Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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6 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Erm, I believe the wheels need to be up to dealing with the maximum gvw, whether or is loaded to that or not, is not the point, it makes it illegal.... (as I understand it).
You do realise that I’m going to have to go outside to the garage to look at the rims now don’t you? 🤔
Otherwise there will be no sleep tonight..😳
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1 minute ago, western said:
there's a post about extra light switches fot the Td5 centre console, IIRC it's in this forum & linked from the Tech Archive index, electrical section.
find the Pink dim dip relay, pull it out & join the 2 blue/red trace wires with a jump lead, that will givenormal front headlights & no dim dip which is no longer a lighting requirement.
Yep, found that thread in the tech archive thanks, exactly what I needed.
Will check out the relay tomorrow and see if I can get these lights working again.
WRT the wheel rims, I only use the 110 for work commute and tootling about so it will never be loaded to capacity or do any towing. If they are okay for the Rangy then they’ll be fine for the 110 as the use will be the same. Interesting point to bear in mind though.
Guy in the tyre place put 36 psi all round in the tyres yesterday. Seems a bit high for me and the steering now feels less positive than before, might try airing them down a bit to around 28/30 and see how it feels.
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I’m also going to use a standard push button front fog light switch that sits in the top of the dash panel to switch on a rear LED work lamp that the P.O. fitted using a toggle switch. Is there a way to find out what pins light the telltale lamp in the switch and which one goes to the switch illumination? I’ve found the on off contact pins.
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Just now, western said:
heater cable should be a one strand type not multistrand because it can kink as per both photo's.
Should be but that’s the correct cable and cost me £52 would you believe! It’s got a crimped eye on each end so cannot be adjusted the way the hot/cold cable can and is a fixed length so the sheathed sits in the same position at each end. That second photo shows the heater fan switch in the ‘Fast’ position (down) which is governed by the electrical connections on the slide mechanism, the cable just opens up the flap to allow air through. So although it looks wrong it’s actually correct but as mentioned before, a poor design with respect to the cable entry angles.
I’m thinking as both headlights are affected, this relay or resistor which is common to both sides may need further investigation tomorrow but I’ll try and check whatever earths I can find.
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9 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
If you fit the cable clip in the correct position you will find that it lines up fine - compare your before and after photos.
Dim headlights is usually due to the carp wiring, a relay modification is a good way to resolve this issue. I used a Landreizger loom but you can make your own fairly simply too.
I’ve just been on google and can see there’s quite a bit of info relating to a dimming function on the headlight circuit. Something to do with a resistor under the wing and a pink relay behind the dash. Will try to find more info but if the relay was faulty and not switching to full power then I suppose this could explain the dim lights I have as both are equal.
You’re correct about the cable position. I fitted it correctly and it now works fine but even so the angle at which the inner cable enters the outer sheath when on fast speed setting is just poor design. The positions of the clips are set and cannot be adjusted but ideally the retaining clip should be slightly angled towards the mechanism to give a straighter line into the sheath.
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Busy old day today catching up with some jobs that needed doing after having run around in the TD5 for a couple of weeks since buying it.
First job was to get a set of 265/75s onto the rims I had on the RRC, in place of the standard steels and 7.50s. Will need to adjust the steering stops slightly as the new tyes a catching slightly on the aides arms on full lock.
Checked the handbrake again and found the lower part of the bracket quite bent. Ordered a second hand one off the Bay so that should sort that one out.
Next job was to fit the clutch assist spring kit which although a PITA to do was quite straightforward and has made a big difference.
Tried my new cheapo steering wheel puller to get the wheel off the column. I can confirm that they are not suitable for the standard wheel without the removable centre pad so save your pennies. A couple of sharp smacks to the top of the column with the hammer whilst I applied pressure from below with my knees and off it popped. I now know I definitely have the 48 spline column for when I swap to a smaller wheel.
Another task was to check the wiper motor and gearbox whilst I had the dash stripped to fit the loom for the new heated screen. It had a loud clunk on each swipe so I suspected some sheared teeth on the gear. Turns out it was an e-clip that was missing from the gear wheel where the drive arm connects to it so a quick trip to the local motor factors and all was sorted along with a clean and regrease.
Next job was to fit the new heater control cable having found the original one to be kinked and not allowing the air to flow through to the cabin.
Simple enough to do whilst the dash was in bits. You can see where the old cable inner was kinked thus preventing the air flap to open properly.
New cable fitted but even so the angle on the 2nd speed is still not great. Poor design Landrover, must do better.
Whilst fitting the screen loom I noticed that some of the blanks in the dash had existing wiring to them although they are unused. Could do with a wiring diagram to check what they are intended for.
On the subject of wiring, as a final job for the day, I tried to update the headlight bulbs as they are both quite dim even though the lenses are new Wipac clear units with new halogen bulbs. Swapped the passenger one first and then switched the headlights on expecting to be able to take a photo showing the improvement between the two lamps. Unfortunately there was no change and the new lamp was just as dim as the one it replaced. A quick check behind the headlight revealed years of accumulated Irish peat that had solidified itself behind the front panel and in the process entombed the various additional loom plugs that I presume Landrover included for things like front fog lights or driving lights which on my model are unused.
To say the plugs and wiring were buried in the stuff is an understatement and so I’m wondering if the problem with the dim headlights is related to this or a poor earth that is common to both lights? I’ve cleaned all the crud out now and doused the plugs with WD40 overnight but in the meantime I thought I would ask if anyone can tell me or point me towards a diagram that will show me where the earth points are located for the front lights. Side lights and indicators have been replaced with LED units and seem to be working ok. To be honest, with one side being clean and dry I would have expected that light to be working correctly with maybe the other one affected by the wiring issue.
Could the fitting of LED sidelights affect the function of the halogen headlights?
Still have the new rear prop shaft to fit and the steering locks to adjust but need to get these lights sorted first so any help is appreciated.
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I have a similar problem on my TD5. Had a look the other day and the rear diff seems ok. The P.O. had already replaced the halfshafts and flanges but the rear prop also looks a bit dry and has some sideways play in the splines of the sliding section. I’ve ordered a new one to at least eliminate that. Other causes can be worn suspension bushes so it’s overalls on time and go for a trip down under to check everything.
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On 8/17/2018 at 8:41 PM, western said:
Td5 is R380/LT230 should be stabdard high range 1.410:1
On the assumption that I have the standard 1.410:1 ratios, what’s the best way to up the gearing as I can pull away in 5th gear quite comfortably from 35mph? 90 mph is easily achieved on a private road but a tad noisy.....
Tyres will be 265s so no great increase in diameter from the 7.50s. Is it a case of fitting a higher greater TX box?
Edit: Found the answer...https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/lt230-ratio-changes/1-222-gear-set.html
Is it easy enough to remove the transfer box or can the gears be changed in situ?
2nd Edit: I’ll take it to Ashcrofts and let them do it 👌
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3 hours ago, western said:
Try cable part -- JFF000140
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-JFF000140
the ebay steering wheel puller is good, I bought one ages ago. pull the centre pad off, its only a press on fit, then there are 2 small threaded holes for the puller bolts & the big bolts acts on the column end, undo the nut but leave it at end of the column thread, then the wheel when it comes loose won't smack you in the face.
Cheers, will get a puller ordered. Ordered the cable too -£52! 😳
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17 hours ago, western said:
bowden cable from left heater slider is available seperately its part number is AAP876.
handbrake lever does have a bias to the left but can be persuaded with a good shove to move to the right a bit,
the centre of my handbrake lever is approx 21 inches from the end of the seatbox nearest the drivers door.
as for the front end of the roof, looks like its had a bad knock at sometime, doesn't usually pull the spotwelds, a rivetted repair might work 7 ensureis done with wet sealant asits pulled back in to place.
I’m not sure that cable is the correct one for my heater. At the heater end where it connects to the lever arm there is a small fitted eye lug that slides on to a post and is secured in place by a spring washer. Hopefully the photo shows it up but it seems that the length is fixed and can not be adjusted as the other cables can on the top of the heater box. Struggling to find it even in the parts book.
I also think I’m going to need a puller to remove my steering wheel to check the spline numbers. I’ve seen some on EBay but I’m wondering if anyone has used them on the standard defender wheel as it’s foam padded and I’m not sure the puller arms will not dig in to the back of the wheel and damage it. Anyone tried the ones for around a tenner?
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6 minutes ago, BogMonster said:
I don't really want to fit a work light type but it might come to that.
Thanks - any other info from others?
Mine has a Wipac fitted.
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Pretty sure mine will be the 48 spline type B so looking for a smaller wheel diameter that still works with the column switches and need to check the diameter of the Puma wheel.
Found the problem with the heater blower, the cable leading from the speed switch to the heater is kinked at the back of the binnacle and needs to be renewed. I can only see th switch and cable assembly complete for around £80 on EBay so need to look further afield to see if the cable can be bought separately. If I move the flap by hand at the housing the airflow is fine.
Next query to add to all the others is the position of the handbrake. Wife Is complaining 🙄 that she needs to bend quite far to get to it and I must admit it does seem further away from the drivers seat than I remember but here is a photo. It does ‘lean’ to the left a fair bit rather than point straight up but again I’m not sure if that is how it was originally or if it’s been bent at some point.
Next one is the roof skin around the windscreen which seems to have lifted where it is spot welded to the frame. Can this just be pop riveted back into place and is it a common failure point and source of leaks?
Ignore the perished screen seal as a new one will be fitted next week along with a heated screen to replace the standard one.
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Next question, will the later Puma steering wheel swap with my original and have the indicator cancelling lug in the correct position?
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1 hour ago, Early90 said:
Rev limiter.......boost limiter kicking in because your wastegate is sticking. Probably.
Cheers, can you elaborate on that as it’s the first I’ve heard of that sort of issue? What would cause the sticking? I’m not sure if the wastegate was adjusted as part of the egr removal/mapping.
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Out of stock at the moment but definitely on the list. Might fit the puma doorcards too so everything matches.
Some more questions.
What gearbox/transfer box combo should it have? It has the long gearstick so is that an LT77 with the 230 transfer box? Seems quite undergeared making first almost useless on the road so what is the tried and tested route for this? High ratio transfer gears as per the Ashcroft Series conversion or a different transfer box/diffs all together? Will the BW transfer box fit in place of the existing one? Tyres will be 265/75 and currently on 7.50 radials.
Clutch is very heavy so does the torsion spring kit that is sold actually work to lighten it? Towards the end of the pedal travel it becomes juddery as if something is binding. My first thoughts are either the master or slave cylinders (assuming it has them, will check in the manual) or maybe the linkage.
Heater is carp with no noticeable airflow even on the high setting although the motor can be heard running at both speeds.
Brakes are ‘adequate’ at best so an overhaul or upgrade is on the cards. Not having driven one before are the Defender brakes usually quite sharp or more like a Series?
Headlights are also rubbish so looking at an LED conversion, any recommendations or warnings to stay clear?
The P.O. removed the cat as part of an engine upgrade and mapping using an Alisport intercooler, EGR removal and centre box removal. My understanding has always been that if the vehicle was built with a cat then it should always have one fitted for the MOT. Anyone know different?
Is the TD5 fitted with a rev limiter? When pushed the engine starts to falter until I ease off the throttle which I assume is a limiter but just want to check in case there’s something else I should be looking at like fuel starvation. After a good run I’ve noticed that as the revs drop say when coming off a motorway slip road and slowing down, the engine idles erratically for a few seconds before the idle settles down and becomes steady. The engine has been mapped by a chap local to the P.O. but quite conservatively by all accounts to produce somewhere around the 160bhp mark. There’s no noticeable smoke on hard acceleration which seems to be a good thing although suggesting that more performance may be available with a different map which might be needed if I increase the gearing.
Theres also a clunk from the rear when taking up drive so prop and diff need to be checked. Suspension seems to be pretty tight as does the steering but I can see it won’t be long before I develop the dreaded Landrover elbow due to the diameter of the steering wheel so maybe a smaller alternative will be on the cards although I do like the originality.
Finally, how easy is it to retrofit the heated screen, central locking and electric windows? Mine is the base model so not sure if the loom is different to other models or the same with certain plugs left disconnected or blanked.
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Hi all
I’ve just taken delivery of a 2004 110 TD5 that has the usual rotten door bottom on the drivers side. Rather than replace with another similar one I was wondering if the later improved Puma door was a straight swap?
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I thought I’d close out this thread with a brief update.
The original plan was to fit a 6 cylinder engine into the Series 3 but a mismatch between the auto crank shaft and the flywheel meant that some serious engineering would have been required to get everything put together properly and I would have ended up with some non standard key components in the drive train which isn’t what I wanted.
So thoughts then turned to using the V8 engine and auto box out of my Softdash which would have been a great project to do and I am convinced I could have made to fit within the available space. The Softdash itself is a great original vehicle but it does need bodywork doing to it which is beyond my capabilities to do properly. Throw in the fact that the Rangy is my daily and I need a vehicle to use for work, then taking it off the road for several months to have the work done just wasn’t an option. Using it as a donor vehicle though for the Series would have reduced the time required but still left me without a vehicle for a few months whilst the Series was built up on a new chassis. Whichever way I looked at it either option would require time to complete the work which I just don’t have.
In the end I have had to concede that having a reliable daily driver for work must be the priority and that projects must take second place however appealing they may be to do. I have looked at other Softdash rangys with a view to keeping mine as a parts car for the future but although there’s some nice ones out there most still need or will need work doing to them in the not too far off future, despite how their owners like to describe them in their adverts 🙄. There didn’t seem to be much point in spending decent money just to end up back at square one in a few years.
My descision then has been to purchase a vehicle that will become my new daily taking into account the motorway miles I do but still allowing me the opportunity to maintain it myself and keeping a Landrover in the family.
It’s a 2004 TD5 110 van that I found in Northern Ireland after trawling around the internet for the last few weeks. It’s all original and been well maintained by the P.O. who has also added some upgrades and had the engine mapped. I’ve some plans for it myself but want to run about in it for now and get to know it better first before doing anything to it.
The Softdash will be sold as soon as I can put an advert together (along with my Capri) but the Series will stay as a fun car to be restored over time and kept as original. Appreciate all the advice and support that has been given whilst I pondered my way through this. When I get round to doing the build on the Series, I’ll start a new thread in the members vehicles section.
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That would be great Filip, cheers. Will the manual PM or do you need an email?
No specific concerns as yet but have past experience of the self levelling issue. I’m wondering if it would be possible to leave the 5 pin relay in place but fit a switch in line with the wire feed to the terminal that provides what I believe is a permenant feed to the system?
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7 hours ago, Escape said:
I'm the one who posted about replacing the timer with a standard 4-pin relay on RangeRovers.net. 😉
I can confirm it will work on the Classic as well. The timer module should be located under the right hand seat, along with the ECU and other relays for the EAS. You could also use the disable switch at the back of the seat, that should prevent leveling but the ECU will still wake up every 6 hours.
Greetz,
Filip
Cheers Filip, that’s much appreciated. I’ll know by the weekend if my relationship with EAS is going to be rekindled or not...😉
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Sounds like an electrical issue, maybe when the brake pedal is pressed a short circuit is created on the feed to the coil or something else. Check around the pedal under the dash for any wiring that could be getting trapped or touching earth when the pedal moves.
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Can anyone tell me where the delay timer relay that causes the air suspension to self level overnight is located on a 94 soft dash? I have seen some relays at the side of the passenger seat so wondering if it might be one of them?
Ive read that changing this 5 pin relay for a 4 pin one will disable the self levelling function when the vehicle is parked on uneven ground? Anyone know for sure if this works?
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My point was that if say for instance you have the cylinder off a SWB drum but the drum off a LWB will the travel on a single pedal stroke of the SWB piston be enough to engage the shoe with the drum? I’m almost certain the cylinder and drum diameter are matched as is the master cylinder so maybe check to see if what you have is all compatible with each other irrespective of the front discs.
Others with more knowledge than me will have better information but it was just to carry out a sanity check of what you have fitted to eliminate a mismatch from the issue you are having.
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2 hours ago, xychix said:
The promised picture of the 'nails' in my rear brake setup....
maybe a bush trick to make a 10" slave work in a 11" drum..... ? god knows...
I’d be taking those nails out sharpish if you’ve not already done so, that’s a bodge at best. The slave cylinder will need to match the drum diameter to allow the piston to move the shoe out far enough to make contact with the drum. If the shoes are correctly adjusted against the drum and the cylinder bled to remove air then the fluid displacement from the master cylinder should be enough to move the piston the required distance without the need for a second application of the pedal. Can you check visually with the drum removed and someone pressing the pedal gently?
Without reading back through the entire thread, maybe you’ve already rectified and checked these things so apologies if you have. I’m not sure but I’m sure I’ve heard that the 10”SWB cylinders are smaller than the 11” LWB cylinders so if so, is there a chance the parts have been mixed? At least you know the problem is on the rears for sure 👍
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1 minute ago, xychix said:
yes, a zeus kit as in 1 order, new.
Try clamping the rear flexi hose gently and protect the rubber to prevent damage. This will isolate the fronts from the rears and you can see if pedal travel has improved or not, pointing you towards the problem.
TD5 110
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Didn’t take long..
There are only two markings on the rims:
Unless those letters refer to a weight limit then I’m not sure how anyone can determine if they are suitable for the vehicle or not?
Just noticed Paddocks selling these wheels, or copies of them, to suit both Rangys, Discos and Defenders so should be ok.