Blanco
-
Posts
1,476 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Blanco
-
-
Just to confirm for @gfc, AWR5075 is the part number (👍@western) but the catalogue images are confusing. You can see bits of my new AWR 5075 in the bumper off pic above and it actually goes right across the front of the cross member and along the RH chassis rail back to the compressor. It doesn't as the catalogue pic suggests dive in round the front of the rads. HTSH
-
21 minutes ago, CwazyWabbit said:
Seems it was Series 1, apparently the press for the steel bulkheads broke and they handmade aluminium ones as a stop gap.
I seem to think the first few prototypes had aluminium bulkheads as well?
-
1
-
-
Just looking at the belt routing Filip..... doesn't seem to have much of a hold on the power steering pump? upper right, next to what I deduce is the A/C, is that OK like that.
-
+1, particularly like the early bumper look
-
TVC100010, don't know if there is a greasable option
-
Looking at the paper version, it seems only the singleton by the diff is available separately (at least from LR) TVC100010, the DC bit comes with the prop as an assembly and differed originally between V8 and Td5. Now it seems to be the same part number but differs between blind UJ's (TVB000110) or greasable UJ's (TVB000220), ...
Nige won't want to buy a whole prop, so would TVC100010 fit for all three is the question?
-
-
7 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Have you seen the mini with the Tesla motor in it ?
Saw a kit somewhere today for a DIY conversion.
-
Not sure what G4 roof bars are, but have a look at the 'Classic' parts pages, there is quite a bit of detail if you dig here for example
-
Changing the whole turbo was the way I went, it didn't seem worth messing around for the price difference, I don't know how prices are at the moment but with a little care that is very straightforward. Maybe consider new oil feed as well?
-
I had the same trouble with my breaker,.... lack of use and lube. I found a search didn't really help much, found one guy had apparently pushed the right part of the lock between the mechanism and the skin, but his hands must be smaller than mine. I gave up and (as its a breaker) just cut away the rear corner and cut the latch loop away. Hope you find an easier way. Lots of lube to start with, absolutely soak it, and see if you can unstick it. If anyone has one out of the vehicle it might help to understand where you need to get a finger (or something) into the mechanism.
-
I would at least have a look at the brushes, I find that new tools are rarely made as well these days,... and if it is just something simple then it will probably give good service for a few more years, and buy the cordless anyway, can't think how you manage with only one grinder!
-
1
-
1
-
-
Is this the new engine then? You might need posher flip flops
-
Love the 12 stud look, .... an engineering solution rather than a production solution
-
1
-
-
9 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Interesting! Wonder if it’s built on a later LT35 base?
Land Rover Discovery hybrid, c/w FC wheelarches grafted in he said, it's a FB group called Landrover engine conversions, they let anyone in I think (Well they let me in anyway!)
-
Sorry, not my strong point, excerpt here, .........
-
2
-
-
Can't think why THIS isn't more common, unless its something to do with the (V8) elephant in the (living) room
-
13 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
Not sure I'd want to tempt fate by doing the same to any naked phone, rugged or standard ...cue cutting comments about cased rugged phones😉
Just to add that mine wasn't entirely naked either it was wearing a composite rubbery body stocking with faux leather folder, it dropped as I tried to answer it bent over the tailgate with an allen key in one hand and not let go of an M3 nyloc with the other.... failed! The edge of the faux leather did take some of the hit but I reckon the finger print sensor must be pretty fragile.
-
1
-
-
I have had my S96 for about 19/20 months now. One annoying occasional issue is the screen goes blank once a call has started, and I haven't sussed how to wake it up. A proper pain if you need to press menu options once connected. At first I thought it was just internet calls but eventually I decided it didn't matter what sort of call.
And as of last week it doesn't seem that tough either, I dropped it on the drive, (loose stone surface) it landed from about 3ft on a larger stone on the RH edge and burgered the finger print sensor. The sensor comes as part of the screen and frame assembly and is major surgery to fix! Other than that it has been pretty successful, and I'll probably try and get it repaired (depending on how much they want)
There is now an S97, haven't looked closely at the differences yet.
-
Ooh nasty, ... I hope it missed everything vital. I guess overalls are too hot to wear but might have helped.
-
Love the creative approach to bending,! and that is a tough ol' bit of stuff. And a nice job too, results look great. It is nice to have the genuine 1/4 plate,...I get that 6mm seemed like a step down but I am sure it would have been fine in practice. Nice not to have to though.
-
1
-
-
Speaking of seats... check the seat covers on this out, proper period stuff!
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, Arjan said:
ahhh.... the joy of a foreign language..
I reckon you do very well Arjan, ... you don't miss much!
-
2
-
-
If memory serves two flare nut spanner sizes should cover the whole car, 7/16 and 9/16. Automec do nice brass fittings to replace everything that is crusty.
-
1
-
Hydro winch install musings
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
My rear PTO adapter and pump came from First Four Offroad, back in the day ......(sadly no longer possible).... I never got round to hooking up the H14 I have as the X9 did such sterling service. But my pump was 56cc/rev and used to run the crane in 2nd gear at tickover very well, for the 15t log splitter I did use about 1500rpm. I seem to remember that the pump had a relatively modest rpm limit and of course couldn't be run in reverse, an issue you wouldn't have off the front of the engine.
If speed is an issue much larger pumps than the one you currently have are I am sure available with the same interface, but looking at the space you have crank driven seems the way to go.