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PieEater3142

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Posts posted by PieEater3142

  1. Ok so day one of two. The passenger door is on and couldn't have been easier. Check out the pic - I think you'll agree the line on it is quite good and I cant see any daylight through the seal.

    post-16322-0-35569600-1330198268_thumb.jpg post-16322-0-56514700-1330198292_thumb.jpg

    Pretty good huh? Right now for the bit that made me cry, stamp my feet, and swear obscenities in the front garden for 25minutes (poetic license here but you get the idea). The drivers door just won't line up. After lots of investigation I've noticed that whilst there is very little play in the top hinge, there is a 5mm gap - incidentally the size it is off by at the other end. No matter how hard i lift the door I can't get the angle on it to fit properly.

    I've left the hinge in the 110 at the moment but in comparing left and right hand hinges there is deffinately a HUGE gap between the side that bolts onto the bulkhead and the side that bolts onto the door.

    Before I send this back to Craddocks (it's painted but I don't care at this stage. Bought genuine hinges because the last set had this issue as well) is this acceptable differences or have I got a dud hinge?

    Thanks for the advice in fitting by the way, was on and lined up in 45mins (had to play about with the slam a bit).

    Should I try and perceiver with this hinge or send it back and wait on one without an obscene gap between sides?

  2. thanks Zardos, will be making it up next week I think. I have run a big person I'm not that keen on cable down - an overide and off (wading) switch. the diagram is about what i thought - except the extra control wires, was gonna use the x-eng fan diagram i think.

  3. OK guys, silly question - just got my kenlowe fan and an x-eng fan switch. How on earth do I put it all together - electrically that is. I have the kenlowe wiring stuff but can't see how you connect up the x-eng to it - (seems I would need to cut the sensor off or some such?) Do I need to get some new relays etc for it?

  4. Does anyone have any tips for putting doors on? I'm about to attempt it for the second time on my project. Last time i tried i realised the rear tub was not inline with the bulkhead, height wise, string tested and all seems to be on a level now, front bulkhead is loose although windscreen is attached, all front bolts, wings etc are all loose. Is there a trick to this and is it ok to bore out the slots in the bulkhead to get the right angle with the j nuts or is that a big no no?

    Been dragging this out for some time so any advice will be much appreciated, alternatively if anyone is in the Portsmouth area do youfancy coming and giving a hand on Saturday :P really worried about this bit...

  5. OK so I am now getting to the point where I'm looking at seats. I have reclining buckets in my 90 at the moment, but I am trying to figure out what I can put in the 110 project.

    I have been looking at some more reclining seats but they don't all come with subframes and the defender subframes seem really expensive. Does anyone know what subframes are compatible with the defender? I realise I will of course be blocking off the battery - gonna but a side access in I think.

    Anyway, can someone recommend where I can get some subframes that are suitable for attaching to the bottom of some buckets that will work with my 110 project?

  6. Thanks for the link, much appreciated Western. I have custom fitted the loom - so I have two wires coming down for the PDWA (this is where I realise it's gone horribly wrong in the loom). One if from the brake check relay (one that goes on during crank) and the other is the warning light. Do I put both of these onto the same pin and then run the other to earth?

    Ah ABS is amber light - thought it was red. Damn, put the handbrake in already... Thanks for the pin layout required. So do I put 5 ad 7 together and then put the warning light from the sender to 7 as well?

  7. Hey, just wondering how you took the feed out of the water bottle to the two washer pumps? Have just put the same sort of thing in with an eberspacher (see my project for pics) but I need to wire and plump in the wiper bottles this weekend. Also where did you get the check return valve from - just realised that this is going to be a requirement as I am tapping into the existing fuel line.

  8. OK so as I seem to be unable to source a PDWA connector for a reasonable sum (less than a 10er) I thought it would be best to migrate the brake warning light to a brake fluid level sender.

    A couple of questions:

    1) does anyone have the part number for this: the low level sender? I think it looks something like this (forgive the fleebay link) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-e38-e39-e65-Brake-Fluid-Reservoir-Cap-Warn-Switch-/350517436379?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519c779fdb

    2)How the hell do I wire it in? I have two wires at present. The first goes to the warning light - fine, the second comes from a relay in the fuse box (200tdi) wiring, Anyway I have two wires, Question is how do they connect up to the brake fluid level sender rather than a pdwa? Which one goes where?

    3)I have TD5 warning lamps, I wanted to connect the brake fluid level to the ABS warning light - better to have handbrake separate I thought, Question is is this possible. It seems that the ABS has two loops - 3,6,10,9 or some such to bypass something (Wibbily Wobbly Speedo Thread - AMAzing btw) - question is, is it possible to connect the warning light for the pdwa - now brake fluid level sender - to the ABS light?

    Thanks in advance,

    James

  9. I'm a bit further East than the A24, other side of Crawley. There aren't really any fixings other than a washer and a split pin where it goes through the tab on the bonnet. You'd want to make sure that tab was there of course.

    Ok phone version of the site isn't clear, whoops. Anyway, Crawely is fine, slight detour is all.

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