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stuck

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Posts posted by stuck

  1. I'm running 35's with a three inch suspension lift, chopped arches and + 75mm arches.

    Dosen't catch due to axle articulation but rubs a bit on full lock (easy fix, just haven't got around to it yet :unsure: )

    Mick.

  2. Hi all,

    Quick question, would you expect the power steering pump on a RRC to be able to cope with the additional steering load imposed on it by 12.5" wide Creepy crawlers?

    Power steering was fine before lift, am I just overloading the pump? :blush:

    Cheers,

    Mick.

  3. Hi All

    Making flanges and mounts for the new Hydro tank - Need a 3/4 BSP (NOT Taper ie BSPT) Tap a 1st or a 2nd to borrow

    Anyone near me (Haslemere) have one I can borrow Pretty Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeease ?

    Post up or PM me :)

    Nige

    I'm no where near you but if you don't have any luck closer to home I'm willing to post one to you as long as you send it back once you've finished with it.

    PM me your address if you want me to send it to you.

    Mick.

  4. No problem,

    My 3" lift has been purely done with suspension as I didn't fancy tackling a body lift, in short this means:

    +3" HD springs

    Long travel shocks

    Castor correction arms

    Poly bushes (whilst I was there)

    Dislocation cones

    Extended brake flexis

    +75mm wheel arches and a hour with a grinder.

    I then found that the front prop fouled the anti roll bar, thanks to advice given in this forum I've now removed this.

    Next on the shopping list will be new prop shafts as the joints look like they are under too much load from the increase in angle.

    One bit of advice if I may, before tackling this job ensure you have a bloody big trolley jack and some good axle stands, you WILL need them.

    HTH's

    Mick.

  5. Sorry that I'm asking a lot of questions at the moment but if I don't ask I wont know :ph34r:

    Just finished fitting a 3" lift and 35" Creepys to my auto and after reading all the threads I'd like to know a little more about busting half shafts (before it happens!)

    As I understand it this is less likley to happen with an auto box but assuming it's still possible to snap a shaft how will I know it's happened?

    If you break a shaft do you loose all drive or just on one axle?

    If you loose all drive can you limp home in diff lock?

    Once again sorry for all the questions but I'd rather be prepared!

    Thanks,

    Mick.

  6. hi m8,,ive mounted my 4 foot high lift across the front of the bonnet just above the range rover stickers,seems to be just fine(alough i was a little heavy handed tightning the bolts an put a tiny dent under one of the brackets..ooppsss...lol), and ive put a chain and padlock to the bull bar too(intend on keeping the jack..and handy to hold jack in case of crash e.t.c),,,can send sum piccies l8r if you like m8..all the best,wayne... ;)

    Cheers Wayne,

    Hadn't thought about the front of the bonnet, a picture or two would be greatly appreciated.

    Many thanks,

    Mick.

  7. You will find that a high lift is not the best tool with a Range Rover as the bodywork gets in the way a lot!

    Having said that, the only other places I have seen a highlift mounted is across the top of an ARB bull bar and across the scuttle below the windscreen.

    Cheers Bish,

    I tried the scuttle but couldn't get it to fit without fouling either the bonnet or the wipers, guess I could loose the use of a back door (going to weld them up any way) and bolt it across that and the rear wing. :unsure:

    I've got bumpers with jack points, not ideal but better than nothing!

    Thanks again,

    Mick.

  8. Hi Guys,

    A friend and i are trying to put a 3.5 Rangie engine in a Disco: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=project+disco

    the problem is we cannot get it started. it turns over fine, but there is no spark. we have done all the usual things (cleaned the dizzy cap etc) but there are two wires coming out of the distributer (not the cap) and i have no idea what to do with them...

    So can anyone explain simply how electronic ignition works????!!!! Apologies for the stupidity of my question but who better to ask?! ;)

    Thanks

    Taka

    They need to go to either side of the L.T. input (+ & -) on the coil.

    edit.. now i think about it one wire should be 12v in and the other should go to the +ve on the coil, sorry about that!

    HTH

    Mick

  9. I've moved the air box back and cut the trumpet down, as my snorkel tube runs down the wing top next to the washer bottle.

    Just be careful that the air box clears the bonnet.

    Sorry for the blurry pic , if needed I can take some more.

    1437.JPG

    Dengie,

    Thanks for the pictures, I would realy appreciate a picture showing how the snorkell attaches.

    Many thanks,

    Mick.

  10. You'll need to get the proper wheel nuts as the alloy ones dont fully sit home.

    Try ebay, you'll get a set for about £15-£20

    or some kind forum member will sell ye an old set i'm sure.

    Blimey that was a quick response!

    Are they a RR item or am I looking for a series or defender part?

    Thanks,

    Mick.

  11. Hi All,

    Forgive me if this is a frequently asked question but I've done a search and can't find an answer :rolleyes:

    Just taken delivery of my nice shiny 35" creepys on steel modulars and am sat here wondering if it's safe to use the rangie alloy wheel nuts?

    Obviously the shoulder won't pass through the hole in the modular rim but the taper on the end of the nut does seem to offer up squarely.

    If I can't use these can somebody please point me in the direction of some suitable locking jobbies? (Dont want my new tyres to end up on a pikey's 'van!)

    Many Thanks,

    Mick.

  12. Here is how my mate solved it on his boobed rangy :blink:

    Can get you more detailed photo, the tailgate still fully water tight and winch very accessible.

    Thanks Defcol,

    That looks a tidy job!

    A more detailed picture would be greatly appreciated.

    Mick.

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