Darren Roberts

And if they are damaged is it best to replace with an inline fuse in a regular fuse holder?

So I have to take the outer wrap off the loom to see if the fuseable links are damaged?

Checked the earth on the inner wing today - the epoxy paint was harder than I thought. Got it down to bare metal, re-attached the arts with copper grease to help make contact and protect the bodywork where it is now bare. And nothing - same issues as before!

Cheers will do..... I was hoping that it was something that I'd forgotten to put something back after the disassembly as everything was working before I took it apart.....

Hi Guys, Need some help. My problem is that the central locking on my 1992 SE Classic hard dash is working.... Replaced drivers side inner wing, so far found three earths. 1. From chase to negative on batter via stud on inner wing - al the loom earths are attached to this. 2. Back of engine somewhere to chassis next to body mount by drivers footwell. 3. Back of engine somewhere to one of the studs holding the pedal box. The pedal box came out during the rebuild so a lot of stuff was disturbed during the work. The problem is that the nearside from flasher doesn't flash, but side and rear do quickly - I know classic earth problem. The main light switch on side of the column (for headlights etc) when the ignition is turned on locks the car.... Any ideas on a) how to fix or b) disable central locking so I can at least get a ticket on it.... I tried yanking fuse C7 which had the desired effect but also killed the starter motor..... Any help appreciated as I'm running out of ideas.... cheers Darren

Kits on eBay come with their own templates....

I agree, but like you say from the rear butt ugly. Looks like the later Vietnam era Jeep crossed with a lightweight......

LANDROVER RANGE ROVER OFF ROADER OFF ROAD PROJECT 4X4 4WD RESTORATION 2.8 DIESEL thoughts?

+3....

ditto....

I have the 150 version - I've done a couple of mods to it as per the threads on MIg Welding Forum - namely wire feed improvements and installed a EuroTorch...

Great words of advice at the end of the linky..... cages look expensive on the first pass but when you look at all of the gear the cage manufacturers need it kinda makes sense why they are so expensive.....

Don't forget that he dealer also has to pay VAT on their sales, so the tax man is going to get 20% of the margin.....

I've just brought a hardwire kit for the bobtail so I will see if that causes the same effects....

Hi GW81ZR, Yes I will give that a try. If that's the case is it a feature or is the power adaptor faulty? cheers Darren

Guys, I also brought one from carcamerashop.co.uk. Brought two docks - the first for the Rangie - as yet untested, and second for my daily driver - Nissan X-Trail T30 (old shape). Mounted the dock high on the windscreen near the rear view mirror. Really pleased with the results with one exception. The ariel on the XTrail is right above the rear view mirror. I finding with the dock powered up it's causing radio interference - it's plugged into the auxiliary power socket in the "glove box" immediately in front of the driver. Has anyone else had issues like this? Haven't contacted carcamerashop.co.uk yet but will when I find the feedback email.... cheers Darren

Recently a lane in Kings Forest (bar Thetford) was graded by the council as it was getting very churned up. Before the grading it was 1 vehicle width, after it was 2. I spoke to another local GLASS member - they believed it had been done deliberately using the definitive map as identifying the countries of the lane......

Yep Bowie, a girdle.......forgot the proper name for it....

How about instead of cross bolting having a strengthening plate fabricated across the whole block and then fit the sump on top of that. In the Rover V8 book by the same guy that does the Range Rover / Land Rover books shows an example.

I think that you might need to swap the swivels as well? I think that the swivels are handed for where the steering bar connects from the drop arm on the steering box to the swivel?

Never seen one of these before, but what a brilliant idea...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/collapsible-blasting-cabinet-/221375071359?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item338afb847f Conventional ones just take up way too much space when not being used.....

Brilliant news to hear that "your management" is on the road to recovery. Whilst you mention that you don't flap easily, I'm sure you've been through an experience that would leave many in a far worse place.....

nice one......

Hi Jon, Yes I was thinking the same but with the epoxy underneath as the protection........ cheers Darren

Hi guys, Noticed a couple of small bits on the A Pillar where the paint has got damaged and a couple of small rust spots are coming through. I pulled the packer out of the windscreen seal so I could pull the seal to get a better look. I notice that there's a fair bit more rust there and I've seen a few later classics like mine (1992) have some serious rot issues here so I want to sort it before it gets too bad. I'm thinking about pulling the screen right out (got another heated one that isn't scratched from the wiper arms like my current one), rubbing right back to bare metal the rusty parts and re-painting. What paints would everyone suggest? Else where when I had the sills replaced I used this http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/28117/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/ and overpainted it with brushable enamel that I picked up from the paint main - not good with a spray gun so painted it on.... I want a half decent finish so Ideally the top coat will have to come out of a spray can..... cheers Darren