Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


paime last won the day on August 5

paime had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

About paime

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

216 profile views
  1. Have you lifted up the floor pans yet? I had a similar issue with mine and when i took the floors out i found a lot more rot. It's easy enough to repair but can be quite extensive and will let in water when you're driving in the rain etc.
  2. If you've got a link to the PDF that would be great. I'm looking to make some changes in advance of winter this year rather than waiting until the temperature drops to unhappy levels.
  3. Is it legal? Do the ice caps melt a bit when you turn it on?
  4. Just read through that thread and fell into a rabbit hole of PTC heaters. Interesting stuff! It's amazing nobody has come up with a kit that solves this issue yet, presumably because it's quite difficult to do. What in the name of all things holy is this beastie??
  5. I've been doing a bit of thinking about this whilst my dash is still exposed. Has anyone ever tried using the gubbins from a 12V hairdryer in their dash? I'm particularly thinking about the windscreen demisters here. Something like this: https://www.a2zcamping.co.uk/caravan-accessories/12-volt-hair-dryer-defroster.html taken to bits and then some ducting stuck on the end and routed via a t-piece to the window vents. It would mean the landy's heater is only for the footwell but i don't think that would make a difference. A simple switch on the dash somewhere would turn it on and off. Thoughts?
  6. i replaced the matrix in my TD5 recently and it's not too bad a job. You've got to take off the air intake under the wing which involves removing the grill, moving the washer bottle out of the way and then removing the retaining bracket that fits to the inner wing. After that you've got the 4 bolts holding it on to the bulkhead which are reachable with a bit of contortion and then you just remove the heater cables and hoses and you're good to go. The matrix itself is easy removed by undoing all the grub screws. Buy a new heater box - bulkhead seal before you start as it'll most likely have fallen to pieces.
  7. paime

    Bulkhead woes

    Right then chaps, bit of an embarrassing problem this one....after successfully removing my dash i kept all screws etc in their old locations (just put them in finger tight) so i would know where each on came from. I also labelled the electrical gubbins so they should go back nicely. I have, however, completely forgotten how the dash came apart and therefore have no idea how it goes back together. I started from the top down so i know i've got to start from the bottom up but other than that i'm scuppered. Does anyone have any walk-throughs they can point me in the direction of? I remember 2 supporting plates falling out from behind the lower dash panel and i have no idea where they were or what they were doing!
  8. paime

    Door Hinges

    I'm struggling to persuade my associate that he should do my hinges for free so i'm back to square one. I've read a few bits and pieces on here but does anyone have any experience of replacing the hinges? I don't have a press at home, is it a non-starter?
  9. paime

    Door Hinges

    I was considering doing exactly this. There's not a huge amount of play in my hinges but i was worried that they'd be too far gone to react well to a new pin and i'd end up replacing them anyway. I reckon i could get them blasted and painted for next to bu**er all and new pins would hopefully not cost me much. Worth a shot?
  10. paime

    Door Hinges

    Those seem quite reasonable and if they can survive our Scottish salty roads then you'd have to hope they'd survive anything...
  11. paime

    Wet feet!

    Check the windscreen hinges as well. You'll be able to see if the water is coming in by having a look just next to the A post. There will be some staining and probably rust if the seal has gone.
  12. paime

    Door Hinges

    I would love to have those aluminium hinges but they're just a bit too pricey. I can get mine blasted for free by a mate who works for a fab company and i'm tempted to get him to replace the pins as well but then i'd have to paint them afterwards and my paint skills are less than acceptable. Might be a starting point for me and if it doesn't work then i won't have lost anything.
  13. paime

    Bulkhead woes

    Just a quick progress update on this one. My welding is now complete (thank god) and i've hit everything with a hammer and jumped up and down on the outriggers without anything moving. A huge thanks to those who persuaded me doing it myself was the best course of action. Definitely not the prettiest of jobs but i've learnt a huge amount (waxoyl is quite flammable, eh??) and i'm really quite proud of the outcome. Next up is painting everything. Because it's just the outer exposed area of the bulkhead i'm painting, i'm using one of the spray cans. Everything is primed and good to go so hopefully the next pics will be a completed project!
  14. paime

    Door Hinges

    Morning folks, My bulkhead refurb is going well and it's almost time to look at the door hinges. The old ones are fairly horrific with rust stains galore but i don't want to spend money on the aluminium ones. I've found these (https://www.lrparts.net/full-front-door-hinge-kit-for-defender-td5-style-heavy-duty-door-hinges-with-stainless-steel-nut-bolts-and-plastic-shims.html) does anyone have any experience of them? Do they require a coat of paint before they go on? Cheers
  15. paime

    Bulkhead woes

    Good point, i think i might be getting a little carried away. I've clarted everything in underseal now so no pics available but i'll post some of the corner repairs when i get to them. My biggest problem with welding seems to be getting the puddle where i want it. My hand will move perfectly straight with the torch (or so i think) but when i stop and have a look the puddle has wandered all over the place. I'm trying not to do too many runs, it's more of a continual spot welding approach starting on opposite ends of the panel then working inwards to try and prevent warping. Daft question perhaps but how should i be angling the torch?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy