crossy

have a look at the yokes - you'll soon see if the have been binding. although it sounds to me like a diff pinion bearing problem. I had similar noises on overrun - was the preload (pinion nut had backed off). doubt 2" would not be enough to cause prop problems ?? If the concrete blocks are working, pfft just do that, so much easier than mucking around with nuts and bolts, getting dirty and all.

hey mr south efrika dont know much about toyota stuff or anything else for that matter! the problem is the diff ratios..... 4.7 is too low for any old school gear box, they all will, when overdriven still return around 3000 rpm @ 100kph. anyway not such a problem, just wear ear plugs and cop the extra fuel bill. (or do a diff ratio swap and comprimise low range ability) anyway, my S3 will sit on 120kph all day at around 3300rpm no problems, at this speed wind noise far exceeds engine buzz - is never going to be a shiny turd. such is series life.

dont we all! you will need a 5 speed mated to a hs t-case to get that. (or a six speed, good luck!) and a dirty big motor to chug along at low revs. anyway, whats the hurry? imo - just chill, enjoy the scenery, it's not a race.

just take the roof off to compensate!! but yeah, know what you mean. wonder how big a difference to stability it would make? what about a big arse skid plate? I'm thinking about re-doing the mid section crossmembers, so they be flush with the chassis rails. dunno if I could be stuffed though.

yes Bill, and post more photos! you could (should) write a book on it all. maybe call it - 1001 reasons to hate land rover ??

I vote to lift the whole thing, would be so much easier ? (still not easy though!) i think mine is about three inches higher than standard. no problems with shaft angle (109) but really need to adapt a cable hand brake setup. also - you'll need to raise the engine mounts the same to ensure the prop shaft angles are kept the same. any way my 2c

has anyone actually measured the max working angle of a stock series uj?

I've got massivly offset rims and could get more turning circle......... but how far before the swivel seal runs off the ball? notice the wipe marks...

how come its the short trips causing problems? just asking, as I have just fitted jt's and do short trips to work as well!

freudian slip (sp)

what about people walking past? Ive fitted a microwave sensor in an industrial wharehouse - it would detect trucks driving past through a double brick wall.

Pretty much any carby fuel pump should work. Facet units down here are about $40.

Thanks Phill, Is there a difference between the 101 and the 109(1 ton) rims ?

Hi all, Can someone please tell me the specs of the one ton landy rims. 16 x 9 ? back spaceing ? Thanks.

Stage 1 turning circle would be the same as a normal series. (same **** different bucket) Dont know about not running a double cardin front with the Stage 1 - ok with part time 4wd and locking hubs but doubt it would be ok on a full time setup. Brakes - same as 6 cyl, but if this is too weird just fit what you have now. Same spindle pattern.

Housing is different, as its angled up as per 110 / rangies. Youll need a different (double cardin shaft). or keep the existing housing / propshaft and just bolt on the swivel /ball assemblies.

A few other things I found when I had to fix mine for a road worthy cert (mot?) Make sure the steering box is centered - ie disconnect the pitman then count turns lock to lock, count back half of this and mark or lock the steering wheel in this posistion. Set the rest of the geometry to this mark. (or an even better way is to jack the front off the ground - you'll feel the high spot as the steering is a bit stiffer. It's subtle - but there) There is a high spot in the centre of the box worm, if you are not on this high region you'll get slop. Adjust the box screw / preload adjuster so that you get light but noticable resistance on the high spot ONLY. Also - the steering box is mounted all stupid - up high on a flimsy bracket also supported by the bukhead sheet metal . Make sure these bolts and fixings are good and tight. Toe in makes a big differance to tracking, get it right and it will drive straight without constantly correcting(even with sloppy everything). If it's out, you'll be is correcting all the time.

Give it more toe in.

A mate of mine used to do the same thing, fixed up heaps of old series landies and shipped them over. Although all he really did was a quick tart up and rip the roof off. They also liked the ford cortinas - but they had to be the six cylinder versions. There must be a heap of old girls rotting away over there. (not sure if they wanted the rovers to drive or to use as land fill) Anyway, he was making a killing on that gig but got too greedy and lost the rort. He was asked to supply a car suitable for a high ranking goverment official. He sent over a tarted up premier Hz? I think he even put in flag holders on the front guards. Charged them $8k - that was the last deal he ever did.

Yet, he saw and experienced more in his 44 years of life than you play safe p@$$%&$ could do in 1000 years. I'll miss the bloke - a good honest bloke.

Now ya tell me. doh. $300 worth of machining : ( re - input shaft length : The holden conversion fitted in my heap is basically an adapter ring around 2" thick. pretty sure it's a crs conversion. I'm thinking I should be able to mill this down to compensate for the shorter ford shaft. Any thoughts ?

Here's a pic of the adapter and shaft in place. Found a ruler yet Bill ?

6 1/2 " the same as the t18/98 ?????? (from specs - haven't actually measured it though. you got me worried now) same spline as the rover. I'm a bit lost ATM as I don't have a spare bellhousing to play with. Still driving the landie

Thanks Bill. The 435 shaft (2x4 version) is long enough to (almost) exactly replicate the series shaft. (with a heap of $$$ machining) So it will use the standard series tail bearing setup. The only problem I had was getting enough spline engagement with the output gear - which is now on backwards to achieve this. The adapter is only a 1" thick plate machined up to clear the countershaft bearing cover + machined to fit the output bearing. Also I will be linking the oil fillers so the case and box share oil. (no more $%#$% leaking seal). I'm looking forward to getting this done - that 6.7:1 first gear (although the 8:1 reverse is going to be a PITA) Oh yeah this is going behind a holden 202, would there be any advantage in using a holden bellhousing over the series / holden conversion I've already got? Cheers Simon

Bill, any one? I'm fitting a ford F100 np435 to my series - I've got the transfer case adapter and output shaft sorted. Looking for advice on mounting the series bell housing to the ford box. (afaik Bills done this mod before) Bill, did you drill and tap the ford case to suit the bell - or how ??? thanks Simon