Darren Roberts

Swapped the throttle pot today. At idle it's giving 0.14 volts so very similar to the other one that was fitted. Check the ECU Mate output and it looks like the voltage is increasing and decreasing uniformly with the throttle going down and back up, maxing out at 4.5 volts at full throttle. It goes to idle mode ok when not pressing the down on the throttle. Also just reading back on the thread, the valley gasket was changed due to a coolant leak, not air leak. It wasn't until I git the ECU mate that I realised that the TPS and Coolant Sensor weren't working properly due to the breakage on the common earth, and that it was still running a "with cats" fuel map, ah=n therefore running in limp home mode. The next step was changing the components out as mentioned above and ensuring that the dizzy was in the right way around... I'll have a another read of the documentation, the key thing I need to stop the tick-over from fluctuating when setting the base idle. .......

Hi Joe, Yes got rained off so maybe another go tomorrow with the suggestion re throttle pot. I didn't think there was any adjustment on these, I have another so I might swap it out and see if that gives different values. Today I out a vacuum gauge on the hose that normally fields the sphere which is the reserve vacuum for the cruise control (mine is disabled). On the vacuum gauge the readings constantly fluctuate. I think this is part of the problem to set base idle and 500rpm +/- 20 rpms is impossible as it's fluctuating by a couple of hundred rpm either way. I also pulled the top off the plenum today - no gasket? So I used some instant gasket to see if that made any difference but didn't appear to. Previously spraying brake cleaner everywhere didn't seem to affect the revs, but with it "hunting"it was hard to tell for sure. Yes the ECU mate sin't made anymore, cost my £80 second hand, and certify not parting with it any time soon! cheers D

Thanks Joe. Originally it was leaking from the rear of the block, so a mate changed the valley gasket for me. The breather t piece between the charcoal canister and the plenum was damaged, so replaced. Somewhere along the way the temp sensor plug and injector no1 got transposed, and eventually managed to sort that out. Then I invested in the ECU mate, and it showed errors on temp sensor and throttle pot - a broken earth was the root cause there, so sorted. The ECU mate also reported that it was running white program, the cats have been removed , so I did the resistor change. It no longer "sticks" as my wife kindly put it - as it was no longer running in limp home mode. But it still would have a very rough idea, so the rotor arm, leads, coil and dizzy amp where all changed (I usually go for Bearmach) and the dizzy put back as per factory because somewhere along the lines it had been moved 180 degrees out. Then the hose between the air control valve and the plenum was changed, and the air control valve itself. Its a lot better than it was but still "hunts" when warm. I'll try the vacuum gauge idea - thanks....

Ok checked for leaks with brake cleaner, couldn't find any at all. Changed the ECU for another, reset the base idle a couple of days ago and ran rough when warm. Pull it out tonight and it ticked over really steadily. Turn it off to move the cars' nd it struggled to start without foot on the gas pedal. Anyway got it running, took for a test drive, ran until it was fully warm. Here's the ECUMate output https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0YwqOOC8svktNJm3MpC2i3jCg Does this give any more clues? cheers

thanks Bowie, will do.....

Thanks guys. New valley gasket, new host between air valve and inlet manifold. So I will check the rest of the hoses and maybe re-torque the manifold..

Hi Guys, 1992(K) hard dash de-catted. I've googled virtually all the rough running issues and come up a blank with this one, so any help appreciated. A while back the valley gasket was replaced, and to be honest it's never run right since, due to a whole series of issues. So to cut to the chase, I've followed off LandyZone the process for resetting base idle, namely. Clamp the hose in the back of the plenum between inlet manifold and idle control valve. Unplug idel control valve. Warm engine up. Adjust base idle screw onto of the manifold to get 500 rpm +/- 20 rpm. plugin idle control valve. Unclamp the hose on back of the plenum. I've tried this twice and I can't get it to ticker at 500rpm consistently. The ECU Mate show RPM fluctuating all over the place, so when I get to the end of the process, its. no better than before. Could there be something else causing the rpm to fluctuate (sometimes by 100 odd rpm or more) when the idle control valve is isolated. So I'm figuring if its won't idle smoothly with the idle control valve isolated, it's got no chance when it's no isolated..... So far it's had New rotor arm New coil New dizzy amp New plugs New HT leads Replacement ECU. 1 lamba is showing 128%, the other lean.Its running green fuel map. All ideas appreciated. cheers Darren

Rockstar. Thanks for your help. Knowing what Range Rovers are like this could be a possible for next time!

Hi Guys, Thanks for the fast responses. 3.9 14CXU. Found the problem today, the feed for the fuel pump was non existent. When I retro fitted the 300 tai fuse box, I attempted to reuse the multi plug. This results in 3 fats wire in the loom (30 amps ) connected to 1 fat wire and two skinny ones - of course one of the skinny ones was the fuel pump. Multiplug no disposed of, crimped connectors on the loom and straight into the bottom of the fuse box. I do have another problem now (all the ignition setup is new, and dizzy strobed in today) but it "hunts" on ticker between 600 rpm and 1200 rpm. Possible dirty stepper motor on the wire control valve back of the plenum?

Hi All, So last weekend I went to drive my truck home after standing all day. Wouldn't start. Turned over ok but nothing. So this week I changed the Dizzy Arm, Cap & amp, along with a new coil. Plugs and leads are fairly new as well. Took it to my mates place to time it in as. I didn't have a timing light. Got there and parked up. About 30 minutes later, nothing! We've had a look at the ignition system and its all good, nice healthy spark. Checked the EFI and Mail relays under the seat in the EFI loom, all fine. However they're not getting powered up. Checked the power feed in at the ECU plug plus the Fuel relay feed, both getting power. Any ideas because we're both stumped! We've rigged up a power supply the the fuel pump relay (feed to pump) and it runs ok. Any ideas as to what else to look out for? cheers in advance D

Ive brought a PortaMig. Love it to bits. But checkout out Mig Welding Forum - loads of help on there......

Plenty of help on Facebook via All Terrain Uk......

Nice.....

Going to catch up with Steve hopefully late this week. I did get a quote back fro Ashford Chroming. £320 for the pair....

Last weekend in Kent - yes......

Any thoughts on this in the context of previous comments about rewiring? http://www.paddockspares.com/boomslang-performance-headlight-loom.html

Thanks Steve. I may well take you up on the offer. I have one ok and one shagged. I'll give you. shout next week when I have a bit more time on my hands...I'm after ABS ones..... cheers D

HI All, Swivels are knackered. Ot a spare set but one is completely shot, the other has only a little bit of corrosion. Has anyone had there's refinished? I know someone who brought the teflon ones and the swivel collapsed on a green lane, and it cost him a fortune to get recovered. Worse case I ws going to shot blast them and refinish with JB Weld unless anyone has any better (and preferably) cat effective solutions. PS My hardest us the ABS model so the swivels seem much harder to come by....... cheers D

Thanks Steve. Just wired them in on the stand 3 pin flat bladed plug. I think I'm going to sell them and go with the suggestions made previously on the thread. I prefer the original look of the Classic new to these anyway, even if they are better than candlelight power!

I've also noticed when dark, engine running but headlight switch off, they pulse on and off........any ideas?

Looks like with the latest MOT changes they might be being replaced anyway......I still haven't tried them in the snow but they re great at night, sealed units so no condensation build up.....

Haven't tried them yet. It's not been out since I've fitted them....

E-Marked, paid my mate £100 for them....almost certainly Chinese.

So one of my mates upgraded the headlights on his 50th 90, from one set of LEDs to another. At £100 for the set which were only a few months old (£260 new) I went down that option instead. At some point I will be looking for some LED's for the side lights as now they look carp compared to the headlights and spots. Thanks for the feedback everyone - if the LEDs hadn't come up so cheap I would have gone down the route that Bowie suggested....

Thanks Steve, but I'm going to have to skip on this one, as I want to stay manual. Otherwise I'd have had your arm off for them especially as your local!. I'm just down the road in Burwell...