paime
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Posts posted by paime
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I'm struggling to find myself a welder. I'd like a min 130amp, 13v socket with a euro torch and hopefully for somewhere in the region of £300. Ebay has some but it's all local collection and postage is monstrous on the heavy machines. I've tried gumtree but it's slim pickings up here in Aberdeen and i've also looked at i-bidder. Is there anywhere else i need to be looking or is it a matter of waiting until the right deal comes along?
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The way i see it, unless i distort the chassis somehow, i can't really make it worse than it already is so i might as well give it a bash. The only additional cost is the welding machine but by the sounds of it these things last decades so i'm sure i'll get the use out of it.
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I think you'll kick yourself in 5 years' time if you sell it now. To give a comparison, i got quoted £3,850 + VAT to supply and fit a new galv chassis to my 90 TD5. I reckon a decent 200tdi with a galv chassis is worth more than £6k so you can't really lose if you do the chassis. Worst case scenario you can sell the truck and get your money back plus possibly a bit extra.
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Is that the Clark 151te? I've seen one of them on gumtree at £200 with a full bottle of gas and 0.6mm wire which seems like good value to me.
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haha! Every experience i have of gasless MIGs to date has been a horrible one full of splatter and burnt trousers. Quite excited about the prospect of going gasless!
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i've been doing some frantic research today and i think i'm going to go for a 150amp gas/gasless MIG unit either Sealey or Clark. I've been looking at 2nd hand stuff as well and there's precious little up here in Aberdeen by the looks of it.
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Cheesy peeps!! That thing looks like it'll survive a nuclear bombing!
You lot have persuaded me to at least give it a bash so that's what i'm going to do. Just need to find myself a decent welder now that won't blow my budget too much. I like the look of the SuperMig130 but do i need to have the luxury of controlling amperage as well as wire feed speed? It just has a high/low setting for power.
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Makes sense and pleased to hear you didn't have to scrape out all the old sealant. That stuff is stuck like sh*t to a blanket on mine and i had visions of using a tiny dremmel and thousands of tiny wire brush attachments to safely get the stuff out without damaging the roof paint!
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Cheers Stephen, you've given me the confidence to at least give it a go! Being Scottish, the thought of saving some money is also a big motivator! Expect some welding pics on here soonish....
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Fortune favours the brave and all that! I think i'll hire one for the week and see how i get on first. I've tried stick welding before and it was a nightmare and the only MIG i've used in the past has been a cheaper unit and i just got splatter all over the place. Maybe with a better machine and some more time i can get the hang of it enough to let me do the bits and pieces i need to do.
Re the outriggers, how do you support the bulkhead whilst you're cutting them out?
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43 minutes ago, MR-HIPPO said:
If you are going to replace it anyway, you have an whole outrigger to practice on. 😉
There's not much left to work with unfortunately!
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i think i might use a flap disc tonight and see what the metal is like around the outrigger. I've read quite a few threads on here about how to do it but it's my own ability i have no confidence in!
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I have been considering my options when it comes to welding the new part in myself but i'm terrified i'll make a mess of it and throw the chassis out of line or just keep blowing holes in it until there's not much left and i've got to phone the professionals anyway!
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I phoned the nice chaps at my local LR dealership, gave them the last 8 digits of my VIN and they've told me mine is Blenheim Silver.
@Lizzard pete - give your local stealer a call and hopefully they'll have the info.
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Looks good! Have you sealed it on the inside as well? I've clarted mine in seam sealer inside the cab but i think water might be making it's way in from the guttering. Did you scrape out all the old gutter sealant before you applied new stuff or did you leave it in place?
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So....i had a mobile welding chap out to the house last night to review the various rusty patches and he was considerably more upbeat than i've been. The outriggers are shot through unfortunately and he's estimating £240 / side if i buy the new bits. Is that a reasonable amount to pay for a pair of outriggers? It would be something like £550 including parts i guess. I've already removed floor plans/dash/wing etc so he'll get at it no bother.
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On 4/26/2019 at 5:27 PM, Retroanaconda said:
The ground does seem pretty good from what I've seen so far. I'll be putting steel in the slab for sure, probably two layers of mesh given it'll most likely be a 150mm slab. Unfortunately laying the sub base first and then digging out around it wouldn't work as on the low side it would need to be 150mm or so above current ground level in order to get the slab at the right height, and so would need retention of some kind anyway.
If I simply battered the excavation and sub-base I would end up with a slab of variable thickness across the site. Not sure if this is a problem though? Would obviously cost a bit more in concrete as you say but that's no major issue if it saves work elsewhere. This essentially does away with the idea of the 'walls' and incorporates them into one big mass concrete slab, and would certainly be the simplest method of construction. I would end up with something like this:
I think realistically I need to break ground on it and see what I'm dealing with before I can design the thing properly - so once the planning is (hopefully) through I'll book a week off work, get a digger in and start making holes
Remember you'll need 50mm cover over your rebar top and bottom. we used to design slabs like this with 2 layers of mesh, one running 50mm from the top surface and one 50mm from the bottom surface all tied with spacers. Are you going for brickwork walls or is a steel frame/timber frame workshop? if it's the latter then I'd spend a bit of time casting in studs for the feet of your frame. Much easier than post-drilling and hitting rebar with your drill bit!
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😂 i deserved that!
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Mutley - got any pics?
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1 hour ago, steve b said:
Paime , have you considered using a small sand blast pot to clean back those rust patches ? They look like a spray gun , the sand goes in the pot and is drawn up by the airflow . A good coat of zinc paste onto clean metal should stabilise it
cheers
Steve b
Might give this a bash. My original plan was a flap disc and some red oxide across the whole dash but i want to make sure it's done right first time as when the dash goes in i'll never see it again. The engine-side of the bulkhead is actually pretty good so i shouldn't have to get in and do too much in there.
My next decision is what to do with the A pillar - any thoughts?
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I've considered getting an old bulkhead, fixing it up then getting it galved but the cost of even rotten 2nd hand bulkheads is eye watering. A new galvanised one is also crazy expensive. I wish i'd bought a few bulkheads 10/15 years ago and stored them for selling later!
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Hi Guys,
So i started the strip down last night in preparation for repairing the bulkhead. When i got the dashboard out the rust wasn't as bad as i thought (thankfully!) however there are a number of areas of surface rust. I'll plate in some places but what's the best way to deal with the surface rust? I've used Jenolite in the past but it didn't work as well as i'd hoped but then again maybe it was the way i applied it.
Also, i'm thinking about repairing the A-pillar, how difficult a job is it to weld in the replacement piece? The seam is pretty rusty where the door seal sits so i'll need to do something to make it solid.
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19 hours ago, Eightpot said:
Metalic or mica paint contains flakes which reflect the light, if you brush paint it you get very obvious brush marks - its also a mat finish, the gloss comes from clear laquer coats on top, which again doesn't suit brush painting. You can hand paint (with roller or brush) using enamel paint (1k polyeurethane) in solid colours, if you want to keep it silver it's best to take it to a bodyshop.
Thanks all, you've saved me quite a headache there i think!
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Excellent, thanks! Project rust starts tomorrow so i'm a bit away from painting yet. Good to know silver doesn't like hand painting though.
Bulkhead woes
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Joined and found the 'wanted' section 👍