David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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David
I presume with a name like yours an LPG is out of the question!
John
It's funny you should say that. (And it's better than magic piano jokes!)
I started running LPG in June 2001 - LPG as a supplement to Diesel.
I stopped this in March 2004.
Since then I've run 'pure' Diesel.
:-)
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Mount extra lights higher than your headlights, aim them sharply down, so the beam cut-off is no further ahead of your car than your normal dip beam cut-off (on a level road), and there will be some benefit due to the steeper relative angle of the light beam (shining into the shadow caused by the dip beam), but even then I'm not convinced about HIDs for use on uneven surfaces.
I realised I missed a bit from this earlier response.
If, in the future, I mount fog lights at the top of the windscreen, for after dark Green Lane work, I will arrange the housing and lens so the sharp cut-off is at the bottom of the light pattern, IE all the light shining ABOVE the cut-off, not below, as is the normal orientation of fog lights.
I will then aim the lamp downwards so the cut-off line just clears the leading edge of the bonnet.
This arrangement will stop wasting light illuminating the bonnet (and dazzling the driver), but will give the best possible downlight to eradicate the shadows caused by the dipped headlights.
HTH.
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These HID's are a bit different, trust me you'll be able to see where you're going with them
On metalled roads, or un-metalled roads, AKA Green Lanes?
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Does this mean you drive around with your lights off then David?
Now you know that isn't so.Expanding the thoughts behind my comment.
I took 'HIDs for off road' to mean just that.
On a bumpy surface any depression becomes a shadow, due to the relatively shallow angle of the headlights. It's difficult to see whether the shadow is hiding a shallow dip, or a sudden 6" drop. Shining a brighter light causes the eye to close down, to avoid dazzle, so the shadow appears darker.
Thus I'm not convinced that HID is a benefit when you can't guarantee that everything is lit. Mount extra lights higher than your headlights, aim them sharply down, so the beam cut-off is no further ahead of your car than your normal dip beam cut-off (on a level road), and there will be some benefit due to the steeper relative angle of the light beam (shining into the shadow caused by the dip beam), but even then I'm not convinced about HIDs for use on uneven surfaces.
As it happens, I've tried HIDs as headlights, and gone back to Philips Silverstar conventional bulbs. The dip beam HID gives a brighter light, turning the tarmac almost white, but I can see there anyway, so there was no practical advantage, and some disadvantage.
Cheers.
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...
So the question is where is the earth for the right hand side heated screen?
On the diagram above its "header earth 0018 (K108)"
See the last picture in the set, the one that shows C018?
That's it.
I know the diagram shows C0018, but hey, it's a Land Rover!
Mind you, I doubt that the problem is with the earth under the fascia, behind the kick panel (C018).
I suspect there was a high resistance in the connector you have found all black and burnt. It might have got wet and corroded before it got black and burnt.
Vehicle Wiring Products might sell those connectors, or you can bodge something up with a screw connection block, liberally covering it with Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) after you have proved it works.
Good Luck.
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Being a bright spark ... don't you find that brighter lights mean darker shadows, and it's in the shadows that unpleasantness hides?
I'm just reflecting my slight experience of night time trips away from smooth metalled roads.
Regards,
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Posted because plenty of Land Rover drivers are keen on LPG fuelled vehicles.
LPG car explodes as driver lights cigarette ... a miraculous escape when his LPG-powered car exploded in a fireball as he lit a cigarette.
"Mr Tidbury has ruled out buying another LPG car"
We can smile about this because ... "When I walked past that car to get in the ambulance I thought that was not survivable. For me it is miraculous."
IE, he walked away.
Full story (with picture) at : http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/332910...-cigarette.html
Peter Tidbury had just filled his Peugeot 607 with 40 litres of gas at a service station and was driving at around 30mph.
He could smell gas in the car and passed it off as remnants from the petrol station, but it was in fact a cloud of fuel in the cabin.
Mr Tidbury decided to smoke a cigarette and the second he ignited the lighter, its flame sparked a fireball.
The windows were blown out and the bonnet and boot were thrown open by the force of the blast.
Nearby householders were evacuated for fear of a further explosion and the windscreen was discovered 50 feet away.
His clothes melted on him and firefighters believe he survived serious injury or death because the seats took the force of the explosion.
He had bought the car privately for £5,000 three weeks earlier, and two garage checks gave it a clean bill of health before he got behind the wheel.
Mr Tidbury, 55, an energy-saving company manager, who needed hospital treatment for minor flash burns, said: "It just wasn't my day to die."
Mr Tidbury, a widower from south-east London, drove to northern England last weekend to visiting his daughter and friends.
After visiting a website to locate a filling station selling LPG, he filled up in Monk Bretton, Barnsley, South Yorkshire.
He said: "I was told you get a slight smell of gas when you fill up so thought nothing of it and wound the window down to freshen the air, then wound it put it back up again.
"I fancied a fag so wound the window down again slightly and then lit up. I was doing about 30mph and as I lit the cigarette there was an almighty explosion.
"The windows went out, the bonnet went up and the boot went up just as you see in the Hollywood movies. I was belted in and braked sharply. I can't remember this but I was told that I was directing traffic around the car whilst my suit jacket was still smoking.
"The fireball singed me on my face, hands and legs and melted my jacket lining and some of my shirt. I looked as if a firework had exploded in my face."
It is thought a leak in the pipe from the filler to the fuel tank allowed gas to seep into the car which ignited when he lit up.
He added: "When I walked past that car to get in the ambulance I thought that was not survivable. For me it is miraculous."
Mr Tidbury has ruled out buying another LPG car and intends to quit smoking.
Fire station watch manager Neil McQuillan said: "The car looked like a hand grenade had gone off in it. How anyone can survive an explosion like that when the car is severely damaged is remarkable really."
What problems have you survived this week?
Cheers.
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whats the blue stuff that goes on the gasket when attaching manifold to engine ?
(looks similar to the red stuff used on 1/2shafts & axles)
Blue Hylomar, the other is Red Hylomar, and there is (was?) also a Green version.
www.hylomar.co.uk/
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A quick Google came up with this.
Pete.
Interesting article; I was struck by the last sentance "The advances in thermal spraying over the past 10 years, ...".
Just below that it says the article was written in 2000, so we can expect more advances to have taken place in the last 8 years, which is why they have finally got round to Land Rover swivels :-)
My immediate reaction on reading the original post by Les was to conclude that a satin finish is naturally microscopically rougher than a hard chrome surface, and thus the surface might well hold more lubricant (whether oil, or grease) and thus give a longer life to seals.
I don't know if those conclusions are correct, but I just thought I'd share :-)
The fact, from the article, that spray chrome doesn't have micro-cracks, letting water through to the substrate, and allowing rusting to start, must surely be good news, and answer some complaints from recent years about premature failure.
Cheers.
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I would normally say that the Receiver change is to stop the BECM being triggered by the wrong signals, like your mates key fob. I'd say change the receiver anyway for the latter type, to get rid of a known problem.
Note that someone (even a neighbour) fitting a piece of domestic wireless hardware can also cause false triggering. 'Domestic Wireless' EXCLUDES wireless networking for PCs, that works on a totally separate frequency. I mean a weather station, door bell, baby monitor, garage door remote, that sort of thing.
I wouldn't normally blame the Receiver for the high standing current drain, but it has to be said that AllyV8 has more vehicles through his hands than I do through mine.
Pursuing the high current drain (200mA instead of 20mA) or 0.2A instead of 0.020A.
Have you any additional of non-standard electrical equipment on the vehicle (phone, better radio, DVD plaver, etc)?
Did this problem come to light suddenly, or has it always happened while ever you have had the car?
Do you always leave the gearbox in Park when you leave it? (As stipulated in the Workshop Manual).
HTH.
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Hi,
Ive got one of those cut out switches! Unfortunately its taken me two years to fit. In that time i lost the diagram and cant remember figure out how the alternator end bit is connected. Do you have a diagram that i could look at? (I have already hooked up battery part).
Cheers for your help.
Technical Archive, from a long thread all about Battery cutoffs to cope with winches and competitions.
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Tescos Liphook sold out
David this is all your fault advertising this
Mmmmm next nearest Tescos is........... ?
Nige
Nige
Just remember I am reading my subscription copy of the magazine, delivered by post today.
The shop copies of the NOVEMBER issue may not have been delivered to the shops yet.
Good Luck.
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I was on the understanding that 200/300 injectors were 2 stage so had to be tested by a specialist with the guchi kit. If that's not the case I assume a lot of inj have been thrown away needlessly
I perhaps have provided a 'wrong direction' with my comment which only mentioned diesel injectors.
The writer of the article, and 99.9% of the magazine, is about petrol engined vehicles, so petrol injectors in this case.
The article built the test rig, described cleaning the injectors without flowing fluid through them, then measured the flow (and visually assessed the spray) using cleaning fluid.
Now you ask ... I'm not sure that multi-stage injectors are multi staged within themselves, or whether they just respond to multiple pulses. If the latter, the PWM control is adjustable, so it should be possible to assess response to very short duration pulses. Most injector testing appears to be 'can it flow the correct amount when held fully open?'. Too little indicates a blocked injector, too much indicates an injector with a poor spray pattern (from comments in other articles).
You had me going with your comment about the 300 TDi injectors, so I've just been back to a Defender Workshop Manual.
There is NO electrical connection to the injector, so the rig in the article is not applicable, as I said initially.
I understand some TDi engines have electrical connections to the pump, to control the fuel pulse there, but direct control of the injector is by the pressurised fuel pulse.
HTH.
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Is this for testing common rail injectors? The TD5 injectors need a rig with cam drive and rockers. And they have to run at reasonable pressures. Might have to pick up a copy.
Ed
Yes to the common rail injector question, although it's really 'what do you want to do?'. It's 'your' electronic control, so you can fire them all at once, or independently if you want.
I perhaps have provided a 'wrong direction' with my comment which only mentioned diesel injectors.
The writer of the article, and 99.9% of the magazine, is about petrol engined vehicles, so petrol injectors in this case.
There is no mention of a cam drive etc to get the very high pressures used on TD5 (diesel) injectors.
Cheers
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The November 2008 issue of Practical Performance Car (Performance tuning for grown-ups, it says here) has a 3 page article on building and using one of these, on a very low budget, although how low does depend on what you have available to hand.
My paper subscription copy of the magazine came today, they don't do an internet version, so you will have to go and find your own copy in the paper shop of your choice.
If you are, or intend to, work with secondhand injectors, or just very old ones, this seems like a darned good idea.
This isn't just a static device. The article includes a circuit for a Pulse Width Modulation circuit to drive the injectors while pushing fluid through them.
Just to make it clear, this is for use with electrically controlled injectors, not the hydraulically controlled ones, such as on my BMW 38A, or the 200 / 300 TDi engines.
HTH
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This should cover everything, except what is actually wrong. Note the connectors are outside the cabin.
All from the RAVE CD, get your very own from the Green Oval site. :-)
Cheers
Edited to add the Earth connection points, which are different side to side, and ARE in the Cabin, although they are multi-pin connectors, so I doubt one has fallen off, but a single wire could be broken or pulled out.
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I'm still waiting for the previous owner to give me the manual - it's only been six years so far!
His daughter goes to the same school as mine and he's promised to get it to me soon...I see you have a '95, as such it's on the RAVE CD, which is why I have a copy (never having owned an RRC).
So download your copy from the Green Oval site.
Cheers
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I have the rave CD, but i cannot find service interval data
When you select Disco II, isn't there a section in the LH (Bookmarks) column called PDI and Maintenance?
It's all in there.
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Do I take it that you don't have the Workshop Manual?
I 'thought' all the service requirements were listed in there, but I'm not over familiar with a TD5 engined Discovery.
I suspect it's what I would know as a Disco 2 (or II).
If you haven't got a manual, you want the RAVE CD1 from Green Oval Downloads
http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?opt...3&Itemid=29
Note the guidance there, after downloading the Image file you need to convert it into something readable.
Regards.
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If you can't get hold of a crane, then split the transfer box from the gearbox and lift them out seperately.
Les.
Les,
Considering the tenor of the question, it might be helpful if you can point out in a picture, or describe in words, just exactly 'where' the two units split.
My experience doesn't give me the necessary mental image.
I appreciate I may be doing someone an injustice, but I'm still going to stick my neck out and ask :-)
Cheers.
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I must be missing something here. Why don't the figures in the manual apply?
EG
STEERING PUMP
Make/type - V8i ZF ’Unicorn’ ................................................................
Make/type - Tdi Hobourn Eaton 500 series ................................................................
Operating pressure - straight ahead position - at idle 7 bar, 100 lbf/in 2 maximum ......
Full lock (left or right) at idle 28 bar, 400 lbf/in 2 minimum .............................................
Full lock (left or right) 1000 rev/min 70-77 bar, 1000-1100 lbf/in 2 ..................................
Cheers
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I think this will do you. PC Mirror cct.gif
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In my view, and others may differ, the electrical sensors are the easiest to install, and therefore cheaper. The downside of this is that there are 'lots' of cheap sensors, that have a wide spread of tolerances, and that are only vaguely matched to the gauges. Price therefore becomes your quality guide. For instance, VDO make the sensors used by that EMS kit (sold by X-Eng in the UK) and you can use the price of those as your guide to 'this is what good quality costs'.
You actually mentioned measuring 3 parameters, and although you didn't tell us, I suspect you have a particular supplier in mind. In that case it might help if we knew who that was, or alternatively it might be better if you went to them and asked which version gives the better result.
Re Sensor placement, I can't be specific as I don't know the 300TDi, however the following reflects my experience.
You may be guided by the gauge 'kit'.
Some go for the hottest part that can be accessed outside the engine, often an oil filter sandwich plate or the feed to any oil cooler. Personally I use the sump pan, on the basis that I want to know what temperature the bulk of the oil is at, and when the oil being drawn into the engine is up to temperature. Too cold being as bad, or even worse, than too hot. (In terms of time, longer will be spent at too cold than at too hot).
Obviously, the exciting part is positioning the sensor in the pan, such that it spends most of it's time under the oil, but away from the moving metal bits, and not too vulnerable to outside knocks.
Whether you want to have three gauges on the fascia, or go down to two by using at least one dual gauge, is both a style and a cost question. In seems (although I've yet to use either) that McNally or SPA will do the business in terms of quality, and I'll say that irrespective of what sensors they use. On the other hand, you could end up with well over 200 GBP sitting on your dashboard (without checking prices, that may be over 300 GBP).
Others need to contribute as well, have fun.
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If there is I'll let you know, but I wouldn't think so.
His daughter goes to the same school as mine and he's promised to get it to me soon...
Peaks
in Getting out and about
Posted
Just to advise anyone reading this thread that the Press Release has already featured on the GLASS Forum, and that both the Derbyshire and Peak District reps are dealing.
This is by working with the locals, rather than fighting them.
As anyone who has been involved with any Green Lane works knows, there are both Political and Practical elements to deal with. Press Releases are Political.
I may see one or both of the GLASS guys at the Pub Meet tonight (Monday 3rd Oct, The Grouse at Froggatt, say 8.00 pm onwards).
If tomorrow I can recall any useful update I'll post here. :-)
Cheers.