Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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4 minutes ago, Wytze said:
Yes, but caster will increase aswell. Weld up the holes in the series flanges, and set the coiler swivel to get that right again.
I was thinking of either doing that or just fitting the casing flange from a coiler to the series case.
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4 minutes ago, Wytze said:
Yes.. there would be. I think snagger used wedge's betwee the axle and spring to clear those
Yes I’ve read about that, spacing the spring on a block would bring it closer to the body and give more clearance perhaps. The tie bar would need to be shortened too.
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I just had a quick look under the 110 and can see that the tie bar is behind the axle on a coiler and in front on a leafer. Potentially there could be a clash between the bar and the spring.
Any reason why the axle flange off a coil axle couldn’t be welded to the casing of a leafer?
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Just now, Wytze said:
Disco micky or mikey did this. The thread must be here somewhere. The front axle wil get wider that way.
I did try searching and google but nothing on this particular subject came up. Isn’t the increased track due to the wider casing?
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1 hour ago, Arjan said:
Ehm.....
"... including the rear hubs that I need to replace.."
Why do you need to replace the hubs ?
The Zeus kit is a straight bolt on job - we did not replace the hubs..
Or did I miss something ?
The Zeus kit is, as far as I know, not for vented discs but spacers for the caliper could be made if you want.
The Zeus kit does not, as stated, work with the Series rims - something for us not a problem as they all runs on Disco I steel ones anyway.
Will be very interest to see a post on the conversion with the Heystee kit !
My rear hubs are knackered and need replacing whatever I fit but the Heystee kit comes with new ones. I have the 6.5” 130 Defender rims already so they would be fine for the Zeus kit if I’ve read it correctly.
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I’m sure I know the answer to this but if I do it was a while ago and I’ve forgotten it...🤷♂️
Apart from the length of the casings and halfshafts, spring mounts etc what are the differences between the front and rear axles from a leafer and a coiler?
What would prevent the hub assembly from a coiler being bolted to a leaf sprung axle casing? Is the casing flange bolt pattern different?
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When I tot everything up for both kits including the rear hubs that I need to replace, the Heystee kit comes out around £150 more expensive than the Zeus one. The other benefits of the Heystee kit are vented front discs and more wheel options so although the Zeus kit is good, I think I would still lean towards the Heystee one but whichever is used it’s a lot of money.
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40 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Knowing you, it will be done tidily, with a bit of a taper, so it looks factory.
Of course...👍
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13 hours ago, Gazzar said:
If you had nothing to lose, you could try cutting the bottom leaf just after the clamp, in normal use it would do nothing, as it wouldn't touch the other leaves. Only in a heavy load situation would it act as an extra spring.
Be easier than uncurling the clamp.
Oh, and grease the contact area between the top and middle leafs.
Yes, I agree that’s probably the better route to go down and will keep everything standard. If it doesn’t work or ride well then I’ll replace with Heystee ones when they are next available.
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I really miss that Rangy but it’s good to see it being used to bring life to another vehicle 👍
With that old Disco chassis out of the way you’ll have a lot more space to crack on now.
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38 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Is there a catalogue with pictures of pads?
Not on the Zeus website no.
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Hoping for some advice from people with spring manufacturing knowledge.My plan was to buy a new set of parabolic springs off Heystee, now parabolicsuspension.com, but at the moment Paul doesn’t have any in stock and will only be making a batch to order in future. The next one could be some months away. Furthermore, he tells me that the load level A rear 2 leaf springs that are intended for truck cab and soft top configurations and, where no significant load carrying or towing capability is required (as in my case), will no longer be made.
He did mention that as an alternative, the helper spring can be removed from the Load level B (medium duty) springs.
Now, as it happens I already have a set of parabolics that I have just removed but these come with the three leaf rears and are just too harsh and uncomfortable over potholes and bumps. A decent set of shocks would help here but I also think that it would benefit from reduced spring poundage too. I don’t know the brand of these springs but I’m guessing they’re from one of the UK manufacturers as I’ve seen similar ones advertised.
My question is this, is the lower leaf in the photo the helper leaf and can anyone foresee any issues if I was to remove it and convert it to a two leaf spring?
One obvious thing is the clamp that is fixed to the bottom leaf and is large enough to accommodate the three leaves. If I was to replicate the clamp used in the two leaf spring on the fronts then can I drill the leaf and fit them to what would then become the lower leaf? If so, how are these clamps fitted as it looks like some sort or round head rivet from what I can see? Will they just knock out and then hammer back into a new hole or is there more to the design than that?
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4 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
None of them are totally off the shelf: Heystee has a bespoke hub and swivel to then take standard parts.
Yes definitely but I was thinking more about the wear and tear items like the pads and discs rather than the one offs like these and the Zeus calliper bracket.
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13 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Drums are okay for normal driving, it's the repeated braking that they fall down on, mountains etc.
In some circumstances they are better than disks, as they are almost sealed, mud is less of an issue.
The reason that LR restricted the power of the V8 in the stage one was that the drums suffered fade after repeated testing in Australia.
Yeah, I think if you’re sticking a V8 lump in a Series vehicle then you definitely shouldn’t rely on the standard 2.25 brakes.
Ask Zeus what the pads are from?
Of course, sorry I misunderstood, I thought you’d already had to replace yours. I’ve sent them an email 👍
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25 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
I've the Zeus kit, it's well built, and uses standard pads. The next build will be the heystee kit, as this will allow me to fit standard series rims.
Standard pads off any particular vehicle?
The other benefit of the Heystee kit is that you can fit vented discs but I suppose even a solid disc is overall better than drums.
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22 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Have to be honest, I wouldn't be looking at cost cutting when it comes to brakes......
At least the Zeus stuff is fairly well tested, this doesn't have that same reassurance...
No me neither and I’m inclined towards the Heystee kit as it looks like the Zeus kit only comes with their own disc and calliper compared to Heystee who use standard Defender parts.
I’m reluctant to be dependent on one supplier for their bespoke service components such as discs and pads.If the rest of the Zeus kit was standard bits too then you’d just be looking at buying the calliper mounting bracket off them which would be much more cost effective and I suspect those other parts are off the shelf from somewhere but they don’t wish to advertise it.
By the way, I’m told that the Heystee business has been taken over now by Van den Burg Engineering who are still making the disc conversion kits but that Paul has now set up as Parabolicsuspension.com and is still continuing to make his parabolic springs.
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Came across this whilst researching disc brake conversions.
Does anyone have any experience of it?
I can see that it looks like a copy of the Zeus kit.
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I think I might have sussed it as, from what I can read on Google, the last number, in this case LKJ500020, superseded the previous one ERR7306.
I think, as they all look the same.
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9 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
It's the last digits of the VIN for the vehicle - basically the sequential build number.
Ok cheers. Now, as I only have the engine here is there a way I can find out which one is for mine?
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Is the number that follows the V in brackets the engine number? I’m trying to find the right gaskets for my engine and there’s a few options.
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9 hours ago, discomikey said:
Any time. Happy to help
Add a set of 3” spacers and you have a ready made kit to sell for the P38 conversion 😉
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Don’t get me wrong, they said they’d do it but won’t warranty the coating on the inside.
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I’ve contacted two galvanising companies to get quotes for doing my chassis and both have come back saying they wouldn’t want to galvanise over existing rust or paint.
Fair enough as I can get the exterior blasted but there’s also surface rust and paint internally that can’t be removed even by their acid dips.
There doesn’t seem much point in galvanising if it doesn’t stick to the inside which is the area I most want to have protected. Does anyone know of an alternative or do I just paint the outside and fill it with wax oil?
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44 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
ISTR the front cover / ancillaries are different on the Disco due to engine bay space... also the P38 clutch is a thing all of its own.
I have the later one on the Thor and I want to replace all the various gaskets, seals and O rings etc. The sump gasket for instance is rubber but I don’t think there’s a problem getting them.
Leaf and coil sprung axle differences
in Series Forum
Posted
Is the casing cast iron and if so how easy is it to weld the steel flange to it? I wouldn’t be doing that myself but just so I know what to expect from the welder.