mad_pete

Well here it is in it's test install. Screen Picture is great but my camera doesn't like it.

When logging sometimes not all the cells get hit in the log and those aren't changed so you end up with weird maps that are a combination of tuned and untuned depending if you hit those cells and when I first tuned I had the standard range rover lambda sensors which totally don't work with megasquirt but the tuning software took a crack anyway. I also hit a problem of not loading the correct msq into megalog viewer which meant I was getting some old values on ignition and starting fuel levels when I reloaded the map to megasquirt, which meant I was much too lean on tick over.

I felt a bit cheeky posting here saying spend money when I realised haven't actually donated to the fine cause myself. I've donated now and I feel much better.

I agree with fridge. You get what you pay for and easier life and piece of mind go a long way. obviously this is sacrilege but depending on what it is yes I do pay a mechanic to fix my land rover.

Having just read the articles in question I don't think it's quite as bad as it's made out. I think the journalists slightly up themselves attitude colours opinion against them. The Range Rover as stated had slightly scored discs but new pads. Failing on structural rust that isn't structural rust is a bit annoying as mine was failed for the same thing. At the end of the day it's down to the tester. I took mine to a garage that had a better understanding of what bits of metal are and aren't holding mine together and it was fine. However he was bang to rights on the scored disc The headlight and play in the steering were known faults that might have been fails. MOT date looms time is short, personally I won't second guess the qualified MOT tester in terms of what constitutes too much play on a 50 year old steering rack and ditto for incorrect headlight pattern. You go down that road you end up replacing everything* As it was the tester deemed the steering play within limits The fact the MOT tester didn't know the exact date rubber pedals came in who cares ? It failed legitimately on several other things. And the fact it's now law to have grip on the brake pedal is probably because muddy boots slip off smooth pedals so maybe getting a rubber pedal is a good idea rather than my car must be as lethal as it legally can be based on the fact it was built when cars were allowed to be quite lethal. As an MOT tester if you think it's fail and you say it's a fail that's pretty professional really. So he isn't used to separate chassis cars, that's what the appeal process is for. It's not really a flag wave for MOT dodging danger cars. It's a couple of old land rovers failing on some minor stuff taken by owners who are a bit rude to muggles and don't know how to book an MOT a month in advance of the current ones expiry *not that you don't anyway

I think MS needs to see the the fuel pump circuit go live before it will play. I think if you bypass MS and manually set the fuel pump on MS won;t play.

is the fuel pump relay working ?

Okay tweaked the top bucket down and took 2 off everything above 1200

Thanks, I'm just looking for a good basic point to run up some tuning. I had one that seemed okay but tickover was at 16 degrees, for some reason it had some 8 degrees trim on it and I think my sensor is set correct so I took that off and then it seemed less happy and I tried 12 and it was less happy and then I was messing around with everything so I thought it would be a good time to check I'm not on a road to a broken engine. This is a 3.9 auto map. Is this safe enough ?

Can someone point me at a standard auto 4.2 v8 spark map please ? I'm sure there are millions I just can't quite seem to find one that doesn't confuse me utterly.

Double DIN display This is what I'm currently looking at. Or maybe I could get an 8" and just mount it directly over the mud dash but that wouldn't look as neat.

Okay maybe I'm getting carried away but I've bought a mud dash and I can't help thinking the big hole in the middle could really do with a 7 " touch screen much like you find in jaguars and then I'm toying with the idea of mounting the laptop in the top of the passenger footwell. Then run megatunix ( gauges look prettier ) all the time. I have a gobook 250 so it should be pretty tough and I already have a 12v power supply for it. Any comments on a) why this is a great idea B) why this is a terrible idea c) 7" touch screens ( good, bad , ugly ? ) The stereo fold out screens look like they would fall apart so I was thinking proper mount like the ones in the back of headrests.

It's a non serpentine engine. Well actually I think it was but Jules put the other type front on. So I think that makes it not. Distance to rad from fan is 23mm Might investigate the 50th cowl anyway

My 90 was a na diesel that was changed to a 3.5 carb v8 before I got it. I've put a 4.2 v8 in. With the 3.5 the gauge would read hot correctly. Now the gauge seems to go to warm but stay there. I thought that was fine but now I have megasquirt it is reporting the temperature spiking 100 degrees plus and I am losing water. So do I need to change my gauge or sender to go with the 4.2 ?

My domed washers are the wrong way round. Thanks Bish

Yes actually Americans are going to put the button on the wrong side aren't they. I'm thinking something like http://mustangparts.essexracingclassics.co...roducts_id=7159 T shaped shifter in chrome ( autobox was a pain to fit I want to feel good about changing gear ) Is the range rover one as simple as 2 tubes with the inner one that does the lift to allow gear selection ?

I've got an auto in my 90. I have the old classic ranger rover shifter. Is it possible to fit something more exciting ? I know the softdash shifter would fit but is there anything else that could go in ? Is it a simply job to nick a T shaped shifter off something American and bolt it on? - Sorry about the typo in the description. I can't see how to correct it -

I've got a 4.2 V8 in my 90. It mounts in the correct position for a v8 with viscous fan. I have NA diesel rad in there ( if that matters ) as I need the oil cooler. Engine's running hot and a cowl should help with the viscous fan. Are cowls one size fits all or do I need to be a little bit cleverer than that ?

I have some long travel pro comps on my 2" lift 90 at the rear. My old set broke off at the top where the loop of metal joins to the top of the shock. Today I noticed one of my new shocks is only joined on that loop on one side. I did have orange polys at the top and rubbers at the bottom and today I've changed to all blue poly to see if that helps. Can I strengthen the top of the shock with some wields ? I've also secured the spring top and bottom now. Will that help ?

Someone offered me a secondhand classic screen on here for £30 as is, £50 fitted. A bonded new one cost me £340 fitted

Wow. Just replaced both front springs ( complete springs not just bladders ). After a bad start breaking the pins on the locking wheel nut it was done and dusted in 20 minutes a spring. 1a Undo wheel nuts 1b Jack car up on chassis until wheel is off ground 1c Remove wheel 2. Deflate spring if required ( one had a hole already, the other we drilled some in ) 3. Remove air line by pushing down brass ring while pulling pipe up ( used a screwdriver to push it down ) 4. Remove clips top and bottom if they haven't rusted away to nothing already 5. Squash spring ( with hands ) and remove 6. Insert new spring 7. Put on top locator peg E clips or similar 8. Refit wheel 9. Lower jack and locate bottom spring pegs in holes. 10. Tighten wheel nuts I didn't disconnect the ECU or battery. A lot easier than replacing a steel spring. I didn't need to drop the axle beyond its normal range of motion so the sensors stayed happy. Seems easy enough to squash the spring to get it in. My springs came "pre-lowered" That is to say the spring seemed at normal ride height size rather than full height making it very easy to slot in. I'd be very tempted to change whole springs again in the future rather than attempt bladder changes but I like an easy life :-)

I've just blown a front spring on mine. Soapy water ( and loud hissing noise ) confirmed air bag fail. Ordered some off ebay ( bladders £80 pair, full springs seem to be £80 each ) so I'll see how hard it is to change. My mate drove over a speed bump and broke a spring in his mondeo and his car is newer than my rangie so it's not like coils never break. I thought I wanted coils to start with but now I've got air suspension I wouldn't go back ( assuming I can get the bladders to fit :-) )

Well no such luck. Most came in at around £300 and after the surround it came to £340. Very annoyingly the old screen came out without breaking ! ( anymore than it was ) Interestingly Adrian Flux wouldn't let me go up to fully comp. One windscreen is costly enough, if I get the new one fitted and crack that I will positively cry. Third party -> fully comp is totally banned. I couldn't even cancel and get a new policy. Apparently people on third party smash their motor up, park it in the garage, upgrade to fully comp and then claim a month or so later. I didn't see why I couldn't take it to an approved repairer and get them to sign off that the vehicle was in one piece and had no cracks in the see through bits but apparently not. As the rangie has no mods I found an insurer that would do fully comp for the cost of the third party policy and I get to rack up some no claims now. Swapped my rangie policy to the 90 that had conveniently expired. Need to pull my finger out and fix that now..........

Yes glass cover will be going on this time. It's the first time I've broken a screen ( apart from when the 90 went upside down but that was £80 or so for all broken panels including windscreen ) so all the money I've saved over there years I get to spend now. :-) RAC want £305 and £457 for non heated and heated respectively which is a bit more like it.

After years of picking up chips I've managed to get a massive crack straight away on my car that doesn't have glass cover on the insurance. Anyone recommend where to get a windscreen from ? Mine is heated but I'm not sure I'm prepared to pay hundreds of pounds for the privilege. Auto glass are quoting £370 for normal and £650 for heated ? is that about the going rate ? I have a 95 classic with the bonded windscreen