Jimmy Two-Jacks
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Posts posted by Jimmy Two-Jacks
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I have been thinking about this.Would it be possible to fit a mercury tilt switch or something like that in the horizontal and obviously a method of deactivation linked to the mother of all horns or alarm klaxon type things and then if the vehicle was tilted or driven away on a low loader the inertia would activate the alarm.
This would make their low loader rather conspicuous on the road?
Just a thought Phase 2 come the poison gas and distress flares...just kidding but couldn't one of you wiring gods of the forum make the above into an effective deterrent?
Back to my shed now!
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Bulkhead would be great, thanks
HI,
15" to the face of the bulkhead.
J2J
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No not yet but I intend to when we have more consistent good weather
. I have got some 3mm thick box section aluminium and when I take the wing covers off (chequer plate but painted 
) I am going to rivet the box section to the underside of the wing tops roughly following the line of the lip with some countersunk rivets and when the covers go back on you will not see the rivet heads.Well that's the plan anyway
J2J
OK rethink needed! I will use 3mm or 4mm flat ally bar maybe angle for rigidity and follow the edge as far as I can.
J2J
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I have bought two new LPPerie rear lights because cheapo ones keep melting.
As the police are hot on tail lights failing I thought I would also upgrade them to LED bulbs.
Am I right in thinking they are a lot more reliable?
I am thinking I need two 380 type bulbs.
On ebay there is a huge selection, some from Hongkong for £1 delivered then upwards to silly money.
Has anyone got any experience and can recommend the one to buy.
Also I know the loading on LED bulbs is negligible and can make the bulb failure system over active. Is this still a problem.
Thanks
Ed
I used some combined rear lamp and stop function LEDs they are marked 1157 this might be the same fitting as 380 type, and they were pretty bomb proof until I squashed one whoops. I got them from fleabay.
I think you need a special inline resistor or something like that for new cars because the low draw makes the computer thingy think its got a bulb out.
However I didn't know Defenders had stuff like that installed
J2J
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Have you reinforced the edges of the wings? my bonnet without spare has bent the side that the strut is bolted to (only one strut).
No not yet but I intend to when we have more consistent good weather
. I have got some 3mm thick box section aluminium and when I take the wing covers off (chequer plate but painted ) I am going to rivet the box section to the underside of the wing tops roughly following the line of the lip with some countersunk rivets and when the covers go back on you will not see the rivet heads.Well that's the plan anyway
J2J
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JTJ,
How far from the back of the rail did you fit the bottom strut?
What rail is that?
I can give you from bulkhead if you wish?
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Hi 2 jacks, Nice looking job, which struts did you use in the end ?
Hi Anthony,
I used the heavy duty gas rams from O'Leary Motorhomes http://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/gas-strut-medium--heavy-duty-270-p.asp
they are perfect not too long and seem good quality and just £11.99 each.
Regards
J2J
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Well finally got round to making the brackets and fitting the gas rams to my bonnet and they work a treat, loads of lifting power more than enough to lift the big fat spare on the bonnet and keep it aloft.
Used M8 rivnuts on the wing inner lip because trying to get a nut on the back of the strut fixing was a pita
.Just got to paint the brackets but I can do this at the same time I re-do the chequer plate as even with etch the paints come off..
Oh well a two steps forward and one back
J2J
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looks good, like the finish. My ARB bumper would look good like that.
Did you use a galv primer on the bumper 1st?
For my rock sliders I used grip tape. 5m roll is cheap on Ebay. lasts well and you can always cut another strip. done the ladder rungs to
G
I used Upol etch first and then the bed paint I used the grip tape on my old bumper and that was good but the mud clogged it up so I went down the chequer plate strip route and did the same with my rock sliders.
J
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If you soak the steel parts in a good strong solution of oxalic acid after degreasing that works well on thick rust or even phosphoric acid if you can get it but keep an eye on it and wash any residue off later.
Both poison by the way as you would expect!
PS I think you can get oxalic on eBay
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If you soak the steel parts in a good strong solution of oxalic acid after degreasing that works well on thick rust or even phosphoric acid if you can get it but keep an eye on it and wash any residue off later.
Both poison by the way as you would expect!
PS I think you can get oxalic on eBay
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Simon you are a brave man indeed
I might even try that when the wife is out!
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Do you have a dishwasher?
It beats all of those!
Si
Simon you are a brave man indeed
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Hi,
Well the truth is I have only just painted it but I will let you know how it goes.
I have to agree that most non industrial paints now are so concerned with making products that contain low VOCs that they forget the product has to work as well as be harmless to dolphins and bunnies.
Some images, 1 day and counting!
J2J
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I have been refurbishing my new (to me) galvanised winch bumper in preparation for fitting to my 90.
With my old bumper I had fitted chequer plate strips so I could step on the bumper to access the spare wheel so wanted this facility with the new one.
I am not a fan of the chequer plate “one life” look or indeed bare galv so decided to paint the new bumper but wanted something tough and non-slip.
I dropped into Halfords on the way home and got some of the new range of truck bed liner paint they have got. I know you can use silver sand and metal paint but thought I would give it a try
Fantastic stuff texturizes the surface and is really tough and at £12.00 a large spray tin I thought it was good value.
I am planning to do my rock sliders as they get used as side steps and the paint just comes off after a while.
Just thought I would share the info as it’s nice to find a product that just works as it should
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Thank you,
I understood it this time
Cheers
JTJ
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Thanks
Keep an eye and ear out for the huge flash and bang in the direction of Witney
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Hi All,
I have been thinking about fitting the 13,000lbs electric winch I bought some time back and need some advice. I am going to need to make some more cables up to link the isolator between the winch and the battery and was wondering if this cable would do the job crimped and done properly of course.
http://www.ebay.co.u...49#ht_500wt_949
Anybody know what this is , it came in the same box as the winch but isn’t mentioned in the manual?
Is it some kind of heavy duty fuse? And if so do I just mount it in line with the positive feed from the battery as with standard fuse setups?
I would like to move the control box/solenoid housing into the engine bay out of harm’s way.
To be honest I asked about extending the cables to re-locate the unit before and didn’t really understand the answer as to why it was a bad idea
Could any of you winch gurus give it me in simpletons terms with subtitles for the hard of thinking
?Cheers
J2J
I have found the details on the search about re-locating the solenoid housing
but still need info about the cable -
Hi All,
I have been thinking about fitting the 13,000lbs electric winch I bought some time back and need some advice. I am going to need to make some more cables up to link the isolator between the winch and the battery and was wondering if this cable would do the job crimped and done properly of course.
Anybody know what this is , it came in the same box as the winch but isn’t mentioned in the manual?
Is it some kind of heavy duty fuse? And if so do I just mount it in line with the positive feed from the battery as with standard fuse setups?
I would like to move the control box/solenoid housing into the engine bay out of harm’s way.
To be honest I asked about extending the cables to re-locate the unit before and didn’t really understand the answer as to why it was a bad idea
Could any of you winch gurus give it me in simpletons terms with subtitles for the hard of thinking
? Cheers
J2J
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I don't think the etch will harm it but plastic has its own primer as you say. I used this and it seemed to work even with water base satin black over it!
http://www.ebay.co.u...ed#ht_500wt_715
Might be worth a look
J
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http://www.hss.com/c...ay-Systems.html (no good for outside UK though
)Airless might be good if you could get one of the now ancient Burgess airless spray guns they had a longish injector probe that would be useful.
There are lots of airless sprayers available that would do the outer face of the chassis with suitably thinned treatment etc.
http://www.ebay.co.u...c#ht_2407wt_932
Or try one of these with your own mix.
http://www.ebay.co.u...f#ht_1837wt_982
I don't know how good they are but its food for thought.
All the best
And don't forget the goggles I did and spent a week looking like a Raccoon
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Have a look here: http://www.nicksland...k/archives/1807 That should work on a defender too, but measure the vertical space first.
I like the look of that...That would probably fit too.
Cheers
J2J
) I am going to rivet the box section to the underside of the wing tops roughly following the line of the lip with some countersunk rivets and when the covers go back on you will not see the rivet heads.
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Fitting an aftermarket immobiliser
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have a removable steering wheel, security post,two isolators,and big FO anti cut lorry wheel clamp and the nosiest neighbours in England and possibly Europe.
However I know that if they are determined they will take it!