David Sparkes
-
Posts
2,538 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by David Sparkes
-
-
I have had the situation where corrosion inside the slave cylinder caused the piston to travel slowly back to the normal position. This was not accompanied by fluid leakage, so remained invisible for some time. However, it did cause the clutch to slip slightly as drive was taken up. This 'machine controlled' clutch release did make it difficult to find the engagement point on occasion, as the slippage was not under driver control. The noticeable result was a short clutch life between changes. In this case short meant 50,000 miles.
Obviously this situation does not mirror yours, but it is an example of a clutch slip problem being outside the area of the friction plate. In this way it is similar to the sticking release bearing mentioned by Ciderman.
Good Luck
-
I'd suggest that what you need is Evening Classes, rather than a 'Course'.
In politically incorrect days you would be looking for titles such as 'Car Maintenance for Women', or similar.
Actually, you probably still are, but the title is something different. However, try asking your colleges for a list of upcoming evening classes, look for any involving car maintenance, and ask more closely about those.
I'll have to qualify this by saying it's a long time since I did evening classes (Welding and Diesel engines, as two separate courses), so my knowledge of what is currently available is weak.
There are alternative approaches, such as getting taken on as a 'Girl Friday' at an Independent LR garage, where you repay your training by doing some useful work, maybe not in week one, but by the end of 3 months, say. There are pitfalls with this approach as well, as a lot depends on your interaction (in the nicest possible way) with the Garage Owner. You don't want to fall into the trap of being the Tea Boy, or the person constantly sent out to get a part, deliver a car, anything that takes you away from getting your hands dirty.
Good Luck.
PS, A good idea is to update your profile with your location, just in case someone here has local knowledge that may help you.
-
What you need at some time is to put your location in your profile, then someone might be able to give an appropriate answer to " where on heaven or earth i can find one of them??"
Next you need a parts listing, I use a Heritage CD from Gaydon in the UK, about £10.00 this 60th Anniversary year if you live close, about £16 if you have to pay postage.
What you need is 2 off, "Housing for spherical bearing" Part No. 217983.
Google for 217983 +Series, or 217983 +Clutch, and see if you gat any returns close to wherever you are.
Or wait until someone else comes along and corrects any errors I've made.
Good Luck.
-
I used Advanced Search on the rangerovers.net forum.
The terms were Service Interval Reset.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/search.ph...p;submit=Search
The first return was your query, the second return looks promising, but one poster does admit he has never used it himself.
In a later contribution in the same thread another poster suggests an possible alternative method.
Good Luck
-
I can't say I've looked hard for a PDF SIII parts catalogue, however, two suggestions:
http://www.bearmach.com/acatalog/index.html
This gives you the option of installing a utility on your PC, but there don't appear to be any pictures, and as ever, searching success depends on thinking of the right search terms. I don't know how often the database is updated; I haven't spotted a 'look for updates' link.
The same url gives you the option of a PDF catalogue of 'fast moving parts', which may or may not suit your needs.
The other option is to buy a CD from Gaydon. These are reduced to about £10.00 this year (60th Anniversary blah blah) although I note they sting you for postage.
One of the downsides is deciding which of the parts catalogues you are going to look at, then finding that the part number has been updated, and the old one is no help when looking for prices & supply.
Good Luck.
-
To round off this thread:
All are welcome to attend the presentation of charity cheques for the Calendar Girls 2008.
This will take place in the Scrutineering Tent at 8pm on Saturday 23rd August, at the Eckington Interclub meeting.
The calendar raised £2,400, which will be split between the Air Ambulance and Breast Cancer charities, with a donation to Cam Rescue.
The girls would like to thank all who bought a calendar to support these very worthy causes.
Peak and Dukeries Eckington Interclub event, should you wish to attend and PERHAPS have your copy signed, is at http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?G...amp;A=Y&Z=4
The nearest village is Hundall, between Chesterfield and Sheffield.
The Saturday events are CCV & TYRO, the Sunday events are TYRO, RTV, & Night comp, the Monday event is a DAY COMP
01773 785 980 is the event hotline for venues, start times etc.
It is always worth ringing to ensure the event is still on, or that the venue has not had to be altered at the last minute.
P & D home page is http://www.pandd.org.uk/
My thanks to all, I think £2,400 is a good sum from such a venture.
Regards, David.
-
It means that most of the 38A owners who post on here on other topics are competant enough to look after 38As without screaming for assistance over every little thing. Either they know competant mechanics who will do the job for them (and can afford to pay for the service), or they don't have any hold-ups about reading Workshop Manuals, so can 'fish for themselves', as I saw someone else put it.
V8David wrote "Just a quick thought. Load of rubbish really."
Yep, on reflection, you got that right.
Cheers
-
As mmgemini's point, not all mechanics are the same.
Even though they are based of personal experience, if dantd5 had posted his original comments on the Car Mechanics Magazine forum he would have been slaughtered by the many mechanics who post on there.
Conversely, some home mechanics servicing would have got critical comment, if you had seen it being done on 'your' car while in a garage. EG, freeing off sticking brakes by giving the calipers several thumps with a hammer.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26071&hl=
By all means complain about specific instances, but don't extend that to everyone who gets paid to pull on a set of overalls every day.
Cheers
-
OK, the home page for the UK Centre is
http://www.landrover.co.uk/gb/en/Owners/Le...ersContacts.htm
Hopefully the address on there will help, although they may just pass you back to your more local LR office, as already suggested.
Good Luck
-
"Does anyone happen to know ..."
No, I don't 'know', but reading a Workshop Manual, found on the web for the cost of a bit of time, makes use of a basic skill accquired many years ago.
9.5mm dia = 4.0kgf/m
11mm dia = 7.0 kgf/m
-
You refer to a 'Center', that is the American spelling; in the UK it would be 'Centre'.
Where are you trying to get in touch with, North America or the UK?
I don't have a specific contact point for a Customer Relationship Center, but on the grounds that sneaking around the side may help, I get Publicity Information sent to me from Land Rover UK [email@landrover.rjs0.com], so you could try if they will answer.
As you see, that is a UK address.
Hope This Helps.
-
... which Browser are you using? (Make and version).
its internet explorer 7
reduce your picture size using image resizer. Too many pixels and it wont work, try 600 x 800IE7 should not cause a problem.
Disco Tony has a point, what size was your file, and what sort of file was it (jpg, gif, etc)?
Remember a single file has a maximum size of 1.95MB.
To be fair, I'd expect you to get a specific warning if the file was too big, or of a type that isn't allowed, but the obvious possibilities have to be crosssed off.
HTH.
-
ahh the fun of gardening with landrovers!!
Got some pics to upload but it aint working.....can browse through my files, select the one i want, hit open and then upload, wait patiently and then it tells me i didnt select a file to upload - anyone got ideas??
I've had that problem before, which Browser are you using? (Make and version).
-
Will that be a weekend do ?
As some of you will know Armstrongs also built warships. As did Hawthorn-Lesley both on the River Tyne.
During the Russian Japanise war these ships fought battles. One builer on the Russian side. The other buildr on the Japanise side. I can't remember which was which.
That was in the days when ships were built on the Tyne.
mike
Well, having 'very recently' (this morning!) skimmed through the WG Armstrong book, it was Armstrong who supplied several ships to the Japanese.
Re weekend or not, I'd like to hear if someone local had recently visited both sites, to get a recent report on how much engineering stuff is at each site. (Recent means say within the last 3 to 5 years).
I visited Cragside about 12 or more years ago, and was disappointed about how little detail there was about the engineering works. The National Trust seemed to be strong on the 'soft' arts of garden, plants, and house, but if you didn't know how hydraulics worked before you visited you certainly would not be educated while there.
The Techie pictures on one of the sites I listed earlier makes it appear they have done a little bit more to cover the engineering aspect of Armstrong's life there.
The bottom line here is I don't know how long each visit would take, but this would also be influenced by who in the party wanted to visit what, ie Cragside gardens, the rest of the Castle, etc.
I don't know anything about Campsites or B&B, or local Green Lanes.
-
Got a mate with P38 needs pin-out info for the engine ECU to try solve a mystery fault. His man can't find the info and has asked me for help. Anyone here got a diagram or can point me/mate in the right direction??
I've told him set fire to the POS...
ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) off a RAVE CD (downloadable as an image file from Green Oval).
Find the number of the Connector to the ECU, then use that number as a Search term in Adobe, and build up a list (with wire colours) in a Spreadsheet.
That's the direction, can't help more because you haven't said which year or engine you are struggling with.
Thanks for the cross reference Will.
Cheers.
I've told him set fire to the POS...That's a daft way to ask for assistance from anyone who has enough appreciation of them to take an interest in these vehicles.
-
Just doing some research on Mike's suggestion, it appears there are two sites that could be combined on one trip; Cragside, and Bamburgh Castle, which apparently contains an Armstrong Museum.
From http://www.victorianweb.org/technology/eng.../armstrong.html
In later years Armstrong and his wife Margaret lived at Cragside, near Rothbury, Northumberland.
For some architecture and garden details see http://www.victorianweb.org/art/architectu...rmanshaw/2.html
and http://www.ejr.ndo.co.uk/crag.html
For some technical detail see http://www.hevac-heritage.org/items_of_int...de/cragside.htm
National Trust page of the Cragside site http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/...ardenandestate/
Bamburgh Castle
http://www.theheritagetrail.co.uk/castles/...gh%20castle.htm
http://www.bamburghcastle.com/
http://www.bamburghcastle.com/armstrong-museum.html
Streetmap http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?G...amp;A=Y&Z=8 shows the Castle, and you can see Rothley (Cragside) as well, just to give people an idea of location.
Cheers
-
Old man Whitworth must be turning in has grave with all these different thread sizes now.
mike
Oh I don't know, from my reading of his life story, 'old man Whitworth' was at the cutting edge of technology, in his day, which is how we got standardised threads and various other innovations. He could be regarded as the Bill Gates of his day, as he certainly didn't miss a Market Opportunity to sell his bright ideas.
Cheers.
Oops.
Edited to say I've just been to pull the book off the shelf, and realised I was thinking of WG Armstrong, a contemporary and rival gun manufacturer.
-
I don't think there is an online site that gives the first owner.
The UK DVLA will give basic colour, BUT it isn't searchable by VIN, only by UK Registration Number.
However you can apply to them for the records they hold against that Registration Number, which of course gives you the first Customer. Be aware that these aren't guaranteed 100% accurate, as they are dependant on people giving accurate information to the registration authorities at the time, and on clerical errors when the handwriting was being deciphered.
You do need to specify a reason for the data, but they are noticably lax. Just 'thinking of buying ...' seems to do, and 'I've just bought ...' certainly does.
"... complete VIN-Information with nearly the complete datasheet of a model, basic color, first dealer, etc. etc."
Seems most likely to be 'Gaydon' (BMIHT - British Motor Industry Heritage trust), but while you can apply online, the data is not available like that, you have to pay.
Hope That Helps.
-
The brakes are 3/8 UNF, with 3/16 OD pipes.
From memory these can be fitted (but not properly) to M10 fine threads, the male of one will fit the female of the other but not vice versa. I can't recall which is which though!
....
Fortunately the Series 3 workshop manual can help.
In the Data section (NOT the Brakes section) there is a comprehensive write up on the visible differences between Metric and UNF fittings.
The relavant sentances read:
"The greatest danger lies with confusion of 10mm and 3/16th UNF (male) pipe nuts used for 3/16th (4.75mm) pipe.
The 3/16UNF (male) pipe nut or hose can be screwed into a 10mm port but is very slack and easily stripped. The thread engagement is very weak and cannot provide an adequate seal."
I'll attach the relevant two pages, but will just make one observation.
When the changeover was 'new', in the '70s, all the differentiation marks, such as the M and the O's were in place. Nowadays some are missing, as it's cheaper to produce items without them. So items bought new today may not conform exactly to the detail in the Manual.
In addition, there has been 30 years for a PO, or their Mechanic, to have changed the original with whatever he had to hand.
Also, mmgemini wrote "Up to series three will be BSF."
I don't think Series 2 stuff used BSF for hydraulic pipe fittings, could you confirm your statement please Mike?
Cheers
-
FUnnily enough, engine oil doesn't get thinner as it heats up it gets thicker.
Really?
I hope I haven't taken that quote out of context.
However, perhaps you can give some supporting comments, because while we know oils CAN get thicker with heat (cue the transmission Viscous Coupling) my own experience with engine oils leads me to believe they get thinner as the heat rises.
They certainly seem to pour more easily during warm weather (say 15C), compared to cold weather (say 0C).
You mention "relative viscosity".
Relative to what?
It's own viscosity at another temperature, or against an external 'reference' viscosity, of another liquid at some specified temperature?
Thanks.
From another post:
"1.How does using the thicker oil effect cold starting performance seen as in winter it can easily get down to minus 10 where we live ?"
I don't think this question has been answered.
It's not about how to use the engine once it's started, it's about the additional work the starter system has to achieve to turn the engine over with the additional drag of 'cold and thick' oil.
Cheers.
-
On the trail for something else I've noticed these two items. As the Halfords Professional range seem to get good reports I've assumed that discounted prices are A Good Thing, IF you happen to be in the market for a complete set.
Professional 150 Piece Socket / Ratchet set was £199.99 now £99.99
127 Piece Aluminium Tool Chest was £149.99, now £99.99 (This doesn't actually say it's from the Professional range).
Note the facilities to 'Reserve and Collect' or 'Home / Work Delivery' if suitable for you.
HTH
-
The 'laugh' is that, when you view the Ebay details it has words to the effect that it was 'previously removed to find true value'.
If you then do an Advanced Search on Completed Items from seller Gonaf the single return is this vehicle, priced at £100 more (so £2800) and the sale ended 21st April.
Draw your own conclusions.
It's worth what the Market will pay, not what a replacement would cost to build.
Perhaps there are people in the Isle if Wight that will pay for this toy, but I'd say it's a small market for a 'pick-up only' item.
-
This reads to me as though April 1st came late this year.
Thankyou for sharing.
-
Have you tried asking on a more 'LPG specific' forum?
Obviously you may run into flak from trade people, or the LPGA itself, if you so blatantly request a free copy, so you might like to remove the the 'f' word, just say you want to check it complies, etc.
http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/ is the one I had in mind.
I'm not a regular visitor, so don't have current experience of the site and forum contents, I merely had it booked from several years ago.
HTH
300Tdi VGT project
in International Forum
Posted
I think the description of the VNT in the L332 manual makes relevant reading.
Variable Nozzle Turbine (VNT)
The VNT makes it possible to vary the exhaust gas flow of turbine by changing the angle that the turbine guide vanes
are set at. With the guide vanes in a closed position, the exhaust gas flow is reduced and the gas flow to the turbine
wheel is increased. This results in increased boost pressure.
The boost pressure sensor provides a feed back signal to the ECM relative to the inlet manifold pressure. The ECM
also calculates engine load and uses this along with the boost pressure sensor signal to send a PWM signal to the
boost control solenoid valve to determine the amount of vacuum supplied to the boost control vacuum actuator on the
turbocharger. The amount of vacuum operates between 0 mbar and 640 mbar depression. At 640 mbar the vanes
are fully closed providing maximum boost.
You don't have the relevant ECM, so for your DIY project, I suggest a different control system.
The standard default is vanes wide open, which means you have to close them at tickover, something you can never do with the boost control system you are trying now, as there is zero boost at idle rpm with the vanes wide open.
If you maladjust it so you do get boost at low rpm, as the boost increases it closes the vanes, and chokes the engine.
Change the default to vanes fully closed, perhaps by re-jigging whatever spring mechanism in the VNT currently drives them fully open, or by spring loaded actuator. This will give you the conditions for maximum boost at minimum gas flow. As the boost rises it forces the actuator open against the spring, driving the vanes open.
The initial choice of spring may prove interesting, as it will involve the calculation of the force the actuator expresses, which is a function of the boost pressure AND the area of the actuator diaphragm.
You may also need a dump valve to limit maximum boost, or to act as a safety valve at least.
MAY need; personally I don't think so, but not having one probably means there is less leeway when selecting the spring.
There is an element of fail safe in this setup.
If the boost sensing pipe to the actuator fails, or the actuator fails, or it's nuts fall off, such that the vanes go to the default position of full boost, as you have already found, the ability of the turbine to flow exhaust is severely compromised, to the extent that the engine is choked. In this condition it cannot speed itself to the point it separates into it's component elements.
HTH