft top... holes are done in the bolt holes in the soft top...so essentially the soft top would have to be always used with a cage...
My Hybred used to have a full tilt and half external, same as above.
Marc.
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The note above sounds good except that my Hybred has a trailer flasher wired up and used to flash normally on the dashboard. Now it does as this thread, flashes once and stops. Nothing has changed in the wiring.
Marc.
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Quicky...
Can anyone tell me the fixing centres for the gearbox cross member, front to rear and top to bottom ?
Early Range rover chassis if it make any difference ?
Ta
Sorry Les,
I had a look for my spare one but it has disapeared and my Hybred is not on site.
I hope someone comes along soon.
Marc.
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For me this is a little bit paranoid
Both myself and a far more experienced mate have been running Series 1 V8s for years (more than 20).
I have broken a layshaft twice both times when taking it easy.
I am notorious for caning cars and my LR is no exception, as to my mate, he may be a little older, more experienced, more reserved but then again he would drift it with a caravan on the back so maybe not.
If you run 7.50s then I don't see a problem if you are running bigger tyres then yes.
Marc.
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Ow that's really not good.
Glad it's getting better even though it's more painful right now.
Good Luck with it.
Marc.
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Hi,
This is hearsay so not that usefull.
I recall a comment in the 90s that running a Volvo with permenant lights on was costing 1/2 a mile per gallon?
Marc.
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but wont the spring seats now be wrong?
sorry i havent got ms paint so i'll try and describe...
when you originally set it all up and welded on the spring perches - the perches were level, the diff nose pointed down and the flanges pointed backwards giving rubbish castor angle. In other words upside down.
you cut the flanges off and welded them back on at the correct angle whilst the spring perches were level. This gives the correct castor angle in relation to the spring perches when its mounted to the vehicle. So the diff will still be pointing in the wrong way in relation to the spring perches when they are in the level position?
From previous posts on this, if the pinion angle is correct with the new spring seats as set then the flange angle (ooerr) must have needed changing any way. otherwise the rest would be wrong now.
Well done again Les for sorting it out and sharing with everyone.
Marc.
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I Tried to wind up HFH on this but he would not bite.
An old issue of the Hants and Berks LRC magazine stated Rope over Strop. However a more recent comment from HFH (as a HBRO rep) was Strops are better and preferable to rope, there is a thread on here somwhere but I am not good at using the search engine here.
Marc.
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i can understand why you have cut and rewelded the tube to get the swivel castor angle right.... but your diff nose will still be pointing in the wrong direction wont it?
I must admit that I have the same concern unless I have missed something.
Marc.
building v8
in Series Forum
Posted
For my Series1 V8 removed the cowl, removed engine driven fan, pump is close to the rad.
Kenwood fan in front of rad, rad is a Series (1?) Diesel rad.
To date 15 years running I've never had any overheating problems.
Hope this helps?
Marc.