Tiger

Right, well, I got it undone!!! Had to take the starter out and locked the wheel with a bolt in a hole. It took a 6ft scaffold pole over the breaker bar and 15 stone of pure muscle to get it undone.!! Downside is I smashed the pulley, undid the bolts took a pry bar to it and it shattered. Poxy cast carp so now will have to find a new pulley. Also had to take exhaust manifold off to get to starter so thinking now may aswell do the head gasket while its half stripped. All good fun!! If anybody has a spare pulley I need one!!

I'm not keeping it(her really), as soon as it's (she's) MOT'd I'm giving her (Doris the 110) to my Father in Law. She'll be in deepest darkest Wales and I'll have weekend visiting rights though.

Nah earth strap is still there, I'm not sure it was earthling, I think it just struck one of the curved lugs on the PAS box and made a spark in a Ray Mears style. The starter wasn't that’s gutsy but that was because this is 1000th time I've tried this so the battery was suffering a bit (I really can't be bothered taking the starter out, its just plain awkward on the 12J). Once I put my other 110 ten on with jumpers it had plenty of juice. Now this may sound daft but taking the sump off maybe my next option, gives me a chance to put a new gasket on and cure a leak. Never taken a sump off before any reason why I shouldn't do it? Cheers for all the input Matt Just as a side note, I got given this 110 2 years ago, so far I've Done New Master cylinder New Slave New rear Wheel bearings and Oil seals New rear shoes New discs & pads Full service New PAS box New PAS pump (& pipes to fit - a saga in itself) New Rocker cover (my fault - I put a new gasket on and over tighten the middle bolt - it shattered) New Glow plugs Welded in New Footwells Welded Front Chassis Leg Welded Front O/S Outrigger New Gear Knobs Vanity New Gear Gaiter Vanity Replaced Front Brake Pipes New Wheels and tyres (tubeless off my 300TDi) New Battery To do Timing Belt Polybushes (don't think I'll bother though, even though I've bought these and all associated new bolts) New Steering Damper New Gearbox Oil New Rear Diff Oil New Front Diff Oil New Fuel & Oil Filter New Engine Oil Fit New Radiator Fit Electric Fan & Thermostatic Controller (I have a cunning plan for this) MOT Give to Father in Law and get rid of the big blue pile scrap off my driveway Sell spare 2.5NAD crated up engine that I bought on a whim. Sell spare new tyres Sell all the other Land Rover carp that just accumulates such as Military light lenses, old 3 bolt box, old pump, set of Recon injectors that I'll never fit 'cos the ones in are fine. Sell other 110, Sell TVR - Done , Sell Boat, buy a Nissan Micra and get to know my Wife and Daughter

JST > How do I drive forward with a breaker bar on the bolt? Surely I won't be able to start it? Do I stick it in 1st and tow it? Lars L > How do I get a ring spanner onto the bolt when its inside the pulley? Anyway as promosed a video. Sorry about the gratuitous arse shot, now the battery was a bit lethargic 1st time, not 1st time I did this just the 1st time I filmed it, i've been trying this lots now and I’ve drained the battery down a bit so got my 300TDi and wired them up just to make sure. Link here http://www.simpledev.co.uk/pdq/verytightnut.wmv

It has failed, I'll film it for everybody tonight :-)

Yep, tried that, can't see where I'd get a wind gun unless anybody is near me with one and fancies giving me a hand. Will go purchase a blow torch and try some heat

Following Les' guide to timing belt replacement on a 12J and I cannot get the crank bolt to move. Tried the breaker bar under the rails technoque to no avail. (several times) Tried putting it in diff lock, low box & 1st with hand brake on but can't get it wound up enough to make it work. I know the next step is starter out but I'm slightly worried that if its so tight then this may damage the the starter cogs. Anybody got any bright ideas? Best Matt

I want a couple of bits for my LR and wondered who everybody uses. I only need 2 packs of 1 shot swivel and some drive flange gaskets so not so keen on Paddocks mimimum £5 delvery charge. Anybody any ideas for a supplier with reasonable postage costs? Matt PS Maybe an LRO defecter but joined here in sept 06 so why am I a new face

Pretty straight forward. 4 bolts through the chassis, 2 bolts directly underneath it. Does you new one have the drop arm on it? If not and you don't have a hydrollic puller type thingy these are a bugger to swap and you may need to be creative with a big hammer

Standard 110 300TDi with EGR My SatNav has a trip function and I've had 90 recorded on it but the engine sits best at 60, it will do 70 all day long, will run at 80ish but tends to be quite noisey and let you know its nots a brilliant idea. 90 with a bit of a run up and a good following wind and only as short burst.

Tried to get that but have been told that its been superseeded, I could have just been fobbed off however

right I think I've found the bit I need to make my pipe fit. Looks like a little adapter that allows a normal metric union fit to the banjo. See image, where do I get this from without buying a new pump????

Right further to my last post I'm really struggling with a PAS pipe. This is my own fault as I've mixed bits up. I need a pressure return power steering pipe to connect my pump (etc9077) to a 4 bolt box. I now have a 2 pipes and niether fit. Does a pipe even exist that will work with this did a 4 bolt adwest box ever connect to a PAS pump with a banjo fitting? Help as this is driving mental and I've just been quote £150 to have a pipe made. Techniacl Details bit Box is 4 bolt adwest with metric fittings Pump is a ETC9077 with 5/8" Bajo fitting Pipe one fits Bajo end but not box (part numbers NTC6731) Pipe two is orginal and fits pump but is imperial (orginally went into a 3 bolt adwest box) One slution maybe to use the old pipe can you get imperial to metric union adpaters? Help!

Not a direct answer this but I looked at changing the engine on my old 110 2.5D for a 300 TDi. I looked around for an engine and these seem to go for about £800-£1000. Then you need an R380 gearbox budget £250?. Now I was going to do this myself so labour not a issue but if you are putting a new engine in makes sense to strip and check while its out (new timing belt etc) So add another couple of hundred for bits and unexpexteds like new engine mounts sheared off bolts and the like and then daft extras like getting a metric PAS pipe made thats metric for the 300Tdi pump and imperial for the old steering box. So to swap an engine you gonna be looking at the best part of £1500 to £2k and headaches Solution! Sell your old 110 £1500 - £2000 ish Put ya money on top for the engine Go and buy another car with a 300TDi from the factory and get rear discs less rust newer propshafts etc. Don't do what I did!! I still have the old 110 and now a 98R 110 Hmmmmm.

Anybody know of a good stockist of parts (not a main stealer) near Heathrow / West london area? Is Keith Gott my nearest?

Don't know if this will help at all but you can get a 300TDI and a 2002 TD5 on wiring diagram from this site. 2+2 = 5 and all that.. http://www.indigoprime.com/landrover/

Nope its metal alright and connects 3 different hoses. I pressume a one piece hose was later but I need the metal bit.

Brilliant! Thanks, now I just need to find one cheap somewhere (any ideas on that?) or go to the main stealer

On my 110 (2.5 NAD) there in the cooling system is a metal 'T' junction piece that connects the bottom hose to the engine and the header tank. Anybody know what this part is called? Or even better have a part number? Matt

Right, was being a bit dumb not mentioning which engine, its a 2.5NAD in a 1984 110. I also put a New(er / ish) pump on yesterday and this was off a 200TDI I swapped the mounting brackets and it was a straight swap. One pipe was a push fit and jubilee (I pressume supply to pump) and the other was a collar type fitting (I pressume pressure return / supply to box) So if the pump was off a 200TDI and the pump end of the pipe fit could I use pipes and resevoir off a 200TDI, instead of the costly route of geeting some made up? What point did 4 bolts start to be used, would a 2.5TD have a 4 bolt?

Whats my 110 worththen? My daily driver is an ex SEEB 110 Van, shes a 98R 110 300TDI Van (very last of the 300TDIs) done 80,000 with a very full main dealer service history, very clean, very tidy no rust, has XS Alloys and I've had rear windoes installed to eliminate the blind spots. Pointless post really as I'm not going to sell her just wondered what people thought?

Right took my old 110 to bits today and have a few niggles. I've replaced the old 3 bolt PAS box shiney new 4 Bolt PAS box only problem is that the 3 Bolt was imperial and the 4 bolt is metric so the unions on the pipes don't fit. Anybody got any idea where I can get these from? I need a PAS resevoir to box and a PAS pump to box return pipe. Will other stuff like Disco parts fit? Took the radiator out to do the work (made it 100 times easier but also made me think putting the old Rad back is folly and I should replace the viscous fan with an electic model. Now I'm not going to spend £100s on a Kenlowe affair so am thinking pulling one out of an old Pug 405 or the like, anybody done this where do you put an otter to make it kick in etc? While this is all out I may as well pop a new timing belt on, I can see all the bolts and no rad and no fan makes this seem like a no brainer. I've ordered a belt (just a belt do I need a kit?) and wonder should I be doing this? I can do most stuff just this bothers me a little. Ta all