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Does anyone know if you can buy pre-cut rear carpet trim for defenders? I'd like some for the roof and side panels and don't want to fork out for the full plastic trim.

I have a recall notice as well for my 90 TD5! I'll be watching this with interest.

Hi folks, Replaced the idle pulley tonight as the old one was screaming at me. The new one came with a copper washer but the old one didn't seem to have one. Does anyone know where it should go? I'm thinking between the pulley and the mounting point but then I'm not sure how to keep it centred when I put it all together.

Sounds like expensive heater toys are a bit unnecessary based on the responses! Must get mine into shape over the summer before I freeze in winter again but thought the expensive box might be a shortcut to success. At the price they're asking it needs to be phenomenal before the spend makes any sense though.

Has anyone tried this? https://ministryofdefender.co.uk/buy-puma-dashboard.html#!/Defender-Heater-Only/p/538547111/category=0 It looks quite pricey but promises double the output in a neat looking box. They also do AC upgrades but they're even more spendy!

The headlight stalks are always failing so best to start there. You can take them apart and check the contacts are clean and the springs are all intact. They're annoyingly expensive to replace unfortunately!

Will the grinder foul on the bottom of the spring seat? Looks quite tight to me and I reckon cutting the ball at the neck might be easier.

I'm happy to take some pics of my engine bay and send them through but I haven't tinkered under the bonnet yet so not quite sure where you need them taken. Post an image from Google of the engine bay with the bits circled and I'll take some snaps.

Hello, I have a 2011 TDV8 which has recently developed a strange noise. I've had it into the garage and they suspect it's the transfer box but couldn't pin it down. It's entirely road speed dependent and doesn't get any worse or better when it's under load or freewheeling. The garage changed the transfer box oil and but that hasn't really helped. They also checked all wheel bearings and had a look at the brakes but all seemed fine. I've attached an audio recording from today. Any thoughts as to what it might be? It's driving me nuts! RR Noise.m4a

Never worked with an engine that needs it's oil sucked out before! Does that mean it's a relatively easy job to change oil and filters if you don't have to crawl under it to get the sump plugs off? Had a bit of a concerning rattle when under heavy acceleration today. I'm hoping it's a heat shield.

Here she is! Still really enjoying driving something so smooth on my daily commute although I have to admit I'm a bit worried it's going to explode at any moment. Is a full fluid change including gearbox and transfer something that can be done on the drive? I've had a good poke about for rust and haven't found anything too drastic yet. A bit of very slight surface corrosion on the rear arches that'll be worth sorting before it causes a problem but otherwise it seems fairly straight. It's had new brake pads and all new brake lines as well. The rear window washers appear to be blocked so I'll need to sort that and and the front heated window doesn't work in places. Other than that I can't find any issues but I've got a 3 month warranty with it so was going to book her into a garage for a proper checkup to be sure.

Hello again! After much deliberation I managed to buy a 2011 TDV8 the other day. It's like driving a sofa sitting on treacle - an absolute peach of an experience. It's a high miler at 150k but full service history and fairly clean MOTs so hopefully it'll last a while before I need to do anything serious. Is there any preventative work i should do immediately? It had it's fluid and filters changed before I bought it.

Those bolts were stuck solid on mine as well. I had to use a large cold chisel with some brute force and ignorance to get mine moving. Your only other option is to cut the bolt off at the seat box side but there's a risk you could manage things so best be careful.

What @Anderzandersaid really - prepare yourself for scope creep on an industrial scale. I ended up painting bits like trailing arms and the A bars because they looked a bit tired and it all took a lot longer than I'd hoped as a result. Otherwise, panel gap alignment is a nightmare if you're lifting the body as a single piece. If I had the space I would definitely strip everything back to the bulkhead then reassemble on the new chassis piece by piece but when I did mine that wasn't really possible. My sodding doors still don't shut properly!!

Ok so it's not so cheap but I couldn't find another thread to put it on. I'm sure I've read about these things somewhere: https://www.i-bidder.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/tennants-auctioneers/catalogue-id-srten10934/lot-297b33d9-0f6c-459e-b76d-ae8d0118ef4f