mad_pete

I think someone told me the cooling system should pressurise up to 13 psi give or take. So I think the top hose should be quite hard but not rock hard and I guess not super squidgy either.

Well the other one is very very close. I think next time I would mark the first one from on top of the bonnet but mark the second one from underneath. The underneath of the bonnet has more features and struts to measure from where the top is an empty expanse of metal. Had trouble getting the pins to line up, my first 2 lots of perfectly measured holes failed to line up on closing so I ended up going for a wide support bar with slots to give me the final adjustment. Now they are on they are lovely. I would recommend them it is so much easier than messing about in the cab plus they lock.

Well there we have it. The ignition feed to the ECU was plugged into something that was ignition live but not cranking live. I plugged it into something else and rock and roll.

Should everything that is live at ignition be live at ignition + cranking ?

I think my ECU is dead when cranking, the relays click off as the key moves to crank position and don't re-click when cranking begins. Can I just plumb a live from the starter solenoid ( red brown ? ) to the ignition ECU feed to give it juice while cranking ?

My EFI seems to take a big gasp of air when I undo the fuel cap. Is that normal or am I a breather short of a fuel system ? If I do need a breather where is a good place to plumb it in ? I seem to remember range rover tanks have about 4 feeds but my landie tank only has 2.

after lots of unwrapping of tape it turns out it was the old live and earth for the fuel pump. The live was disconnected but the earth was still used. New earth wired in a she lives once more. Is the fuel pump supposed to go off on crank or do I need to wire something from the starter motor solenoid ?

okay sweet I don't think it is a lambda sensor. So where does the road speed transducer go and how do I bypass the auto box inhibit switch ?

Okay 90 with 4.2 EFI. Loom runs into the cab with ECU behind seat. I have the main loom going forward into the engine. After about a foot 2 wire groups break out from the loom. One goes to the fuel pump. The other is red and black pair heading forwards. Unfortunately these ( red and black pair ) on mine caught the front prop and got slightly ( totally ) ripped out. So I have some red and black ends just under the drivers seat and about 60 cm of red and black wrapped round the prop. The question is where did the other end of that get ripped from ? The red looks live towards the ecu as it looks like it was earthing to the chassis judging by the black ends. When I turn the key the starter motor spins but the fuel pump doesn't prime. Where did these wires go and am I likely to have blown anything up ? Help

That looks very nice, where do you get a Mike from ?

All, Have switched to an auto on my 90 I now have a big gap in the LT85 tunnel. The hi / lo selector pokes up just as at the back and the rest of the gear lever area is just a gaping expanse. Anyone know of a garage in something in the Waterlooville area that could patch the hole and make it look half decent ? I want to avoid it looking like a total bodge job if possible.

Yeah I don;t know what I was thinking ( dreaming of my 2A I guess ) but I don't actually have a PTO hole in the rear cross-member. DOH Stacks out the top seem license to burn yourself a bit too much to me.

Having popped a 4.2 V8 in me 90 I think I'm going to need a bigger back section for the exhaust. The current plan is to go to Torque Technique in Sailsbury and get a custom section made up. I was wondering where to exit the exhaust ? 1) Side exit 2) Same place as standard exhaust 3) Through the PTO hole in the rear crossmember 4) Standard rear exit 5) Go mad and have quad exit rear exhausts ??????? My landy is in theory an off road beastie so out of harms way is good. Any suggestions ?

Well that's one on with the hole saw and dremel method ( the areocatch has a 30 mm arc and a 45 mm arc give or take ). The fit is great but it doesn't line up properly with the pin so I'll have to move the support bar out slightly (or make a new one ). I used the paint method but I think I had the pin too high when I marked it and the bonnet moved out a bit on the swing to the final close position. So my hole is too far back but I can remake the support bar. Not too bad so far but the trick will be to make the other one look the same as this one and hope the paint on the bonnet survives. Thanks for the tips. ( and the screw donation )

All, Got some Aerocatches for my 90. What's the best approach to cutting neat holes in the bonnet ? I was going to put a bar across the 2 top rad mount brackets. Will that be strong enough ? All advice appreciated as I don't really want to put 2 big holes in the bonnet in the wrong place and have to cover my mistake with big halfords air vents

All, MEgasquirting in progress. Mounting the sensor bracket. Not the bottom right bolt hole in the timing cover but the one above it as you look from the front on a 4.2 rangie V8. The hole in the timing cover is there and threaded. But the question is what thread is it ? Please shower me in enlightenment

and this is my trigger wheel ( alla trigger-wheels.com ) again very nice piece of metal. ( if only the missing tooth was a little more to the left :-p )

I have one of these brackets. It's a very lovely bit of metal so I don't want to change it if I don't have to. It mounts the sensor slightly in the dip between the two bolts on the timing cover so I'm quite limited on adjustment. To get the 1 mm sensor - trigger wheel clearance I have virtually no wriggle room at all.

I'm putting EDIS 8 on my 4.2. I have a sensor bracket and a trigger wheel. However the sensor sitting where it does on the bottom right of the timing cover I can only put the missing tooth 40 or 60 degrees in front of the sensor. The ideal 50 degrees isn't possible. So the question is should I live with 40 or 60 ( I think I am going with 40 at the moment so EDIS will limp home fire at TDC not great but not engine destroying either ) or should I seriously redo the sensor bracket to get that magic 50. I know I should be able to compensate for the 10 degrees with megasquirt.

Driver's seat base adjustment seat, sunroof left side motor, heater fan speed setting 2 , alarm and central locking ( you get a fairly random number of doors locking or unlocking ) are all gradually stopping working ( yes I know they do that but). I was wondering is there a body to chassis earth strap I can check ? It's a 3.9 Vogue SE on a H plate. Also I have a relay half way down the drivers wing top in the engine bay that has rusted though it's 2 earth points and corroded main positive off. ( I'll try to get a picture ) but all the important stuff still works. Any idea what that could be ?

my flasher unit clicks quietly when the engine is on. When I turn the heater fan on it clicks louder and faster. Is that the flasher and the fan sharing some crappy earth causing the problem or is it more subtle ? All the indicators work as they should.

oh and fancy a beer sometime, neighbour ?

It was the one Jules tried running upside down. Sounds fine on youtube.

I don't believe it. Cooling system is over pressurising and filling with gas. What's more likely with a sat engine, head gasket, bore crack or random temporary coolant leak that is part of the bedding in ? As a sticking a 4.2 V8 auto in a ninety tips section Remove radiator and drop engine and gear box as one Lt85 tunnel mostly fits Official V8 autobox cooler pipes don't fit Get the gear selector mount from Ashcroft I used a na 2.5 diesel rad for oil cooler You can keep LT77 transfer box and if you do props stay same. Check a locater peg is not in gearbox AND transfer case as you try to fit it EFI electrics aren't as scary as you think ( see Nige's posts for the magic docs ) Out of a 40 pin plug only 8 or so really mean business Exhaust probably won't fit It will take twice as long and three times more money than you thought it would ( doesn't everything ) It is cool to drive. BTW who else lives in Waterlooville round here ?

Right the 4.2 exhaust is bigger than the 3.5. At the moment the 2 just meet in the middle. Any suggestions on where I can get a custom exhaust, or at least a bigger back section ?