justustwo

Cheers for extra info.Will keep all that in mind ,what i must say is that i am an ex Brit down here in South Africa and i really am very wary on letting (some of)the local bodgers down here loose on my hard work of a vehicle as have had many jobs so poorly done in the past that its better to attempt them myself at least then i know i take the care and only one person to blame . I wont know untill the manifold comes off but im hoping that the probe can be bent into the most central location as its only the tip of the probe that reads which may allow me to get a more flat spot for tapping? What welding process did he use to weld your stubb on tig? All I know is I dont want a cracked manifold as here the parts are a Bu**er to find for a 200tdi

by the way still not 100% wether i sould just rely on tapped thread into the manifold or if I should weld a threaded stub on?? What did you do on your?? Manifold should be thick/meaty enough to get good thread into it ?

Im not 100% sure untill i get the manifold off and have a good gander but as close to the no2 /no3 intersection.I have a 60 mm probe which was the same on the s3(toyota turbo diesel ) but that had a blanking plate on the removed EGR so that was simple

Hi Mat,cheers for such a quick reply and yes i have heard and been told by a few guys that i can drill and tap with the whole lot left on BUT there is just that tiny tiny tiny tiny risk that it may not go to plan and something get drawn into the turbo....and we all know what these landys are like with the easiest of jobs turning into the worst of worst and with my luck i will be the one it goes tits up with!. I think for the sake of getting it all removed it will allow me a better placement of the probe and also i want to have a slight repair on the exhaust downpipe which has a corroded end which i want repaired by a friend I have a madman monitoring system that i had/have in my series 3 which i have taken out the display unit but left all the sensors probes in my s3 and putting new sensors/probes into the defender to allow it to be used in both vehicles-great system saved me a few times on the s3 thanks for the info will let you know how i get on

Hi Folks I am getting ready to drill and tap a thread to install an EGT probe in my exhaust manifold of my 1993 200tdi defender. Can anyone tell me the easiest way to get the manifold off with relation to access /least dissasmbley/least problems with stubborn bolts Is it easiest /practical to take the manifold off from the block with the turbo intact ? or do /can I take the turbo off from the downpipe / exhaust manifold and then take the manifold off seperatley?? best way to do it as all the nuts seem a real pigs ear to get too cheers all Andrew

brilliant help Western your a star thanks

Latest questions I need a bit of help on isfor a 1993 defender 200tdi lwb: A thin slate and red(S/r) wire on one half of a 10 way molded plug by the clutch master cylinder (the other side of this plug goes down to the chassis rail and to the rear lights)The other connecting half of this plug does not have a connector for the S/r wire. Anyone know what it could be for/where it goes ?? The S/r wire goes from the plug thru the middle of the Bulkhead gland then to a single idiot light next to the standard idiot lights ,then to what looks like a resistor and on to the brake check relay(number 87)where it is joined by another S/r wire which has another resistor (?) then thru the bulkhead to the low brake fluid resovoir cap . The other wires I have problem identifying are on a 5 way molded plug (The other side of this plug has no connector on/or available) wire colours: 1)Purple/orange 2)White/yellow 3)Green 4)White 5)Black /purple The other wires I have problem identifying are on a 4 way molded plug (The other side of this plug has no connector on/or available) wire colours: 1)White 2)White/black 3)Green 4) Brown /white And lastly I have a connector plug lying down inside the wing by the brake servo which I cant figure out where it could go- its not the low brake fluid sensor as previously stated that’s already on the cap already Any help in identifying the above please?

thanks for that good news Dave88sw ,really didnt fancy having to take the barrel out as have just got a new key cut!

Hi all have my ignition switch off at the moment as since i have owned the car (6 months) there has been a separate momentary push button for starting. . Ignition switch is still there but after I turn on fully, I then have to push this button to start. What I need to know is if the spring part is in the lock barrel assembly or the switch contact assembly(on the back) Took the back switch off and there is just a 'notchy' position selector but no spring return? The lock barrel which is still in the assembly also does not feel to have any spring return when key is fully turned on?? How do you take the barrel out of the housing?-I see 2 brass locating pins but how do they come out. At the moment the push start switch is bypassing the brake check relay and starter relay and I would like to get these back to standard to avoid possible later breakdown of ignition barrel/ switch contacts

forgot to add that its a 1993 defender 200 tdi

Had all my dash apart for the last 3 weeks trying to tidy up some dire wiring after lost all indicators and then a bit later all power . everything DEAD. Found a burnt white ign wire and replaced it and got everything connected (just hanging loose)today and all working but have some questions. I have fitted a new flasher unit (Lucas)and also hazzard warning switch( Britpart! ) The indicators are all working correctly and also the hazards which is better than before ,when the indicators worked but would also work when ignition was off (by the way my hazard switch had never been connected since I owned the car.) The only problem (I think ) is that I now hear the same (Lucas)indicator flasher relay click (one click) when I turn my headlights on (or flash the headlights) is this right ?? The headlights are all working correctly otherwise …..however I thought that the relay numbered no 1 in the pic below was a headlight relay(??) as it has the following wires going to it: 87 Blue, 30 Blue, 85 White, 86 Black…….. but this relay does not seem to click when headlights are operated / flashed. Do I still have a problem that needs further investigating and if so any hints on where to look? Last thing I cant decide what the following is . I have a yellow relay holder from behind the instrument panel which does not have a relay in ,wires going to it are: 86 brown, 85black (could have a tracer colour also but cant truly be sure), 87 black with slate tracer wire (2 off these to 87), 30 is empty but I have another wire black with slate tracer with spade connection in the same bundled wires going to the relay holder Pic of relay holder below All help gratefully accepted then I can get away from all this electrickery and hopefully the smoke will stay in the wire rather than coming out!

Hi all needing some help with determining what the various items I have pictured below are. Bit of background info first : it’s a 1993 200tdi 110 hardtop (which came as a limited build of 50 vehicles)from the post office here in South Africa. It has a few extras for the electronics the post office maintenance dept needed which includes seperate front and rear air con-rear air con units. Rear is installed in the rear leftside lockbox(tey still need to be fired up (currently cold and wet here so not at all urgent It has an alarm imobiliser “thingy” PAS (PAS apparently was not standard here at the time??) Things that are not working are: indicators working ok but were also working even with the ignition off the hazard warning switch was broken and put a new one in and on doing so I obviously blew something as now I have lost all indicator function(all fuses are ok –what else can I check….can you test flasher relays?) headlights were always not working correctly .1st position on stalk got side lights. 2nd positiongot headlights dipped. 3rd position turned side lights and headlights OFF?? …the flash on the indicator stalk made no effect. Pictures I need explanation of what they are and what they do please Relays numbered 1,2,3 (below fuses). Also have two more relays which are at the rear of the fuse panel one I have googled as a wash/ wipe relay not sure about the other (can post more pics if needed) In with the fuse panel is this strange looking box which pulls apart and has this inside?? Is this silver box somesort of voltage transformer and is it for the alarm system (currently not working) or could it be for the front aircon blower as it sat just below it in passenger footwell?? alarm is not currently functioning(other than one red led on the only sensor ) but if able to i would like to get it back in operation? feasable? sorry for all the questions and long post but any helpful advice much appreciated and may also help others cheers all

PM sent . many thanks

Hi all trying to get my newly purchased standard 1993 defender 200tdi hardtop up together and going to be needing some help/info with the electrics as they are very untidy with fair bit not working. Firstly I am trying to locate a wiring diagram for the 200tdi(defender)model with the relating itemized list of bits but not coming up with anything??.Have got a 4 cyl diesel one and 2.5 diesel etc but nothing specific to 200tdi. I did try doing a search but cant get any joy. Main thing not working is my main beam .I can turn the lower left side column switch and I get 1) side lights 2)dipped headlights 3) Side lights and headlights get extinguished The flash column switch(above headlight switch) has no working effect . My horn is not connected but the purple/ white wire which was laying next to the horn only give @ 3 volts?? when I push the button and does not make it sound . Also I have got what I believe is a hazard warning switch and an interior light switch down on the right hand side beside the steering wheel(has another pushbutton for start(which IS non standard) Can anyone tell me how the interior light switch operates(not working at the moment). It has 3 positions with 3 wires going into it –Purple,Black/Slate & Black-. Is it just a simple ON-off-ON switch for the interior light above front middle seat or does it do anything else. I only have one interior light . Also the hazard warning light switch beside the above switch has come apart(see pic) can they be fitted back together or is it just a case of buy new.It has a 7 wire block which is connecting to it –so does this mean its an illuminated switch(hard to tell with it in my hand) Sorry for poor quality pictures but camera (or operator) also not working ! Phew! that’s a lot of questions but I am sure I could be back for more soon Come on all light up my life

Hi all first of all thanks for previous help and advice on couple of questions on my ‘NEW’1993 defender 200tdi .Got it all back and working well today and am happy and relieved that didn’t muck it all up. A couple more questions for the experts and knowledgeable The air filter (round canister) seems to be leaking /blowing OUT air at the join (where it separates to install a new filter). Should it be blowing OUT air? or sucking air IN if it leaked?? I think the canister may have had a little ding in it so will take another look tomorrow to see if I can get it more cylindrical to help it seal. The seam is done up tight and the blowing seems to only be on tick over. I see in the parts book that the older TD`s and non turbos have an ‘O’ring that helps it seal but not the tdi. I have stripped the PAS pump and put new seals on but I am not happy with the condition in pump with some scoring and marking on the pressure plate and pump outer member plate. I have got it back on the car (belt not on)and will put the belt on it tomorrow and will hopefully all be ok for now, but what I would like to know is if I manage to find another pump that is for spares/repair is it possible to swap the marked pressure and outer member plates or would they be matched to the individual housings. I am in South Africa and parts here are much harder to come by and postage from UK would be costly which is why I am trying to keep all my options open . Lastly I have a Madman monitoring system to put in an EGt Probe and want to drill my exhaust manifold close to the turbo(from the exhaust valves).The manual says it is safe to drill through with the car on a cold idle but I do not like the sound of this and would rather be extra cautious and take the turbo off. What is easier (space/ tools /problems /time needed) to take the turbo off the manifold (I have the replacement gasket)or is it easier to take the whole exhaust manifold with turbo off from the cylinder head(don’t have this new gasket )?? Cheers all and have a great weekend Andrew

thanks very much chaps ,both your replies have answered all my questions and will get parts today and crack on with it .

Hi all from a very wet and windy Cape Town. Now that I have put you all in good spirits knowing an old Brit is shivering down here I need some helpful advice on my ‘NEW’ Defender 110 200tdi(1993). I have had the vehicle 2 months and been slowly giving it a good service and clean up before I use this as my everyday vehicle instead of my series 3 (R6),but 2 weeks ago my clutch went on my S3 so now am pressing ahead to get it up and reliably on the road . I did a cambelt change along with water pump (no problem with previous water pump but just for piece of mind), got it all back together and started and ran well BUT I noticed a small leak the next day( a constant drip) coming from the outer right side bottom of the water pump (the one closest to the alternator-as shown) When I changed the water pump this bolt was missing(but it did not leak) . When I tried to put a new bolt in it did grip so put( a 75mm) bolt in as stated in the manual. This has now started leaking through this bolt hole(must be along the threads)and now subsequently through the gasket where the timing chest joins the block. I did try taking the bolt out and filling with some blue hylomar before putting it back but still had a constant (very slight ) drips . (I think I must have disturbed someone elses handiwork with me putting a bolt in Decided I did not want to trust in trying to seal further and tonight I have taken the timing chest off (with help from the tech archives here)and the thread in the block looks to of had the first 5-7mm stripped but further in I can see a good clean useable thread. I don’t think I would want to trust drilling and re tapping to larger size as the chest looks very thin of excess metal material for a larger thread My questions are: why is the manual correct that bolt length stated is 75mm long ?? that means its only going into the block @5-10mm .There seems to be room for at least another 10mm (its already threaded there )before it would be liable to break out of the block and into the water passage way.??? I was going to put a longer piece of threaded bar in and get it bonded in then put timing chest over and in position and get it all bolted up with a flanged nut then cut off any excess. Should the back of the timing chest be oily-mine was-(Yes/No)??? I will put new gaskets on IP ,chest & water passage to chest ,I keep seeing things about a small round washer sized gasket going somewhere at the back of the timing chest to block but am not sure exactly where ,even on the manual its hard to see where it goes(Where)??? I put the gaskets on with a little smear of blue hylomar thinking this is the best(its expensive!)but would RTV be better(Yes/No)??? Will put new seals on chest for IP and camshaft Will also put 2 new ‘O’ rings on camshaft pulley securing bolt and washer. Have already done the crank pulley seal(behind the small crank timing pulley) and I shouldn’t need to replace as its only run for 10 mins max(Yes/No)??? By the way I have also heard that there is possibly an ‘O’ ring on the crank behind the small crank timing pulley but there wasn’t on mine and did not put one on is this right(Yes/No)??? Thanks all for any advice and a big thank you for the great forum

Hi all just got a 1993 defender 200tdi and itching to get out and start using it but needs a bit of tender care first . first question is pretty trivial but just would like to know Ok when i got it the engine oil level was registering quite away above the high mark on the dipstick(well into the danger mark),have read a few of the other posts about the dipstick tube falling down and after investigating found that it had in fact dropped . Repaired the tube and got the olive re pressed on the tube at the correct point (295mm from top of nut top the top of the dipstick tube). After letting all the old oil out (cold engine so let it drain 6 hours!) I measured old oil and it was 6.5 litres . Then refilled 6.5 litres (didnt fill new filter and was going to top up to 6.85 after first check) and after starting and running for few minutes to get all flowing well switched off No Leaks but the mark on the dipstick shows just above normal so should 6.85 litres quantity for the 200tdi show as HIGH on the dipstick (when cold ) or should it show NORMAL .Have just done a cam belt and water pump change and after getting it all back together have found that the missing water pump bolt was left out for a reason as my replacement has made the timing chest to block gasket to drip and also come through the new bolt hole but will save that question for another post .....sure there will be plenty to follow

thanks for the response,just norml ruler within 1mm should be -I am expecting around 32mm??? thanks

Hi all Just as the title says ,please can anyone tell me the outside diameter size of a standard(original) spring eye bush in a series 3 Landrover.will update on why in next few days.Thanks

Hi all happy Easter,I have stripped both of my front swivels and wanted to check/adjust the pre load.Got the left side all done and everyting back but on inspection of the right drivers side swivel HOUSING I have found that one of the four bolts holding the king pin in has stripped badly(almost completely-70%-its the outer rear one ) and will not torque up to the 70Nm setting,I am right in saying the top and bottom four bolts/ studs are 70nm for a late series 3(1984) ? Luckily I had a spare right housing but believe it or not even that one has 3 of the bottom threads stripped (the ones holding the swivel pin arm!!).Is this a common occurence? and what are my best options I have over an Easter holiday? the following is what I am thinking of:- 1)Could I use a spare stud I have from the bottom of the spare housing and thread it in with 'q bond' which will allow me to put a nut on top and torque down to 70 nm ? ...OR 2)drill and tap out the one damaged thread to accept an m12 bolt(still have to find a bolt to length) I dont have access to helicoils but need to get going (safely) Any suggetsions most welcome as wife is getting a bit 'annoyed ' the Easter is slipping away

Ah that makes more sense to me and i understand .as for the ratio change ,i am leaving that as standarf as i am happy with it at the moment and any faster gearing will make the wife whose pregnant decidedly less happy The vehicle as you stated rightly is a SA 109 and has now got a very plodding(happy wife )Toyota turbo diesel (2ltr !!!!!),but hey it goes(eventually) ,it stops (eventually)and it turns (eventually) .I love Land Rovers!!!

Hi thanks for the reply but bit stumped... why do you say the salisbury diff would be of no use???this is what i have in my series 3 R6 as standard ??

Hi all very urgent request please,i have the offer of a salisbury rear diff and a rover front diff from a guy but i need to get it from Joberg(south africa) and delivered to me in cape town.Found a courier company to do it but i need the dimensions and more importantly the weight of each diff .Any helpfull info gratefully recieved but need before courier picks up( hopefully tommorow) thanks all very much in advance and will let you know how i get on