ian_s
-
Posts
296 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by ian_s
-
-
Thanks, I'll add that to the ever growing list of bits I want to buy!
-
32 minutes ago, dave88sw said:
Do you have the spare wheel on the door? If so, you'll probably want one of these brackets to strengthen the rear tub around the door striker.
https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hdg-rear-capping-tub-door-lock-strengthener-bracket-lr-defender/
They were standard on defenders with rear doors but not on a series, they really do help stop the tub flexing around the striker.
I used to, but without the 3rd hinge or any kind of brace or support on the other side, so the door was flexing massively. I now have a swing away wheel carrier because of this exact problem.
How do those brackets fit? behind the striker and braced with the external galvanised plate?
-
It seems that some of the rivets around the rear tub capping have broken meaning parts of the tub are flexing quite badly, especially near the rear door latch.
looking at my parts book, i need part numbers 78885, 78410 and 78248
they are all 4.8mm, and are countersunk 13mm, domed 11mm and 14 mm long
my question is, do they need washers on back side if I can get to them, and is there really much point in buying both 11 and 14 mm long rivets, surely a 14mm would do both jobs?
-
Merry Christmas all!
-
1
-
2
-
-
I would assume the the brakes are set on the rear that way so that when moving backwards there is at least 2 shoes out of all 8 that will add some bight, assuming the 109 has a twin leading shoe setup
how fast do old bikes move backwards?
-
there will probably be condensation in the crankcase which needs the engine to get properly warm to evaporate. you could also have a little blow-by until the piston rings bed in properly if you've changed them and had the bores honed. I was told both of these by a Royal Navy trained diesel fitter, after he rebuilt an engine for me when I was a teenager, and the breather did calm down after the engine was run in fully.
-
to get the relay out of mine (20 years or so ago) too an immense amount of work. in the end, what got it out involved having the thing up on a 4 post lift, straps around the chassis to the lift, a pole under the relay down to the floor, and lowering the lift and car down using the weight of both.
it still didnt come out
add ratchet straps pulling the lift down at the front end too. i don't know how much tension a ratchet strap can create, these were heavy duty big-ass ones. it went in the end with a very loud bang.
-
-
spot on, i was one tooth out on the pump
and in stripping it down again i wrecked the timing cover gasket, so had to order one in to the local main stealers, and on the way to collect it I had a stone hit my windscreen and crack it. so this was a bloody expensive error
-
yep, i think i'm going to have to strip it all back down again
-
Done the cam belt today, but I have a horrible feeling that I've got the pump 1 tooth out as its chucking out smoke, which smells like unburnt diesel.
Annoyingly I started the engine with the front cover off, and I didn't notice any smoke, but I did notice that I hadn't put the oil cooler back and so it was pumping oil all over the place!
Then I refitted the radiator and inter cooler, so maybe there was some oil splashed into the intake pipes and that's causing it to smoke. I didn't run it for long as it was late and I don't want to upset my brothers neighbours.
-
@lo-fi i replaced the crossmember 25ish years ago, with the cheapest i could find. and I didnt waxoil it. Lesson Learned!!
@Snagger i'd love a nato hitch, if one comes up locally i may well go that way, but i'd still like to brace it more with arms going forward. filters have already been bought, but i forgot to buy oils! @Bowie69 mine had 2 plates about 1/4" thick stacked
-
I've spent today cutting out the bad metal in the rear cross member, it actually isn't as bad as I thought it would be, but i know I'm never towing anything again with it if I don't beef it up a bit! i'm slightly annoyed at myself as I forgot my phone so couldn't take any pictures.
I was slightly shocked to find that the bolts holding the drop plate on didn't use crush tubes through the chassis.
the majority of the rust was in the lowest inch of the cross member, almost everything upwards is intact, and still about 2mm thick as it should be.
So, on to beefing up the tow ball. I'm basically replacing the complete underside of the cross member and a few inches up the rear, plus a 12 inch wide section on the front side about 2 inches high, right in the centre. So I lost the original bolt holes for the drop plate, which wouldn't too hard to re-drill, but I want to put tubes in spread the load.
I also thought about putting in bracing arms from the front side of the chassis, similar to the setup on a RRC or disco where the arms meet up to the chassis further forward, but not as low down. I'm still not towing much with this, my license doesn't cover it, but if I have to be recovered backwards I want it to be strong
-
It's got me worried now, I replaced the relay about 20 years ago with an aftermarket one, it was an absolute b****rd to get out.
-
20 hours ago, Buzz Heard said:
Hi. I've just had a beast of a time replacing my Series 3 steering relay (rust welded into the chassis) as the shaft was sheared clean. I don't know what caused the shaft to fail and am worried that next time it may happen at more than 2MPH. She's a recent acquisition and I suspect that the relay may not have seen oil for ages and the steering certainly was (and actually still is) pretty heavy. That, however, doesn't quite stack up as it sheared just above the bottom lever arm as I turned the steering wheel so the break is after the relay effectively. Maybe I also need to go to work on the ball joints but I think that requires a special puller... Can anyone please inform as to what else might cause the relay shaft to shear like that - it's a bit of a worry as at 55MPH a shear like that will hurt someone I reckon. It may just be metal fatigue but I can't identify the brand on the broken relay - I nearly bought a Bearmach branded one but didn't and my new relay now in is unbranded but has Part No. NRC1269.
Many thanks in advance.
By way of contribution to the above discussion: the Haynes manual I have has an extensive list of what bits need regular maintenance and if I were putting a Land Rover back on the road after a long break I'd go through each of the items listed, including the stuff that only needs doing every 10k miles or more. There's also a good YouTube video showing how to get oil into the steering relay. I should also mention, for those having grief getting steering relays out, that heavyweight pullers must be the best (I used an 8 ton bottle jack but had to rely on the weight of the vehicle front right, maybe 1 ton, for pressure) and I had days of squirting ACF-50 (much better than WD40) in there to degrade the just weld inside the chassis sleeve. After much banging and bashing I did eventually get the old one out but tore a gash in the top of the sleeve and had more grief getting the attaching bolts to line up on the top side...
Cheers
Buzz Heard.
by the sounds of it, your steering has had a massive hit at some point in the past, which has weakened the relay shaft, which has then over time got worse until its sheared.
-
14 hours ago, lo-fi said:
This covers it really nicely
Thanks, I knew I'd seen a thread on it before but i couldn't find it!
-
Thanks, I've had to do that a few times over the years, it does make a massive difference.
Tappets might be a good idea.
I've got the front end apart at the moment to do the cam belt, what is the best way to make sure the timing doesn't shift out of place? is it just a case of marking all 3 gears where they are, or should i line them up to a certain point? it's been so long since I've done a cam belt I cant remember how to do it!
-
so current list:
- cam belt
- engine oil
- coolant
- gearbox oil
- transfer box oil
- brake fluid
- clutch fluid
- axle oils, front and rear
- swivel oils / one shot
- wiper blades
- steering box/relay oils
- steering ball joints
- fan belt
- tires
- damper bushes
- check chassis again
-
17 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:
Fan belt, air filter ( oil level ) and wiper blades oh brake and clutch fluid aswell
fan belt added to the list
haven't got the oil bath filter anymore, so thats not needed, though it will get a wash.
-
Thanks guys.
I originally took it off the road when it failed the MOT on some welding, which I actually fixed at the time, but then my Son arrived and as it's hardly baby safe I never got round to getting it back on the road. Since then more of the chassis has rusted in the front and rear cross members, which I am currently fixing. The Front cross member I have already done, but for the rear I think I might buy a complete rear 1/4 chassis. the bulkhead is solid.
The tires are shot, I forgot to include them in the list. At the moment as I've got the front end apart most of the water hoses are disconnected and I can inspect them, i didnt see any sign of any deterioration.
Inspecting inside the drums was almost the first thing i did, as the driveway it was on was pretty steep and i didnt want to try moving it without knowing it would stop!
wiper blades are a good idea! i had completely forgotten about those.
steering relay is good call. the steering is much heavier than i remember. I'll also look at ball joints.
-
I'm finally getting round to resurrecting my 1980 series 3 that I bought back in 1995. Over the years its gone through a lot of changes, I think the (short) list is:
rebuilt 2.25 diesel
replacement factory recon 2.25 diesel after a few years
upgraded front brakes to 11 inch
parabolic springs
pro comp dampers
defender 200tdi fitted, which died
discovery 200tdi replaced the defender version, but kept the defender manifolds/turbo
so now I'm looking at getting it back on the road.I got as far as making sure the brakes are free, which they are ( 15 year old britpart cylinders still working! )
engine starts better than any other car i've ever had, even with 6 year old diesel in the lines.
what should I be looking to refresh/renew/replace?
current list is:
- cam belt
- engine oil
- coolant
- gearbox oil
- transfer box oil
- brake fluid
- clutch fluid
- axle oils, front and rear
- swivel oils / one shot
- lucas wiring harness smoke
- blinker fluid
Can anyone tell me what else i need to look at?
-
front dumb irons and the main chassis rails are all good still, this is really just a band aid until I can afford a full galvanised chassis which should happen in the next few years. at the moment i'm actually having to put patches on patches, which is never good.
-
It's my first car that i've owned for 24 years, resale is never gonna happen!!
200tdi fitted, so I've already lost the starting handle
the only other downsides i can see are that it might not be as strong, but i'm not 100% on that, and secondly I can currently turn the engine over by hand with lots of extension bars through the front bumper, something i rarely do
-
so recently I dragged my Series out of where it was stored, and I plan to put it back on the road.
first thing on the list is the front cross member which is in a pretty bad way. I've cut the worst out today, the metal either side of the dip is still 2mm thick so is good.
the big questions:
what's the reason for the lowered section? is it just to allow for the PTO hole?
any reason I can't just replace it with straight box section?
Series 3 rear side windows
in Series Forum
Posted
I'm going to need to replace the seals around my rear side windows at some point, they are really brittle and the insert has disappeared out of a big section around the window. are these standard windows and if so what seals would I get? if you can see on the attached photo, the white insert is about 1/3 gone.
They arent original to the hardtop sides, as there is a sticker on the inside that disappears beneath the seal.
Thanks
Ian