doezel

The red light is just a matter of putting 12V on pin 6. With my new engine I will use that light as a "Check Engine Light" which I can switch on when an undesired situation appears. But that's something I can do with the Megasquirt installed. Or do you mean something else?

Ah yes! I meant indeed that I was happy that the correct anticipated amount of distance appeared on the display. The extra kilometer was already expected. I am now checking to see if I can get the runup-circuit going again. edit: Succes! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNDoYsFZON4 I mixed up Pin 1 & 2 of the pink connector....

I think I found something; The first succesful attempt I had in reading the chip gave me this (on another programmer device, an SP200, with this one I wasn't able to write anything back to the chip) But when I change that to 16-bit I get this: (and that looks a bit more familiar) So probably it's just the EZP2019 software that's mixing things up.....

This is the relevant path; you want the complete VisualStudio Project? private void tbdesiredODO_changed(object sender, EventArgs e) { if (int.TryParse(tbDesiredODO.Text, out int desiredODO)) { int odoPart = desiredODO / 16; int hexPart = 0xffff - odoPart; List<int> hexArray = new List<int>(); for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++) hexArray.Add(hexPart); int remainder = (desiredODO - (odoPart * 16)) / 2; for (int i = 0; i < remainder; i++) hexArray--; tbHex.Text = ""; for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++) tbHex.Text += hexArray.ToString("X4") + " "; lblStoredODO.Text = ((odoPart * 16) + (remainder * 2)).ToString(); } else { tbHex.Text = "?"; lblStoredODO.Text = "?"; } }

@CwazyWabbit I think I found something, Looks like my reader has the MSB/LSB mixed up? Gonna dig into that a bit further... Edit: but now the needle isn't moving. Seems like something went wrong when I started to flash this chip, that might have mixed things up. Maybe I just type over the hex dump below of the working KMH speedometer and see what that does. Edit2: When used my algorithm to generate "666666" and then swapped every first and second byte (so instead of 5D3C 5D3C 5D3C 5D3C 5D3C 5D3D 5D3D 5D3D I typed 3C5D 3C5D 3C5D 3C5D 3C5D 3D5D 3D5D 3D5D ) I got 666667 on my display!!!

Hi! I now have a working programmer for the 93S46 chip.(an EZP2019 from my Chinese uncle Ali) Only issue I have now is this: I used the alghorithm written down by @MrKev. But for some reason it doen't work in kilometers. For example: ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff ffff shows 1.0KM, so that's good. MrKevs example of 197672 (CFBC CFBC CFBC CFBC CFBD CFBD CFBD CFBD ) shows 271105KM. (factor 1.3715 too much) When I program 255000 (C1BD C1BD C1BD C1BD C1BE C1BE C1BE C1BE ) my meter shows 267233KM. (factor 1,0480 too much) When I program 666666 (5D3C 5D3C 5D3C 5D3C 5D3C 5D3D 5D3D 5D3D ) my meter shows 801301KM. (factor 1,2020 too much) So it's not a straight miles to kilometers conversion issue. Any idea what I'm missing here?

It was just a trolley that was lying around. It looked something like this: https://discountoffice.nl/p/platform-2593

ah yes, There are (will be) 2 coil packs mounted on the back of the engine.

I'll give it a look; looks like a nice idea and I can drop the complete aircon/steering assist bracket. Flow and pressure should be equal? It is! And it should fit nicely next to the water-temp and fuel gauge instead of a regular revcounter. It will be an EDIS system, especially since there's no distributor on the later v8 engines. don't know that DCD is...

Hi Mr. @FridgeFreezer, do you have some more info on this? Has it been done before on a Defender?

Another little update: Since I received all sensors and actuators, I've added the wiring loom, connected the injectors, water temp sensor, and the crank position sensor. I placed the crank-pully on the axle and placed cyl-1 on Top-Dead-Center (while looking into the spark-plug hole) Then I marked TDC on the pully and placed the 36-1 gap on the timing wheel 5 teeth after TDC. now waiting for some small parts: exhaust manifold gasket and inbetween inlet manifold gasket.

Little update: added the valley gasket, lower inlet manifold, injectors, fuel rail, steering assist pump and flywheel. Next up: the very clean exhaust manifolds....

Yeah but then the engine would REALLY look out of balance. I think I’ll stick with the hydraulic one and somehow make space for the cooling hose. and I would need to make a Bracket with CAD design and that would take me at least 48hrs in true Binky fashion. only Binky thing to consider is adding a safe-t Device.

+1 for (wireless) carplay

I also installed the Puma forward facing seats in my 90. It's party shown in this video:

Nicely done! Wish I didn't need the steering-assist pump 🙂

Also thinking of the idea of removing the airco-bracket. But it's also a nice mount to place a 2nd alternator in the future. On the other side: With that bracket removed; it's a lot easier to route the cooling-hose from the thermostat house to the radiator. I have a running 90 right now. That's why I am completely building the engine on a stand so I can start it before I take the running car of the road to do the actual swap. (Say Hi! to Nige from me 🙂 ) As for monitoring; Since I'm using the MS3X, I have a Canbus. So this will be my monitoring-alert device and revcounter in my dash: (I want to make sure the temperature stays low and the afr won't go lean) https://www.bankspower.com/i-2695-banks-idash-1-8-supergauge-aftermarket-can-ecu-primary-gauge-for-aftermarket-ecus-can-bus.html#! And since my analog speedometer is quite wobbly; I will switch to a TD5 speedometer. I want to have it the same reading as my analog meter so I use this post:

Nice! You're not behind me but already in front of me since you got already a lot bolted on. As for the pulley; I started just 2mm outside of the 2 bolt holes, and then grounded it flat to the flange that was already there. Easy peasy! Did you remove the airco compressor mount?

I got hold of a 4.0 thor engine. Tophat liners are now in it, as well as a 4.6 crank and pistons. Also a kent h180 cam is fitted. now it’s assembly time. Engine will run on a ms3x sent to me by a well known forum member. as soon as I get the engine running I will start the actual swap into my 90.

The left side is the right side! I'm sure Koen110 agrees with me....

Thanks. Raptor dashes are also available in black 🙂 https://www.raptor-engineering.co.uk/product/defender-s111-double-din-console-dash/

There is indeed a metal cage in the mudstuff dash; but the radio is only connected to plastic. And you have to like the look of the raptor dash. I quite like it (and it matches with all the other raptor dashparts)...

I agree! In the mudstuff dash the screen is vertical; hard to see. (and rattles because of plastic) That's why I like the Raptor dash so much (below is my dash, I just have a pioneer headunit now) Carplay with Waze navigation is perfect!!!

I have a cheap set of 2-way speakers in the front. The tweeters are mounted on top of the dash (just like Puma Location). The subs are installed in the seatbases (facing forward). I've insulated and sound deadened the seatbases. The volume that's available for those speakers is awesome! No extra amplifiers or subs needed! Furthermore I've installed some MudStuff rear speaker panels with some fitting speakers) I have a double-din Raptor Dashboard with a Pioneer AVH-Z9200DAB radio. I've filtered out the bass to the rear speakers because that's useless with the limited space that's in the Mudstuff panels; that would just rattle. pretty happy with that, even at 120km/h I can enjoy my music.

soooooohhhhh.... I forgot to check the runup of kilometers on my odometer... now it shows 20.000km too much 🙂 So i ordered an usb-programmer and a suitable clamp from my uncle Ali in China. When that arrives I hope to be able to set the distance back to the desired value. Also made a little app to change the desired value to a hex-array: