Powerslave

In addition to the above, I would suggest checking the wheel/tyre balance. Sounds simple, but I had an unbalanced 285/75R16 BFG KM2/alloy wheel combination on a truck and occasionally (I guess when the wheels were 'in synch'), they caused a hell of a shudder at around 40mph. Rebalancing fixed the problem permanently.

Thanks, Mr Western! That's great as it was the assembly I was guessing at. I'll boot up the spending machine.

Hi all I've removed the potentiometer based throttle pedal assembly from the TD5. I need to get the part(s) to retrofit a cable based unit. I would rather order all new than get something out of an older truck. I've been perusing parts diagrams, but does anyone know what the best fit would be? I guess that not much has changed over the years, but I don't know for sure. Thanks! Ian

I've machined the existing mount so that it just houses the PAS and I'll post that up in the build thread. I've ordered a radiator to 'suck it and see'. I'll post what I find here in case it helps anyone in future. regards Ian

Am I correct in thinking that fuse 1 blows immediately as soon as you put it in the holder even with all the other fuses and relays disconnected and the ignition switch off? If so, and you plug all the other fuses and relays back in, are we also saying that the only items which don't then work are the internal light and the horn? Further to that, could you locate the connector that Pete3000 mentions? Definitely unplug it and see if your lamp tester still lights up on fuse 1. Then let us know.

I came back to the thread about to ask if you had a tow bar connector which had perhaps been crushed or similar as I was wondering if one of the purple wires was running to a dead short along the chassis. When you say you have a new tow bar - do you mean you have a new one just installed?

Unless I am completely wrong, I don't think that one will be much help. It's for a Lightweight. A lot of the colours stayed the same through the various 90/110/Defender/TD5/TDCi evolutions, but the Lightweight is out there on its own. I am just digging around for a 200 Tdi diagram. I've got a full copy of the TD5 stuff which has been invaluable for the V8 conversion I'm involved with. If we had a diagram, we could put together a quick test procedure to narrow your search. Of course, it's possible that a previous owner has hung another circuit on that fuse. Do you have any extra auxiliary lights or similar?

Have you got a copy of the circuit diagram? Could prove helpful.

Hi all As part of my TD5 -> V8 Auto conversion, I need some part numbers. The current steering pump mount I have is much larger and more complex than necessary as it originally also accommodated the ACE and aircon pumps. If I could use a different mount, I could also use an old school thermostat housing cover HRC1554 with Nige's Thor Thermostat Conversion Kit which should make it easier to use a Defender V8 radiator with standard hoses. The current ACE/PAS/aircon mount fouls this housing cover. On the subject of radiators, I see that ESR76 and ESR203 are likely candidates. They have come up for discussion many years ago on here, but with no clear winner. Does anyone know the difference between these two and/or know which would best suit the application? I would rather pick something that is meant to bolt in as I am buying new. Fingers crossed! regards Ian

Yep - the more I looked into it (with the benefit of having the various parts on the bench), it seemed like there were quite a few options. As there is a single pipe with the right fittings on already running from the fuel tank area to the engine bay and, as you say, the D2 pump is returnless, isn't the easiest option to just dump the D2 V8 fuel pump into the TD5 tank and connect the single HP hose? (I hope it is anyway. )

I have a few and I know that at least two are Safari Gard, but I don't think they exist as a company anymore. They are/were rock solid. Mine have carried wheels with 35 inch tyres with no trouble. If you find someone with any stock left, I would snap their hands off. I'll have a look and try to identify them and post photos.

A quick update: Mo ran a thread which covered quite a lot of ground. Anyone reading this one looking for more information about fuel pumps and tanks should look here: I can see plastic under the mud and have the pump out of the donor vehicle. I picked up a new seal so I can put the tank back together this weekend. I also looked at the fueling circuit diagram in the workshop manual. It seems that the high pressure hose connected originally to (8) on the TD5 pump goes all the way to the engine bay without interruption (which is nice). The manual also says that the hp circuit runs at 58 psi which is the same as the pressure from the Disco II V8 pump. Should be ok then......

Sounds good to me. Really interesting thread, Mo - glad you brought this subject up. I am temporarily going to go with the Disco II item (at least to begin with), as I already own it and it means I don't need a separate regulator. When my PRV turns up from Nige, I can easily get the ROW thingy and a Sytec 044 with associated filters. If anyone has the information, I still would like to know if I can get the Land Rover clip type connectors so I can make my own fuel pipes up (or have them made).

I removed the pump from the Disco II this afternoon. It is pictured on the left against the TD5 110 one on the right. They certainly look interchangable, right down to the four pin connector. Interestingly, the retaining ring has BMW stamped on it. Both the diesel and the petrol items have the same clips for attaching fuel pipe. Does anyone know what they are called? Or if there is a company who can make me up a fuel pipe of a particular length with the fittings I need on each end?

Just to check my thinking...... I like the idea of the basic/ROW pickup and sender in the tank, a pre and post filter and a Sytec 044 equivalent. MS could (obviously) easily switch the pump. With this setup, though, I would need a PRV at the engine end to get the correct fuel pressure for the engine. If the Disco II one does indeed fit, then I won't need a PRV as there is an integral fuel pressure regulator as part of the pump. Is this the case?