stuck
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Posts posted by stuck
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Doh!
Didn't have 12V at the coils AND had crank shaft sensor polarity wrong
(nice to see the 4 years I spent as an erlectrical apprentice haven't gone to waste 
)Any how she runs!
Like a bag of smelly stuff but that's hardly suprising considering I only have the basics connected!
Thanks very much Gents
Couple of questions:
1) Where can I get a custum set of quality HT leads made and how much?
2) What do the status LED's on the ECU mean?
Thanks again,
Mick.
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Thanks Gents,
Work permitting I will have another go tonight.
Mick.
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The connector pins correspond to the coil pairs on the coil packs, so the left pin fires the left towers and the right pin fires the right ones. From that info, and the EDIS-8 wiring, you can connect your plug leads as per Nige's diagram:
Gent's tried to start the truck today in "limp" mode as I need to move it off the drive so I can get a lathe into the workshop, can't get it to start though
It's chucking fuel in but not even trying to fire.
Looking at Nige's diagram can anybody confirm the edis pin out in relation to A , B , C & D please?
For the record I don't have the air temp, coolant temp, O2 sensor or idle valve connected (I've learn't that I have to upgrade a transistor so don't want to risk burning it out), think should at least fire shouldn't it?
Only other question I can think of asking is is the crank sensor polarity critical?
Sorry for all the questions but I've been on my own today so haven't had anybody to crank the engine whilst I check voltages.
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Where abouts in Lancashire are you chap?
Will probably have some wire you can have if you aren't fussy about matching colour codes.
PM if you still need some.
Mick.
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As Tony has said ^^^^^
My RRC is fitted with 35" tyres but requires a 3" lift, chopped arches, not to mention castor correction arms, extended arches & roll bar removal.
I suggest you do a search on lifts within the Rang Rover thread.
HTH's
Mick.
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Cheers FKD,
Picked the lathe up today, it isn't a Mascot after all, it's a MK2 Student.
If I'm honest it's more the size I was looking for and although it's almost an antique it appears to be in fine fettle
As it's 10 years since I've used a lathe I think I best scrounge some scrap!
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Thanks for the replys gents,
Incredibly I've been given a Colchester Mascot today!
,It's about 10 years since I used a lathe so would appreciate any pointers relating to decent makes of indexable tools etc..
Cheers,
Jammy person I'm not that keen on. - edit what I typed dosent translate to well!
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Hi all,
Looking for a combination lathe / miller as I don't have space for seperate machines, have come across this:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...lathemill-drill
Problem is most of the stuff I've bought from MM has turned out to be complete $hite which I've ended up replacing with something more spendy.
Question is would this go the same way?
I'm a bit worried that the stand / suds tray is an extra and I can't see a lube tank any where...
Would greatly appreciate it if anybody could recomend a decent piece of kit for reasonable money.
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Sorry to interupt Glenn,
Gent's I'm still at wiring stage on mine
can anybody confirm the wiring details for the EAV please?I'v had a good read but I'm not sure of the pin out for a two wire system.
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Why not just buy a Tornado?
Marc.
Oh carp!
I wish you hadn't posted that link, spendy but very very nice
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Nice one,
Thanks very much once again Bish, Saved me a load of brain work.
Mick.
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Anybody made a rear bumper for a classic that incorperates d-shackle swivels for winching?
If so any chance of a piccie?
If not I guess I'll be busy this weekend!
Cheers,
Mick.
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Hi All,
Could anybody tell me what I should be paying for a replacement screen for a '87 classic please?
Obviously want it fitting and it's not the bonded type.
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Geoff,
If you are only just starting out with a mig I strongly suggest you have a look at this website:
www.mig-welding.co.uk
It's as friendly and useful as this one and has some great tutorials.
Whilst you are there register for the forum and look up a member called weldequip, if he can't find you a part nobody can, on top of that he's a nice fella and gives very reasonable prices.
HTH's,
Mick.
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^^^^^^^ + 1 for Halfords Pro
Wouldn't buy anything else from there though
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yep they are jackable - the highlift goes under the treeslider part and it jacks fine with no movement.
I make the cuts with a saw most of the way thru the tube, then go down the top half or so with a grinder to widen it a bit further, V the groove out - get it into the right postion then weld it round then grind it flat.
Thanks very much David.
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As there have been changes am I still right in thinking that I don't need either a IVA or SVA for my pickup?
Chassis hasn't been modified in any way.
Thanks,
Mick.
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they can be made to any protrusion you want - but the ones above we made stick out from the slider face by 78mm (just over 3" ish) and this puts them about an inch wider than the widest body of the disco.
the tube is 33mm x 3mm , the box is 100mm x 50mm
if you need any further help , let me know as I have details on where the cuts are made to make the curve too.
Thanks very much David,
A drawing of where to make the cuts will save me a headache and would be greatly appreciated.
Quick question, would you consider your sliders to be "Jackable" with that wall thickness?
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Wow, cheers gents!
Any chance of letting me know what size box and tube you used as they look damn fine.
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No idea mate - don't have a RR anymore
:( Try dropping a plumb line from the most sticky out bit of the door and add a bit to that. If you do both sides you can average the measurement to compensate for saggy springs / lopsided driveway!
Could well be 3 feet on mine!
Cheers Bish.
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Because the RR sill is curved vertically, it is quite difficult to get home made rock sliders to look the part IMHO.
If you do make some, make sure you put tree sliders on them and make sure they stick out a LONG way otherwise you will still trash your doors (ask me how I know!!
)Sorry for dredging this up Bish but could you give a distance for "a LONG way"?
Is around 3" sufficent?
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Right Gent's,
Sorry about this (please don't flame me, I have searched!) but can anybody help me?
Made a start squirting the RRC 3.5 efi today 'cause the bloody thing wouldn't start again, question is do I have an "Idle Stepper Motor" as refered to on Fridge's wiring diagram?
If I do what the hell does it look like?
Many thanks,
Mick.
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thats looking really good mate
what wheels and tyres have you got on it as they are what i want on mine
Thanks!
Tyres are 35" Creepy Crawlers, wheels are just plain black steel modulars.
Can I ask what colour the truck in your avatar is please? I like it a lot, it's subtle just like me!
Mick.
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Are you going to modify the block sufficently to accept a 4.6 crank?!
Would have thought you could buy a OE block for less £
(nice to see the 4 years I spent as an erlectrical apprentice haven't gone to waste 
)
,
:( 
)
Alloy Fabrication - or the weld bead as an art form.
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
'kin hell!
If that is done by hand that guy has skill!
Wish I could tig that well!