Chrissyg

Once again, thanks Bowie I'll probably get some instant gasket and put a thin layer between each surface just to seal it properly! Just need some circlip pliers and some instant gasket!

First time I've done this, any hints on what sealant to use? I've ordered two new gaskets to go with the new hubs.

Looks like a 38mm to me. I'll get on and order two RUC105200's. Cheers!

That's fantastic mate, thank you very much. They are separate drive flanges, I'll go out and have a measure of them and see what I find.

Hi all, I've discovered that some of the play in the transmission of my 90 is down to worn drive hubs (or whatever the name is, everywhere lists them as something different!) at the end of the half shafts. The half shafts appear to be in really quite good nick, with the hubs having taken most of the damage, so I'm only looking to replace them and see how the play reduces. On to my question, my Landy is a 1988 reg, however it has Range Rover classic (age unknown) axles on it. My question is, which hubs do I want to be fitting? I know it's 24 spline as I popped the dust cap off and had a count. There just seem to be so many that I really am unsure. I've been pointed to either FRC5988 (out of the parts book for a 90) or FTC859. Could anyone shed any light onto this for me please? Finally, I'm a tad skint this month, but I'm still going to try for OEM, anyone know where to get them from? I've seen ONE original going for £114 LRSeries have FTC859, but not the other. Many thanks guys, Chris

16-18 mpg on average with mine. They're rather thirsty, but don't half sound nice!

They do...

I used to drive at a sensible distance from big trucks when my series was my daily drive (probably out of effective range). However, when driving 200 miles each way between home and uni once a month, even a few quid saved makes a difference. I was convinced it made a difference - not loads, but a bit. Probably only a couple of litres over the journey, but as I did the journey relatively often I reckon it made a difference..

I don't suppose you've checked the rear A-frame balljoint have you?

Mine was doing this exactly thing last winter, solved it with a nice new battery.

I agree with the oily drum thing, makes logical sense to me. How would the shock absorbers be a problem? I had the suspension changed at a 2 week interval, with the front done first and they were spot on. But the rears all look fine. How did you fail? edit: And Bill, that sounds perfect, cheers! Chrissy

Cheers Bill! Why would a 2A gearlever be better? Is the part that has gone on my S3 made from a better material in a 2a? I think thats pretty much cleared up my clutch issue *fingers crossed* now to get the bits fitted As with the brakes I am totally stumped, it feels like I'm going over very large cats eyes on a motorway when I brake heavily and gets less exaggerated with less pressure. I don't think it should be a difficult fix but I am p****d off that the garage did manage to bugger them up. I think I'll just check all the U bolt nuts are done up tight enough. Thanks for the help Bill

Yeah my origional complaint was with the clutch. I can't find my last thread either. However I took it to the specialist to have it checked out and see what they said and I was told that it definitely isn't the clutch. The guy I saw jumped straight in and immediately took it for a drive and came back saying he didn't think there was enough pressure in the clutch hydraulics and may just need adjusting and bleeding PROPERLY as the local garage haven't seemed to be doing anything. He also said that a bearing or ball on the gearstick was worn out which is partly why I was having difficulty changing gears? Is this fact or am I being taken for a mug? I couldn't see anything in my Haines about this but I figured one of you guys will know best! Lastly he's just going to strip the brakes down and give them a full check out! Bill- the slave is the right way round, I think I may have to buy another new master as I was told this is the unit that applies the most pressure. The brakes haven't been sitting around, I use the car every day and I took the landy to the garage and they were fine. I got it back the next day and this problem with the brakes occurred. I'll keep this thread updated! Cheers Chrissy

Hi all, I took my car to the local garage (I know the owners, have done me good deals in the past) to have a check over on the clutch and fit my parabolics, after my last thread. Now they've fiddled with it and bled the system the clutch is even worse So I'm going to bite the bullet and just get a new clutch fitted. So my first question is what is the best clutch to be buying as a replacement for a 2.25p SWB SIII and where should I be best buying one from? My next question, as I don't have the experience to fit it myself, I came across two fairly local garages to do it for me. One is "4x4 Repairs" on Jail Lane, Biggin Hill. The other is "Stuart Gilbert Land Rovers" in Kent. Does anyone have experience with either and if so how was the work they did? Lastly, as I drove it away from the garage I dabbed the brakes to check they are alright after it hasn't been used in a few days and noticed a vibration juddering which I hadn't felt before, and wasn't there before the rear paras had been fitted. Its a light vibration in the pedal, no effect on braking however it just doesn't feel right. Could this be a damaged or mishapen brake drum? Cheers for your help Chrissy

Pics for understanding the situation: The axle is just jammed solid. I cant work out why it wont move forward freely.. :S

Its definitely not catching on the mounting point of the leaf. Have double and triple checked that. Not sure what/where the prop sliding joint is? Still quite new to all this. Anyone had this trouble before? The axle isn't catching on anything, it just seems like an invisible wall is stopping it moving

Hi all, I've been taking off my leaf springs today just to give them a once over. Having done that, re fitting the right hand side leaves (to my 1982 series 3 swb) has left the axle around an inch further back than it rests on the passenger side, and wont move forwards at all. It is as if its caught or locked on something and wont move forwards to slot into the original position. It will move up and down but not left to right. I've tried turning the steering but otherwise i'm stumped! Please help guys! Thanks in advance Chrissy

Haha, too true

Thanks for the replies guys. I've gone for some britpart parabolics and pro comp es3000s we'll see how it goes! Cheers, Chrissy

Thanks guys I've just found it isn't the stereo thats draining my battery, its that somewhere in my electrics there is a leak causing the battery to drain when I'm not using it Thanks for all the help though guys. Chrissy

Hi all, The right hand side front leaf springs on my 1982 SIII 88" have just gone so its time to think about replacing them with parabolics and new shocks for better ride comfort. I am unsure if my car is ex military or not, its painted military OD with Sand a few coats underneath but is there any way of telling particularly? Here is a picture: First up the parabolics I was thinking of getting are here and I was going to combine them with some Pro Comp ES3000's from here or here as I don't off road seriously enough to warrant the 9000's (unless it is worth buying them anyway?). Anyway, my main question is what does the selectable box on the explorer comp website with "standard or lifted suspension" mean exactly? As I am unsure about my landy being a genuine military model from my reading this could make a difference when trying to fit the shocks. Any body got any idea whether my landy genuinely is ex mod? Thanks guys, Chrissy

Thanks for the input guys its not a massive stereo, it just seems to drain a lot of juice. What age Mondeo or granada alternator would be the best fit? And how difficult is it to change the charging cable to a fatter one? I'm fairly technically minded but this is my first landy. Worth getting a garage to fit it for me? cheers Chrissy

That would be a great help bud! You think a 55amp alternator would be powerful enough to charge the battery with stereo playing? What other alternatives are there if I want a higher ampage anyway?

Hi all, Sorry, new to this site, I hope I've placed this in the right place, apologies if not. I've got a 2.25 petrol series III and at the moment my alternator isn't powerful enough to power my modern stereo. I was wondering if anyone could point me towards an alternator (and where I could buy it from) that would generate power to charge the battery. Thanks in advance guys n gals. Chrissy