hobson

There are some good photos on there, though really, filming in Tunisia, in the mid to late 1970's, i can't think of any other vehicle better suited!

Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou. It is done, and the steering is (compared to how it was) like that of a Bentley! no shake, no wobble, nothing. just nice smooth effortless steering from lock to lock. So a huge thanks to everyone who helped. And for anyone else, here's the topic i found to centre the steering: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65181&st=0&p=566586&hl=+steering%20+box%20+centre&fromsearch=1entry566586

Are the guards which sit at the back of the brake disc really necessary? i've just broken a tab off the top of mine tightening the swivel adjusting bolts so had to take it, and then both off. they don't look like an essential part, though good for trapping small stones i'd imagine, do they need refitting or can i leave them off?

I found the topic on steering box centralisation, it was on the discovery forum, very useful, i did wonder what the forks on the back of the drop arm were for.... seems to be going well now, should be driveable after lunch!

Do you by any chance have a link to it? tried the search and no luck, also gone back page by page (for the last ten anyway!) but nothing came up for steering box centralisation or similar... is it under another title?

I'll check that measurement tomorrow, but what if there's no adjustment left on the steering rod? is it possible to adjust the steering box? it looks like the drop arm needs to turn further to the passenger side, but both ends of the rod are screwed in as far as they go... Ignore that, this is annoying me now! just been outside and adjusted the rod to 924mm, one and a half turns from centre to each lock, but on the right hand lock (clockwise) the steering stop is hitting the stop and then pushing the onto the axle and moving the suspension, only an inch or so, but should it be doing that?

Just had a last look underneath whilst tidying for the night and it does adjust on the other (steering damper) end but thats all the way in too. it's like the rod is too long? think it'd be a bad idea to cut an inch off the end? it seems strange it has no room for adjustment? Oh, and the steering rod is an aftermarket heavy duty job, already fitted when i got the vehicle...

Cheers Ralph, I've had a play about with the crossrod, it was originally wound all the way in on the balljoint side, so i put it back the same way, and lengthening it seems to make the right hand lock twist the suspension more, it seems to need shortning another inch but i can't see how if it's already screwed in. will it shorten on the other end? and out of curiosity, why has it moved? new unworn parts perhaps?

Having just had two not-so-fun days under the 110 replacing: track rod ends drop arm and balljoint crossrod track rod end steering damper panhard rod bushes adjusting the swivel preload i've got everything back together and it's kind of working, but i have a problem, the steering wheel isn't where it was, or the wheels aren't central when the steering wheel is, the steering wheel is out about quarter of a turn. it's turning fine, and is one and a half turns to lock on each side, but when i lock it over to the right, it seems to go a touch further and is making the suspension/steering twist/move a bit, whereas the left hand lock doesn't seem to go as far. i've checked the steering stops and they're both bang on 20mm, it seems like the drop arm needs to turn one spline over, but it'll only go on at certain points. i measured the track rod ends with a vernier calliper and got them as close as possible to original too. What else can i do? i'd really like to get it back working tonight....

Dammit, just been and checked the farm socket sets, biggest we have is 46mm and 1 3/4" i'll get one ordered. thanks a lot Ralph

Well it seems the Landrover gods aren't happy with me, after a good inspection i found the gaiters on the track rod ends and the steering rod end were split, not all the way but enough for water to get in, so have ordered some new track rod ends, a new steering rod end (same as a track rod end interestingly!) a new drop arm balljoint and to top it all a new steering damper. I'm intent on giving it a damn good jetwash the day before work commences as the back of the hubs and calliper were pretty muddy, so last thing i want is bits in the swivels, then i can leave it in the barn overnight ready for an early start the next day! at least it should all be like new when it's done, and thanks a lot for the hub tip, i'll definitely check that. Incidentally, is the hub spanner a special fitting or is it just a really big socket?

That'd be great, can't do any harm to have too much input, and if it doesn't help me it might help someone else. I've had to put doing mine off until saturday as i'm too busy and my wife needed the car, but it'll only be around town at low speeds so should be ok. I'm going to adjust the swivel preload and replace the panhard bushes first then see how that goes, i'll keep a log of which bits change what and post the results as i go.

Thankyou gents, i'll give it a go tomorrow, got some nice new bushes for the panhard rod on the way too, hopefully i'll have nice safe steering soon then! I had a good look at the tyres when they were balanced, the chap was quite good, he let me have a feel of them to see how out they were, nowhere near dangerous but i'll be replacing them with something of far better quality in future, unfotunately there's quite a lot left on them so it's going to be hard to convince SWMBO to let me buy more anytime soon!

Thankyou, so i can just remove the shims as needed and test the resistance using a spring scale to get the right weight? And is there anything else to be careful of?

Thanks Ralph, but i'm confused now, i've done some reading on the net and seen that i need some fishing scales to measure the resistance or something? is there a step by step guide just for the pin adjustment?

I definitely agree with that! he is a goldmine of info! i'm going to do the panhard rod bushes and swivel preload first, then see how it is before i buy more stuff, is there a guide anywhere for doing the swivel preload? i did a search on the tech archive but nothing came up... might have a go at the drop arm balljoint too while i'm under there, there's a good guide on that, though from the guide i might regret it!

I had the wheels balanced and tyres checked about a month ago, chap said the tyres weren't balanced perfectly as they're cheapy ones and not perfectly moulded, but they're still fine and balanced. and i gave it a good jetwash to get rid of the winter salt around the same time, so no mud. it feels like somethings loose/worn, it's had a small judder for ages, but only at 55, accelerate and it stopped, slow down and it stopped, but then it wasn't as bad as it is now, it's doing it quite severely at anything above about 40. missus says she hasn't hit anything either, though the look she gave me when i asked her suggested she was close to hitting me!

Having just done a brief (and rare) motorway run, it's come to my attention that we have a pretty bad steering wobble on the 110, my wife who generally uses the car these days, told me "oh yeah, its been doing that for a couple of weeks, i meant to mention it, it used to only do it at 55, but it's doing it at 40 as well now, ooh, and sometimes slower!" obviousley this is a big worry so i'm ordering some parts tonight, and not using the car until it's done, my first thought was steering damper, as it mainly wobbles in a straight line, the vehicle itself doesn't wobble, it's coming through the steering, but my thinking is; if it's been wobbling a couple of weeks, what other bits has it probably affected? i'd rather do the lot in one go, and although i know i can't replace evrything, i can at least do the main bits which are likely the cause, and i know this isn't a rare problem on defenders. So, can everyone advise of which bits to get please?

Oh dear, it always seems it's in the spring and summer when the anti-4x4 brigade come out in force, never seems to happen in winter when the weather's bad and 4x4s are actually very useful! I'd also like to say that while i do think electric cars are a good idea as a concept, remember where the electricity comes from to power them! Boris Johnson on Top Gear when asked where the electricity comes from: "the plug" -which unless we've swapped to Dilithium Crystals means either coal fired or nuclear power stations! both high polluters! Regarding the stickers though, is someone who's got 90 grand for a new Range Rover really going to care? they'll just get their chauffeur / valet parker / PA etc to clean it off! and i don't imagine the police will be very happy about the changing of plates either, though i'm pretty sure the newer cameras can read your tax disc too... It's all a bit silly really!

Thinking of painting the 110 satin black when the weather improves as it's looking a bit tatty, but am aware that this will make it less visible, especially because there are hardly any street lights where i live! Was thinking of adding a couple of extra reflectors or even some reflective vinyl around the vehicle, does anyone know what i can add and where i can put it?

If you're putting a lot of stress on them and putting them through the wonderfully thick, strong aluminium that landrover use for body panels, it might be worth getting some slightly longer rivets and using a washer at the back to spread the load. thats assuming you can get to the back of the rivet to put the washer on of course....

I'm liking that! i keep putting off getting one due to being too busy to fit it! i like the idea of moving the hazard switch too, i keep knocking mine on when i get in and out! how did you move it? was it just a case of pulling it through or did the wires need extending?

Thats fantastic, thanks gents, do you have the part number for the bulkhead seal and any other bits that'll more than likely need replacing? It's sods law/landrover law that if i don't get them i'll need them! and not only is my nearest dealer miles away, but they never seem to have any Defender bits in! Oh, and it's a 300tdi Defender 110, so i can't see there being too much of a difference....

Does anyone have a guide for removing the heater matrix so i can check it and give it a flush? and do i need any seals/parts to put it back in?

Thanks for that, so whats the best procedure to bleed the system? including the heater matrix?