Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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Is there any way to identify a stage 1axle over a standard one without disassembly to look at the CV joints?
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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
It's an analogue device, bi metallic strip.
Multi metres struggle to cope.
I will check the earth, it earths against the instrument casing, so I'll check all of that.
Thanks.
Old Fords have the same issue. One fix is to run a separate earth from the binnacle to a known good earth point.
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1 hour ago, paintman said:
If you want to take the gear & transfer box off from underneath look in the RRC factory manuals & make up the bracket. Together they are big, heavy & unbalanced. (They're heavy & awkward separately so if you just want to remove a transfer box I'd suggest also making the special tool as it makes it a doddle)
You can leave the TC on the gearbox, you just need to undo the 4 bolts that hold it to the drive plate - accessed by removing the cover plate at the bottom front face of the gearbox & working through the circular holes you can see.
The TC is pushed onto the gearbox input shaft & will quite happily slide off & fall on the floor whilst you are removing the gearbox. The manuals show putting it back on with the box horizontal. Whilst it works, it's an utter PITA as you are trying to get several sets of splines to line up & it's b*&&^% heavy! I suggest you remove the circular plate at the bottom of the bell housing & make up a 'T' shaped piece of steel with the long part of the T long enough to press on the front face of the TC & holes in the crosspiece of the T suitable to use a couple of the bolts that were in the circular plate. 2mm steel as thinner may well bend & the TC will then fall on the floor.......
If the TC does come off then it must be seated correctly on the gearbox as measured from a straightedge laid across the bellhousing mouth down to the front of any of the 4 bosses on the TC. If not, it may all bolt back together but you will split the box pump. No pump=no pressure=no drive & you get to take it all off again to fit a new pump.
ETA If you leave the box in situ & just remove the engine I'd also suggest the T tool to ensure the TC doesn't fall off!
Thanks for the detailed reply and heads up about the TC. The engine and box will be going in my S3 🤞 and the Rangy shell and interior sold for parts so if possible I’d like to keep both together until I have the chance to trial fit them to the S3 chassis.
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11 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
As pointed out to me by Fridge, the Softdash ECU may well be integrated into the rest of the vehicle loom, and not come out by itself.
Possibly. It might be a case of painstakingly unwrapping the loom to split the ECU wiring out if that’s the case. The manual doesn’t indicate either way so I’ll have a look see under the bonnet later to see if there’s anything obvious.
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I was always taught a rule of thumb that if an engine ‘cuts out’ it’s usually an ignition problem but if it starts to fail and then gradually dies then it’s fuel related. It is just a rule of thumb though.
From what you describe it’s sounding like an ignition/electrical problem. After it cuts out can you restart it again immediately and how does the starter motor sound when you crank it over? It could be good to at least eliminate a battery drain/ poor earth as part of the problem as you seem to have checked all the basic possibilities.
Have you taken any electrical readings during the fault tracing to date? Was the fuel solenoid replaced with the carb?
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One more question (before the next one 😁) - is it possible to keep the engine loom connected to the engine and disconnect it from the inside at the ecu plug removing it with the engine?
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5 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Splitting them is very, very easy, do it and then you have less chance of killing yourself.
Is it just a case of unbolting the TC off the back plate? I want to keep the TC in place and not disturb it.
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It’s a Softdash 3.9.
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Is it possible to remove the engine and gearbox out of a V8 auto without splitting them? Could the front panel/rad etc be removed to take them out through the gap if the ancillaries were removed first?
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Do you reckon you’d be able to fit that rad under the panel if you didn’t have the inter cooler to fit next to it or the steering relay?
Thinking ahead to when I fit the V8 and heard of the tdi rads being used before.
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10 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:
Wow, some of the bits i ordered the other day have started to roll in, new 300tdi rad and a pair of new galv bulkhead support brackets
It’ll be finished this weekend then....?😉
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Discovered that Heystee do a two leaf rear for SWB light load applications which I hadn’t realised so will probably take that route rather than split existing springs.
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
They need replacing anyways, the top leaf is kinked......
No, they’re all like that, seems to be the way they’re made.
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I have these unknown make of parabolics fitted to the vehicle but the rear, being just the tub with hardly any weight, is quite firm and unforgiving over bumps. I’ve read some threads where the third leaf has been removed to make the suspension more compliant and wondered if I can achieve this by taking out the bottom leaf? If I do, will I need to fit some sort of retainer to keep the remaining two leaves in line like the one already fitted to the bottom leaf in the picture?
Failing that, who supplies soft springs? I won’t be towing or carrying weight.
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On 06/05/2018 at 8:56 AM, xychix said:
Just lifted my landy 'cold' and the rear wheels turn freely as they should. Once I brake a bit (engine not running but I've got an UP28 hella vacuum pump so I do have pressure) the car breaks as expected. After releasing the pedal the rear brakes bind (despite adjusting the shoes).
Any hints? replacing the springs that pull back the shoes (despite them being good before conversion?) fitting a (non LR) adjustable break pressure separator?
How easy was the UP28 to fit? Thinking of getting an electric vacuum pump for my Capri.
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Had a quick look under the Rangy earlier to see what the gearbox mounting arrangements were.
Just two bolt on mounts to the chassis it seems. Presumably I would need to drill and tube the Series chassis to allow them to be undone and the box to be dropped which I’m not sure I could do if I was to weld the mounts to the chassis? How does it work with the R380 and LT 77 conversions?
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9 hours ago, Snagger said:
I'm not knocking the X-brake, but the standard brake is very effective if you add the longitudinal tie-rod between the bell housing and gear box cross member to stop the brake lever pulling the transmission and engine forward on application - it's better fr the mountings and ensures that the brake actuator rod motion isn't lost in the forward motion of the brake backplate. Simpler and cheaper than the X-brake...
Interesting, I checked underneath my Rangy and I have a tie bar running from the back of the BW TB to the bell housing. Presumably this performs in a similar way?
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Loving the quality and detail of the work on this build 👍
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Well I managed to get some approximate measurements of the ZF and it looks at least like it should fit within the existing tunnel surround as the majority of the bell housing will be in the engine bay especially where the bell housing is widest. After the tapered bell housing the box itself is relatively tubular but height may be a factor. Again I won’t know for certain until I have the parts physically sat in front of me and I do anticipate there might be some adjustment required but in general it looks like it should work.
With the engine forward, there is still clearance between the V8 sump and the front axle but some shimming may be required along with the usual oil filter repositioning.
I also think it will be possible to extend the transfer lever rod to allow the lever to sit further forward in the tunnel away from the seat box, possibly where the existing gear lever is located. Some scalloping of crossmembers may or may not be needed for the prop or maybe the bolt on RRC gearbox crossmember could be used, who knows. I also have the thinner RRC propshaft here so that may help with clearances.
If I can get shut of the steering relay then I might be able to get a larger rad across the top of the front crossmember with some modification to the sides of the front panel.
I should really rename the thread SWB Auto shouldn’t I? 🤨
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3 hours ago, Snagger said:
I think it's more a question of whether that kit fits you credit card limit!
Expensive yes, but I’d rather not take chances with brakes.
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In case it’s of interest to anyone else, Heystee tell me their front disc brake kit will fit a Stage 1 axle.
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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
What Bowie said - RRC in-tank pump, for front tanks you may need to shorten it but it's easily done. They drop straight in to a lot of 110/130/RRC rear tanks.
Not sure if I’m misunderstanding something here but how does the RRC pump fit into the underseat tank of the SWB? In place of the sender?
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
What Bowie said - RRC in-tank pump, for front tanks you may need to shorten it but it's easily done. They drop straight in to a lot of 110/130/RRC rear tanks.
Do I need to drill a hole for it in the top of the tank?
Rear drum brake binding after front disc conversion
in Series Forum
Posted
Are the front calipers matched to the Zeus discs i.e. solid rather than vented?