Darren Roberts

thanks. Major hair pulling exercise now over on that front. I had no idea it would ever run like that......

Replaced my old electric seats with manual ones, but now the seat base has split and the rake adjustment no longer works. The mRs complains that they are not very comfortable, so any suggestions for a relatively cheap upgrade? Don't want to spend too much money and ideally after something manual that will simply bolt in. I've heard that P38 seats fit - is this true and has anyone here actually done it? Its a Classic 4 door- hence the seat belts in the front bolt to the seat at the bottom..... cheers Darren

Actually it was the injector connector on the right hand bank nearest the front and the temp sensor. Can't believe it ran like that or that the temp sensor and injector plugs are the same! The boots had splits it made it easier working out the colours were wrong! Thanks for your help guys.....

Ok, after working away and building work getting in the way, finally a chance to have a look. I've discovered a break in one of the three wires to the throttle pot on the loom side, so I've fixed that. So now I have on one error code - coolant sensor. I no longer have throttle pot (yeh!) and it no longer reports itself to be in "limp home mode" on the eco diagnostics. I've replaced the coolant sensor. No joy. Wired the coolant sensor directory into the eco by scotch clipping two new wires into the wires into the ECU about 4 inches from the big eco connector block - the other end was a bit of loom from an old Freelander that had the right plug for the temp sensor. Still same error. Bit stumped as to where to look next..........what should I look at next? cheers

Thanks AllyV8. Nice to know that the rocker switch is nothing to do with the ECU. Today I pulled a plug - it's getting a spark but not looking wet. Put a jerry can full of fuel in it to make sure that the tank wasn't empty. I've found the relays you've mentioned. I swapped the ecu (black bottom) to the fuel on (blue bottom) but when juggling them about, because they have metal cases on them, they seem to be live when clipping the body. I found some lucas relay out of a previous scraped rangie loom that I have for butchering. I've tried them but to no avail. It cranks, sparks but doesn't fire.... I will check the relays and if necessary buy some new ones....and try again.....

Under passenger seat? No checked them under the drivers seat. Passenger seat could be a bit tricky because it doesn't run and it's parked with the passenger side up against the garage wall. Are you thinking that maybe the fuel pump Fues has gone or something else?

I think I've fried the ECU. Cranking but definitely won't start. Checked all the fuses they're ok. I think it was the loom for the new defund electric seats that arc'd. Ordered a replacement ECU and loom off eBay. AT least I will be able to test the loom before I swap it out......

Ok, pulled the seat out today, check the ECU connectors for corrosion and sprayed contact cleaner on both sides. Can't figure out how to get the hard plastic cover off the eco plug to get to the wires. I've also noticed that the insulation has pulled off some of them when I pulled the rubber boot back. I noticed one of the relays weren't on their holders, so fixed that at the same time (but managed to earth one and get a spark). Now I have it turning over but no longer running. I'm off to check the fuses next to see if that blew one of them. The black rocker switch under the drivers seat - immobiliser? Should it be in the up or down position? cheers D

Cool......I'll check them out......thanks....

Hi All, With the nights starting to draw in, but with more lanes on the agenda to drive, I'm frequently coming back from lining trips in the dark. I have 1992 Classic hard dash - I''ve got a couple of LED spots which are very bright mounted above the number, but only work on the full beam. I'm looking for a budget (say max £100) main headlight upgrade. I can't seem to find any details about the "Clearview?" ones they did on DIY SOS. Not fussed about LED but just better than the standard 1992 ones that are on it at the moment, One is already starting to deteriorate so only a mater of time before they are an MOT fail. Any suggestions appreciated.....

Update. Today changed the water temp sensor (new) and Throttle pot (second hand un-tested). Same faults still showing although it appears tp be running and sticking over better, Used my ECUMate ti clear the faults, stopped and started the engine again. Same faults came back (14 temp sensor and 17 throttle pot). Not sure what my next port of call should be? Suggestions?

God, Bowie, now I know what you mean about the throttle pot......why did they stop making them? Might be a bit of a bitch to get one of them.....

Thanks guys. Didn't know there was a fuel temp sensor. I've got the old water temp sensor somewhere so I might put that back in and see if that cures the water temp fault....

Yep maybe, someone suggested vaseline on the seals to see which door weren't sealing, my next port of call...

Hi Guys, I've got a 1992 Hard Dash 3.9 Auto SE, been bobtailed by the previous owner. When buying it I think I recall the owner saying it originally had cats that were now removed. So I have the lamba sensors in it, but no cats (and no back box either). Its running very rich (so much the mrs won't come out in it with me!). I've invested in an ECUMate, it says I have fault codes 14 - water temp sensor and 17 - Throttle pot, it's also saying I'm in limp home mode (ticket about 1500 rpm) and the ECUMate is saying I'm running white tune with cats. This problem seems to have been getting worse since a mate replace the valley gasket for me and I had a new temp sensor, so got him to swap that out at the time. Before I start buy-in new parts, should I also consider putting the correct tun resistor into the loom? Is having the resistor with the tune for cats causing issues because the fuel map is wrong? Or should I swap out the water temp sensor and the other parts first. And when they say throttle pot, do they mean the idle control valve on the side of the plenium, like ERR5322 or is it part of the MAF? I have a spare MAF so is it worth fitting that? Or could it be a wiring issue with the loom into the MAF... thanks in advance for any help......

My 1992 Classic Hard Dash bobtail is mainly used for greenlaining. I've found recently that it keeps filing up with dust - you can write your name in the dust on the back seat. I do tend to drive with the drivers side window open, and I've recently changed from Insa Turbos to BFG AT2s but the problem persists. Has anyone out there got any instructions for the heater controls (it has air con fitted) or any other ideas where the dust is coming in from? Maybe I should just drive with the windows up and the aircon on instead? cheers D

Hi Guys, Looks like the viscous unit might be seized - will pull the truck out next week and test it as per the manual. In the meantime, anyone know anymore about this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-2-5-4-0-4-6-Auto-Transfer-Box-Transferbox-viscous-Coupling-/282214642557?hash=item41b54db37d:g:NIwAAOSwq7JT3JnP Anyone tried it and does it work? Obviously there are a fair few more P38 boxes around then Classics now..... Any info appreciated & Merry Christmas!

Just seen this come up about Section 59s being issued to off piste drivers in Thetford forest 946376048750071

Yep, another vote for ViewRanger - quite often they do a seal for a particular area of the country plus like previous posters said, per gird download....

person I'm not that keen on thing is doing it again! Now when I use full beam when the car is running it locks itself! ffs! Any ideas anyone?

Thanks again for your help - You were right about the fuseable links - one was corroded and still working but at least I could future proof it with the repair you suggested.....

Turns out I put too many relays when I put the dash back together - I remember one of the yellow slots being empty but couldn't remember which one - did\t think that putting a spare relay in the spare slot would make a difference! All sorted now....

Ok, so found one fuseable kink that was knackered, and cut it out and replaced with an inline fuse holder, and appropriate fuse. This didn't work so I pulled the indicator unit out - turns out the indicator bulb was knackered - so I've replaced that as well. I also turns out there is no power going to the bulb holder - looks like corrosion in the socket between that and the loom - tried to clean but but no success - will try again tomorrow, but at least with the right bulbs in place the remaining right hand side indicators are flashing at the right speed. Still no joy with the locking though.....

Thanks - that means I can get to that end of the loom at least. thanks for all your help so far - I'll keep you posted on progress.....

Got as far as the decker panel and only found one on a smaller orange feed - can't get to the rest without taking the decker panel off - just put it back on and that was a real bitch..... Do you know if there is a way to disable the central locking? I pulled each of the fuses in turn - C7 stops the issue with the head light switch triggering the locking but if I remove that fuse it won't start.... cheers