Llanigraham
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Posts posted by Llanigraham
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The 26psi was corrected by LR in around 1999 to bring the pressures up to 30psi all around because of reported tyre wear problems. All owners handbooks after that date state that figure.
I only tow a max weight of 1050kg and found that an extra 5psi at the back was fine.
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Matt, there is a breaker that specialises in Freelanders at Parkend in the Forest of Dean.
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Did you replace the head bolts?
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Anything is possible if you have the engineering skills, but as to what you would use I don't know.
Would it be that easy to get the balance right?
What would you do about the handbrake?
How would you get them to "talk" to the traction control system?
Personally I find the brakes on my Freelander more than adequate as they are, especially on the Td4 with the vented front discs.
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1/ Why?
2/ What are you going to use when LR always fitted drums, even on the V6?
3/ Why hasn't it got RWD?
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One problem with that Russ............no mobile signal along Strata!!
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Gap Rd is now CLOSED. All date signs have been removed and BBNP and PCC confirm it is a Restricted Byway.
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Why do you think the bearings have gone?
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The VCU is the VISCOUS CONTROL UNIT. It's the thing that controls the drive to the rear axle, and can be found in the middle of the prop shaft, roughly underneath where the handbrake is situated. It has a support bearing bolted to the body either side of it, and these wear out.
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Perhaps it's me, but why post a photo of something that is completely different to the question being asked?? Why not take a picture of yours so we can actually see what the problem is??
Anyway, if you think that you can extend the wiring and drill the stainless steel bar, the I would say try it. The only thing I foresee is that the outer 2 sensors are going to pick up the presence of the bar!!
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No problem, glad it worked out so well.
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1, as above
2, I suspect that the locking actuator has failed, so it will need replacing.
3, The resistor pack has gone on the fan motor. Try a Google search for that.
4, Check the condition of the 2 supposrt bearings either side of the VCU. Sounds like they need replacing.
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Pardon my stupidity, but how does that block the 2 middle sensors, it is below them? (and how does it protect the bumper if it is further back than it?)
I doubt you would be able to move them easily as it would mean extending the wiring to make it external, plus by drilling the bat you will break the chrome layer, leaving it open to rust very quickly.
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Correct on those assumptions.
A good autoelectrician should certainly know about the relay I mentioned.
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Normal cause it a fubarded VCU!!
Normal test to to try and turn a rear wheel in the air with a breaker bar and socket on the hub nut but i don't think it will work for you, so I would presume it's duff, and look for a replacement.
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Tow bar takes about an hour to fit, taking it easy. All the bolt holes are there ready, so it is just 5 bolts to fit. You don't even need ramps to do it! There is nothing wrong with the Towsure or Witter bars. They all have to be tested nowadays. I bought mine secondhand from one of the LR mags, and there are always plenty on Ebay.
12n electrics should have a plug on the end to plug into the loom. Even the LR kit isn't expensive. The plug is to be found behind the plastic boot liner on the drivers side, just behind the rear wheel arch. There is a grommet incuded with the kit, which fits in a very obvious place.
12s was a bit more awkward, but I ran a fused cable from the battery along the passenger side of the car and fitted an electronic twin relay behind the boot side trim that side, and took the 12s cable through the equivalent grommet that side.
You do need to buy the correct flasher relay so that the little trailer lights up on the dash.
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Replied. Currently at work, but homeward bound soon.
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Yes, proper LR one sat in the hall gathering dust!!!
PM me with a contact number and I will get in touch when I get home from work.
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Never noticed any poor or uncontrolled body roll or wallowing on either of mine! What sort of ride were you expecting in a 4x4 semi-off road vehicle? What have you changed from?
Never heard of those springs and I have never seen anyone marketing a anit-roll bar kit for the Freelander.
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The damper doesn't do a lot, and lots of people have just cut them off. It doesn't seem to have any connection with a failed or failing VCU.
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Where did you put the Tippex marks?
I have only ever tested my VCU's with the breaker bar, and if it is blomming hard to move it, and when it does move it is smooth, then I don't worry. there is an aweful lot of hype and misinformation about the VCU, mostly from people who don't actually know anything about them. Both of my Freelanders have done over 75k miles, the last one nearer 100k, and the VCU has been fine.
If you have no other signs of problems don't worry about it and just enjoy your Freelander.
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To do the Tippex test tyou need to drive along a winding road for at least a mile or so.
The take-up, as you call it, when slippage occurs is almost instant.
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Is she filling up at a supermarket? I've had this problem with Morrisons, and understand that they don't use an anti-foaming agent in their diesel.
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LR state Freelanders should not run with more than a 10% mixture. Injection system is not suitable for higher.
STEERING QUESTIONS
in Freelander Forum
Posted
30psi all round