4b4

£8 ebay jobbie is sold out - anyone know of a similar simple piece of plug and play kit for us "electrical idiots"

Bu**er - now sold out - anyone know of something similar for us electrical greenhorns?

We're all still learning!

Ok Mike - Frozen Ear might be a bit of a laugh from a UK resident to you living in BC! I'll try giving it a bend/jack and let you know (Am considering a bit of foam draught excluder though)

Hi All - I've had new door hinges fitted to both doors (It's a 90) and, although the doors now close and lock well, the door/frame gap at the top (lock side) on the driver's side is big enough to get my finger in, and consequently lets a constant stream of cold air in straight down my right ear. The passenger door side doesn't have the problem, so I wondered if there's some adjustment I can make to reduce the gap, or whether I can get a better/thicker rubber door seal? I appreciate "it's a landrover" (and, yes, I've got a hat!) but I just find the constant draft is giving me earache & getting on my nerves.

Thanks Guys - thermostat check on the way!

Hi All - I've recently swapped my old 2½ petrol engine for a 300tdi and, due to the cold snap the other morning, I've noticed a drastic drop-off in the temperature coming out of the vents compared to how it used to be (pretty good actually) - now it's only luke warm. I've read Western's tech archive post about making sure the heater is adjusted properly, but I've also read numerous other posts about how cool the tdi's run, and wonder if it's possible to get a reasonable amount of heat out of the 300 through the heater box? I'm only asking, as I'd like to know before I start fiddling (although I appreciate the cables might have moved during the engine swap!)

Really liking the look of that fitting option, I'm looking at sourcing and fitting one of these since the conversion from petrol to diesel as the heat from the existing heater has diminished considerably. Keep us updated when you get back!

Don't know if it helps, but this is what I did for my 300tdi transplant - built an aluminium heatshield and used this

My new Richards is 3mm - bl**dy heavy though!

For people's information, the same is true of the replacement 90 tank I'm fitting. Thanks Steveb for the heads-up - at least I can fix the problem before putting it all back together!

Hi - I'm about ½ way through rebodying my 90 on a 300 spec galv chassis with a 300tdi disco unit, but am at decision time for an exhaust. It's going to be fabricated from stainless by a guy I know but I don't want a lifted/side exit system and my mate has suggested that we get an original 300 system and just "copy" that in S/S. My question, though, is - is there a "better" exhaust system I could use for the engine I'm using? Many thanks

Hi - sorry to hijack slightly, but does anyone know whether Tim from the difflock forum is still supplying the coolant loss sensor? - as I'm just fitting a 300tdi and it seems a worthwhile insurance plan Many thanks

I'm in the process of getting a new rolling chassis sorted (Galv with Disco axles, 300tdi and short 380 gearbox) and the intention is to lift the body off the existing and onto the new chassis. At some point however, most of the bodywork is going to need some serious work and I'm starting various lists of bits needed. My question is, does any company anywhere manufacture the various body cappings in aluminium, or would this affect the structural strength of the body itself? I appreciate that they are available in Galv'd steel, but would love to avoid the electrolytic corrosion I've currently got on most body panels.

Thanks Aragorn - that's great info I've got a friend of a friend who regularly ships "large" items (Volume wise) through his business so I can probably get it sorted through him - I was just concerned about the weight! 4b4

Hi Guys Does anyone know the rough weight of a (flat) roof and hardtop sides (separated) as I'm trying to arrange a courier for said items I purchased on e-bay. Any information gratefully received

Sorry! - its an '85 90CSW - the existing roof has alpines and a full lining, and I'm changing to a "hardtop" roof I picked up on Flea-bay (Didn't see the point in changing the sides as well) Thanks western

A further question on roof seals - I'm changing my roof (temporarily) so that I can cut a hole in the "new" one to fit a lid. How many seals are there around the whole roof? I assume there is the windscreen one, one for each side plus a rear making four in total? - Or do the side ones meet over the back door making only three in total? As the existing ones have been on for close to a quarter of a century, it looks like one continuous seal all round!

I've got 235/85 R16 Kumho KL71's on 16x7 black mods and they look great - (they fit out level with the wheel arches) When the tyres were fitted to the rims, they looked HUGE off the vehicle, but fit real nice

Aha! been looking for a reply to this problem - my "felts" are so knackered they look like slimy worms hanging out of the surrounds My question therefore is - is it worth fiddling around trying to replace them or do I just run with the "Silicon Them Shut" group?

Thanks - tyre wear isn't a problem - I've a D3 for "normal" use plus the bosses td4, so the MT's are for the FUNTIME 90 and I reckon I'll only be doing 2-3K miles a year.

Cheers Drakes I was considering the 265/75s as opposed to the 235/85s - do you know whether you need 8 inch rims with the 265s?

Hi - I'm changing the wheels & tyres on my 90 to 235/85 R16's (the 205's look pathetic) and wondered if anyone has any experience of the Kumho KL 71 MT's? I've had BFG's (AT's) before and know how good they are so it's choice between the Kumhos or BFG MT's Any thoughts?