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Posts posted by stuck
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Last pulley I took of was with the engine on a stand in the garage.
Fitted the puller with all its legs trying to flop all over the place.
Reached behind me for the spanner, lost my balance, grabbed puller to regain balance, flat on back with puller and pulley in lap.
Answer to your question....not as tight as I thought.
Steve
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Simple when you know how.
Thanks very much for the info.
Mick.
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what lump? and is it in bits?
That info would help!
Sorry it's a 3.5 EFI and the lump is not in bits.
Thanks.
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Sorry about this gents but I've never had to do this before so how do you prove No.1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke?
Next question is will I need pulling gear to get the crankshaft pulley off?
I'm awaiting a box of bits from Mr fridgefreezer, as a sparky the wiring side dosen't bother me but as you can see I'm a bit tick when it comes to the rest of it!
Cheers,
Mick.
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Thanks very much for the pictures Dan,
Fine looking truck.
Is there any chance of a picture of under the load bed cover? Especialy the area where the rear roof pillar used to be?
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Had a similar problem on the rangie (but near side front), almost spent £100 on a professional Gunson Vacuum unit until the guy in the shop recommended the Gunson Easibleed at £18.
I'll admit I was sceptical but five minutes after getting home the problem was sorted.
HTH's
Mick.
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If you want to do it the easy way have a look at this, http://www.longranger.net/page4/page3/page3.html
I'm currently doing this to a Disco but the kit will fit a RR as well.
HTH
Brookers
Thanks for that Brookers, could save me a lot of work!
If you don't mind could you let me know what's in the kit and how much it costs? (PM me if you prefer)
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Don't forget if you shorten the chassis (rear overhang) then you will need to pass SVA.
Steve
Thanks Steve,
Going to leave it full length for exactly that reason!
Mick.
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Hi all,
I want to convert my '88 four door into a pickup (going to loose the rear doors), while I work out what to do I was wondering if anybody had any pictures of how they've dealt with the roof pillars?
I know it's a long shot but I'd appreciate any pointers before I get carried away with the grinder!
Mick.
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ROFL?
PM if necesary please!
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Nearer £1000 than £500, I reckon, for an external RR cage.
I'd just ring them and ask.
Will do, cheers.
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Thanks Bishbosh,
Didn't think I'd get away with welding it.
I'll give them both a call on Monday, don't mind paying deccent money for decent kit, what are we talking? £500? £1000
Mick.
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Hi all,
I'm looking for an external cage for my 4 door classic (soon to be a pickup), thanks to this site I've come across Protection & Performance in Skipton which isn't a million miles from me.
Can anybody give me a guesstimate how much they'd want for a cage?
If it's going to be a fortune would a cage with welded bends (assuming good welding!) be strong enough / MSA compliant?
I only ask because I don't have a tube bender!
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Once you know the thread PM me your address and I'll stick one in the post.
Mick.
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I have a few lying around, do you know what thread your's is?
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Cheers Gents,
Looks light my wallet is going to get even lighter.
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Thanks Gents,
Will have a look at the weekend.
Mick.
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I think you do hence the question.
I love getting covered in mud though so not a problem for me
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I think you would have to use a self etching primer first.
I hope somebody sensible will be along soon to confirm or deny that!
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As I know X-Eng usualy get a good review and contribute to this forum I was wondering if anybody can vouch for the effectiveness of their ground anchor (especialy in soft ground)?
I've only ever used the ones where you knock a series of spikes into the floor before so I'm intrigued as to wether this one works.
Many thanks,
Mick.
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Ah, right it's a mucky job then
Cheers for that.
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Fridge,
Wanting to purchase a kit, PM sent.
Mick.
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Hi all,
Since buying my '88 3.5 Efi auto I wondered why I had no reverse lights, wasn't top of my list but at the weekend I got around to whipping the lens covers off to find that the lamps had been removed.
Reason this has been done is that there is a permanent 12V at the lamp holder, I'm assuming there is some kind of (proximity?) switch somewhere on the box, my Haynes is a bit vague on this subject but I think I have to take out the trany tunnel to get at it, is this correct?
If so how big a job is it and can anybody give me a part number for the switch before I pull it apart?
Mant thanks,
Mick.
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IMHO,
Do you care about MPG?
If the answer is no V8
If the answer is yes go diesel
Both have benefits and limitations.
Auto Welding Mask
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Mine's an Esab Eyetech II,
You look like ET waring it but it's a bloody good mask.
HTH'S
Mick.