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paime

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Everything posted by paime

  1. paime

    What Tyres

    I'm genuinely amazed by the difference in road noise between the 265 mud terrains and 235 ATs. I can (almost) have a conversation with a passenger now which is nice. I've got a day's shooting at the weekend so looking forward to getting them in some mud to see how they handle.
  2. paime

    What Tyres

    Went for the Grabber AT3s in the end 235/85/16. Quite happy with how they look, a bit taller than the old STTs but they fill the wheel arch well. They are by far waaaaaay quieter than the STTs!
  3. paime

    What Tyres

    I've heard good things about the AT3s and a lot of folk on here seem to be leaning towards them of the BGFs. I realised over the weekend that i have 16 x 10" modulars on the wagon. How does rim width affect tyre size choices? The 285s fit on there but will 235s work ok or am i better off with 265s? Edit: Just realised i've been a numpty and i actually have 265/76/16s on mine rather than 285s! Question still stands i guess but are there any sizes in between 235 and 265 that are worth considering? Double Edit: Also just measured my rims and i have 8" rather than 10". Don't you just love Mondays??
  4. paime

    What Tyres

    I think one thing is certainly clear - tyre choice is about as subjective as you can get! I had BFGs on the landy when i first bought it but two of the side walls collapsed well before the tread was worn down and that's when i went on to the Cooper STTs. They were fine if not a bit loud and cumbersome at 285 so i'm definitely going for 235s instead. Here's what i'm currently thinking: https://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/235-85-16-general-grabber-at3-120-116s_04507000000?specs=24,59,66,
  5. paime

    What Tyres

    Just found someone else's landy in my work car park with 235/85/16s and i quite like the look of them. It'll save me a couple of ££s as well. Everywhere website i go to says the Goodyear MT/R tyres are exempt from tyre labelling so i can't assess how economical or noisy they are. What's that all about?
  6. paime

    What Tyres

    A few options then! Anyone got any pics of the 235s on their wagon? Performance is one thing but my dear Daisy needs to be looking good, too!
  7. paime

    What Tyres

    What size do you normally use?
  8. paime

    What Tyres

    I do like the look of the BFG ATs but they're quite pricey. having said that, 110k miles out of a set is pretty good value. Got any pics of them?
  9. paime

    What Tyres

    Sadly my old Cooper STTs are nearing the end of their tread and i need to replace all 4 of them. I've got about 35k miles out of them in the end so i'm pretty pleased however they were a bit noisy. They were 265/75/16. What's everyone else running and are there any recommendations? I wouldn't mind getting something quieter (smaller?) but i also quite like the look of chunkier tyres. Thoughts please!
  10. I believe these are known as the '3 Amigos' in some circles.... I had these showing on my TD5 and managed to get rid of them by cleaning all the earthing points thoroughly. I think on the Puma there are some other possible faults including hill descent wires and brake pedal switches but i might be wrong.
  11. I would second that, concrete is a heavy beast and once it starts moving to area you don't want it to be in, it's a nightmare to do anything with. What size mesh are you going to use? 1 course or 2 courses? Also, what finish are you going for, brushed or floated?
  12. The solenoids are prone to giving up on TD5s. Not an expensive job but not a fun one either.
  13. I've heard mixed opinions in the past with some people saying that waxoyl actually traps moisture against the steel work and may enhance corrosion over the years. I think if you were to do it in a proper heated spray booth then that might help though? If i ever get round to doing my chassis i think i'll probably coat the inside as my current one seems to be rotting from the inside out. On another note, did you keep the earthing points covered when the satin paint was going on or will you remove the paint later?
  14. Looks great! Will you do any waxoyling/coating on the internals at all?
  15. paime

    Hanging Doors

    I had to use a couple of ratchet straps to pull the screen down enough to get the bolts into the brackets, should it be that difficult? I'll maybe do some minor modification with a file to the top holes where the captive nuts sit in the bulkhead and see if that makes a difference.
  16. paime

    Hanging Doors

    That's a terrifying prospect tbh! It's not terrible just now and must only be out by about 3mm so i'm not massively concerned. Chassis swap is due in Spring next year so i think that will be the time to line everything back up again.
  17. paime

    Hanging Doors

    now i think about it, getting the windscreen hinge bolts in was a nightmare and that's probably because the screen was sitting too high with the roof. It all makes sense now!
  18. paime

    Hanging Doors

    Yup, front wings came off for the job. Feeling like a numpty now! I've got to put a new chassis on next year anyway so maybe i'll just have to deal with a slightly annoying door close until then.
  19. paime

    Hanging Doors

    What didn't i weld might be an easier question! It was mostly done on the chassis and new outriggers as well. I put one new corner on the top of the OS bulkhead corner but the holes for the hinges were bigger than the original holes so there was no restriction in movement. There is a difference in height between the curve on the body and the door (will post pics later) and it looks like the whole door should be lifted a couple of mm straight up. Trouble is i don't have that much movement available to me in either the bottom hinge (where no work was done) or the top hinge. Thinking about it, is it possible the bulkhead has sunk a little when i removed the old outriggers getting ready for the new ones? I only did one side at a time in the hope that nothing would move.
  20. So after all the welding and fannying around i finally got the old girl through her MOT. I put the doors on in a bit of a hurry the first time round as i was 1 day away from my free re-test so tried to do a better job of it over the weekend. Is there a technique/process i should follow to get them to hang properly? The doors line up quite nicely with the bottom of the rear wing and the A-post but the catch on the B post is about 3mm too high. I'm lowered the catch as much as i can but it still rubs on the door trim when opening and closing. I've played around with the shims in the hinges and i've even used (don't get mad at me, please) a trolley jack and a bit of wood to lift the rear of the door up to make sure everything is as high as it will go but still no joy. Any suggestions?
  21. A half marathon followed by removing a chassis from a Defender?? You're making us all feel bad here!!
  22. Is the swivel assembly on the other side the same and have you got any pics? My instinct would be to replace like for like as it if ain't broke, don't fix it.
  23. +1 for flap discs but be careful with them. It's amazing how powerful they can be and it's easy to rip a bit more metal out that you had initially planned.
  24. Just spent a good hour trawling through your chassis thread, excellent work btw!
  25. What did you use to lift the body? Farm jacks, chain hoists or bacon & coffee fuelled helpers?
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