mad_pete

If it's a toy and you like messing about with stuff I'd megasquirt it. If it's not a toy and you like it to work I'd diesel it. In my experience V8s are a roller coaster of it works and it's fantastic down to it's all broken and I hate it. My diesel I get in, turn the key and get to ( and from ) where I wanted to go.

or is it ? Should I just bin the engine and spin the wheel of luck on another V8 from somewhere ? ( I have to get one that works sooner or later surely )

Hmm how marginally annoying to say the least, a second exhaust gasses in coolant test ( I had one done when this started ) has come back positive. Off with it's heads time.

THanks. How good would that be if it's just a cooling issue.

Okay I checked a squirt log file. The engine on idle will warm to 90. Running is at 95 and a good prod on the throttle is followed about 4 - 6 seconds later with a temp spike to 103.

Well explosions are explosions and they are always on the hot side. Is it running okay ? I'd suspect jammed open thermostat resulting in massive over-cooling. If it's been laid up maybe the carb jets are blocked and some of it isn't getting any fuel ? I think the carbs do 4 cylinders each don't they ?

The ratio of anti freeze has been normal, low and high I'm not sure I've noticed a difference with different mixtures. The engine came from a 90 with a na diesel rad and that didn't overheat without a cowl. The engine has the 12 blade viscous fan that came on the 4.2. The cowl is a close fit as I had to slightly trim the blades and cowl to stop if rubbing. The fan is a snug fit to the hole. These pictures are from my just what I had to hand so if you need any close ups let me know The header tank is the 3.5 one and a bit small. My winch safety valve stops me mounting the rangie one. It has a pipe brazed to the bottom to feed the bottom hose and a t piece plumbed into the smaller top hose from the original feed. Apart from the header tank the plumbing is the same as the other 90 the engine came from The front is basically the same as the picture except the spot lights are now slightly bigger ( and yes I could take them off as they are a whacking great block on the air but I would have thought the system would have enough slack to handle steady driving) I think to start with the spots weren't on and I still had a problem although I didn't have the cowl at that point.

okay so it is overheating. :-). So what's next least expensive thing on the list of things that cause overheating ? I've done stat rad cap heater matrix

It might not be overheating. The temp gauge ( which may be wrong now due to gauge / sender mis-match due to 3.5 carb -> 4.2 EFI ) goes up to normal and stays there. Megasquirt thinks it gets up to 105 C which is a bit hot but under pressure still maybe not boiling. So water never comes out on tickover but will come out after a 15 minute drive or more at normal speeds. A good bit of right foot seems to cause more to come out. None of the days I have tested on have been particularly hot or cold. So anytime under load with more load seemingly pushing more water out.

It was faulty injector connectors. New injectors and connectors and hello V8 again. I upped total fueling from 20 to 23 and it still loses water.

I would have done my logging runs with the misfire so I'll assume it's probably saved. On tick over it won't boil, but any sort of driving tends to get some out. I think a good prod of throttle when driving results quite quickly in coolant out the overflow. So anything above a few miles or any full throttle will cause some coolant loss.

That's a pity. Injectors and connectors 2 and 4 and maybe the rest are going to be replaced. Hopefully the misfire is down to that. The radiator is a na 90 and is new. The thermostat is 88 I think and new. The heater matrix has been replaced and it has a new rad cap. The fan is a viscous fan and I recently put the right cowl to go with it on. Doesn't the extra air in the exhaust from the 2 cylinders not burning anything mess up the oxygen fueling as the sensor over reads oxygen?

It was negative.

okay looks like the connections to the injectors are shot, pulling the connector plug off one of the pins came off the injector. The question is how likely is running as a V6 ish likely to be causing the overheat as well ?

This is all rough guesswork based on putting a EFI/auto into a 90 that had been changed from a na diesel at some point in it's life I think it's quite a lot of work but it is worth it. Jobs you'll need to do move engine mounts new rad mount autobox cooler mount ecu new gearbox tunnel Fuel pump change ? It will take twice as much time and/or money than you expect :-)

So should I check for resistance / open circuit between 34/35 32/33 and 28 ?

"Wiring faults on the injector circuits (and within the injectors) can be tested for at the ECU connector. Turn the ignition off and disconnect the ECU connector. Check the right bank of injectors by measuring resistance between terminals 2 and 11. Check the left bank of injectors by measuring resistance between terminals 2 and 13. In both cases, an Ohmmeter reading of 4-4.5 Ohms is expected. If the reading is 5-6 Ohms, suspect one bad fuel injector. A reading of 8-9 Ohms could indicate two bad injectors, and a reading of 16-17 Ohms could indicate three bad injectors. In any case, if the overall circuit resistance isn't 4-4.5 Ohms, proceed to checking for wiring faults or for open-circuit injectors. " Anyone know if this still works post megasquirt ? and if so which terminals it now is ?

Yes ever since it's been in it's liked to throw it's coolant out of the expansion tank. The garage was looking at that today and said " you know it's not firing on 2 and 4 don't you ?" and I'm like "um no". So I thought I'd try and get it back to a V8 and then go back to the problem of coolant tantrums :-)

I'll check what colour the plug was and injector contact. The spark from the lead looked pretty meaty on a HT lead to engine block test. Is there a way to test injectors ?

compression is fine on all cylinders ( sorry forgot to mention that ) Range 110 - 130 and I don't think 2 and 4 are the lowest. I only doubled checked lead positions 2 and 4 are correctly plugged into coil pack 2 left hand side.

Well I was hoping to fix the misfire first and move onto the water escaping. The car had new plugs fitted today and still didn't fire on those cylinders. I understand that misfire causes the fuel to wet the plugs but that's effect rather cause isn't it ?

Right I have 4.2 V8 Megasquirt doing EDIS spark and fuel New plugs A big spark from 2 and 4 leads But the exhaust manifold from 2 and 4 is cold. The back reads 170 the other side reads 180 but the branch from cylinders 2 and 4 only reads 90 Also it is blowing water out the top of the expansion tank but I'm hoping that's the misfire making the rest of the cylinders run lean as there is too much oxygen in the exhaust. Any ideas where me missing bang has gone ?

Chris Perfect did a nice power steering bolt on for series landies. I tried it on mine and it was great but the pump mounted too low for heavy off roading so I had to take it off.

I lived with a 2a as a main car for a few years and it was fine ( you can get used to anything :-) ). As Fridge says get it checked. Plenty of solid ones out there and a bad one will just suck all your money.

Here is how I attached it. I need to beef it up a bit but you get the idea.