Blanco
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Posts posted by Blanco
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7 hours ago, Peaklander said:
What’s that @Blanco?
I thought Top Hat Liners were the curall for V8's? but as I also said they wouldn't be my favourite (or indeed something I know much about except the money I once spent fixing and swapping when I didn't have the time or facilities) so I expected the some other comments on what might be the issue with that engine given the new HG's an so on. My apologies if it was too obscure.....
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I think P38's are on the up gently, good bodywork helps a lot though, shabby drivers seats are easily cured by swapping in a passenger squab. But window trims and door locks require more investment and are harder to find. Head lining is one of those that seems daunting to tackle but go carefully and get an assistant and it is actually straightforward. I would buy one like a shot near that money just for the spares value, they do have their issues but everything is generally well covered here or in the RangeRoverPub. I am not a particular fan of the V8 but the 4.6 is the one to have. Sounds like it might need THL treatment? Plenty on here will chip in on the V8 side. I would make sure to include all the LPG system in the deal, although LPG seems to be sliding left gently? It is a great vehicle, I say yes
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1 hour ago, Ed Poore said:
They'll have all thicknesses of milk steel in stock.
Along with the Milk-y Bars
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Actually been running around in it since this morning, seems OK except that it took several starts with Easy Start before it would start by itself. I think the pump timing does want checking, it seems little better than my old one at starting but otherwise I have what seems to be a good replacement engine, no smoke. I tend to the view now that the FIP had air and/or dirty (or 'alternative'?) fuel in it and until it was all cleared through with clean fuel it didn't want to play. Just need to get re-gassed now.
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I favour the genuine variety, it's an awful thing but a new one works reasonably well. I had a rigid piece let into the original hose for a while but it was never satisfactory. A new genuine part should do you pretty well for say 10 years.
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.... and the solution was.........., wait for it ............ Easy Start! .... must've been an air lock in the FIP or something, althoiugh fuel seemed to get to the injectors well enough, can't believe it now that it was that simple, probably wasted all this week on head scratching.
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Timing has been on my mind, .... I wanted to check the pump timing before it went back in, ( my old engine was a sluggish starter) but the adapter kit to use the DTI on the back of the pump still hasn't arrived from the UK (well I think it has but it is stuck in the BS mess left by Brexit). But as far as the FIP goes it was running before and should run now?
I discovered that Nanocom gives me a timing (modulation?) reading of some sort which was about 94.5, which sounded good to me. I keep thinking I might have installed the flywheel incorrectly but looking at it again, it only has one orientation.
I have the loom swapped over this morning and I am just about to refit my old injectors, which although higher mileage have had a couple of fuel system cleaner treatments through them and were working pretty well.
I am double checking the injector pipes, but I am sure I have that correct, and I marked them all anyway.
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Decided to go with 'known' good parts from my old engine, changed the crank sensor last night (hell of a job getting the old one out, it left it's outer plastic cover inside the hole) no improvement. Have removed the old injectors and the engine loom this morning and will swap them in, if that doesn't work then I have run out of time really before we go to Scotland next week so it will be the Polo instead of the RR
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Well harder than it should be! The TC only resisted for a minute of two and I held it in with a small hardwood wedge, that part went very well. Swinging the engine in went very well. The apparently 'dry' engine, wee'd all over the floor as soon as I turned it over so out came the rads again and I swopped in all my old water pump, t'stat and heater pipe at the front, just got it back together again but no start,.... I am quite tired of it now, and just a bit grumpy. Fuel is through to all the injectors, compression test is good all cylinders 380/390 psi. Stuck for what to do next really. No messages or beeps. Any thoughts greatly appreciated as always.
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Nothing special, ... he put a 2nd hand V8 (which I sourced) in my LHD Calififornian RRC County for me in his Banchory days, and did a bit to keep my 2A SWB legal when I was to and fro from France, he probably remembers my little brother Alan and his RRC's more than me , Alan still lives in the area south of Stonehaven, but as he hasn't had anything with a green oval badge for a while I doubt he has called on Tich for much in recent years. Tich was well thought of then, quite a few of the lads in our business (subsea projects) had 4x4's in those days and he was where we went for larger repairs we didn't have time for.
Interesting to see Dunecht 4x4 appear earlier as well, that was very much a sales operation back in the day, might have been a bit of servicing but I don't remember anyone using them for mechanical repair. I used to pass them everyday on my way to work.
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... well there's a name from the past, I remember 'Tich' at C&D though? ,... mind you I am going back more than 20 years!
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Just looking at Rave for the D2, I can see that flushing the intercooler is a maintenance item, although it doesn't say what interval. I did wonder when I first saw your query whether it might be the fuel cooler, but it seems it is the intercooler which is effectively an air to air 'radiator' for the turbo, it is fitted at the front of the engine bay along with the engine rad and the condenser (assuming you have A/C). Rave is here and it is page 123, the links in the PDF work so you can navigate around. There is seemingly a real LR solvent, but most would use petrol as a readily available and cheapish alternative. just make sure it is well aired before refitting. As important as flushing it is checking for leaks/any sign of oil on the outside..... just found my P38 has an issue there. if there is a lot of oil inside then check the EGR system, if you clean that and the problem remains then it may be that the turbo is failing. HTISH
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Thanks for the tips on the transmission. Spent the day sourcing parts (major pfaff post Brexit, minimum carriage from Paddocks is now 45 quid!) and cleaning, and bolting the best of the ancilliaries on the replacement engine.
Just leaves the engine bay to clean up, 'pop' the TC back in and swing the new one in,..... how hard can it be?
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Eventually got a grip on things and prepared to hoist it all out,.....
And all went pretty well, the only real cock up becoming apparent right at the end when the engine had to be slid forward a surprisingly long way to disengage the transmission,.... in my defence it is the first time I ever separated an auto transmission and of course I was being guided by Rave which naturally doesn't cover disconnecting the flex-plate!
Still I got there, and the better half turned up just in time,..
Note puddle of ATF groiwng below,... oops!
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Some of the transmission bolts were tricky, .... there is a range of different bolts used. 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 8mm Allen, 10mm Allen. My toolset was weak on 15mm until a legacy just a few weeks ago and I was very pleased to have some extra spanners to hand. The two most tricky to get at were this one with limited clearance width wise and length wise, with the added difficulty of having the shoulder of cast block just adjacent and the top starter motor bolt which defied most regular tools except 12 point ring spanners. (Edit, that obviously is the top starter bolt, must've been the one next to it!)
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That was the easy part really... took me ages last evening trying and failing to get the heater hoses off...
I managed this morning having slept on it I made a couple of mini shepherds crook type tools out of high tensile fence wire and managed to separate the rubber from the steel pipe............
Two other items of interest in this shot, .... if you remove the engine on it's own then you don't have the benefit of the LR designated lift point which is attached to the gear box, so you have to get creative to lift the back of the engine, I elected to go right underneath and loop round the LH engine mount bracket, there really isn't much to get onto on the back of the RH side.
Also while I was standing on the front crossmember rigging up I noticed that the low pressure reservoir pipe over to the ABS pump was rusting through and needed replacing, I don't know why it should fail, but clearly it has.,
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OK, so I got started...........
It took me a little while to remember what where which order, but the front does come out of the P38 quite handily
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Thanks Simon, I guess the V8 and the diesel are a bit different but Plan A is to go that way unless someone flags up an issue.
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So the AC is getting drained Monday morning and the plan for the week is to haul the old lump out clean up the engine bay a bit and slot in the lower mileage replacement. Pics will appear here as I get stuck in.
Just looking at Rave I see that LR haul out the engine and box together, which might be tricky by myself, is there any reason why the engine cannot be removed by itself? Anyone been there?
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Looking good Ed,
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... Arjan has it in a nutshell I'm afraid, you will get some interest out of the generic OBD readers, but fot the P38 in particular there is only really the Nanocom, a shame because the customer service is patchy. Although one of the V8s apparently talks to OBD, but I can't remember which one, I presume the earlier version.
Maybe find out on a transit forum which is best for that and see how far you can get with the RR as a bonus?
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I had one, for a couple of years,... awesome off-road, ... never thought about a camper though, I was hauling timber at the time.
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One more for the mix......... LINK
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To answer the title, definitely something going on there. ....
I had a near miss when I sold a sawmill a while back, I took it to the North of Ireland and recieved a carrier bag of used notes (Stirling) in return. Very careful to find the nearest branch of my own bank in the North before I left and went straight round to deposit same. The teller refused to take it at first on the grounds of insufficient paperwork for the sale (handwritten note). I said that we needed to speak to someone who could authorise the deposit because it was absolutely unreasonable to expect me to walk out of the bank with the bag now that everyone behind me knew about it, it took a couple of minutes to 'consult' but problem solved! The machine there handled about 5 different 'Northern' types of note ( like Scotland they have their own as well as the UK variants) and the result was spot on, I was pleased as I had randomly sampled the bundles rather than a total count.
Should I buy this?
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
I kind of have that problem,.... but I have decided to be brave and start a couple anyway, ... As I still have a P38, .... at least for the present, there aren't any cars at £500 over here and I would be glad of one for spares and fittings.... bits to refurb and then swap: rather than have the truck off the road as it has been lately for the engine swap.