Bigj66
-
Posts
3,389 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
27
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Bigj66
-
-
7 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:
Hey everyone, what's the latest with this project/idea?
Cheers
Dave
Hi Dave
I decided instead to use the V8 in my Series 3. Once that project has been completed, the Series will be my daily and the 110 will be sold so in the meantime I’ll just leave I as a standard TD5. There’s a lot of information from this thread that I’ll be using in that project though.
-
I’ve heard a lot said about Magnecor leads and I think RPI recommend them but I’ve no personal experience of them.
-
Nice workshop👍
When mine was being built a couple of years ago I asked the builder to install additional overhead strengthened beams to take the weight of a chain hoist, engine and gearbox. I’m so glad I did now as it’s proved invaluable when lugging the V8 and ZF in and out of the Series.
You can’t move stuff around the workshop in the same way you can with an engine hoist but it does allow for more working room around the engine when it’s suspended and I now have the engine stand and tool chest to move both about if I need to.
-
2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
I never got on with stick, much prefer mig.
I might borrow a mig and give that a go just to compare.
-
Did you move your front panel forward?
-
Great cheers 👍
-
Is there a particular position the P38 box needs to be positioned on the series chassis when converting to power steering? On some conversions it seems to be just forward of the axle strap attachment bracket but I’m not sure how accurate that is. Is there a reference point to work from for distance and height?
-
2.5mm Rod @ 50amp.
Getting closer.
-
1
-
-
I see what Gazzar was saying about heat distortion 😳
-
2.5mm Rod @ 45 amps. The bead is higher but it’s getting harder to strike the arc at the lower current. I need to improve my finishing technique too as I think I’m hanging about for too long at the end of the run.
-
2.5mm E6013@ 140 amp. I think this is pretty self explanatory.
So I knocked the current down to 60 amp again and this looks a lot more promising.
The battery tray I’m practicing on is 2.5mm
-
Hmmm...my first ever run. E6013 1.6mm rod @ 60 amps.
Unless I’m being asked to replicate bird s**t then I have some work to do🤦♂️
I think my speed was too fast and electrode distance too far.
-
2 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Apologies have not come across clearly enough yes the rods you have will do vertical and overhead but that's not what I meant by multi positional the rods you have will not weld vertically downwards where as multi positional rods will they are slightly more expensive but easier to use for a novice no harm intended by that statement years ago when the company I work for went down a cross trading route we were all sent on basic welding courses stick only the instructor asked who was the worst welder the guy who stepped forward was given a rod and told to drag the rod downwards on the vertical instead of the traditionally upwards method the rest of us stood in amazement as the weld produced was as good as running a bead on the flat and all the slag peeled off in one go gobsmacked instructor explained that the rods were multi positional that memory never left me regards Stephen
Ah okay, I understand now. With these rods I should be able to weld upwards vertically but not downwards? I think I’ll order a pack of the multi directional ones as I think I’ll be needing them for some of the jobs I have to do. I’ll look around for a suitable rod number and post it up here before buying.
-
9 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
You can use that as a starting point however a part of it also comes down to how it works for you ( two stick welders may use different amperage for the same job ) also settings you would use on flat bench top stuff will need reducing for vertical and overhead welding you can also buy multi positional rods that are excellent can even weld downhand with them regards Stephen
Cheers Stephen
These E6013 rods are supposed to be for both horizontal and vertical welding but I wasn’t aware of the need to reduce amperage so thanks for that tip. I’m going to have a play with my welder on my old crossmember and some scrap so 🤞Joe
-
I’m going to give stick welding a go for the first time today and, in preparation, I’ve been reading up on the topic and looking at various YT videos.
With respect to the amperage required for different thicknesses of rod, I read about a rule of thumb that for every 1mm of rod diameter you should use about 30amps current. Any stick welders that can confirm that or give me some similar guidance?
I bought two packs of E6013 rods 1.6mm and 2.5mm. My understanding is that the smaller rods can be use for things like chassis welding where the plate thickness is 2-3 mm and the thicker rods for things like engine mounts at 4-5 mm thick plate? I just want to check that this is correct before I have a practice.
-
I’ve just freshened up the roof of the 110 with the Paintman products. Good quality paint and I also bought their tack rags and panel prep as they recommended. I’d use them again👍
-
Great thread, following with interest 👍
I think the custom car guys use kits to retrofit air suspension systems so that could be worth looking at if you’re still after non LR components.
Trying to imagine a Series 3 on air....🤔
-
I’m not sure if this is of any help but I disconnected the alternator on my Thor 4.0 yesterday and noticed it only had two connections one heavy brown to the battery and a thin brown and yellow to terminal D+.
If you can trace the WG wire that isn’t required and either strip it out or disconnect it then it should be safe.
-
I have one of these in my S3, it’s a great piece of kit.
-
I fitted a complete auto sparks loom to the 88 a few years ago and I can’t fault it. It came apart this afternoon just as easily as it went in. I wouldn’t play around with decades old wiring, just bite the bullet and fit a new one.
-
2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Agreed. Some day I'll do a pure series.
Or stick a Tesla engine in one.
I looked seriously at converting mine to electric but the cost of doing the job properly is unbelievably expensive for a hobby car but it would have been a great project to do.
-
Yep, great thread 👍
-
6 hours ago, lo-fi said:
Sounds like the carb wants a rebuild. I'd expect some kind of gasket or diaphragm failure, or could be as simple as the float isn't floating as well as it used to and the level is too high in the float chamber. Grab a rebuild kit, strip it down and freshen it up. Should get you going again.
As above, suspect the carb.
-
7 hours ago, Snagger said:
So, you’ll be doing the part time 4wd conversion to the LT230?
Yes. IF the autobox can be made to fit otherwise I’m going Old School V8 to series box conversion kit with 3.54 diffs.
And I’ve just got myself a decent 4.0 Thor engine today too 👍
-
1
-
Stick welding
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I watched a Weld.com video last night on YT and the chap was actually resting the stick on the metal as he welded. Apparently this is okay to do but I was struggling when I tried my first welding as I was trying to maintain a gap and move the stick all whilst the stick was getting shorter. If it’s okay to rest it on the metal then I might give it another go to see if that improves things as it would be handy to be able to at least do some decent tacks right now.