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Everything posted by Blanco

  1. When you say 'steam train' I think white smoke?, only turning black when you boot it, ? just wonder if its worth checking the valve caps/clearances????
  2. If I were George I would be out playing in the newly re-launched RR, it is the summer holidays after all, mind you I hope he is somewhere other than home at the moment given the 'temperate' nature of the locale
  3. Hmmm, just having a quick look it seems the big difference is working pressure, ...... ACE requires nearly twice the pressure that the steering does??
  4. They look a bit like this...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-TRACK-ROD-END-BALL-JOINT-RUBBER-DUST-BOOT-COVERS-GAITERS-2X/182729866045?hash=item2a8b8c7b3d:g:fA8AAOSwxzBZndZF Found on all the ball joints,.... steering arm, track rods etc. When the cover goes the grease dries out, then the dirt and water get in and dramatically shorten its life. Usually people just change the ball joints but if you have greaseable ball joints that you have kept in good shape then replacing the boot is probably worthwhile. Splitting the balljoint can be a challenge, be sure to clean the threads before removing the locknut. HTH
  5. I had the same issue and I can report that the fix does work, ... I bought one from ebay that doesn't seem to be there anymore but there are a couple of others offering a similar thing, I wait till the heater plug light goes out and count an additional 7 seconds after, it starts immediately.
  6. You are correct I think in your assumption that much of the oil capacity,.... between 40 and 50% is in the hydraulic circuits/valves/TC etc. I got the tip from here that the longer you leave it to drain the more you get out, mine is the HP22 box and I got about 8 litres by leaving it overnight. If you have the whole kit then after No.5 in Bowie's sequence above, remove the sump and replace the pickup filter etc.
  7. First question everyone will ask is...... does he know to pre-lubricate the turbo before start up??? ..... it really is important to get a good flow of oil flowing uninterrupted through the feed and drain before lighting up. ...........other than that, we can ask about the general health of the engine and its oil pressure, and the source and quality of the turbos/cores he is using? Older engines with unknown history can suffer from blockages in the oil feed, some people automaically renew the feed pipe with the turbo. HTH
  8. That looks like a decent finish, .... great hack the soft soap, beats trying to mask round the edge
  9. Goodyear have some good deals available at the moment, either online or at your local retailer, https://www.oponeo.ie/details-tyre/goodyear-efficientgrip-suv-255-60-r18-112-v-xl-fp#263214709 I was looking at these for my P38 (not your size, I know) but its a good site. My local guy fits and balances internet purchases for €15/ea. Putting two on can never be recommded, but in practice if you do short journeys and low mileage it is not likely to bite you, bear in mind that old tyres are recognised as a big safety issue now, so if the runners you plan to keep are 5yrs plus and it wasn't you that put them on then maybe change them anyway?
  10. This afternoon's efforts, Followed by an in vehicle re-bleed. ..... got quite a bit of air out on the bench and was hopeful, ... but no joy, .... might see if I can pick up a kit for the original master while in the UK over the next few days and try rebuilding that.
  11. I was young and for the most part they were very cheap
  12. Just went to see what is left,...... Just missing roughly in order,Morris marina 1.8/ Alfa Sud 1.2 Ti/ Triumph Dolomite 1800HL/ Austin Princess wedge 2200HL/ 1959 Mini (too rusty, never got it on the road) Then the first Land Rover, 1961 series II, after the Volvo 245 estate I had an Astra (1982) 3dr diesel, a Merc 1984 207 van, a 1970 Series IIa SWB, a 1981 polo bread van, a Merc 250D 1985, then my first Range Rover a US import 3.9 'County' LHD (we were off to France), From France just missing the Golf diesel, the Grey Fergy the Iveco 4010, An Astra estate briefly, couple of horse boxes and a Manitou! Its been fun
  13. Back in the day, early in 1996, there was a school shooting in Scotland and handguns in particular were suddenly very unpopular. I inherited a 9mm Browning Hi Power from my late Father just a couple of months later and it was impossible to get transferred into my name even though I was already a shotgun and rifle permit holder and shooting regularly at the local range (Kemnay), I still have it although deactivated, I didn't realise at the time how crude a process that was, it was very upsetting to see a nice piece butchered the way they did. Have now moved house too many times to have kept all the manuals, but it would be good to line those that are left up, its surprising how it adds up when you go through them all.
  14. So I was fairly sure the problem was an airlock in the Master, so I pushed the pedal to the limit of travel and tried again, that makes 4 litres of fluid gone through now! Still no miracle cure.... retired hurt to ponder it further.
  15. I had lemforder steering/trackrod kit a while back for the P38 and wouldn't rate the quality, not the same thing I know. I have had other Delphi ball joints and reckoned they were fair value. There is a polybush option, which I hear suits the D3 a bit better than perhaps it does a Defender??
  16. Strangely it has a BS Kitemark, but I have a remnant of Cunifer and it is definitely a different colour. Work hardening could also result from pressure cycling but at least rust isn't an issue. Back out there in a bit to investigate why the pedal is not firming up............
  17. And so.... in between other stuff 'Blondie' sat for a while, ... quite a while really, I did use her a couple of times to go shopping and stuff, but not much in truth, I had hoped to go to a couple of the vintage shows now that the season is here, but for the local one last weekend, not only was it hissing rain but I had no working brakes so that was that. The brake story started just before we had visitors back in June, with a puddle of 'oil' under the LHF wheel, at first glance I suspected the swivel which seemed wet but as hands were full with our guests I didn't get a chance to have a look for a couple of days. On closer inspection I had a leaking union behind the front hub where the flexibles come down onto the axle, two short rigid pipes traverse the hub from the caliper to the support bracket for the flexibles and the bottom joint of two where the rigids meet the flexibles was leaking. Tightening the joint achieved nothing, so started to investigate. Removing the caliper revealed several issues apart from the split copper pipe end, the DIY 'underseal' had reacted with the paint on the 'new' Britpart backplates and they were consequently going pretty rusty, the caliper was old and rusty anyway, the S/S flexibles were crushed in 2 places (?), and most worrying the original steel rigid pipes where they pass through the inner wing were so rusty i do wonder how they passed the recent test, have to assume they were overlooked. I am afraid I only think of the camera when it is too late, but the following give some idea of where I have been tinkering: The lower joint above was the original problem. I ordered 4 flexibles (imperial) from Paddocks and got three different manufacturers! I also cleaned up the filthy mess and sprayed the backplate and the caliper in zinc primer just as a temporary measure. The rigid pipes were replaced in copper (pure copper over here, 'Cunifer' doesn't make it over the water?) On the LHS the pipes were fine just inside the inner wing, and so I jointed them, on the RHS the pipes are very short into the Front/Rear manifold, so no joint was necessary. The problem now is that having filled the whole system with fresh fluid and bled through, I still have no pedal?????
  18. That's funny it looks just like the ones I have just been removing from 'Blondie' my 2dr RRC,...... I 'missed' a DPD delivery today (master cylinder for same), otherwise I would have posted a few pics of my own. .... waiting in for it tomorrow as well now, (I don't think he ever came near me, it hasn't happened for a while but sometimes when you live in the sticks they take any excuse not to get behind schedule)
  19. Makes sense, I just assumed it meant lateral displacement, I need to try and hone my scientific deductive powers if I am going to keep this P38 on the road!
  20. Thanks, .. I guess my script assumes some familiarity with the P38 system, (and which I now feel very familiar with). There was a post-script to the compressor story, I felt at the time I was eliminating me/my rebuild as a potential weak point, the supplier phoned me when my 'return' unit got back to them to say that there was nothing wrong with it!, so at the time I was really puzzled as to what was at the root of my trouble, the 'guaranteed' elimination of my compressor failed totally as it turns out their unit was faulty. This is the main reason why I altered the pipework and included the guage so that I could understand what was and wasn't happening. Re-test is now tomorrow, once I have that in hand I will set about investigating the engine breather and doing a compression test (also a long overdue 'Roundtuit'), if there is no cause for concern then its probably time for 4 new tyres, 3 of them being 'advisories'.
  21. Well I am long overdue for an update on this, it didn't last long........... the repaired compressor I thought was probably at fault (just self doubt really), and the valveblock came out again for a more in depth investigation, but basically the schraeder valve solution (one on each corner) is really very effective as a temporary measure and so it remained in place ever since,...... right up until last week when at the annual roadworthiness test the guy (contrary to the last two) decided that not having the control system working was a 'fail'. Well I wasn't happy but it probably was time to get back on it! Almost 2 years ago now I had traded in the compressor for a 'professional' recon one and bought Viton o-rings and a new dryer, all of which waited on me getting a 'Roundtuit'. So, a few hours of catch up and the valve block in bits again and all new o-rings, .... dusted off the EASUNLOCK freeware and ...... nothing..... Clearing and interrogating the faults gave very variable results, but two or three times the list came down to just two, one of which was rear left height sensor, which has actually had a broken mount for some time, the other 'vehicle moved', which it hadn't. Took a punt on the RL sensor and Rimmer Bros. sent me one overnight (Ordered Mon. am, arrived Tuesday pm, that is a first in this neck of the woods!). Fitted it this morning and lo and behold it stopped bleeping at me! Almost there...... I had reconnected all the lines with t-pieces in place so that I could, apart from anything else, pre-inflate the system at least to 7.5bar with the little workshop compressor, including the reservoir. This was intended to save the system compressor working too hard initially, and allowed me to include a pessure guage. After a little while it became apparent that the system compressor although turning wasn't contributing anything?? I'll admit to being a bit stumped by that. Took the compressor line off the valve block and connected a spare length of 6mm nylon, ....... output precisely zilch! Now I was pretty sure I hadn't over-stressed it with the precaution of pre-charging the system so I was a bit puzzled. I unplugged it and brought it indoors for a closer look, cut the seals and opened it up (nearly 12 months out of warranty anyway)..... the crank grubscrew had been seated on the round section of the shaft, not the flat!, 10 minutes later we have this....... This pressure switch cut out at just over 120psi; and it feels very good to have the whole thing working properly again after all this time
  22. When you do, ..... if the monster box is amenable....... I'll bid for a big handfull too
  23. I have to say that is a good looking result
  24. Was Mum amused or not? Love the simple hack to get home
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