Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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Thanks for the replies. I went back and checked over everything that I’d done and made sure all the valves were in the correct position which they are. I haven’t checked the filter on the regulator as the regulator itself looks to have been replaced quite recently by the PO when he did the EGR removal etc.
I did notice that the copper washers that came with the new filter housing seem to be a bit oversized and weren’t sat completely central to the four brass fittings so I slackened the fittings off and tried to re-centre the washers to give a better seal. Then I did a couple of purge cycles and it seems to be a bit better at starting now although a small amount of air can still be heard as the pump primes up. Nothing like as bad as it was though.
I suppose a loose injector securing bolt might allow some air in but before I start looking into that, I’ll see how it runs for a few days and report back.
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I wonder how I’d get on with one of those given that I have the ET seatbelt bar fitted?
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Bit more help needed with this problem please.
New VDO pump and filter head have now been fitted. However, I can still hear the air in the pump and even after a drive the engine is struggling to start straight away. Whilst driving I can hear the pump noise due to air in the system and so I am wondering if I should be looking elsewhere for this problem?
I’ve checked all the pipe connections etc and all seem in good condition and there are no apparent leaks. I did pull the top cover off the engine yesterday to check under there and everything is dry but it seems that air is getting in rather than fuel getting out.
The injector seals were recently replaced and it seems like the starting problem has only manifested itself after that although the pump failure was probably just a coincidence. I didn’t replace the seals myself but got a garage to do it for me as I’d started to notice the engine taking longer to start and I’ve no reason to doubt that the work has been done but I do wonder if there’s something that may not have been properly tightened up during that process and which he has maybe overlooked?
If so are there any checks that I can do myself on the drive without the need to pull the injectors out? In other words, could something just need nipping up or am I best getting it back to him?
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I used the 110 master cylinder on my Capri when I upgraded the brakes. You have to use the Capri Sport adapter to plumb in the two front circuits and the rear brake pipe goes to the rear port of the M/c. It will only fit a Pinto servo and not the V6 2.8i one.
To be honest, I had heard many good things about this conversion along with the bigger fronts with four pots and rear disc conversion but I never got a half decent pedal out of it when I did it and everything was top quality and brand new. I have a whole setup sat here in the garage as I ended up taking it off and going back to tried and tested Princess four pots and standard 2.8i discs with rear drums. Best brakes I’ve had so far on the car.
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10 hours ago, Romahomepete said:
They are definitely available for an S1 (we have one) but I think the S2 variety is called a bikini roof.
Just had a look at the Allwheel trim site and they list a canvas truck cab.
Peter
I hadn’t seen those on the AWT site so thanks for pointing it out. They don’t look too bad at all 👍
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Has anyone ever come across a ‘truck cab’ version of a canvas roof or seen one made? My S3 SWB spends most of its life with no roof or door tops but a quick and simple canvas version of the truck cab would be handy to have. I’ve seen the bikini tops but I think it would be good to have the full back on to make it wind and waterproof.
Would it just be the case of removing the side panels of a standard canvas and relocating the back panel to just behind the first hoop in a similar way to the fume curtains were? Maybe adding in some rope hooks across the back of the seat bulkhead?
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Well I went to check the housing and remove the bleed valve but the housing bracket decided to part company with its mountings.
Rather than mess about I ordered a new one but whilst I had the time, I decided to strip the valve and see what all the fuss was about. Pulled the insert from the brass fitting and cut it open. Might help others in the future.
Looked a bit gunked up and there was no way I could blow through it.
Whipped the top off with a Stanley knife and revealed the gauze filter, totally blocked.
Fingers crossed the new housing sorts out the starting problem.
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Cheers, the filter has just been changed so I’ll check the housing.
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Cheers guys, is that the filter on the rear chassis rail?
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Driving home last week and the engine cut out suddenly without any warning. Up until then it had been running fine and just come back from a trip to the garage to get amongst other things, the injector seals replaced and fuel filter changed.
Nice man from the RAC diagnosed a failed fuel pump so I ordered a VDO one and fitted it. New seal and lock ring. After a bit of priming the engine started but I immediately noticed that the pump was quite noisy as it was running as if it was drawing air from somewhere. Checked the pump pipes which are all secure and in good nick so I’m wondering if there could be another source for air getting into the system? The pump will shut off once primed with the ignition on but with the engine running it kicks in again and the noise is very noticeable.
The car drives okay without any smoke etc but there’s obviously something not quite right so can anyone suggest a place to start looking beyond the connections for the pump, filter etc that were disturbed during the recent work? I can’t see any fuel leaks to point me towards the problem so maybe there’s something else I need to check.
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I’ve fitted Puma doors to mine but yes, the problem is still there. Obviously a stress point. I may get look to fabricate a strengthening plate for it but rather than weld it, try to bond it in some way before it gets any worse.
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I’m thinking of retrofitting some genuine second hand electric windows and central locking to my 2004 110 van. I can find the individual looms, solenoids, winders etc for each door but is there another loom(s) that connect the two doors to the power supplies and console switches or do people tend to make their own? Looking for as much plug and play as I can using genuine parts if possible.
Also, the door handle appears to be held to the door frame by two bolts inside the frame. These look pretty rusted up on mine so is there a trick to removing them without damaging the skin?
Finally, what’s the fix for this cracking on the Puma door frames?
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Other, more expensive option is the clutch servo. You’re right though the standard assist spring was a right pig to fit. Much cursing was done.
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I’ve come across this assist spring sold by LOF Clutches. Does anyone know if these are any better than the same springs sold elsewhere and give an even lighter pedal or just the same?
https://lofclutches.com/shop/td5/l-o-f-powerspring-pedal-assister-kit/?v=79cba1185463
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On 4/5/2019 at 5:24 PM, keeley75 said:
Have a look here, I'm still struggling to get them to sit right
Cheers, nice build btw 👍
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Has anyone fitted the aftermarket door trims for the Puma front doors? Any good?
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Mine was fitted when I bought it. It’s separate from the normal LED reversing lights and operated via a proper centre dash console switch to make it look standard. It’s very bright and sits quite flush with the roof so not easily knocked.
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23 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Your rims are designed for a tubed tyre as they don't have a bead retaining lip on the inside, so that might be an issue - as almost all tyres now are tubeless, and you shouldn't run tubes in tubeless tyre as it can rub through the tube. Depends a bit on your local vehicle laws and your personal attitude to risk
as almost any combination will work but may not be perfectly safe or legal.
There's some more info on all the many flavours of rim fitted to Land Rovers over the years here:
Agree with the comment about tubes. I have similar tubed rims and bought the tubes to go with them when I fitted new tyres. For a couple of quid extra it’s just not worth risking life and limb, yours or someone else’s.
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34 minutes ago, simonb said:
The retaining rod isn't M16 or 9/16", its only about 10mm in diameter and much smaller than a wheel stud.
Just tried mine and a propshaft nut fits the thread, which I believe makes it 3/8" UNF.
Correct it is much smaller and thanks for the size. Managed to find a place that supplies the extension nut so have ordered one. It’s about 30mm long so should do the trick. Cheers.
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41 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
A long M16 bolt with the head end cut down, ground flat and with a hole drilled through would do it.
Or alternatively cut it in half and put one of these in the middle, if you only need a little extra length:
Thanks, this was the sort of thing I was thinking about but need to try and identify the thread size on the rod first.
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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
Turn the wheel the other way around? Might fit.
No it’s at the closest point to the rim already. It’s because of the deeper dish so it looks like I will need to try and extend the rod somehow.
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Is there an ‘extended’ version of the threaded spare wheel retaining rod shown below? I have 6.5” rims fitted now and the rod length is now too short to pass through the wheel centre to the retaining bracket. I could probably find a way to extend this one but if there’s a genuine one available then that would be preferable.
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I have the same van body but a TD5. It has standard suspension and is surprisingly comfortable whilst maintaining good road holding manners so I would be wary of stiffening it up.
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Does a standard 110TD5 wiring loom have all the connections built in to allow heated seats and the individual seat looms to be retrofitted or do you need to do the complete wiring yourself?
It’s also been a good few years since I used a winch on a LR when the likes of Warn and Ramsey ruled the market. Now there’s a lot of cheaper units available but which are the ones to avoid and which are a good light/medium duty option?
Something like this for example caught my eye:
https://www.devon4x4.com/terrafirma-a12000-winch-with-synthetic-rope.html
as almost any combination will work but may not be perfectly safe or legal.
TD5 fuel problem
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
There’s definitely an issue still there. Having stood overnight I’m basically having to go through the purge cycle each time before I try to start it. Even when warm after a good run the air can still be heard in the pump although not as bad as when cold. I’m going to get it back in to the garage to get the injector seals rechecked as I’m stumped as to what else it could be now.