Blanco
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Posts posted by Blanco
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£15K!, ... he could have had a nearly finished Ibex for that, and that would be saleable
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If you want to check the pressures are really at the right level there's always this.
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Sweet! ...... We used to pay £££'s for pad-eyes to get designed, welded up and NDT'd for lifting stuff offshore but I never saw any that neatly executed.
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It'll be a great achievement when you get sorted, .... just have to bear in mind how many things you didn't get distracted by if you had taken the body off route!😉
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I feel compelled to leap to Michele's defense and point out it is only 10 years, .... and it was an update.
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I picked up the tip for this battery from another forum, but it is so impressive that it should be shared........
Hankook MF31-1000
1000 CCA ! It is the best starting battery ever for a reluctant diesel P38.
Delivered next day while I was in Kent from a well-known on-line battery store.
It is ambidextrous in that it is flat topped with central terminals and so would suit many other Land-Rovers as well.
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Is there a concern that (with the rust damage mentioned), the cast might not survive being dipped? The epoxy route would be safer.
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Well I have needed one, but probably only twice in that period. There is no question that in modern cost conscious management decision terms it can't be justified. However, I continue to carry one, for me it is a self reliance thing particularly on a longer trip, often abroad (here's hoping!).
I probably also take more trouble with tyres these days, both choosing them and replacing worn/damaged tyres, checking pressures etc. but I still think I would feel 'exposed' without one one board.
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On 6/27/2021 at 9:12 AM, Bigj66 said:
I bought my V8 from Mark Skitt in Aberystwyth
Thanks, I looked at that ad but the exchange business put me off,... sourced one from near Dorking which I am going to pick up tomorrow, 127k and no exchange at £500.
I have been running around locally here in Kent with no further coolant loss and have now removed the dipstick and extended the tube with hosepipe up in an arc and down into a catch bottle.
Remarkably it still runs sweetly enough and shows no further/additional signs of distress.
Given the sweet running I am going to try and run it gently home in stages and take the engine with me where I can deal with it properly. To that end I have acquired from a mate a Terex single drum road roller trailer which saves having it in the boot!
Hopefully leave Kent tomorrow, pick it up and get started out West on the way home.
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9 hours ago, Daan said:
I assume you need an engine out of your landy and you have no hoist?
.... that takes me back!... 2nd year of university we got hold of a mates MG midget and rebuilt the engine, borrowed lockup, in nose first. three of us standing around looking at the unbolted lump sitting on the mounts pondering how to lift it. We decided to 'try' the weight of it,.. and to our surprise it was relatively easy, comically we hadn't thought it through (well maybe the other two had!) and there wasn't room for three to manoeuvre out so they gave it to me! They were kind enough to run out the other side and help me put it down though.
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So ...... after 18 months or so finally went further than the local shops!, ..... Tipperary to S.E. Kent, ...... the Range Rover got us here but also spat out 4 litres of engine oil and drank 2 litres of coolant which I reckon is slightly above average? Crankcase pressure it spitting most of it out of the dipstick vent
I knew I had a problem with No.6 , which I thougfht was probably rings but I am forced to doubt the head gasket.
I an here for a couple of weeks and puttting out feelers in the first instance for a known good engine,.... any leads appreciated. 2.5 Diesel 2001 late model auto if it makes any odds.
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I am thinking fuel pressure even though the codes aren't suggesting it, bad fuel or blocked filter even. But while you have all the intake plumbing hauled out then a squirt of easy start? The fuel in the exhaust may just be from repeated starts. Does the fuel guage work? Is the ECU shutting down?
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My first thought was that HfH has competition!!!
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... I hope you made it to Cornwall after all that! Great sense of humour obviously helps (and I hope the Boss has recovered hers!) ... good lesson.
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Looks like a great weekend, .... some great pics there btw, I have often come back from Goodwood or wherever and been disappointed with the days photography efforts, but I'd have been chuffed with that lot 👍
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2 hours ago, SPendrey said:
That's got to be worth sending back, claiming under its guarantee.
I am of the same mind, trouble is the difficulty of no workshop to change them out for the next few weeks. I have emailed the supplier in the meantime.
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I used Big Red on the Classic, and outwardly at least it is an improvement, .... although I have a sinking pedal at the moment that I haven't quite sussed. I have since found TRW kits for the P38 and will order some up as and when, but I am just off to the UK and getting stuff delivered will be sooooo much easier by next weekend.
I actually have a potentially bigger issue which is the low compression on No.6 which I am fairly sure is causing the high crankcase pressure. .... oil is being forced out of the dipstick vent, I am taking extra oil!
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Footnote to this......... just been back under the P38,.... The new Britpart seals are already cracked!!! My fault, but by the time Jeff responded I had ordered a repeat set from DLS, mainly because they really have got the Brexit/EU delivery and prompt dispatch thing properly sorted and I thought if they would do another 3 years I could live with that.
Six weeks later they are toast already,...
Lesson learned!
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
manually operated
Aka H.N.C. (Human Numeric Control)
Looks really good under the circs 👍
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21 hours ago, De Ranged said:
So 5" grinder and a cutting disk
If it works it can't be knocked 😉, I can hear my late Father chuckling '.... crude can be effective you know...'
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Wear tends to be felt at the extremes of turning, where displacement from in-line is most pronounced. Due to the steering geometry the inside wheel always describes a tighter radius than the outside and will therefore 'knock' first.
I guess you could jack the car up, much easier to check on a ramp if you know anyone. Generally knocking while turning doesn't have too many possibilities. Check first the condition of the bellows, if that is toast and the joint has shed its grease then there's your answer.
Also it is quite a heavy job, requiring much force if the disc hasn't been off before or recently. If the disc is toast then beating seven shades out of it is fine, otherwise it can be quite difficult. Get round everything with a wire brush and plenty of PlusGas beforehand.
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Thanks Ed, actually I just need the tail adaptor to the LT230 which would be most readily found on a D2 I think. (unless your box that's here goes in the P38)
As my knowledge of the boxes is really limited to the odd oil and filter change at present I can't say whether there are any differences (early/late or petrol/diesel LR/Jag etc) but I thought if the donor vehicle for the axles was auto then I would have all the picture in front of me and the option to use shifter components, perhaps tunnel sections and so on. A loose tail adaptor would be of interest in the meantime but not to the extent of gearbox on a pallet plus duty plus VAT that it would now entail to send it here. Having said that a cheap gearbox and UK pallet to Kent might be a possibility, I might be able to get it sent to a mate although I haven't seen his new situation yet so I can't say at the moment. I'll bear it in mind if that's OK and perhaps email you when I've seen what's on the ground in Kent?
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.... and just to clarify the gearbox situation, I think the Jaguar and the Land Rover engines are 'clocked' slightly differently, although I plan to keep it simple and use the Jag bellhousing if possible. I am presuming that the transmission side of the BH interface is common to both, although I have yet to place them side by side.
I like the idea of going hydraulic only, but equally the electronic box will probably adapt quite well to my needs and unless any thing otherwise needs attention I will use it 'as is' just to constrain the budget a bit.
the pallet from Ed has a gearbox from a P38 which you are right has an unsuitable tail adapter for this project (hence D2 search as above) but along with it the TC is a possibly lower stall option that I now have and an extra Jag bellhousing that came from Smallfry is a usefull reference up until the time when I have my own x300 in bits.
Just to add that Ed's gearbox has a second potential purpose in life as well, my own daily P38 has a well worn unit which I am coaxing along but should it go west then I have a solution on a pallet.
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Still 'live' but almost no progress due to C19 travel restrictions and the rarity of the 4.0 cars over here in Ireland. There are two for sale at the moment, one non-runner at €800 (which I will go and look at when it gets a bit cheaper) and one rather nice LWB Daimler Six at £2250 in the North, which is more than I want to pay and I worry that it would be so nice I might not want to break it
Elsewhere I have been looking for a donor D2, preferably V8 auto, for the gearbox adapter and also for the axles, again a bit of a rarity but I'll stay on it. The delay means that at least the lean-to should be up and most of the front on the workshop so that I will have more space and shelter to work in.
Mike Brown at Blackbird (discomikey on here) is tweaking some chassis brackets to fit my RRC chassis to enable the complete D2 axles to slot in.
Given those two donors and time I was going to lay out both harnesses and strip out the necessary so that I could use the existing ecu's and controls. If I run into trouble for any reason then obviously there is the option of MS.
Are you using the AJ6 or the AJ16? I was thinking the AJ16. Anyway it will be good if we have two projects on the go.
This mornings project
in International Forum
Posted
Timing!,.... I just let three with chipped/naff enamel go! .... can't believe I missed a trick like that