Darren Roberts

I knew the headlights had to be on, didn't realise it was on full beam only? Thanks for the heads up, I'll try them again tomorrow....

ok, found a later manual on-line and located the relay under the bonnet in front of the decker panel, passenger side. New relay ordered for a tenner so I'll give that a try. Now to locate a new relay for the internal lights and heated screen....

Hi all, 1992 Classic hard dash SE. I'm trying to sort out some issues with the electrics. I'm trying to get the headlamp washers to work. I've got main washers, rear tailgate washer but not head lamp washers working. I've check on the fuse board on the dash (row B fuse #6 - getting power and fuse ok). If I connect pump directly to the battery then it runs and pumps ok. So I'm assuming it's a relay issue. Trouble is that the wiring colours under the dash to the relay blocks don't match any of the colours mentioned in the 1991 factory workshop manual I've got. Does anyone have a diagram for 1992 please? I think I've also got issues with the interior lights and heated screen, again I think its relay issues as all fused etc. ok but again can't identify the correct relay slots. thanks in advance Darren

thanks. I looked in my paper parts manual and couldn't se them mentioned at all......hence checking with you guys....Best get a couple ordered.

Range Rover Classic 1992 with ABS. Just replacing a swivel seal and I've noticed that the bolt that acts as the steering lock stop has bent. Should these axles have striker plates on them as per part number TAU100170? Or does the bolt head just hit the swivel flange, as I've noticed it's starting to damage that? thanks Darren

Thanks. Yes I did. The irony is that the original coil (I think Bosch) and dizzy amp were ok, the new one was given to me so it just got swapped out as part of the elimination thing, and actually caused a bigger problem in the first place. Saving up some money, considering mega jolt now!

Just to close this topic off, it went into the 4x4 Specialist, they found that the malfunctioning amp caused the coil to get fried. The amp was a new Lucas one....

Wrong thread Bowie?

Sorry FridgeFreezer, getting confused..... I was going to go for the trigger wheel. with coil pack setup, leave the dizzy in for now just for the pump drive.....

Nige, I'm not 100% sure what the difference is too be honest. I was looking at one of the trigger-wheels kits - my understanding is that the dizzy stays in to drive the oil pump, unless I replace it with the stumpy version. A mate has a kit for sale, so probably have that off him - not sure if its one of your kits but he's had a few bits off you in the past.....My engine is the 3.9 multi belt....1992 hard dash rangie....

Thanks Bowie, so you reckon MegaJolt would be a good way to go to avoid these issue in future?

Guys, The rough idle has been sorted by the 4x4 specialist. I was just asking everyone's opinion on whether or not to go MegaJolt or RPI ignition amp as an upgrade?

Hi Bowie, I will check but I believe the 4x4 specialist has sorted all that, as they said they've got it running a lot better now. the only issue re the coil was that the Lucus replacement they put on it (hey supplied the original one that failed and very kindly replaced it under warranty) is that the new one was getting very hot as well. So I think the other issues to do with rough running has been sorted by them....

Hi Guys, Follow on from last thread, took the truck out on New Years Day Laning and the coil fried itself. Anyway took it on the chin and had it recovered to the local 4x4 specialist I get my parts from to let them have a look. It turns out that the new Lucus coil and the new Lucas dizzy amp are both fried, so on with a new amp and a Bosch coil, plus they've set the base idle properly.... Anyway this now leads me to the next question, if the engine is running ok I'm considering going LPG, if not then I'll leave it as is for now. But on the ignition side I'm seriously considering either the RPI Ignition Amp upgrade or megajolt. RPI are about an our away from Cambridge where I'm based. Trigger-Wheels you do the megajolt kit just up the road in Ely. Obviously mega-jolt is about twice the price, I'm looking or a really easy DIY setup and currently not considering MegaSquirt, as it's just a landing vehicle I'm looking for decent MPG and reliability, rather than power. What would you go for? thanks Darren

Ok will do. The T piece is the genuine one with the brass restrictor in it. I've got another new on so may try swapping those over......thanks again for the help. I'm also going to do a compression test as someone on another forum suggested that he cam could be knackered......

Ok update on this:- Still "hunting" when trying to set the base idle when warm. Revs fluctuate by 3-400 rpm in some cases, can't get it to idle smoothly until 700 rpm with the stepper motor isolated. I've checked for vacuum leaks - no joy with the brake cleaner trick. Vacuum gage plugged in at idle doesn't fluctutate. Check vacuum on cruise control feed, dizzy feed, rear of plenum to fuel regulator, crankcase breather on top of rocker cover. All with stepper valve isolated. Has ABS so no vacuum for brakes. Ignition strobed at 6 degrees BTDC with vacuum to dizzy isolated. So far its had:- New coil (Lucus) New rotor arm New dizzy cap (Lucas) New water temperature sender (Bearmach) New fuel temperature sender (Bearmach) New air flow meter from Ebay (not one of the usual makes - D & P)? New stepper valve with ptfe tape but no fibre washer. New hose between stepper motor and inlet manifold. New vacuum hose from top of plenum to dizzy. Plenum removed cleaned up and resealed. with gasket sealer when refitted. New leads less than 500 miles ago. New plugs less than 500 miles ago. I've gone back through this thread, couldn't find the pinned guide here but I did go through the British Atlantic guide on the web. I've now run out of ideas and now fed up with the digs from mates about it not running right. Everyone says stick carbs on it but the way I look at it it came out the factory working so using stock parts I should be able to get it back to working state without mods.....

It came with a fibre washer so it's fitted with that. Its done up quite tight so probably no air leak but the plunger probably also won't be seated properly.....

yep, 1992 with ABS.....I will drive it to get it warm and then see if I can blank all the hoses. There is also a vacuum supply for the now non functioning cruise, so I might disconnect that as well.....

Yep hose from back of plenum to fuel regulator there. Changed it to a new bit of pipe just in case there are any issues with it. New pipe is not squidgy like the one thats on there at the moment...

Hi Guys, Thanks for the words of support. I will read the troubleshooting guide tonight. Can't do anything now until the new fuel filter turns up later in the week. Temperature sensor (water is new), swapped old one bad, no different. ECU mate shows water and fuel temp. Can get the water up to 86 degrees, fuel to 30 degrees. Running green program so lambdas not used? If you go up about 5/6 posts there is a video of the ECU mate readout. Pretty sure the lambdas output hasn't changed since then. I will read the troubleshooting guide tonight - I've been relying on the ECU mate manual, and British Atlantic and some bits of RPI pages to date. All components are at leats Bearmarch of genuine LRO, the coil is Lucas. Hose from plenum to fuel rail? Not sure which one this is so I will check.....

Ok timing checked, "appears" to be ok. Really hard trying to check that even with aid of 14 year daughter, seems like the crank will move a fair distance whilst the piston is at top dead centre? Not clear whether the timing should be checked with the vacuum advance connected or not. Tried 6 degrees, 8 degrees, 10 degrees and 12 degrees. No noticeable difference. Torqued the plenum down way tighter than it should be, just in case there are leaks. **** out of ideas now and really contemplating getting rid of it, as it seems more hassle than it's worth.........any other ideas I should try before I either send it somewhere to be fixed or auction it on the bay of sins......

Hi Guys, Yes sorry forgot to mention, new stepper motor. On the timing side I checked tic was at point number 1 when I put the dizzy back in properly after it was put in 180 degrees out after the valley change, but I will go back and check that today as I didn't realise the timing marks could be so badly out.....

Today I reset the throttle pot as suggested by Joe1. I now have .32 volts and 6% on the ECU mate readout. Checked the timing at 6 degrees and took it for a run. It ran fine when cold, cam back after about 3-4 miles. Water temperature was 76 degrees, feel 30 degrees. When I pulled onto the drive it started to ticker roughly again. I tried setting base idle but the revs were jumping all over again. I swapped the MAF over, and gave it a couple of degrees more timing(now 8 degrees) but to no avail. I'm pretty confident that there is no air leak around the plenum chamber. So to recap it's had:- New rotor arm New coil New ignition amp New air hoses at the rear and front of the plenum. New temperature sensor. New leads New plugs last year (done about £1k miles if that). Replacement throttle pot (second hand but tested and gives the expected output on the ECUMate when the throttle is pressed and released. No faults showing on the ECU Mate tool. Swapping ECUs makes no difference. Swapping MAF's makes no difference. Runs lovely when cold, and hunts when warm. I'm sure the base idle will be a doodle to set once I can get it to ticker smoothly when warm. What else could cause it t hunt when warm? My next port of call was going to be new fuel filter and new fuel temperate sender.

Yep I may give that a try after resetting the timing again.....thanks

Would the tick over be erratic if the timing was out? I did time it up but wondering if the dizzy has moved?