jbs
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Posts posted by jbs
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Kev, If you have the funds available-would it not be cheaper and less hassle to fit another good axle?
John
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Mike, Where did you source the flight cases from?
John
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Lewis, have a look at your breathers too-normally a good indicator of a blocked breather is a leaking hub oil seal
John
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I fitted an oil cooler to my stumpy R380 and there is enough pressure from the oil pump to pump the oil to the front where the rad Is and with the oil cooler on it's end-i.e.: with one of the unions at the top and the other at the bottom, I did read on the australian version of a land rover forum that the oil thermostat opens at 72' C here you go, http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/19347-r380-gear-oil-temperature.html
I'm still going to fit an oil temperature gauge to it as I will do the transfer box,I already have the gauges from rocky mountain spares-and the transfer box oil cooler attachment too
John
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We will remember them
John
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3
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I have an early 110 with a 300tdi engine and r380 which really could do with a new chassis, I have come across a firm that has some unused new old stock tdci 110 chassis fairly cheap , what would the differences be ?
Jason, If the chassis is un-used(i.e.: no chassis numbers) then get the new engine mounts welded onto it and any other mount you may need and cover over with new plates anywhere where mud will trap and get it galvanised whilst you can-it will save you loads of work later on in life as It's a really good time to do it whilst it's bare if you wish to keep the vehicle long term that is?
John
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So with all the above negativity about chassis and vins being sold together could I ask your advice?
I bought a rotton G plate 110 hardtop earlier this year as well as a used td5 chassis in unbelievable condition.
The chassis was from a reputable breaker, sold with a receipt. The ad clearly stated that the chassis had no numbers and was being sold as a replacement or upgrade.
I stripped the 110, keeping only the axles, id and roof strangely with a view to building up the 110 on the new chassis.
My circumstances have changed and now I'm selling up but I'm worried how to sell as it might come across as dodgy although the 110 is sorned in my name.
Would the best bet be to scrap the 110 via the DVLA and sell the chassis with no id or hope to find someone with ideas to build one?
It's a bit hit and miss what people accept as genuine.
CT, as much as I don't disbelieve what you're saying, If the chassis was used then surely it'd have some sort of chassis numbers on it somewhere(front dumbirons the usual place) unless it was a replacement from say Richards chassis or similar and the previous owner hadn't bothered to stamp the chassis number into it,
John
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Surely If the chassis was "Used" then it'd have chassis numbers on it-on the front dumb iron?
John
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And back
Also this which is even more blatant:
That VIN plate on the 110's advert is brand new and has been stamped using ordinary metal stamps-not the way it came from the factory-i.e: stamped from the reverse, I know you can get new VIN plates from certain suppliers on either e-bay or elsewhere but thats either someone who's knocked it up themselves or is as dodgy as the day is long-It's not even got any drill holes in the plate at top and bottom too.
I'd steer well clear unless the person selling can identify themselves as the actual owner or has some sort of photographic ID-e.g: a passport/ drivers licence, If I was looking to buy another chassis.
John
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It's been deleted rather than ended early though John, can the seller do that?
Hi Barry, I'm not sure to be honest, Surely if it's your advert then I would've thought so because what if you had it advertised in other places?
John
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Or perhaps the person the advert is from was watching on this forum?
John
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Martin, Did you get a quote for the rebuild/servicing of your new to you pump?
John
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I run a "fume curtain' in my hardtop 90 and it's made a real difference too, I use a 300tdi defender heater box and with the fume curtain hanging from the dog guard it seals off the cab area from the rear load area-It's warm to the point sometimes that I have to turn the heater off and open the window slightly
John
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You'll need one from the chassis to engine block, and one from there to the stud on the rear of the starter motor too, and If you want to rip the box out of it like I did-one directly from your battery earth to the rear of the starter motor stud too
John
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Try this one, i know it's not a 2nd hand one but at least you'll get what you want from them:
hth
John
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Fridge, Sorry.
John
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Fridge, what about a LWB transit or equivalent and do it out yourself using a set of caravan internals as some people do on the self build motor camper club site www.sbmcc.co.uk , you'll find allsorts on that and I intend once I've finished with my transit to do exactly that and have myself a cheap enough camper to my specs
HTH
John
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Neil, If you are intending getting your vehicle MOT'd then a council depot with MOT facilities(They need to be able to MOT they're own vehicles-ambulance, minibuses etc.) is probably your best bet-the reason I say this because that they're not there to trade up-just pass or fail the vehicle, Have a look on line at one nearest the port of entry and book it in that way, I put my new to me transit through that way and with a few advisories it passed the MOT.
John
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I know when Ray Mears had his 110 CSW he had what you've been talking about and they were colour coded to the vehicle too, Thinking about it Richard what about making your vehicle into a utility version using 88" side panels for a hard top?
John
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I have considered it, in fact I have a Disco arm sat in the garage for this eventuality, however a number of things have stopped me from fitting it:
1. I have a 6-bolt Gemmer PAS box, every reference I've found to the Disco conversion has been on a 4-bolt box - so I'm not sure it would fit as the drop arm for my box type is different to that from others.
2. It means getting the arm off the box - no mean feat in itself!
3. My usage is generally fairly light duty and so I would expect the ball joint to last a long time.
If I had a 4-bolt box and so could be sure it would fit then I would probably do it. As it is I really don't want to be stuck without a vehicle because the new arm won't go on and I've cut the old one off!
Has anyone looked at doing this with a 6 bolt box?
John
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Oh dear me-what a pile of scrap
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Will, Whats your thought on the disco drop arm conversion compared to the standard drop arm ball joint?
John
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Martin,
Why don't you send or take the pump you're buying from e-bay and get it refurbished/serviced by a diesel specialist locally to you then it'll be back to near brand new and fit that and the one that you have to take off that's on your 90 will be able to be refurbished and be a spare for your 90?
John
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Seriously guy's, have you not considered the disco drop arm replacement as it takes 15 minutes to change a TRE over compared to buggering about with a drop arm ball joint for X amount of hours , It's saved me countless frustrations over the years
John
Push buttton starter 200tdi
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
And don't ask in capitals as it will be deemed as A, your shouting and B, you're demanding someone answer you, Please have patience someone will answer you when they see your question-If they have an answer for you, perhaps you should follow a wiring diagram there are plenty available on line or look in the tech archive and go from there.
John