paime
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Posts posted by paime
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19 hours ago, Eightpot said:
Metalic or mica paint contains flakes which reflect the light, if you brush paint it you get very obvious brush marks - its also a mat finish, the gloss comes from clear laquer coats on top, which again doesn't suit brush painting. You can hand paint (with roller or brush) using enamel paint (1k polyeurethane) in solid colours, if you want to keep it silver it's best to take it to a bodyshop.
Thanks all, you've saved me quite a headache there i think!
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Excellent, thanks! Project rust starts tomorrow so i'm a bit away from painting yet. Good to know silver doesn't like hand painting though.
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Can i hijack this thread and ask about the colour of my beastie as well? It's a 2000 Td5. Bodywork prep is starting soon and i'm tempted by the hand painted option.
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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Penetrating oil. Silicone spray. Wire cup attachments for angle grinders.
Take your time. Chase the rot.
What does the silicone spray do?
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
But why? The edge of the head gasket is doing nothing other than keeping the mating faces apart. You can see a typical failure in @tuko's thread here:
The places it will fail are from the bores or water/oilways outwards, not from a tiny dimple on the outside edge.
I know and i agree....but personally i'm a bit neurotic about those sorts of things. I've been burned by thinking it'll be fine in the past (quite literally on some occasions!) so i would want it properly sorted. That's just me though and this one is really personal choice.
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It's funny how snow seems to arrive whenever an urgent job needs doing!
My exhaust decided to part company with it's mountings over the weekend so she'll be off the road for a while anyways. Looks like i've got a long road ahead!
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In my experience, the standard black coating that comes with after-market chassis parts will give you a couple of years of protection and then it'll start to stain and ultimately rust. I think the best way to properly sort it would be to strip the existing coating off (or at least key into it) and apply something a little bit more rugged. The experts will be along shortly to let you know what that coating should be but I'm a fan of red oxy as a base coat.
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If it was me I'd constantly be worried that it would cause gasket failure at some point (even though it's in a non-critical position) and I'd have to get it swapped out. It's entirely their fault, not yours and they can be as shirty as they like but unless the parts description alluded to possible damage then they have to replace it.
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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
I've done this repair, made my own. It's a sod of a job, but worth doing.
You're not giving me much hope here! Define "sod of a job".....
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On 5/14/2019 at 3:23 PM, Gazzar said:
Coat every thing, then blast as much cavity wax in there as you can, I like bilt hambler(?) aerosols, Dynax 50, is good.
Landrover have the panel a quick breathe of primer, then an economic whiff of top coat.
Classic Land Rover with 'breaths' of this and 'whiffs' of that! I'm fairly rubbish when it comes to fabricating anything decent and my welding skills are, at best, below average. I'm loathed to go down the route of a new bulkhead because it'll cost several thousands to do though. I'm going to get hunting on the internet and see if there are any companies selling internal panels. Seems odd that nobody does it (potential business idea for someone maybe?) as this is the spot where all defenders will likely rust.
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20 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Don't wax it if you're due to weld it though - wax is quite flammable...
Fix it THEN wax it.
I get the logic here and i'll do everything i can to avoid setting my beloved Daisy on fire...however....how to get some rust prevention in between the outer and inner skins once i've completed the plating? Is there a trick to it or do i just go to town with some cavity wax?
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Looks like i'll have to fab some repair sections then! Is it worth coating as much of the bit between the panels whilst i'm in there or did Land Rover do an ok job of it?
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Hi Folks,
Like so many defenders before, my bulkhead is giving up the ghost. The footwells are good and it's just the corners that are getting a bit too knackered for my liking to it's time to do the repairs. I haven't been in to have a proper poke around but it looks as though the bulkheads have an inner and an outer skin, is that right? In the engine bay everything look solid but inside the cabin is a different story. If i buy one of the standard repair corners, will it only replace the outer skin (the engine bay side) and will i just have to fabricate some panels for the cabin-side?
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10 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
+1 for this chap's videos. Plenty of nuggets of info in there to solve myriad problems.
I put new seals on mine earlier in the year and they've been fine. I can't remember where i got them from (they may be Br*tpart ones) but they formed a tight seal against the window. Are you sure the water is coming in directly at the seal? Could it be coming in from the corners and working its way towards the middle of the window to make it seam like it's the seal thats giving way?
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Have a look at this vid:
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Just noticed there was a video attached - weird stuff! Does it only drip when the engine is running or has recently been running? I'm thinking it might be a freon leak.
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Here's mine, Western. Ignore the flecks of mud from when the dogs shake in the back! I bought it a few years ago, was fairly straight forward to fit (had to trim a piece out the bottom dash rail iirc) and has lasted well ever since. I had intended to fit some proper rocker switches for ancillary bits and pieces but you can see how far i got with that exercise...
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On 1/13/2019 at 7:38 PM, roamingyak said:
I'l leave you to it then...
A few thoughts for others - my entire 500+ cd collection fits on a SDHC card less than 1 inch squared and you can listen to any radio station via the net if you've got a tiny amount of data that you can use - except if in places with no signal.
I made a mount for my ipad using thin 2 * 2cm wide Aluminium strips, put it on top of dash, fold down over the corning, fold underneath the dash bottom again, then some 3 sided strips horizontally to hold it in - point being it sits almost flush against the dash. And that was version 1 done in 30 mines in the dark for departure the next day.Have you got any pics of this? Very intrigued by the prospect of installing an Android tablet in the dash as it'll undoubtedly be cheaper and more functional than a normal double-din unit. How do you get it to play through the speakers?
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23 hours ago, Maverik said:
I just noticed where you're located, if you need a hand at all send me a PM, I stay outside the city, I'm about this weekend.
Cheers
Mav
Cheers Mav, i might very well take you up on that offer!
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8 minutes ago, Red90 said:
Long ones on the left side to counteract the offset position of the engine.
I'm going to throw a spanner in the works here and say the long ones are on the driver's side (right hand side). Could be a UK/Canada difference though? Also, i could be totally wrong!
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5 hours ago, RedLineMike said:
its also worth noting that if in your normal commute you are driving above 2000rpm in the warm up stage of your journey, the thermostat will be sucked into the fully open position by the waterpump thus circulating the full capacity of the cooling system rather than just the reduced warm up circuit
I didn't even know this was possible! I've got a new thermostat in now and so far, so good. Still need to have a good check of the earths and i also have a HEAP of oil in my ECU block connector. Starting to think i should've bought a 300tdi to stay away from some of these electrical gremlins but hind sight is an exact science etc etc...
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So, things are looking better on the heating side of things. I changed the thermostat, heater matrix and 2 cooling hoses and she seems to be running better. It's been warmer up with us recently though so that might be making a difference.
On a related note, i've spotted the attached pic on my travels. How do you even go about fixing that? Could this be causing some issues with all my brake warning lights and the temp gauge as well?
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I have a 90 TD5 and drive a 2012 2.4 110 for work. The TD5 is slower and colder but i would have it over the 2.4 any day of the week. The leg room in the 2.4 is terrible and the transit engine doesn't sound like a defender to me. I don't think parts are ever going to be an issue for either vehicle so no real differentiators there. One thing i would say is I wouldn't spend £15k on a TD5 even if it was well sorted with low miles. Rust will creep into the chassis and bulkhead soon enough and you'll see some depreciation. I'd spend tops £10k and the rest on regular maintenance. That's just my opinion though!
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Ah ok. Hopefully it'll be plug and play on my TD5 but time will tell!
Cheers
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Bulkhead woes
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by paime
Hi Guys,
So i started the strip down last night in preparation for repairing the bulkhead. When i got the dashboard out the rust wasn't as bad as i thought (thankfully!) however there are a number of areas of surface rust. I'll plate in some places but what's the best way to deal with the surface rust? I've used Jenolite in the past but it didn't work as well as i'd hoped but then again maybe it was the way i applied it.
Also, i'm thinking about repairing the A-pillar, how difficult a job is it to weld in the replacement piece? The seam is pretty rusty where the door seal sits so i'll need to do something to make it solid.