David Sparkes
-
Posts
2,541 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by David Sparkes
-
-
"my car get's a good deal of use on the M25/A3m ......"
Thanks for that warning, I'll keep well away :-)
Obviously, from my response you have realised that M1 Derbyshire doesn't 'enjoy' the same circumstances. From Junction 27 Southwards they have even imposed 50mph limits, with average speed cameras, while they widen the road to 4 lanes (each way, even !!). Thus we have to learn patience, I think for the next two years. The speed limit does tend to be observed by a large proportion of traffic, so opportunities for expressing individuality are limited.
"a distance you can only see the roof out the rear door at 90 plus."
I've been told a NATO hook, painted bright Yellow, plus the natural braking of a diesel on a closed throttle, helps in these circumstances :-))
Looks like you are stuck with mid to high twenties.
Cheers
-
As an 'outsider' (I don't run a TD5) I'll comment that your Motorway cruising speed of 75 is too fast for best economy in a brick shaped car.
Get out of the lane 3 rat race, run at 65ish, be prepared to drop the speed temporarily while the car / van in front completes a manouvre, instead of impatiently swinging into lane 3 and blasting past, muttering about 'old women', and you will get better economy.
The choice is yours :-)
Cheers
-
"It is the devils own job to get the big brass plug out the bottom to drain the oil."
The implication here is that it's been tightened with a 3 Weetabix grunt in an effort to stop it leaking.
Get some new copper washers, or brake cleaner and blue Hylomar, and use less grunt.
It depends on how badly the slot has been chewed, but either find an existing tool that fits well, to the base of the slot, or shape a piece of 12 to 15" length of steel to fit both the width and depth of the slot. About an inch away from the shaped end, bend the steel at right-angles, and you have a custom tool that will limit your ability to over tighten the plug.
HTH
-
I'm surprised that Hardy Spicer UJs aren't available from Dingocroft, as they normally carry 'quality' stuff. It isn't my local store though.
Paddock Spares have both sorts of UJ's, one of them being Hardy Spicer. Just make sure you specify them when you order. Buying from a motor factors local to you will save on postage, of course.
I have blown a rear diff. It you remove the rear propshaft you can drive around in front wheel drive. I think I did about 150 miles. Beware the handbrake won't hold on a hill as the VC continually slips, unless it's broken into a seized state.
If it is a diff failure you won't have damaged the half shafts, although they will have to come out to change the diff. When they do you will need to make up a rag on a stick the clean the tubes of any metal shards that may be there.
Fitting new axle seals will be good advice.
It doesn't matter whether the original diff is 2 pinion or 4 pinion. Ashcroft transmissions supply 4 pinion ones that are a universal fit.
Tailgate straps - get a part number and Google that, and ask at whoever is local to you. Don't ignore the Dealer. If you know anywhere that deals with wire rope, ask if they will swage new ends on for you.
HTH
-
JimC, thanks for the pointer.
For UK readers, '837' appears to be a generic term, the full 837 range is specified on this page, together with the appropriate complete part numbers.
http://www.flexible-lamps.co.uk/Catalogue/Products/837.htm
If I read this correctly, the purchaser specifies each lamp as a 'pod', then specifies the 'bezel' appropriate to how he wants to install them on his vehicle. My best guess is that, starting from scratch (ie, without NAS lights installed already) we would specify one 'bezel for single function' for EACH pod.
In one of those ironic twists of fate, the Dun-Bri links Simonb put up in post 20 are for the Perei lights that ECR positively prefer not to supply (read the East Coast Rover link put up by JimC in post 25).
Dun-Bri do stock Rubbolite Products, but not the 837 range. http://preview.tinyurl.com/2ethxt
As a matter of interest to JimC, and other NAS readers, try this snippet, note the date.
"November 30, 2006 Falconer New York : It was announced today that Truck-Lite Co. Inc. of Falconer New York has purchased Flexible Lamps Ltd of Harlow, England. Marketing under the Rubbolite and FL brand names, Flexible Lamps is a major manufacturer of incandescent and LED lighting for the commercial vehicle market. Terms of the acquisition were not disclosed."
The full press release is at http://www.flexible-lamps.co.uk/News/main.htm
So with a bit of luck you might be able to source the lights you want without paying 'import' prices.
Sorry to ECR, but the gravy train has to stop sometime :-))
HTH
-
I think it would have been nice if the mods could have chance to discuss the ins and outs of the idea before it was launched on here.
I agree, the same thought has crossed my mind.
You have shown yourselves to be open to new ideas (CAD library) but whatever is suggested, in the end some 'bodies' have to run it, day in, day out, and it depends very much on what those 'bodies' feel comfortable with.
Hopefully we have learnt for the next time, so that even if the next new idea is proposed in the open forum before the Mods have had a chance to consider the implications, we can delay public consultation until you have had that chance.
Cheers.
-
"What purpose would it have in this engine anyway ??"
I think it's worth reviewing the purpose of the valve, be it a ball in a cage, or the ball with a twig.
For the sake of simplicity I will ignore that horrible V8 and it's sideways mounted thermostat.
As you imply, the standard thermostat is fitted 'spring down', and the ball of the bleed valve also hangs down, underneath the horizontal skirt of the thermostat.
The valve is there so that as the engine cools, and the coolant shrinks, the valve will drop, allowing air to flow up, through the top hose, and to the expansion tank in the top of the radiator. Coolant flows the other way through the valve, into the engine block, and the net result is that you don't have an airlock around the temperature sensing element of the thermostat.
As the pump spins, the coolant flow closes the valve, and that is fine. There is some other bypass circuit which allows the warming coolant to flow past the thermostat, even though it's not open, and there is no passage through the radiator. In modern engines this bypass circuit is normally the heater matrix, but in older engines it can be a bypass passage cast as part of the thermostat housing (think Series 2.25 / 2.5 engines).
From what you say the thermostat didn't open on your first run, and I cannot guess why that was. There was clearly some flow as the heater got hot. The only other thng I can think of is that the bleed valve was stuck closed, and there was an airlock beneath the thermostat. This 'stick' could be just one of those things, or poor tolerances in a cheap part, which is where you came in. Taking the thermostat out may have shaken the valve loose, or the action of the test boiling water did it. Now you have removed the ball completely there is clearly no chance of an airlock being created, and although in theory the small permanent hole will delay warm up stightly, I don't suppose it will be that serious, so from now on I suspect you can ignore it.
HTH
-
The TD5 ecu just performs a simple check sum, nothing else. Jeremy Fearn etc are talking out of the derriers when they state the map files are protected. As the ecu just performs this simple check only there is no additional protection.
The fuel map is a reference file only and there is no extra code you can insert etc to run within the ECU to validate map file against the ECU serial etc.
Cheers
Steve
More likely my misunderstanding than Jeremy's misinformation. He does sell more than TD5 maps after all, via a small but international group of re-sellers.
Cheers.
-
The concept of copyright on modified maps is 'interesting'.
Who owns the original map? Did the modifier buy that map, then change it, in which case the modifier might own the modified map.
However, it's likely the modifier did NOT buy the original map, so how can they own the modified map, based as it is on an illegally copied original map.
Thus the first modifier cannot complain, even morally, about someone else taking and using his map, as it's what he did in the first place.
Jim's point about software security is very valid. I think you will find that Superchips maps are protected.
Jeremy Fearn told me that his maps are security coded so that his customers can't buy a tune once and use it several times.
Cheers.
-
When power is supplied via the BECM it it often difficult to identify a specific fuse, sometimes I suspect there isn't one.
The seats appear to be powered via the 30A Fuse 2, but also note that power is withdrawn if the sunroof or rear windows are operated while the seat heater is on.
The mirrors get power from the BECM via the door outstations. Both fuses 9 (20A) and 22 (30A) feed power to both outstations. If you can adjust the mirror I suspect the fuses are OK. The electric front window power will come from the same fuses.
No, I wouldn't recommend buying a RAVE disc off ebay. The seller won't which version they are selling, it may well be the NAS version 16, with no Technical Bulletins and no diesel engine information.
Assuming you are not paying per MB download, or per minute on line, the Green Oval download is free (covered by the per month cost of your Internet Service).
-
I don't know whether it's a comfort or not, but you are looking at basic faults in the world of the 38A. They are not electrically connected.
The heated screen is wired and fused in two halves. Whether LH or RH drive, the LH side is switched on, via a relay, this in turn switches on the RH side, via anoher relay.
So your problem could be a faulty relay, or a wiring fault. Has the screen ever been changed due to stone chip or accident damage?
Heated mirrors are powered all the time the engine is running, whatever the external temperature. It could well be a failure of the mirror glass, but in an old vehicle, anything is possible. If the price of a Land Rover glass seems expensive, then look around for aftermarket heated elements, they are made for the truck world, but I think you can get smaller ones. I don't have any direct links though.
Heated seat failure is normally a physical break in the element in the seat base. As the base is wired in series with the backrest, althought I don't recommend it, you can short out the seat base connection and have a very warm backrest, but it's normally sitting on a frozen leather seat that causes the discomfort, so you haven't gained much.
Whether you need to buy a replacement element, or a replacement seat cushion, depends on your model, and availability, bearing in mind the cars are obsolete. If you are 'handy' I recommend going to a scrapyard, armed with a very sharp craft knife as well as your usual tools. Cut apart the seat cushions of any Volvo you find, as these people specify reliable heaters. Passenger seats for prefereance. Fitting this into the 38A seat is more involved, of course, but you get an arguably better product at less money.
Yes, you shouldn't think about self maintenance of a 38A without a Manual. There are links in the Tech Archive, but basically look for the Green Oval site and pick the appropriate RAVE download, although you will have to have the computing skills (or know someone who has them) to turn the image you download into a CD. Once created, you can place the image on your hard drive and run Rave.exe directly from there, as it's quicker than waiting for the CD drive to spin up everytime you change pages.
As you are finding out, a 38A isn't all about shiny paintwork :-))
Have fun.
-
FridgeFreezer wrote
"There are all sorts of things that get asked regularly on here that could be very easily answered by having a Wikipedia style thing."
Hmmm, I'm not sure I agree.
Someone has to take on the labour intensive Editing task of pulling together the Frequently Asked Questions and the Frequently Given Replies. It's the editing that is required, and it 'could' be done in the Forum style, it's just that I doubt that anyone wants to take it on. Editors being people who are always complained about, never praised.
(Not 100% true but almost, I think).
What I'm saying is that the willingness to be an Editor comes first, Forum style or Wiki style comes later.
Let's face it, any one of us could TODAY trawl through the FAQ's that apply to our specialist interest, and create the responses, even if the responses were originally made by other people. Then we post as a new topic, or PM to the appropriate Tech Archive Moderator, who posts them up. The current Forum style doesn't inhibit the work, so I don't see how changing to Wiki style will suddenly get it done.
Cheers.
-
Having tried a bit of editing, or article creation if you like, on a Wiki site, I also feel that where the bulk of people are primarily Land Rover enthusiasts, then going to a Wiki will allow the 'computing' to get in the way of the Land Rover content. Which isn't good, IMHO.
The difficulty, or fear of the difficulty, in creating clear and readable articles is what stops them being written.
A 'Wiki' increases the difficulty.
For reference, I have some articles in the 38A section of www.Rangie.com
The first ones were written in plain text, the later ones were written using the 'article build' software that Matt Reeve created. This is 'OK' but it's definately another skill to learn to get a decent layout, especially when pictures are added.
My other main creation is most of the Rovacom Section of www.landywiki.co.uk
http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Rovacom
Again, a significant extra element of knowledge is required. This becomes less important if you are working at it every day, but for the occasional contributor, inexperienced in creating a Wiki page, it's a definate high barrier.
Edited to include that if you want the Wiki style then Andy Cunningham has actually created it. The site started out as a 38A specific site, but has evolved over the years, and it's some months ago that Andy changed the name to http://www.Landywiki.co.uk and included the basic sub headings. If people prefer that style of site, there is one waiting for contributions, and Andy is happy to accept them, but you will notice there is a lot of red font on the front page, where no-one has bothered.
Let me trade on my reputation for being the awkward sob.
Steve_a, how many Land Rover articles have you contributed? That is the prime requirement, the methodology comes second, especially if it's more complicated than plain text.
I know that comes across as a personal challenge, but actually I'm creating an opportunity for you.
You will recognise, I hope, that your argument would be stronger if you can point to work already done, and explain why changing the method of creating the article(s) would both speed and multiply your article creation.
We do have to talk about alternatives, just to keep up to date, so there's nothing wrong with suggesting something new, but not every suggestion will get adopted.
Cheers.
-
"Works well. "
Good, that's positive at least.
Have you read the discouraging reviews on the Amazon link?
-
BBC,
Can you be a bit more specific about what there is on the 802 Global site relating to in-car cameras?
As a site it seems to relate more to wireless networks, which might be used for static cameras, but don't seem much use in a car.
"802 Global is a specialist value-added distributor, delivering a full range of quality services and support in the wireless, IP CCTV and voice over IP markets."
Cheers
-
This 'freedom to post pictures' could get 'tiresome' after a while, but .... :-)
White90 - Series one, I understand, but 'spade type' isn't an expression I've heard before, so can't comment one way or the other.
However, it probably was standard for something mainstream, I'm sure it's not a custom made jobby.
This instance, and it seems to be the standard fitment, is from a Carmichael FT6, which is a Carmichael Forward Control design based on the Series 2 / 2A chassis and running gear.
Another picture (of course) to put the seat in a little more context.
-
To pay tribute to a couple of people who have just cured an obscure (Forum) problem that only one person asked about.
-
Possibly while Bill is still around, what's your opinion on installing breathers into the box and transfer case, to minimise the pressure on the output shaft seals?
Fatboy,
As a matter of interest, did LEGS supply leather or plastic seals for the output shafts? I have no views as to which is best, but some vote one way, some the other.
Cheers.
-
Take it as a sideways view if you like, but I think of a cordless wrench as either an essential, or a luxuary, never a (low) budget puchase. To me, £80+ on one tool is expensive, and as the general consensus (this and previous threads) is that the MM tool is barely acceptable, what is the point?
Not when the options are a flex handle and a standard cordless drill with a 1/2" adaptor.
Most of those three items you probably already have.
Personally, for wheel nuts, the most likely opportunity, I release the torque with the flex handle, transfer the socket to the drill and wind the nuts off like that.
Replacement sees them started by hand, to avoid crossed threads, wound on with the drill, then transfer the socket to the torque wrench.
I really don't find anything else that needs the speed of a motor driven wrench.
My drill is an old 9.6v Makita, so it is nowhere near as powerful as the sort of thing you get currently.
If you are working on these things to earn your bread and butter, then it's a different matter, but your budget is correspondingly larger, as it's an 'essential' item.
As I imply, possibly the alternative view ;-)
-
I'd suggest GLASS, with Simon Wilson being the North Notts rep, and Ed Cairns the South Notts rep.
I'm not sure what they do re organised runs, either from a local club aspect or just '3 mates'.
These things tend to be via person to person contact, or via local club contacts. They aren't posted on web sites as too many people 'tag on', with most of them not known to the run leader.
It's the run leader who naturally feels some legal or moral responsibility for everyone, so that is why the personal contact is vital.
Who are the local clubs for your area, besides GLASS?
Notts GLASS monthly meet details are at http://preview.tinyurl.com/39wlj7
I suggest a phone call is essential, as something might be happening more local to you.
HTH
-
Bill,
From the way your posts reads, you could well be a person interested in a privately developed reset system for the EAS. I've had no part in this, and don't (need) to use it, but I understand it's aimed at adjustment and fault clearance.
I see you are interested in an alternative complete control system, but on the other hand, if you have a cost effective electronic screwdriver, the need for a complete new wheel can be downgraded on your priority list.
The bad news, possibly, is that this system was developed for the EAS fitted to the 38A, and I just don't know what compatability the reset system has with the Classic. My understanding is that the EAS systems are closely related, so I do think it's worth your time investigating.
Probably the best route in for background reading is the Rangerovers.net Diagnostic Forum http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=8
You are interested in the EAS Unlock tool.
The EAS Kicker is a Blackbox Solutions product aimed at the same market, but the Kicker is now out of production.
Edited to add that this Diagnostic Forum was spawned out of the 38A Forum.
There is also a Classic Forum, which I haven't investigated, perhaps a Search in there for 'Unlock' might prove fruitful for you.
Done. This thread looks relevant; http://preview.tinyurl.com/3cvyko
If you have many hours to spare you could scroll down to the oldest thread and start reading from there, but I suggest you start with the posts at the top and read through those. You will probably have picked up everything useful and available before you are halfway down the list.
You will have to step round the occasional blood stain, but there hasn't been any fresh stuff for weeks, at least :-)
If the 'will it work on a Classic' question is NOT answered in your reading, then I suggest you Register with the Forum and ask the open question.
Alternatively, if you want to offer development expertise, then once you have identified the lead players behind the development, you register with the Forum and PM them to introduce yourself and your background. It's highly likely they won't have heard of your specialism.
The other essential reading is the Rover Renovations site (Shupak on RangeRovers.net) where you will see what alternative rubber springs there are for the Classic. There are useful written instructions available for download from his site.
Just in case it is not clear, I am in favour of the EAS, although my experience is only based on the 38A. People do change those out to coil springs, but I regard that as their problem, not mine.
Good Luck.
-
Is that an opportunity for an insurance claim? Or does it count as a natural hazard, as would driving over a sharp piece of metal in the UK?
-
OK, I misunderstood.
So in fact we are thinking of the same pipe - the breather from the carburettor float chamber.
Now it's just a matter of wait and see :-)
-
Looking at the holes, it isn't designed to draw a significant amount of air in, so it's probably a filter attached to either the crankcase breather (which might have originally gone to the carburettor or air filter), or it's a filter attached to the float chamber.
In both cases things like that are there to prevent fumes reaching the fresh air, and might be required to meet some local anti-smog legislation.
In the UK, an anti-run-on air intake, as Early90 mentions, normally manage with piece of gauze about 1" in diameter, so a filter that size is a bit overkill. However, it's still a plausible suggestion, in my view.
Or a previous owner decided it was a 'good idea' and if you take it off you might find out why. IE, the engine bay gets coated in oily deposits.
If it's a BMW logo it indicates it's been drawn from a non-Land Rover source, and the number may be specific to BMW, or whoever specified in the first place.
You said "BMW?". Is the question mark because you can't believe it's a BMW part, or because you aren't certain what a BMW logo looks like?
Assuming Puralator was a typo, Purolator Googles to either http://www.pureoil.com/ or http://www.purolatorair.com/, which you can see from the logo is different marketing arms of the same company.
Like you, I can't find a search result relating to that number. If you think it is a BMW part then I'd remove it from the Land Rover and walk into a BMW Parts Centre. You may find someone who can be bothered to help.
Cheers.
P38 range rover electric Window Problems
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
"the front drivers door window goes up and down but when going up if you hold the button in it keeps driving"
Presumably you get a loud banging when 'it keeps driving'?
If so this is the motor drive gear slipping on the worn regulator. The answer is a new regulator. You cannot 'set' the window if the motor does not stall, which it never will if the gears slip.
"message saying window not set ..... getting same message on front passenger window too except it doesn't try to keep driving"
Probably, you are not holding the switch operated for long enough when the window is in the stalled position.
You have to invoke a definate stall at both extremes, when fully open and when fully closed.
5 seconds is too long (unneccessary), 1 to 2 seconds is correct.
HTH