stuck
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Posts posted by stuck
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I have some spare 3.9 manifolds if you want them.
B)
I may very well take you up on that!
I'll have a rummage in the garage on Friday and will PM you if I can't find anything.
Mick.
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Cheers for that.
Would have thought tubular headers would have been better that the 3.9 castings, you live and learn.
Mick.
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Hi all,
Hoping somebody on here can save me a lot of time and weeing about.
Before I drop the 4.6 in and then worry about exhausts can anybody give me a few pointers please?
Can I use the standard exhaust from a 3.5 EFI or will this be too restrictive?
If not can I use an aftermarket P38 system (not sure if it will foul on anything)
And if I can't use any of the above what can I use?
Sorry for all the questions but I'd rather get what I need in advance.
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Interesting this,
Had the grill off my RRC at the weekend and noticed two leccy fans on the outside of the oil cooler, assuming this is standard do people go to the trouble of fitting an over ride for these as well when wading?
Sorry for the hijack,
Mick.
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Any photos?
Don't know if this will work but here goes...
Obviously not finished but it gives you some kind of idea, roof pillars to be welded up etc/
HTH's
Mick.
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Was at a loose end today so got the grinder out!
Roof pillars are now removed, tail gate moved forward and riveted in place.
Hoping to get the plasma out tomorrow and chop the roof
Mick.
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What Steve sai - you don't need the fuel temperature sensor but the air temperature sensor (which is part of the airflow meter as standard) will need to be replaced. Nige has posted up his solution which is Fuelparts AT1010 from memory, which is a standard GM/Renault type sensor, or you can buy RS part # 151-215 which is a tiny tiny bead thermistor but you'll have to find some way of mounting it that it won't get damaged.
RS part numbers are good
Thanks for that!
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Right,
Thanks to the wiring diagram above I'm ready to get started (or will be if anyone can clear something up for me
)On the drawing above two sensors are shown, namely coolant and air temperature, the wiring diagram in Haynes shows only coolant and fuel temperatures
can't think why you would want to know how cold the petrol is so has Haynes got this wrong?The wiring diagram in the manual is for a '88 / '89 EFI (Current engine)
Thanks,
Mick.
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Any chance of a copy Nige?
Pretty please!
Mick.
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Yes you can but I believe Mr FF runs a 4.6 himself so all the maps you could want are there for the asking.
Steve
Thanks for that Steve,
FF: do you have maps for a 4.6 mated to a '88 ZF box? (assuming the bloody things will mate together
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at a guess and only a guess it will need a remap....
But I can do that myself right?
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Oil pump, water pump, depending on inspection cams tappets and rockers. then chip it and get the fueling correct.
Thanks for that,
Going to squirt it (assuming the kit I bought from Fridge for my 3.5 will be compatable!
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Hi all,
Just picked up a 4.6, obviously I'm going to strip it before I spend any £ on it.
Assuming the block is in good condition are there any bits I should look at upgrading while it's in bits?
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Fit 24 spline ARBs and you can use your existing axles if you're using Ashcroft kit with them.
Not much point in buying 24 spline axles if you're going to bin most of the expensive bits.
I had wondered about that so thanks for the info, didn't realise I could fit 24 spline shafts in a standard axle case.
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I think that post was made a bit tongue in cheek!!
It is undoubted that lockers are a huge help. However, as with most things in life, used unwisely they can get you into trouble - a truck with no lockers may loose traction and decide to reverse out. Matey with lockers may get a few car lengths further, but as Tony says end up in a world of pain or clear the section........ it is all down to the drivers ability to drive and read the terrain. (That or send the biatch in first!!)
As for front and rear - I agree with Tony - unless you spend a huge amount of cash on your front axle, you will be too scared to use a fornt locker so I would fit one in the rear and be amazed by the improvement in traction it gives you. When you have saved up again and/or got more "hardcore" in your off roading then consider a front locker.
Thanks very much Bish.
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In all honesty I'd say rear and use it for a while
BUT fitting a Front one gives you a 4 pin diff into the bargain
so you kill two birds with one stone.
If you have the ££ then both is an investment as long as you budget for some stronger shafts/cv's
or you'll bust them next being the weak link.
Latley people have been selling L/R axle for bigger gear a bargain may be out there just waiting
Sorry Tony but you've lost me there
£ isn't an issue but I haven't got a clue what you mean by "4 pin diff", I know having two lockers will give me true 4 wheel drive though
Currently looking for 24 spline axles so I can give Mr Ashcroft even more money
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Thanks Tony,
Are you saying that they are worth fitting on both axles or only the rear?
Mick.
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Cheers Gents,
Just made the mistake of looking at snap-on, FFS is their tackle that good?
Best part of £2000 for a bloody tool box
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Hi all,
Can't find it now but I've read a post on this forum that states that lockers are not much use in mud and only get you more stuck.
Can anybody confirm or refute this?
Surely lockers will be better assuming you dont drive with the silly pedal welded to the floor?
Thanks,
Mick.
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Hi all,
Can anybody recommend a proper HD 1/2" air rachet please?
I have two fleabay ones and they are f*****g useless, my 10 year old daughter can produce more torque!
Not too worried what it costs as long as it does the job on a 10 Bar 15 CFM air suuply.
Thanks,
Mick.
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Anyone done this with a Gas MIG? What sort of weld do you get?
Thanks
Les.
Yep, several times using MS wire and Argon / CO2 mix.
I dare say it would look better with SS wire but it does the job.
Got some scrap SS at home if you want piccies.
Mick.
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Why do you need a chipping hammer with a MIG welder?
Les.
To beat the cr@p out of the welder when the wire feed jams for the 100th time!
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and,
Gasless MIG - not good.
Good point: Wolf gasless mig - very not good.
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Wolf welders - Not good.
can't think why you would want to know how cold the petrol is so has Haynes got this wrong?
4.6 Overhaul
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Right then,
Block in bits so the first of a few questions I'm afraid
I've read that any rover V8 that has done in excess of 75,000 miles should have the cam shaft bearings replaced, question is should I bother if all seems ok?
(Maybe I should stop reading so much
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Thanks,
Mick.