David Sparkes
-
Posts
2,538 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by David Sparkes
-
-
In your first post you say "... it's only been a problem for the last week or so.".
What exactly makes you think there is a problem? That it isn't 'kicking in'?
Why do you think it should 'kick in' in the current UK weather conditions?
None of the circumstances you have described, continual idling, idling after a 60 mph run, etc, make me think the VC would have 'kicked in', in the current UK temperatures.
I have run a VC equipped Diesel LR for the last 9 years, experienced fan VC failure once, and have answered numerous queries about them on different LR Forums.
"after a run up the motorway, when left at idle the engine temperature will increase into the black section of the gauge"
Give me more information about your gauge please.
What colour is Cold; White?
Where is the centre position, needle straight up, or straight down, or horizontal?
The central area is what colour; Black?
High temperature is Red?
When you are doing 60mph down the motorway, is the needle at the central position? A needle width 'cooler'?
If you want to know what a 'kicked in' or 'locked' fan VC sounds and feels like, turn the fan by hand after the car has been standing unused and outside overnight. Even better if there is an overnight frost. The resistance you feel is close to the resistance when very hot.
Now start the engine, immediately speed it to 2000 ish rpm. The wind noise you hear, and the air movement you feel, (by holding a hand above the space between radiator and engine) is what happens when the VC is very hot and the VC has 'kicked in' or 'locked'.
Now let the engine tickover and listen to the wind noise from the fan. After 2 / 3 minutes the wind noise and air movement will drop.
Stop the engine and spin the fan, the resistance should be markedly less than than your first test, and is what you should feel in any condition from after just 5 minutes running, up to normal temperature.
Now, in what way is your fan not complying with the description I've just given?
HTH
-
"Errrrr.... could you rephrase that question?"
At a guess I am assuming he is asking if the viscous fan spanner from another vehicle fits?"
My guess is that he was asking if Fan VCs from a different car can be used, which, like getting a spanner from a nearby store, can depend on where in the world he is living.
Looking at his previous posts, he is in Germany, and has a 110 Tdi 1997 Station Wagon HardTop.
So, answering my own interpretation, I'd say he could try a fan VC from a BMW or Merc, although I know little or nothing about them. From my previous experience the 'new' VC must come off a Diesel engine, not a petrol engine, as the VC from a Diesel will be designed to work at lower engine speeds.
Is there a future in this - Write your own questions, then answer them? :-))
I suppose it could be worse, we could start arguing about the answers!!
Cheers.
-
If you read on the Glencoyne site, he offers the information that the block was improved after a certain number, 'eliminating' the problem suffred by the early engine.
Turner Engineering will also be able to offer advice.
Cheers.
-
Thanks Tuko for those pictures.
My analysis of them is that the basic mount (the rubber block) isn't as 'sophisticated' as the 200TDi mount, BUT the problem of excessive movement given by an absorbant (soft) rubber has been dealt with by a combination of the extra rubber ears and the metal cage provided by the engine bracket.
Thus, in a non-standard installation, using just the 300TDi rubber mount seems easier to accomodate than it first appears.
As an extra, either the excessive movement could be accepted (until proved damaging), or a standard engine bracket could be modified by adding a similar cage.
Thus I'm thinking that the 300TDi rubber, may be more suitable to use in a Series installation, compared to starting with a 200TDi 'rubber', which appears to be like a Metalastic bush.
As you say, a physical inspection / comparison has to be the next step.
Cheers
-
I've watched the thread grow from a couple of posts to 40 posts, and several times I've thought of throwing something in, then decided against it.
Having now read the more recent posts from the different Moderators I think they have clarified everything for me, and I'm more than happy for them to maintain the policies they have outlined.
If I had a personal wish it would be to disable emoticons completely. My view is they are just an additional unecessary source of misunderstanding, but I'll happily lose that point, and keep the Forum standards as described, PROVIDING the Moderators can maintain the enthusiasm to keep tight to the line they have described.
BogMonster brought up the subject of numbers. I've noted the Membership numbers go over 8,500, but I have wondered how many different individuals visit the Forum in any 7 day period. Obviously any answer will be approximate, but it might just help people get a grip on reality if they realised they should be writing as though a thousand people will read the post, instead of aiming the content at a close circle of people, with the shorthand and 'private jokiness' that goes with a small group (almost wrote clique).
So, stick to your guns, and thanks for displaying more restraint than I would, if I was mistakenly in your shoes!!
Cheers
-
It's a couple of decades since I was running the 1798cc MGB, but I seem to recall that the most common cause of OD malfunction, as mentioned in Club magazines, was an electrical fault, so that mirrors the experiences recounted by others in this thread.
I also met someone whose OD problem was cured when the gearbox was topped up with oil.
At that time, there was no electronic control, so I have no experience of that.
Because the MGB didn't have a low ratio gearbox it was enough to limit the operation to 3rd and 4th, when the road speed, and thus gearbox output shaft speed, was sufficient to drive the pump fast enough to create the pressure required.
To accomadate the increased torque the MGB V8 had OD only on 4th gear.
The (MGB) OD manual I have does show test pressures, but to quote them here would be misleading. It's better for the information to be missing or accurate, rather than 'perhaps'.
Cheers.
-
I have so far: .... changed the oil ....
On test drive, still the same, it won't engage until over 50mph, and still surges in and out, (no light on gear knob though) as the speed fluctuates around 50-55mph, above that speed it holds it in and is fine.
Even above 50mph is still hesitates a while before engaging the OD.
Any help greatly appreciated - if someone wants to stretch to a sketch that would be great.
Obviously I am concentrating on one aspect.
When I first posted in this thread I wasn't sure of the exact arrangements. Having seen the pictures posted here I now feel more confident in making definate statements.
The overdrive operates by oil pressure.
This pressure is created by a plunger pump that runs off the OD Input shaft. This is the 'same' as the gearbox output shaft, and therefore the speed of shaft rotation reflects the road speed of the vehicle, not the engine speed.
Given the slow engagement above 50 mph, and the surging when the speed is close to 50, my suggestions are all based around the fact that there is not enough oil pressure.
Causes for this could be the wrong oil, a worn pump, a badly seating solenoid valve, a leaking pressure relief valve.
I'd discount worn clutch linings, as these would allow slipping at all speeds when the OD is engaged, whereas the symptoms point towards oil pressure not building until the pump speed increases. This could actually be insufficient oil flow, where in conditions of low flow (50mph) the pump is not capable of compensating for the leakage through poorly seated valves.
To recap normal operation.
The pump runs all the time, but because the solenoid controlled valve is open, the oil is leaked off into the bottom of the OD housing.
When the solenoid is operated, the valve closes the leak off path.
The pump now builds pressure, to the extent that the return springs are overcome, and the clutch is moved into it's operated position.
The pump continues to build pressure until a spring loaded pressure relief valve opens, this maintains the pressure at a constant high level.
When the electrical operate path for the solenoid is broken, the solenoid controlled valve is released, opening the leak off port, causing the oil pressure to drop to zero.
The restore springs force the clutch from it's operated to it's normal position.
My conclusion is that initially you check the oil is of the correct viscosity (which doesn't just mean 'is it the same as that oil you drained out?').
The MGB gearbox used 20/50 engine oil, not the thicker EP oil. The provision of a double lipped oil seal between the gear box and the OD suggests the oils could have been of different grades, or it could have meant they just wanted a better chance of keeping the OD oil clean.
Next you strip and clean the pump and the valves.
I think you can do this without removing the OD, as there are access plugs in the side of the unit, adjacent to the plate with the magnetic filter. I'm not sure if there is a gauze filter, as well as the magnetic one, but if there is, a blocked filter is another possible cause of low flow and pressure.
For these last details to be clarified and confirmed you need someone with the appropriate manual, or hands on experience.
Cheers.
-
Tell me when you're ready to be spoon fed with the right link that includes the missing chapters (sample).
You're certainly old enough to search before asking, which is great, but maybe not old enough to find what you're after
:P (SFT).I thought I'd made it clear that I had access to the information, but thanks for your offer.
The phrase 'old-fashioned' was to indicate an attitude, not an age, as you used it.
Cheers.
PS, You will notice that I make very little use of emoticons, as I've found them too easily misunderstood. We have enough problems with words.
-
Is the issue of Landrover getting upset with somone for producing them so big? Will they hunt you down and take you to court if you do host manuals online?
Written in the last 6 months by a Moderator on another Forum concentrating on Land Rover products.
"Unfortunately someone on the Sport site thought it would be cool to sell copied DVD navigation discs to his fellow Sport members. Even after a few folks saying this was not a good thing to be doing we were paid a visit from an legal gent regarding intellectual property rights. To be on the safe side we pulled all the download links to LR goods. It was an example of one bad apple ruining it for the bunch."
As someone reportedly said "Feeling lucky?".
Cheers.
-
The original question has been answered, so just for a smile, and to reinforce the point that hosting can be a hassle....
The other day I wanted to look up some Series 1 information, and I found two sites hosting S1 Workshop Manuals. (I'm old fashioned enough to try my own fishing, before asking to be spoon fed simple stuff).
I downloaded one, only to find that the section about the front axle was missing completely.
I went to the other site, and that was the same :-)
I don't know who was first, but I thought it ironic, all available for minimal effort (free), except the bit you actually need!!
I've a friend who owns both an S1 and a Manual, so I've shared the joke with him, and given him the taskette, so I'm not looking for a response here.
A similar query had me looking for a Series 3 Workshop Manual.
I found one that was almost complete, but they had left out the front page, so I don't know which years it covers. They have split the online files into handy bite sized pieces, but haven't put the file split points at the Section breaks, so that to look up the Brakes section, for example, the reader is never sure which file to open.
Attempting a quality job always takes that bit more effort, but so many people either don't realise it, or can't be bothered.
Spelling? Punctuation?
Who said that? Not me (coughing) :-))
Cheers.
-
I'm assuming you are UK based.
If you want to continue treating this as a P38A enquiry, you will find people who are more 38A biased on the 4.0/4.6/P38A Forum on http://www.Rangerovers.net
Although it's an American biassed site, there are a fair number of UK based owners who contribute.
There will be no harm looking on the main site, although the American bias may show in recomendations to fit US sourced Alternators.
An alternative is to reword your requirement by placing the Range Rover reference as a last line, and repost the query into the more widely read International section of this site.
A third alternative is to seek a stockist of spare parts for Bosch alternators, and post on the Car Mechanics site, although this isn't a whole hearted recommendation as there are some people on there who are more intent on 'smart' answers (who I think it's best to ignore).
http://www.carmechanicsmag.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl
Put in the Bosch details you have, just recognise that the 38A isn't the most common vehicle they come across, which is why is suggest concentrationg on the Bosch angle. A lot of the responders are mechanics.
I'm assuming you have Googled '+bosch +alternator +spares' and found nothing useful.
HTH
-
I understand (have read on a forum somewhere) that the seals with metal reinforcing are the visible sign of a Heavy Duty HS joint, possibly more resistant to damage when operating in mud and gunge.
However, a prudent person would ask the question of HS, not rely on someone on t'internet.
If it's true then it's down to a purchaser to decide what price premium is worth paying for them.
HTH
-
has no one else picked up on this:
Yes, but apart from Mo's, no further comment was neccessary.
:-))
-
OK, I've just looked up the paper information I had, and turned up a letter from Laycock dated 1975 in response to an enquiry I had made about upgrading the overdrive to go with an overbored B series engine.
They responded with positive advice, and the obligatory caution, together with a service guide for an LH Type OD, so that's obviously what was installed at that time.
They pointed out that the 3.5 V8 MGB was configured to have OD on 4th only, whereas I had the 1800 4 cylinder.
Cheers
-
Treading carefully here ...
Going on the clues in this thread, the GKN is electrically controlled, and must be disengaged before selecting reverse. There is also a minimum speed limit before it will engage.
The MGB I used to have had a Laycock OD with the same limitations.
I'm wondering if these are essentially the same units.
In MGB format it was electrically controlled. The circuit contained a simple switch which only worked in 3rd and 4th, this took care of the minimum speed and reverse requirements.
The OD shared it's oil supply with the main gearbox. The specified oil was engine oil, not gear oil.
There was a magnetic plate fixed to the inside of a bottom cover. This collected a dark grey gunge, and you didn't realise how much there was until you came to wipe it off.
Gear selection was done by a cone clutch, operated hydraulically from a pump on the OD input shaft. The electrical control merely operated a solenoid, which when operated, closed a leak-off path, putting the pump output onto the operating pistons.
Does this sound at all familiar?
-
I think I messed up earlier. (Understatement!)
I now understand the GKN Overdrive to be electrically operated, whereas the information I posted is about a mechanically operated OD under a BL badge. I was guessing the BL badge meant it would be the GKN unit - Wrong guess.
Not only that, but it's mainly a Parts list with Installation instructions, although there are some user instructions on the last page.
-
Im looking for a Defender 90 one for the new SLOTH defender, sorry PUMA i mean
For something that new, http://www.landRoverTechInfo.com as the manuals have never appeared on CD.
Assuming you want a Workshop Manual, you will have to pay, but you will have to research the site to find out how much :-)
Owners Handbooks come free, and can be accessed via the same link.
-
Almost every Military man who served in WWII, and made it to the Telegraph obituary column.
They are the people who humble me.
-
Most of the 'exploded' parts diagrams that I included in my replies comes from my EPC disks.
I've seen your write ups in the Tech archive about using EPC with XP and Vista, and I know some people prefer it to Microcat, but I haven't seen an on-line source that an American could use to pick-up a copy, so I didn't mention it. Do you know of one?
I don't recall ever culling a picture from Microcat, I'm sure it has a 'print image' option, so perhaps I could print to the PDF995 application to derive a file copy.
Belay that, I did one for that TD5 leak thread, so it is possible :-))
-
Does anyone know an on-line source for the manual for GKN overdrive unit?
Preferably use / fault finding / repair - not too bothered about the installation side.
Cheers,
Prefer what you like, you get what you're given :-))
I found this the other day, but can't recall where, some non-English language personal site with a load of broken links and a pinkish Series LR, which probably explains why I didn't bother bookmarking the site!
Hope it suits.
-
Need some sort of manual for a 83/84 Defender 110'. The more detailed the better, I do love some pictures
. Also where do these handy exploded diagrams I've seen on the forum with LR part numbers come from? The LR manual perhaps? Anywhere I can get one (CD is ok, would prefer book, can't bring computer out the garage) that isn't quite so expensive? Thanks.Several Pointers here, and I do bear in mind that different people have different preferences, so I'm not saying you MUST follow a course of action, just presenting alternatives.
PC in the garage.
You would not be the first person to obtain a cast off PC, probably a laptop is the most versatile, so you can use it in the garage.
Whether you get it from a friend who has just thrown an ex-works one in a cupboard, say; or whether you buy one off an auction site, small ad, local computer store, etc, just depends on personal circumstances.
Pictures.
Whether the manual has pictures is an unalterable given, we cannot change what is in the product.
Parts information is separate to Workshop manuals.
Sourcing.
Starting with free, the first place I look is Green Oval, RAVE CD 2 covers the Defender. http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?opt...3&Itemid=29
Points to be aware of:
RAVE was ONLY ever produced for use by Dealers. Every copy you see is an unofficial rip-off.
You need to be computer literate enough to convert the Image file into a CD (then copy CD contents to your hard drive as a perfect mirror, and run from the rave.exe file on your Hard Drive. The physical CD is your back-up).
The CD was produced in 1995, or thereabouts. There may be differences between that and your 83/84, but I can't tell, not having that detailed knowledge.
Parts info isn't as readily available, but Green Oval has Microcat so consider taking that. There is a learning curve to operating the software.
Other Free Sources.
Look in the Tech Archive in this Forum, there are leads to different sites, PDF Town is one, another has 'ee' in the url and that's how I recognise it. Both these tend to be private scans of paper books, whereas RAVE is the Land Rover version, and is more professional.
You may find other sites with the same files copied on to them.
A Pukka Source.
These are available from different retailers, but the closest to Land Rover Home is 'Gaydon', the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust.
These CD's are scans of original books, but include 'everything', Owners Handbook, Workshop Manuals, Parts listings, Accessory lists, Special Model Supplements, anything and everything they had to hand.
You won't find a more complete source of information anywhere, without buying original paper copies from secondhand stalls.
I've never seen Technical or Service Bulletins for these older vehicles being available on-line or on CD.
The Heritage CDs are professionally produced, but copy protected to the nth degree. You cannot Copy / Paste, although you can print from them. If you want to copy a diagram to post on a Forum Question you have to use a utility like PDF995, which you install as a Printer. A 'print' to that printer becomes a crippled PDF file on your hard drive, which you can then copy as required.
You HAVE to have the CD in the drive while using these. People will tell you they can copy Games CDs so they can copy these. Don't believe them.
Personally, for my 38A I have always used RAVE, occasionally printing pages as required.
For Series 2 information I have the Gaydon CD, but struggle to find information, partially due to the idiosyncratic Indexing created by the CD compilers (an outside firm). Thus, when I had access to a Works printer I printed off the Workshop Manual and use that. I tend not to use the parts information, so stick with the CD for the rare occasions I want to look up outdated information.
Land Rover 90, 110 & 127 1983 to 1989 is on the page http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/sho...r-bm/index.html but if I were you I'd browse the shop as there may be other knick-knacks you will want at the same time.
I think that covers everything you have asked.
-
After seeing the first couple of posts in this thread I threw the BBC report onto the Glass Forum, partly to see what 'Glass' knew, partly to raise awareness if it didn't exist, and partly so a 'Glass reaction' could be discussed, bearing in mind we are all volunteers.
The Glass reaction was that IF, IF, the situation was as reported then any Police Enforcement has our full support.
The local guy came back quickly, once to say he was on the case, secondly with the Police reaction.
"Police are already active in the area and this may well be an isolated incident that is related to other types pf off road vehicles, in the meantime you can see the police link here:
http://www.durham.police.uk/press/news.php?id=525 ".
I spotted the date of the Press Release seemed irelevant, but after further thought my assesment is that the Police are saying:
'It's too early to give a definative statement about this particular incident.'
'The Police are aware of, and do react to, anti-social use of cars. For instance, this is a operation they have conducted previously. (Underlying message: You should feel safe, we have a measure of control).'
This makes the November date logical, as it relates to a "two month period over the summer.".
If anyone local has hard information from a more relaxed official source, then please post up, thanks.
-
First a word of thanks to the Forum management, that they have got on top of the Software to the extent that we (the mere mortal punters) are able to post a 'ginormous' picture without bringing the download of the topic to a halt, as the thumbnail is produced automatically.
I don't recall another forum that will allow users to post pictures directly to the forum, and handle them so expiditously (with speed and efficiency - I thought I'd better check :-)).
Thankyou gents.
I can see that.....From the attached photo you can see that the coolant is actually running down the lhs of the engine and onto the sump which is now quite stained with anti-freeze.
I can see that.In the background of the photo you can see that one of the bolts on what I assume to be the rear of the water pump is quite wet, and looks to be the source of the leak.
I can NOT identify either the metal pipe, or the drain plug. Blowing the picture up twice I can see what to me looks like a red/orange rusty mark, close to a black arc outline, the mass of which is hidden in shadow; is that what you are referring to?There is also a small amount of coolant seeping through one of the other metal pipes on the underside of the engine close to the coolant drain plug due (I believe) to corrosion.I think others have more relevant experience than I on which to base answers, particularly wrt testing the coolant for combustion gases.
Cheers
-
A Technical Forum Peer Review, he says with tongue in cheek.
A standard Range Rover Classic, fitted with a VC.
Gearbox and Transfer Case in the car, both propshafts connected.
Both rear wheels on the deck, with handbrake firmly applied, so the rear wheels cannot rotate.
One front wheel on the deck, chocked so it cannot rotate.
The other front wheel in the air.
What torque settings would you have to apply to the hub nut of the airborne wheel to simulate 15 and 20 lbf-ft at the VC front propshaft flange securing nut?
For bonus points, in which direction would the torque be applied to the hub nut it order to give the Clockwise application specified at the VC, and would this be the same for a 38A as for a Classic, given that the axle differentials are on different sides of the car?
Cheers.
:P 
. Also where do these handy exploded diagrams I've seen on the forum with LR part numbers come from? The LR manual perhaps? Anywhere I can get one (CD is ok, would prefer book, can't bring computer out the garage) that isn't quite so expensive? Thanks.
Viscous Fan
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
OK, that's what I'd expect.
OK, on the assumption that the gauge and sensor is good, I can see why you think there is a problem.
I'd agree with your reasoning, and with the needle in the thin black I'd expect a blip on the throttle (to about 2500 / 3000 rpm) to create a noticeable roar from the fan, so loud you would hear it from the driving seat, with the bonnet closed.
Yes, I'd go with that.This result does depend so much when you test it.
With a overnight stand the fluid collects in the bottom of the VC, and locks the inner and outer together. This gives a strong resistance.
The initial 5 minutes running, even just at tickover, centrifuges the oil to it's correct position, creating a weak bond between inner and outer, making the blades easy to turn manually, allowing a lot of slippage when the engine is running.
When the very hot air from the radiator hits the VC, a thermally operated valve opens, and the oil flows to make a strong bond between the inner and outer, forcing the blades (connected to the outer) to move at the fast speed of the inner, thus moving more air.
Unfortunately, a lot of this is relative, until you have gained the experience of what feels good, and what feels bad, it is difficult to be certain what you have.
OK, have you rechecked for an airlock - ie, does the heater produce a good strong output, or at least, do both pipes get hot?
Does turning the heater fan on high pull the engine temperature down when it's near or in the black?
When the gauge is in the black, or the red, does the engine smell hot? With the gauge that far over the heat should be radiating strongly from the block and hit you in the face when you open the bonnet.
You mentioned Rimmers, while a good reputation for service is reported on forums, particularly for overseas customers, they aren't the cheapest place. Get a Paddocks price, it will probably be a Britpart unit, but I've run one for years with no regrets. Unfortunately I don't know your area, so can't comment on any local suppliers. Now you have found Rimmers you will have a part number.
Also look for a new sensor.
Presumably there has been no other recent changes or problems that are apparently unconnected?
I'm not jumping one way or the other just yet about the VC. If it is that I'll expect you to say the engine smells hot, and that drawing heat out via the heater (windows open to let it escape), keeps the temperature under control.
VCs generally fail by slowly leaking oil (look for a very dirty front face, and oily dirt on your fingers after touching the blades), or they seize almost solid, in which case they make lots of wind roar. Sometimes the bearings go, but you would have felt the blades wobble if that was the case.
Good Luck.