David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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This is an indirect lead, but try this link http://www.kenner.ca/RoverWeb/mailinglist-...01/01/0001.html
note that it goes back to 2003, and that one of the links is dead, BUT you can see Harald Hansen's email so you could try him directly, or join the list and ask.
Along the same lines, try contacting StrangeRover from this thread.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/arctic-he...cher-21371.html
Cheers.
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The diagram Dappe has copied is taken from a Parts Fiche, although it's labelled as the 90, 110, 127 Catalogue in the main menu, it's a fiche when it opens.
I've found it on a Classic CD '84 to 89, in the Transfer Box section covering the 90, 100, 127, Transmission Brake, Direct Entry Cable. Note this is different to the rod operated brake.
There are two different part numbers for springs (all labelled 2 in the diagram).
Look at the Notes on the right, and the Change Points detailed at the bottom.
They may help the rest of you decide what is going on, I suspect it's a case of all three springs are not fitted at once.
I hope the pdf blows up to a readable size.
Cheers
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Sorry to keep bobbing up, but ...
"The alarm thing is true. If I park next to the house, the wireless internet keeps it awake, and flattens the battery in two days."
No, wireless internet (Wi-Fi) is not the cause, the frequencies used are very different. I did write this up in detail on some forum or other, but it seems more than 12 months ago and I can't recall where.
Miscellaneous domestic wireless functions are all based around the same frequency, so the 38A Security system could be affected by almost anything that boasts a wireless connection, Weather Stations, Door bells, Baby Monitors, Garage door openers, Driveway gate openers. These don't have to be on your property, they can also be on a neighbours property.
The system can also be swamped by strong emissions from industrial sources. My experience was when parking outside Milton Keynes Railway Station. I had to use the key to lock and unlock the car. I changed the receiver and the problem went away.
The current part number will be on Landywiki somewhere.
http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title...er_Interference
"Make sure you get two keys, there are only 4 available, so once you've lost 3 - you are on borrowed time. "
The keys are numbered 1 2 3 4, and when new, carried the appropriate label, but this falls off over time. The Handsets also had different colours. Any lost or broken handset can be replaced by it's own number, but the problem was that owners had no idea which Handset they had, and I'm assured that two handset 2s won't work on the same car. In this case the safest advice was to buy a key 3 or 4, as these were not standard issue. For those cars with Memory Seats and Mirrors the standard issue of Handset 1 & 2 were called His and Hers, and had separate memories associated with them, such that the seat and mirrors moved to the correct position for the Handset that was used.
The two basic colours were Ash Grey and Black, and it is difficult to say which is which when you only have one key. I have both keys, and have developed a test that enables anyone to establish the colour of the Handset they have. This is written up, with pictures, on Rangie.com
http://www.rangie.com/articles_model.php?modelId=2 Look for "P38A Identifying your existing key fob."
Some Americans have reported that all keys are now supplied in the same colour, which is no great surprise, considering the car is obsolete, and Ford Accountants have been involved. On mine, I have engraved the number into the Handset case.
"Rovacom is great for getting/setting faults. But the new one - Rovacom Lite I believe is locked to a VIN number, so you can't share it amongst your mates."
Correct-ish in principle, but not in words.
The original Rovacom was a big Tablet style affair, suitable to withstand Trade use.
It was augmented by the cheaper Rovacom Lite, just an aluminium Server + a little black box. The Customer provided a laptop PC for the screen and keypad. Aimed at the DIY market, although also used by small Independants. Physically this is more fragile than the Rovacom.
The Hardware is obsolete.
The software modules were and are the same, and are shared with the latest offering, so are still supported today.
There have been several alternative packages brought out, but to skip over a couple and end with the current offering, the Faultmate MSV.
This is a single box, fits between the OBDII socket and your PC. It has a plug in Licence Module with 3 identities in it, each of which can be set up in a different style.
Joe, Bill, and Fred have shared the cost of the MSV.
Joe has bought one module, for the 38A EAS, this can be used on Multiple vehicles, and he intends to buy additional modules later.
Bill has bought all the modules for his current 38a, and has saved money by having these licenced to a Single Vevicle.
Fred has bought all the Modules for his L332, licenced for Multiple Vehicles.
I've made up this example just to give an idea.
Note that by buying multiple licence modules, more that three people can share the same Faultmate, although I always warn of the danger of the Faultmate being 40 miles away at your mates house when you NEED it.
To read the manufacturers hyperbole go to http://blackbox-solutions.com/docs/faultmate_msv.pdf
Some functions have more than one possible module (SRS is an example). To get easy to follow guidance on selecting them, plus guidance on dealing with Blackbox Solutions, read the Rovacom Section on LandyWiki.com from beginning to end. You may have to re-read it, but you may also decide that if getting your head round the content is more than you want to cope with, then it's a cheap lesson learned. Better than buying a car you end up not wanting.
http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Main_Page
Note that some independant spirits who meet on the Rangerovers.net 38A forum have created some free software that, with the purchase of cable and plugs (and laptop), allows you to interact with the EAS, to the extent of clearing faults and adjusting ride heights.
If anyone does buy a 38A as a road + weekend warrior, I suggest you combine the service replacement of the suspension airbags with an upgrade to the longer Arnott GenIII bags. Even with the standard shock absorbers the longer bags enable you to increase the Extended ride height, so improving the Ramp and Breakover angles.
I don't see any point of thinking about Megasquirt on this car, unless the technical challenge you want is to match MS into the Security and Automatic Gearbox electronics.
HTH
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"how 'basic' are basic P38's."
Certain > No Traction Control, 2 pin diffs instead of 4 pin rear, no headlight wash/wipe, no sound system Boom box, no CD changer, no navigation system, Alarm receiver prone to interferance, no Cruise Control, no side airbags, no headrest mounted entertainment system, no towbar, no Memory Seats or Mirrors.
Possible > No sunshine roof, AC + Heat, but no Climate Control, Cloth seats instead of Leather, manually adjusted seats, no heated seats (even if they are there, they will be broken).
And of course, only one Handset (Key Remote Fob); replacements are Dealer only. (Keys without the remote are a straight copy by 'anybody').
Rust? Brake pipes, along the rear axle and against RH chassis rail, about where the B pillar is.
Ally corrosion? Bottom edge of lower tailgate.
HTH :-)
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"Seems that the alarm goes into sleep mode but wakes up whenever other key fobs are around. This wakes up the whole BECM. Over a period of a week or so this flattens their batteries. "
IF this is an accurate summary, it's a pity.
I say IF, not because I think V8bertha is telling porkies, but because without words from the owners we don't know what the current state of affairs is. Battery Drain can be caused by other faults, not just the most high tech answer that can be thought of.
I say it's a pity because the 'BECM awakening' cause and potential cures are well known, so it seems a pity to let the faults persist.
The cause is not other fobs, it's interferance from other sources, the most likely of which is Domestic Weather stations with wirelessly connected outside units. Sometimes the external Weather Station can be moved, but otherwise a possible cure is to disconnect the 38A receiver from the aerial, and accept that the 38A Handset will only work in very close proximity to the car. The more expensive but better cure is to upgrade the receiver, but as this costs over £100 a lot of people find it too expensive.
They will spend thousands on a winch bumper, plus winch, plus rope, plus rocksliders, etc, but that's another issue.
Cheers
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mmgemini
Other companies you can go to --- for LED light units, or LED bulb replacements to fit inside standard light units?
I collected some information from a thread asking about NAS style lights and plinths, were you active in that?
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http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Auto-Factory-Manuals
Item Summary - Cars, Parts & Vehicles
Literature Type: Workshop Manuals
Media Type: CD
Vehicle Type: Cars
Manufacturer: Land Rover
Model: Defender
Year: 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999
Pity it misses the 2007 year that Mack was asking about.
Cheers.
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Previously I looked at an 'Export' version of the ETM (1997 Export, 6th Edition).
Now I've looked at an 'English' version (1997 4th Edition).
In Warnings and Indicators', Section E2 in this version, it shows the SRS Indicator Control Circuit of the Instrument Cluster, that deals with the SRS lights (Yes, two of them). The connector to this is a flat 5 way connector (C223), with only three wires (Green, Purple, and Slate).
Did you spot such a loose connector behind the Instrument Panel? The location picture shows it unplugged.
In the Workshop Manual the SRS section contains:
"Two different SRS systems are fitted to Discovery.
The Distributed SRS which has two crash sensors located in the engine compartment on the chassis longitudinals and the Single Point Sensing (SPS) SRS which has a single crash sensor located in the Airbag diagnostic control unit.
The change from distributed SRS to SPS SRS occurred at VINs 198222 and 528977."
Comparing your VIN with the information, would you expect to find twin sensors within the engine compartment?
Cheers
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An interesting question!!
I don't have direct experience of a Discovery 1, as Steve obligingly identied this as, so I'm just 'reading the books' that happen to be included in a RAVE CD.
The Owners manual effectively says there can be one or two airbags, Driver only, or Driver and Passenger.
Do both exist in your car?
The Owners Manual also confirms the SRS warning light as below the digit 3 of the tachometer (to the left of the speedo).
On the basis of what you have found so far (no hole for a warning light), I think it would be useful to check for an 'Air Bag Diagnostic Control Module' situated in the centre console, to the rear of the handbrake lever.
The ETM tells us that it is this ECU which sends the illumination signal to the Instrument Console.
I'm working round to 'proving' the SRS was never fitted, and a previous owner fitted the SRS steering wheel because they liked it, or something!!
Now here's interesting.
The ETM mentions the SRS system, and in section E3, Warning Lights and Indicators (NAS), it mentions the SRS light, BUT, there is no separate section for the SRS, and in neither E3 or E1, Instruments, does it show an SRS warning light.
As a matter of interest, do you have the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for this car?
There must be more to this, but I'll post this first as 'the story so far', it may prompt comment from others.
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Recognising we are just tossing ideas about, not completing a full design in 5 minutes.
Most vehicles (I've seen) for disabled people don't have the rider astride the vehicle, presumably this is a mount / dismount issue. Thus I'd say look at mobility scooters as a design basis.
I'd also go for very big rear drive wheels (motorbike wire spoked, to prove the design?) with a deep sidewall, these would be better to ride / drive over rough terrain, and with suitable tyres (I'm not sure where from, sand tyres perhaps) might do away with the need for suspension, and it's weight disdvantage. Because of the diameter and the need to give elbow room without snagging them in the wheel, the rear axle would be pushed further back, increasing the wheelbase. This would give more stability on gradients, which is a positive move, IMHO.
You will appreciate there are already commercial 'off road' wheelchairs / mobility scooters. Somewhere I've seen reference to an organisation that puts two or three in a covered trailer, delivering them to car parks for people to use.
HTH
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Gemsbok, some interesting and useful points from outside the usual UK centric view.
As a matter of interest, in the circumstances you describe and experience, what is the viability of manuals on a CD, and therefore needing some sort of player to access? Or manuals on a small storage device, such as a PDA?
My view of the UK is that while UK enthusiasts, such as the bulk of the people on this forum, will accept packing a laptop or PDA as almost common, the average UK LR user would object to such an expensive and technical answer. Of course, they are much closer to viable external support, so self reliance is not such an issue.
Cheers.
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Re the correct direction to turn the fixing.
You say 'bolt', do you mean a male bolt, screwing into a female thread?
The fan VCs I've come across have an internally threaded female nut on the back of the VC (back = furthest from the radiator, closest to the water pump). In these cases the shaft of the pump has an external thread, and takes the place of the 'bolt'.
Thus, with a LH thread, and if your 'turning to the right' is as viewed from the front of the car, then I'd say you are turning the nut in the correct direction.
However, Left and Right are always open to mis-interpretaion, depending if you are viewing from the front of the engine, or viewed from the UK convention of 'from the drivers seat'.
I prefer therefore to say you always undo the nut in the same direction the fan normally rotates. ALWAYS.
In order to create the neccessary self tightening functionality, the designer will decide on the basis of the belt run which direction the pump and fan will turn, and therefore the 'hand' of the thread, so these are givens. The rule 'loosen in the same direction the fan rotates' applies whatever decision the designer made.
If your VC is retained by a bolt, then I'm not sure what 'rule' will apply, because I can't immediately see how a self tightening design can be incorporated with a bolt style retainer.
HTH
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My Heritage CD is labelled IIA and IIB, 1961 to 1971, so strictly doesn't cover your question. However, it does prompt a couple.
Basic or Station Wagon?
Petrol or Diesel?
Wheelbase?
In case no one else chips in, from the Owners Manual shown on the CD I've described ....
Weights range from a low of 2,800 lbs for a Basic Petrol 88", to a high of 3,947 for a Diesel 109" Station Wagon.
I see there is a Heritage CD for the SII, 1958 to 1961, so there is a chance of more appropriate information.
Cheers
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Note the notched belt in the pictures, The advantage of this design is that the belt is more flexible, thus wrapping better around small pullies, and being able to transmit more power, than a conventional V belt. Thus, if sticking with a V belt, as opposed a multivee serpentine belt, try to find a notched belt.
HTH
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Probably without you realising it, what you are asking can be re-phrased as:
Has anyone paid to subscribe to the Land Rover Global Technical Resource, taken the time and trouble to download all the Workshop and Electrical Manuals, plus any Technical Bulletins and Service Recalls, then paid to host a site where I can take them for free, while the site holder hopes Land Rover don't prosecute them for copyright infringement on documentation for current models?
Phrased like that, you see why the answer might be 'No'.
The good news is that you, as a private individual, can take out a subscription, for a fairly short term, and do the intensive download of 'everything' before the subscription expires.
http://www.landrovertechinfo.com/extlrprod/index.jsp
The hosting it all for free, etc, is optional :-)
I run obsolete models, so am not faced with these decisions.
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Yes, you could use one outlet with the oiler, and one not.
Exactly how you control the pressure on both lines, I'm not certain.
Most of the Machine Mart tools specify a pressure of 90 psi, or thereabouts. If you regulate to that, or my suggested 80, the tanks starts at 120 and falls over a minute or so to the lower pressure. You don't notice this change as the tool always sees the same pressure. Only after the tank drops below your regulated pressure do you see the effect. With an unregulated output the tool starts fast and slows down all the time; this lack of control becomes irritating with some tools, and might render the paint sprayer useless (MIGHT).
The effect of loss of Pressure / Flow with the regulator? The effect is there, but slight. Given that the regulator flows reasonably well, the advantage of control outweighs the 'cost' of regulation.
Might slow the Impact wrench if you are trying to crack wheel nuts from tight.
The saw might stall if doing long cuts in 2mm steel (Chassis).
Die Grinder will run out of steam sooner, mind you, the abrasive bits won't last 5 minutes of use anyway. Well say 10, to cover myself.
I don't know about the air drill.
Also be aware that while the quick release connections look similar to the common PCL units found at Machine Mart, they are not compatable. The screw-in threads are, but not the quick release end. Use the compressor with the Aldi tools, and you will be OK. Buy tools elsewhere and you will find yourself looking for a MM VAT free day so you can buy up to a dozen ends, and a roll or three of PTFE tape.
Cheers
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If the flow is 270 litres per min, instead of the quoted 27 lpm, that is 9.5 cfm, which on a 2.5 kw motor probable equates to what other people claim, although I haven't checked for certain.
"on the shot blaster, what is the recyclebly bag about because the sand shoots out the end so it wouldnt catch anything would it?"
With a spot blaster the black plastic nozzle you can see is held against the panel that is being spot cleaned. The 'toughened' steel nozzle is at the gun end of the plastic nozzle. Most of the grit therefore drops to the bottom of the plastic nozzle after it bounces off the panel. They have different plastic nozzles so you can select one that does not overlap the edge of the panel, thus you 'never' blow the blasating media into free space.
I've not used one, but that's the theory, which I'll probably be able to prove anytime after Thursday :-))
I use a free standing air filter and regulator. I find it gives more consistant performance if I regulate the pressure down to say 80 psi near the point of use (the other end of the whip hose). Used like that you could use the oiler as well, it's a cost effective way of doing it. I don't use an oiler at the compressor end of the hose, as I don't want the long hose to be contaminated with oil. So yes, starting from scratch, I'd go for that. Do be aware that any regulator / Filter etc will reduce the maximum airflow, but you have to accept this, or spend a lot more money.
I'd use the 3m hose in that kit as a whip hose between the oiler and the tools, that can be contaminated with oil. You will need an uncontaminated hose for paint spraying, spot blasting, and perhaps undersealing. I'm not sure about stapling. The 10 M hose in the kit will do for that. It does say you can split the regulator away from the oiler if required.
This assumes you buy the hose on a reel as the main hose from the compressor to the filter regulator.
If you buy the speed saw it is better to cut down 12" blades that buy the special short ones.
I can't comment on the air gun / ratchet run time as I don't use mine for that.
HTH
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This point was covered before:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...st&p=233388
"It doesn't matter whether the original diff is 2 pinion or 4 pinion. Ashcroft transmissions supply 4 pinion ones that are a universal fit."
Cheers.
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I think you mean what Frost's call a Bead Former.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/25v9j5
Frosts are not the cheapest place, in my experience, but it should give you a starting point, and perhaps some fruitful alternative Search Terms.
An alternative idea, depending on your skill, is to run a line of weld around the tube. My understanding is that the bead doesn't form the sea to the hose. The clamp forms the seal, squeezing the hose onto the smooth pipe. The bead is to stop the clamp sliding off the pipe, so providing the weld doesn't damage the hose as it slides over, the bead doesn't have to be perfectly regular.
HTH
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I know it's 'following someone about', but in the first of the 'new' Difflock magazine there is an article where the Difflock people joined a tour. http://www.difflock.com/magazine/
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Now you have the regulator part number, you can Google that.
http://www.connectstores.com/lr/sp_35020.html
http://www.gce4x4.com/cvf100740-p38-front-...-side-p-33.html
http://www.connectstores.com/lr/sp_35020.html
show alternative pictures.
Any of these people may also have the Door Outstation AMR3358
Door Outstation AMR3358, try any suitable scrapyard.
Ebay has several - http://preview.tinyurl.com/34dq8h
Also try any of these for regulators, though you might have to ask, if they are secondhand they may not ebay them, and you aren't looking for a 5 year life span. You also know what the teeth on a worn regulator look like.
Watch the P&P charges, it may be cheaper to source both items from one place.
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The Heated Seat problems are very very unlikely to be connected to any problem with the windows.
Certainly from your description so far, there is no connection between the two.
A new regulator might be over £100.00, go to the Rimmer Bros site and search in the catalogue. Rimmers list most things.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2ofvvw
Part Number CVF100740
Description REGULATOR-ELECTRIC
Retail Price £122.96 inc. VAT
Part Number CVF100740P
Description REGULATOR-ELECTRIC
Retail Price £76.38 inc. VAT
I don't know exactly what the difference is, one will be 'Land Rover', the other will be 'Pattern'. Phone and ask Rimmers
Use nuts and bolts instead of rivits.
Re the passenger window, if it won't set folowing the standard procedure I can only guess it's a problem with the door outstation. Starting with the window fully closed you hold the down button continuously, until the windows stalls at the bottom for a second. Then hold the up button continuously, until the window stalls at the top for a second.
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"I've looked at this door outstation thingy ... "
Did you look at the regulator teeth while you had the door card off? To see them you need to wind the window partially down, as you are looking at the teeth very near the end of the track.
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Re heated mirrors and seats, my earlier comments apply. You, or the purchaser needs a RAVE CD to take DIY any further.
Re the door windows, I've answered in your other thread, again the manual helps with DIY.
Re someone coming to see it, I suggest you spend today getting prices for having the problems sorted, so you can make an informed decision when it comes to negotiating the price.
Swivel housing
in Series Forum
Posted
Paddocks do both
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Axl..._-_Leather.html
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Axl...t/Bailcast.html
Note that although the rubber gaiters have the Britpart name, they originate from Bailcast, who do lots of similar split rubber products, such a CV joint boots.
I've also seen it is essential to work vaseline (Petroleum Jelly is the cheaper generic product) into the natural leather, to improve it's water resistance.
I have read a suggestion to take a pattern from a pair of leather gaiters, then buy cheap leather jackets from Charity shops and cut new gaiters from them. I've never seen it done.
I chose to fit the rubber gaiters, but haven't put any mileage on them yet.
Cheers.