Paul C

I don't know if it is available where you are but proma MBL8 is an additive which is excellent for quieting noisy lifters.

There should be screws to hold it into the housing. If you can do those in place then OK, but probably easier to remove the whole lock first.

I am about to swap disc's onto my drum Salisbury but I am using all the old parts from my disc Salisbury that I upgraded. I used Ashcroft shafts and LOF brakes so replaced the hubs and stubs as well to give me the spares for upgrading the drum axle. All the parts are available.

Prc4826 is the blade fuseholder

www.v8forum.co.uk is a good site for rover v8 information

Be careful about torque settings if you use a fine threaded stud, the factory setting is for coarse threads so could be more likely to strip the threads in the heads if you use the same setting. The factory bolts and locking plates have been used for years, only from the 4.0 did they change it.

I have used stainless for the rear section but made my own front pipes in mild steel and ceramic coated them also. I used a RR classic rear section in 2.5in as it was more easily available. For you in the UK it is easier to get everything off the shelf, rimmerbros.co.uk have both mild and stainless in stock.

I had my manifolds ceramic coated, I had stainless cap screws but they did loosen so have gone back to hex bolts and locking plates. I wanted to use the spacers ERR6318 that they used on the disco2 4.0 to allow for different expansion rates but couldn't find any used and wasn't paying the price for new ones.

The parts diagram says for engine code 24G but I have fitted it, all the v8 discos I have dismantled have had them also. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/v8-petrol-carburetter/heatshield_53367

I used cap screws for my 3.9, but on the 4.6 have used bolts and the locking plates. For gaskets I used ERC3606, but there are a few others, these are harder to fit being single pieces but give easier access for changing the spark plugs than some of the multiple ones. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/v8-petrol-carburetter/exhaust-manifold-without-heat-transfer-cover_53359

Actually I believe from the factory they had an earth connected to a special bolt on the exhaust manifold. #9 in the parts diagram. I have also found it on my early Rangerovers

Sound and thermal insulation is separate to the headliner, first add those then the headliner adds to the insulation but is mostly for cosmetics

Www.Vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

Pretty sure mine were alloy. White vinegar is what I use to dissolve corrosion now, Dad always used Coca-Cola when he was restoring antiques.

I made my own engine loom so got heat sleeving from vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk when I bought the wire so have used that where I thought it may need it. I fitted it before crimping the terminals so I used tubing just larger than the wire rather than having to slip it over the terminals

You can use the ANR2938 or the Disco 2 RBC100111, which is what I have been using, I did use ANR2938 at the bottom of the spring previously but haven't fitted them after this rebuild. With both top and bottom it will raise about 25mm. https://www.lrdirect.com/rbc100111-isolator

I have used 3.9 disco manifolds on mine since fitting the 3.9, also on the new 4.6, they flow really well, though I put mine into a single pipe straight after the manifold to increase the torque, the rangerover used twin pipes which increases the top end horsepower but doesn't gain as much torque. Originally used the Disco 1 front pipes, mine had the cats removed and they fitted straight on.

Would the 93 have bullet connectors at the bulkhead to the rear loom, they were often a problem hence the upgrade to econoseal on the later models.

My 3.9 has a piston tap when it's cold, ever since I fitted it 10 years ago. Occasionally get exhaust leaks but noisy cam and lifters is common on older engines too. 3.9 upgrade is the best thing you can do. You can keep the injection on or as I did use the original carbs and manifold, your 4 bbl would probably work better on a 3.9 as they are a bit big for the 3.5.

Some of the early v8s had an external pump mounted there too I believe.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-fuel-air-emission-systems/fuel-system Good place to research what your factory system should be. I manged to find most of the factory lines for my 110 rebuild even with the twin tanks

The pump has a gauze filter on it but it should have another filter between pump and carb. On yours most likely would have been in front of the tank on the bulkhead outrigger

I have been using aftermarket ones in my 110 for over 10 years without any problem. The factory one could be made by the same manufacturer anyway. You could by 10 aftermarket for the price of 1 just for different packaging.

PRC7019 should be the pump for a side mounted tank.

You shouldn't need a regulator but if you have flooding it could help fix it. Four barrel carbs haven't really been that successful for off road use. The factory system uses a full flow system which returns unused fuel back to the tank, keeping the fuel in the lines flowing and preventing problems with fuel heating and vaporizing in the lines.