paime
-
Posts
616 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by paime
-
-
Coming along nicely! Out of interest, what are you using to treat any surface rust you're finding that isn't getting chopped out and replaced?
-
1 hour ago, Mutley said:
Why can't you use the ones off the barrels that you have removed, as it's only the barrel that is dead?
If you clean up the old lock you will see a stud in the groove of the plastic (not sure maybe x2 grooves, top and bottom) push the stud in as it's spring loaded and pull the cap off at the same time then re-use.
This is what i have done when changing the lock barrels on the 300tdi and it looks pretty much the same set up.
I may have realised this is how you do it after i forced the sleeve off with a pair of plumber's grips and now one of them is in pieces..... I have to do both locks so i'll get the other side off now i know what i'm doing but i'll still need to replace one side at least. I think a trip to the scrappies is in order!
-
Managed to get my old key barrel out the other day as all the pins have gone to mush. Got my new key barrel ready to go and realised i'm missing a part. It's the plastic retaining sleeve in step 7 of the workshop manual https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/defender300tdi/chassis_and_body/door_striker_adjust/ . Does anyone know where i can pick up the sleeve only from?
-
I put some exhaust wrap on an MG Midget i used to have years ago. Great stuff imho, looks the part, kept things remarkably cool and made life a little more bearable in the cabin. The only issue i had was in the application where i didn't wear gloves or long sleeves and was itching for weeks afterwards! I'm sure the stuff i bought was covered in tiny razor blades!
-
The image has been quite deliberately cropped....you don't want to see the rest!!
-
10 hours ago, Lightning said:
Or you could try what l suggested!
This one involves a degree of finesse/fabrication that will take a bit of time. I'm going to give the bending a shot first of all and then i might need to use your approach to keep things in place.
It's a bit difficult to see but this is what i'm dealing with:
-
2 hours ago, Eightpot said:
Locate the internal roof brace bar which runs from side to side (should be where the roof lining plastic studs are pressed into)
Put a bottle jack on the floor under it, a suitably sized pole on top of that and a bit of wood spread along the roof brace and jack it up till the roof is straight again - you'll need to go a way past 'straight 'as it will flex back a bit.
I jammed/braced a bit of wood between the floor and the roof which popped the top panel up. After fitting the new alpine window seal, i released the bit of wood and i think the new seal must be helping to hold the form of the roof. I think i'll use this method of jacking up the middle brace and see if that fixes it permanently. Can't beat a bit of agricultural engineering!
-
Hi Folks,
The roof on my 90 commercial has been dented for a while, looks like the previous owner either stood on it or placed a heavy load on it unfortunately. It's never bothered me much as i can't see it but when i went to change the seals on my alpine windows last night i could get the new seal to fit as the top edge of the window frame/whole is deformed. I pushed the roof up and the window aperture looked right again but when i release the pressure from the roof it warps again. Any tips for fixing this? I think i've read somewhere that applying heat gets it back into shape but i'm a little nervous about that approach!
Cheers
-
1 hour ago, Snagger said:
No, they tell you they have everything in stock and take your money, then leave you hanging for weeks or even months, and when you call them they then tell you they're out of stock. Then they may send you a Britpart item after charging you for genuine, and probably the wrong part anyway. Many of us on this forum have shared that experience and won't trust Craddocks ever again.
Good to know! I find the old Britpart switcheroo happens with a few suppliers these days!
-
Just saw a link to John Craddock. JC have everything in stock but their website does my head in. Missing pictures all over the place which makes it difficult to find what you're looking for!
-
On 9/26/2018 at 10:59 AM, gilloverland said:
Just to add that the vented discs and calipers upgrade doesnt fit early 110s - mine is ex military on a C reg and when I tried this the calipers foul on the hubs where the wheel studs go. Even if you ground a bit off, in the event of a wheel bearing failure the hub would hit the caliper with disasterous consequences.
I just thought id update this thread as its one of the first on google search.
This must've been heartbreaking after getting to the end of the job and finding it doesn't fit!
-
I'm a big fan of the TD5 as, for my tastes anyway, it strikes the right balance between refinement and farm, for a Defender at least. That aside, from an economical point of view i believe running costs are probably too close to call, particularly when the age of engine, degree of wear, history etc come in to it. Could you compare them on costs to maintain confidence in the unit i.e. what would you do to tdi and TD5 units as preventative maintenance (injector seals, head work etc) before anything major occurs? Let's say you have two engines, both at 150k miles, one a tdi and the other a TD5. Which is going to cost more for a bit of TLC?
On 9/15/2018 at 5:16 PM, Tanuki said:(65 in 3rd, great for fast-twisty-road work)
I'm assuming that's kph as mine will have blown up looooooong before i reach 65mph in 3rd!
-
So, thanks to what can only be described as a miracle, my beloved Daisy has passed her MOT for another year. I know full well that she won't take a weld next year so i'll have to sort the chassis out at some point along the line but it does give me plenty of time to sort her underside bits out whilst she's still on the road rather than all at once. With that in mind i'm going to slowly start refurbing axles, panhard rods etc over the next 6 months but what paint is best to use? Ideally i'll get all the loose bits and mud off first of all and then give it a heavy duty coat of something, but what paint to use? I'll probably not be able to get everything spotlessly clean and debri-free so it'll need to be fairly forgiving. A black matt is preferred.
-
On 8/30/2018 at 10:14 AM, Dan D90 said:
I’m really grateful for everyone’s input, especially the chaps who have taken the time to post up pictures.
I have found the brackets in Paime’s photo on ebay for £20, I will give them a shot and report back.
How're you getting on with this? Did the brackets go on without too much fuss?
-
Ok, so looks like you're missing a bracket for the middle anchor point. Also took a picture of the seatbelt bracket that holds the reel on as well.
-
Nicely done!!
-
1
-
-
Is it the middle seat belt you're struggling with? What you've outlined in yellow above is the same as i have in my TD5.
-
That Raptor looks quite nice but Peaklander's rear cross member is the look i'm going for. The chassis rails can have brush strokes on them, that doesn't bother me too much but the majorly visible bits need to look nice and smooth.
Stupid question re galv, does it affect my earthing points at all?
-
1
-
-
On 8/24/2018 at 7:53 PM, smallfry said:
If the chassis is galvanized, presuming it IS a new one ? I reckon you are best off T-washing it and brush painting good old chassis paint on it.
I know its relatively soft, but its cheap and is easily touched in or recoated. Once you get a few coats on it, is adds some age, which I like !
Depends what you are trying to achieve. A workhorse, to disguise it, or make it a bit flash (thief magnet)
Waxoyl is another sh1te Hammerite group product. Wouldn't waste ANY money on it all. For a few quid more, buy either Bilt Hamber, or Dinitrol and get something that actually works..
Yup, it'll be a new galv chassis. It's certainly not a flashy wagon but i also want to stay away from the farm truck look. Essentially i'm looking for a robust matt black coating that won't discolour too quickly. Also want to stay away from brush marks but maybe that's a bridge too far without investing in some spraying equipment.
Hammerite is horrific and i've never had a good result after i've used it. Doesn't matter how much i prime and prep, rust always shows through pretty quickly. I do like their waxoyl though and i've had some good results with that when i'm already working with a clean surface. I think T wash and then a buzzweld product for the top coat is the combo i'll go with.
-
On 6/27/2018 at 6:13 PM, Anderzander said:
I get that - I think I just lack the emotional connection to them 🤷🏻♂️
I've owned a 2015 RR Sport in the past and it was a great car - plenty of performance on-road and with all its gadgets, plenty useful off-road. It had zero soul, though and i didn't have an ounce of remorse when i sold it. I have an M4 now as well as the defender and it's just the same. Brilliant car, plenty of performance but ultimately just a shiny German box. I'll never sell my beloved Defender but i'm sure i'll go through a few more new things without caring about them.
-
1
-
-
On 8/17/2018 at 11:59 AM, joe1 said:
and not to forget the old school method of spraying old engine oil on the chassis - leaves a nice smooth black patina, it's free. doesn't chip off and you can do it as often as you like. I used to do it on an old td5 disco rear chassis and it kept the rust at bay - that is until the 15p head decided to implode🤤. as long as you leave time for the oil drips to drip there's no oil on the road either. you do however need an old driveway with covers to do it on - a nice block paved suburban drive is not ideal!😲
I heard of a similar approach to treating the internals. Someone told me to park on a slop (nose up) and then pour used engine oil through the dumb irons and let it work it's way to the rear cross member. It almost seems too easy but sometimes the old tricks are the best ones!
-
Looks like T Wash is the product for me. Just need to place my chassis order now and get going. Thanks for the advice, folks!
-
On 3/11/2018 at 7:23 PM, AV8R said:
Your problem , and that of just about every Defender owner, is very nicely explained in this video.
A bit lengthy maybe but at around 10:00 he comes to the solution. The watch is worth every second and the fix is simple. Mind you, this chap has a ton of interesting video's on Land Rover repairs so it might take an evening of two to watch them all.
Just lost a good 2 hours of my working day having a look through this chap's videos! Plenty of good advice in there although i'm not sure about his anti-waxoyl stance.
-
21 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Hammerite is a great product - for applying to stone indoors.
Don't use it on metal, unless you like welding.
I'm going to use the raptor on my chassis, t-wash, raptor primer and then raptor, I think it's the best way to go, from what I've read.
G.
I've had a similar experience with Hammerite before. I was hoping they'd sorted the formula out but all evidence and testimonials are to the contrary so i think i'll take your advice and leave it be.
12 hours ago, Gren_T said:If you dont like the galv look paint the chassis with T wash to get a key then use black chassis paint - "the paint man" does a good quality chassis paint
I'd like to paint the chassis myself but in my experience i can never get paint to stick properly and have always ended up with either rust showing through (Hammerite) or flaking paint. Is it easy enough to get a decent, durable finish with T wash and chassis paint?
TD5 Front Door Lock Key Barrels
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
So i've been googling my fingers to the bone and i can't even find a complete barrel mechanism which includes the part i'm after. I took the other door lock to pieces over the weekend and the barrel attachment broke on that one as well so i'm in a bit of a bind. Any ideas as to where i can get a complete locking mechanism from?